Relay Terminals left to right 1,2,3,4.
Term 1 black to breaker. Term 3 red to breaker.

Term 2 black is from conduit of main pump. Term 4 red is from conduit of main pump.

Term 2 white and term 4 yellow go to large transformer.

TinFoilHat said:

Use a measuring cup. One that has cups/pints and ounces on it - no glass. One gallon is 128 oz. Safety glasses if you're paranoid. Gloves are not needed. If a drop gets on you then dunk in the pool.

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Thanks

James L. said:

The relay has 4 terminals and six wires connecting to it. Terminals left to right I'll call 1,2,3,4.
The main pump wires (red and black) from the main pump conduit connect to the relay (black to term.1; red to term.3). A different black goes from term 2; and a different red goes from term4 to the breaker that trips.
White wire connected to term 2, and yellow wire that connects to term 4 go to large transformer.
Are the white and yellow wires the SWG wires?
The SWG has a 4 wire bundle that goes to a connector to the salt board.

I sent this post before reading your last post.

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Terminals 1&3 should have power from the breaker, 2&4 to the equipment. That is the "standard" way. The way yours is works, but can get confusing to a service person trying to help.
White and yellow should be the SWG. Where are they connected?

Put the cya in a human sock and hang in front of a return.

Don’t put it in yet, post a full set of results first…FC CC pH TA CH

Just wanted to follow up!

Thanks for the input. I'll keep an eye on it

Just an update, but I ended up ordering the Active 60 from Marina. With the small discount on the Active 60 vs the M600 right now and not needing the caddy, the 3 year warranty of the active 60 places it at about the same cost per year of the active 30 with its 2-year warranty. I'll have it in only 2 days also.

I see this is old, but I do the procedure and it shows the ppm as 3600. I try to adjust with arrows but the arrows do nothing. Follow procedure to the letter and got all the beeps and expected readout of the 3600 ppm.

I was in auto mode doing so since that failed i tried manual mode with same result.

Note: I did it about 5 years back so i know it works because i had to adjust it +300 when my salt was reading 2500 and i was getting general faults on awuapure avg time. Fast forward today and it reads 3600 wilch is actually 3300 if i had changed it prior.

"Now, put the wires back as they were and disconnect the wires on terminals 2 and 4 of the relay that the breaker feeds." Terminals 1,2,3,4 left to right?

I concur with Jim's idea that 4 bad relays is unlikely, so if your drivers are socketed correctly and your aux relays still don't work then the chips pointed to by the yellow arrows could be bad... in which case you'll want a new board (feel free to pm me, I probably have some)

after you check the orientation of the driver chips, perform Allen's check for 24v... the relays won't engage without it. if you don't have 24v your system transformer is likely bad but again, feel free to pm me

Just a sump in a bucket. 1/4 inch holes in the caps. Pipe on deck with shot bag to hold in place.

if they're in backwards you're in good company, I've seen a bunch of boards where both chips were backwards, and a couple with just one was backwards (which somehow seems harder to screw up).

they should look like this... notice the notch is on the right side. (ignore my yellow arrows - those point to the chips that control the relay drivers... pic is from a different post)

If you have DIP switch 2 off (default) for Solar Heat, and you have a temperature sensor connected to the solar sensor terminals then you should have a Solar Heat function show up that you can enable and disable. When Solar heat is used it is hard coded to VSP speed 7. As Allen said, show us your VSP speed table. What does speed 7 say, it should be named Solar heat unless you have changed it, regardless the pump will go to speed step 7 if, 1- you have a temp sensor across the solar terminals, 2 - you have solar heat enabled, 3 - the pool is calling for heat, 4 - the solar temp sensor is at least 5 degrees above the pool temp, and lastly 5 - if speed step 7 is set to a faster speed then your regular 2000 rpm.

With the aqualink system the fastest active speed always takes presidency. If speed step 7 is set to less than 2000 rpm then nothing will happen when the solar activates as you are already going faster than speed step 7.

Please show us the VSP speed setting screen as Allen displayed so that we can figure out what is going on. For example here is that screen from my system.

Here you can see that speed 7 is setup for Solar Heat (the default name) and it's set to be faster than the default pool speed of 2100 RPM.

JamesW said:

Basic AquaRite Diagnostics
This is the basic information we need to know in diagnosing a problem:

Report all diagnostic readings when you..
Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?

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Hello, below are the results. For the actual salt reading, my salt kit has not yet arrived so I went to 3 different stores and averaged it. They were all between 2500-2900. I know this isn't the preferred way but no choice at this point. Also, the cell was not generating at time of the test as the salt was below 2300 according to the panel

Thank you in advance for your help. As a reminder, I have the Hayward T9. I did the bucket test with the cell and saw a lot of bubbles/chlorine.
First 7 digits of serial # are 3E18289. I bought it 2019

flip switch from auto to off
2000
87
32.5
0
71p
0
al0
1.55
T9
measured salt 2700

from off to auto
2000
87
26
2.83
71p
-1800
al0
1.55
t9
measured salt 2700

off for a minute and back to auto
2000
87
32.4
3.41
72p
-2300
al0
1.55
t9
measured salt 2700

Use eye protection. If you get acid on hour hand, just dunk it.

The relay has 4 terminals and six wires connecting to it. Terminals left to right I'll call 1,2,3,4.
The main pump wires (red and black) from the main pump conduit connect to the relay (black to term.1; red to term.3). A different black goes from term 2; and a different red goes from term4 to the breaker that trips.
White wire connected to term 2, and yellow wire that connects to term 4 go to large transformer.
Are the white and yellow wires the SWG wires?
The SWG has a 4 wire bundle that goes to a connector to the salt board.

I sent this post before reading your last post.

You have a Sta-Rite (owned by Pentair) Waterford sand filter.

watkinsirish1 said:

My hubby replaced the sand in our pool. He can't get water to stop leaking around the clamp area of the MPV. It is a pentair valve 261886. I called the co. For help but they couldn't find the valve on their website even though I was able to bring it up. Anyway, hubby doesn't remember where the Oring was located on the valve as it connects to the filter. Can anyone help before he blows up my pool?

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If you asked for a valve with that number they can't find it. Your valve number is 261186. The O ring fits onto the bottom of the valve and may need to be replaced. It should be a U9-369 (Sta-Rite number) or generic.

FC is too low and CC of 1 might mean algae. You can add some liquid chlorine to get your FC up to about 6 ppm and then run an OCLT starting after sunset. Run the pump overnight without a SWG running and then test the FC again before sunrise to see if the FC number has changed. If you lose FC overnight then you have algae and you need to SLAM. Also, add the deets of your pool and equipment to your signature.
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
SLAM Process
FC/CYA Levels

K2005 Test Results:
Ph 7.4
TC 3
FC 2
CC 1
Hardness 150
TA 80
CYA 40
Added 3" tablet to chlorinator

Use a measuring cup. One that has cups/pints and ounces on it - no glass. One gallon is 128 oz. Safety glasses if you're paranoid. Gloves are not needed. If a drop gets on you then dunk in the pool.

David,

I find it odd that replacing the relay driver chips did not fix the problem..

Not trying to be insulting, just making sure.. Those chips can be easily put in backwards.. Are you sure they are installed correctly???

I really doubt that you have three or four bad relays..

Let's see if Tom can show us the correct installation... Calling @ogdento

I no longer have any of my EasyTouch stuff, so if you can show us a good pic of the two chips on the card..

Thanks,

Jim R.

Regarding muriatic acid. How do you all measure it? I don’t want to get any of that anywhere near me. I use very tall thick rubber gloves but I have been just eye balling it on feel off of what a gallon feels like. Any advice?

Pas_pool said:

Gotcha. Thanks. Just trying to gauge what RPMs are right for my heat pump.

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Try 2400

James L. said:

I removed the wires (one black and one red) from the tripping pump breaker (second breaker from top; the first double pole breaker from top) and connected them to the next breaker below (same amps, also double pole GFCI; removed the wires that were going to it originally). Breaker tripped as soon as I threw them all on.

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Now you know that it probably isn't the breaker. Now, put the wires back as they were and disconnect the wires on terminals 2 and 4 of the relay that the breaker feeds. Try the relay. Likely won't trip, but maybe. Then take one pair of wires from one conduit and attach to the relay and try again. Does it trip the breaker? That piece of equipment is bad or the wires burned. If not, remove those and try the other pair. What happens? If it trips, that piece of equipment or its wiring is the issue. You have to follow the conduit to determine to what equipment those wires are connected, especially if all the wires are the same color (as some builders will do).

A picture of the panel wiring would be a great help. There is nothing that is completely standard in the way builders/installers wire the equipment so a picture is better.

ajw22 said:

RPMs needed to deliver a GPM vary based on how dirty your filter is and what other restrictions there are in your plumbing. It is not a set speed.

Pumps are usually choked down using GPM and you will get more flow at the high end using RPM.

Click to expand...

Gotcha. Thanks. Just trying to gauge what RPMs are right for my heat pump.