Pool Heater Suggestion in North Texas

Go,

Things to keep in mind...

If you try to heat a pool on a continually basis it will be costly..

To maintain the heat you will need a cover, or it will be more than costly

Even if the water is 82, often the air is not... :mrgreen:

I thought about installing a heater myself, but it just did not make a lot of sense for me... I would guess that 99% of people that have heaters, also have spas..

Let's see what our other DFW members have to say..

Thanks,

Jim R.

Trying to Get Rid of the Pool Cleaning Blues with Robotic Cleaner

Get the TF-pro, no salt. In March every year, TFTESTkits.net has a sale, you can do a simple update to reagents and add the salt test. Keep your kit in cool dry location to extend its life. Reagents are guaranteed a year.

Likely 22,000 gallons. Start there and we can adjust based on chemical additions and test results.
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IC-20 low salt reading Despite fine levels

Dan,

The cell tests salt at start up and then every 12 hours.. It does not constantly check the salt level.. Cold water can make a difference..

That said, the cell's tolerance is +/- 600 ppm, so the reported salt can be pretty far off from the actual salt level in the pool..

If this difference gets above about 1000 ppm, then most likely the thermistor inside the flow switch is bad.. Replacing the flow switch is a DIY job..

If the cell is still under warranty, just have Pentair do it..

Thanks,

Jim R.
So I suppose that maybe if system was started before salt was added, then there’s a chance it hasn’t updated with the added salt?

I will give it a check in the morning and hope it’s back on.

Isn’t there an attachment I can buy that is size of SWG that will allow me to run pool when cell not attached? My concern is if I do have to have it fixed, I will not be able to run the pump.

IC-20 low salt reading Despite fine levels

I would unscrew it and take a peek. Usually the order of cleaning ranked from least impactful to most impactful is:
1. Spray it with a water hose to see if you can knock off any flakes
2. Use something non-metalic (like a popsicle stick) to knowck off any crusty
3. Use diluted vinegar solution to clean it
4. Use a diluted MA solution to clean it

Take a peek and post back. Note that your cell is very undersized for your pool, but should last more than 2 years.
I have a nozzle that turns hose into a power washer of shorts. Not as hard obviously, but what I use to clean filter. Would this be too hard to use to try and knock any build up off?

SWG in my future?

Taylor salt test kit, K-1766
or this...Link--> TF Salt Bundle

If you don't have automation, and don't think you will automate in the future, same brand doesn't matter.
I'd look at the Circupool RJ-45. Puts out the same as the IC-60, and is $1000 less.

Fiberglass Pool Chemistry

I’m just confused why TFP and others recommend such a high level of calcium if it’s a known issue.
There's two things about that comment we should address. First, there's an assumption being made that Orenda and River Pools have confirmed (scientifically) that calcium is the reason for chalkiness. I'm not claiming to know it all, but I've not heard of that, and it doesn't make sense really since "some" calcium in the water can serve to buffer the pool from certain products, like metals for example. The second thing is that TFP doesn't necessarily want you to have an elevated CH level unless it's warranted for plaster or equipment. Our levels start at about 250 and go up from there to a maximum allowable number. It's a very wide range designed to not only accommodate pool owners across the country and their various equipment, but are still ranges that are very manageable to the average homeowner.

So if your CH was say 200 and you had no heater CH requirement or tile waterline, you would be fine. By the same token if you had extremely hard water like in AZ with a CH of 800 or more, your water is still very manageable. The chalkiness appears in gelcoats across the country and in our TFP survey, there is no indication that the chalkiness is related to an elevated CH at all. In fact, as the case in my story, I tried managing the pool with a CH below 100 and the chalkiness continued.

As I said earlier, aside from someone who really let their chemical levels get WAY out of whack leading to accelerated oxidation (high pH and high FC), many gelcoats seem more prone to chalkiness simply from the effects of chlorine. Just an unfortunate chemical reaction.
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Help adding Circupool SWG in tight place

Thank you all for the help! My only concern about backing out the return line more is that it’s a bit close to the ground, although I suppose I could dig a bit to give a little more clearance.

Do you think this would be preferable to using some 45 turns to push out the pipe above by 6” or so?

Also re a vertical installation, any concerns with a variable speed pump, or no problems typically? I remember reading somewhere that for variable speed pumps with horizontal installation, they recommend that the cell is turned downwards.

IC-20 low salt reading Despite fine levels

Dan,

The cell tests salt at start up and then every 12 hours.. It does not constantly check the salt level.. Cold water can make a difference..

That said, the cell's tolerance is +/- 600 ppm, so the reported salt can be pretty far off from the actual salt level in the pool..

If this difference gets above about 1000 ppm, then most likely the thermistor inside the flow switch is bad.. Replacing the flow switch is a DIY job..

If the cell is still under warranty, just have Pentair do it..

Thanks,

Jim R.
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Trying to Get Rid of the Pool Cleaning Blues with Robotic Cleaner

I will try to get the measurements when I get home from work tomorrow. TF-Pro kit? Thinking of converting to CircuPool RJ-45 next year, but liquid chlorine this year.
Here are measurements, although I measured depth only to top of waterline, where it sits at skimmer height. Total length of pool is 33'. Width of pool is 16'. Shallow end of pool is completely flat, and measures 16' x 9', being 36" deep. Deep end is 24' x 16'. Deep end is 8' deep. I don't know how to precisely calculate amount of water, because deep end slopes from shallow end at about a 45 degree angle, and all other sides of the deep end are beveled, rather than plunging straight down.

I will order TF-Pro chemical kit tonight.

IC-20 low salt reading Despite fine levels

I would unscrew it and take a peek. Usually the order of cleaning ranked from least impactful to most impactful is:
1. Spray it with a water hose to see if you can knock off any flakes
2. Use something non-metalic (like a popsicle stick) to knowck off any crusty
3. Use diluted vinegar solution to clean it
4. Use a diluted MA solution to clean it

Take a peek and post back. Note that your cell is very undersized for your pool, but should last more than 2 years.
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Wybot C1 Review

I used to use a Barracuda G3 cleaner and last year I dumped the Barracuda for a Maytronics Active 20. The Active 20 worked reasonably well, but the wall cleaning was really disappointing. It would rarely manage to climb the wall all the way to scrub the tiles, instead slipping off the wall and back down most of the time, only cleaning the tiles in occasional spots here and there.

Anyway, I never took the battery powered vacuum cleaners very seriously until I heard forum members talking about the Aiper Scuba S1 and giving it similar plaudits to the Betta. I considered getting the S1, but I have a kidney-shaped hopper bottom pool and the complaints about the S1 sometimes having difficulty with that kind of pool was a real concern.

During my research I found the Wybot C1, which seemed to be more or less in a similar class, less expensive than an S1, and the reviews didn't seem to complain about pool shape or slope, so I figured for $400, I might as well take a chance.

In short, it wildly exceeded my expectations. It completely blows away the much more expensive Active 20 at wall climbing and waterline scrubbing. It's not even close. It'll climb the wall until it's vertical a couple feet below the water line, pause, and then the impeller will appear to kick into high gear to increase traction and then it'll go right on up to the surface and get to work. It has a dedicated wall mode where it'll just scoot to the right and repeat around the perimeter of the pool.

It cleans the bottom just fine, and it does a much better job than the Active 20 at climbing steps and cleaning them as well (though brushing steps is still a good idea either way). No issues whatsoever climbing from the deep end to the shallow end of the pool.

The basket is roughly similar to the Active 20 with a hinged bottom. You can't swap out the mesh sides but it has a much better no-return flap than the Active 20 does, so it appears to be better at sucking up leaves where the Active 20 sometimes sucks them up and sometimes pushes them around. I'll follow up in the fall when leaf pickup will be a lot more challenging. There is no fine pleated filter mesh option like the Active 20, so that's a point in Maytronics' favor. Putting the basket back in the robot is a little bit fussy until you get used to the right angle to use. Once you have that down, it's fine.

The app is mandatory if you want to change settings, so something to think about there if you have an aversion to apps. Speaking of which, there are a variety of modes and patterns (different wall patterns, different floor patterns) to select from so you can find whatever works best for your situation. You can even select from a variety of pool shapes and materials in the app, but I'm not sure if the pool characteristics actually affect the robot at all. The app can sometimes be a bit fussy in that it's sometimes confusing about whether the robot picked up the mode switch or not. My advice is to set the desired cleaning mode and pattern, wait for the app to say "Successfully Sent!" and then let it get to work - but double check to see that the robot is behaving consistently with the requested mode.

One very nice feature the app provides is "scheduled cleaning". The robot will set aside 120 minutes of its 150 minute putative run time and split it up across 2,3, or 7 days for floor cleaning only (no walls). This is a really fantastic feature and since the robot is cordless, it's much more practical to leave the robot in the pool 24/7 - no ugly tangled cords running around the pool and the Betta and C1 coexist peacefully throughout the week. The pool has never been this clean day after day with minimal effort on my part before. I typically use 3-day mode and bring up the robot to charge in the middle of the week when I get back from work before dropping it back in the next morning.

Unfortunately, these schedules are "take it or leave it" - you can't tailor the timing or run time at all. For example, the 7 day schedule cleans every other day for 30 minutes, but you can't ask it to clean for a consecutive four days at 30 minutes a day, something I would have appreciated, or five days skipping only one day somewhere in between.

The robot is supposed to park itself at the waterline when it's done to be easily picked up, it doesn't seem to be very well implemented. You don't get any notification on your phone that it's done and ready to be picked up so in practice I just find the robot parked at the foot of the wall.

Charging is a piece of cake - you just unscrew a cap on the top of the robot and plug in the charger. There's nothing tricky or difficult about taking off the cap or putting it back on - it works exactly like you'd imagine it should. The charger wires are a little too thin IMHO and easily strained - mine came with a pretty good bend right at the edge of the strain relief and this made me a little worried about the longevity of the wire. Also replacement chargers are very expensive from Wybot - somewhere around $80-100 IIRC. Speaking of which, Wybot doesn't seem to carry much in the way of parts, so if the robot dies out of warranty, it may be hard to keep it in service. That's less of an issue considering the reasonable price, but it would be a shame to throw out a whole robot for want of a small part sometime down the road.

Overall, as long as the longevity is there, my impression is that the Wybot C1 is amazing for the price. If it only had filter mesh as nice as the Active 20 I'd really question if the Maytronics robot serves a purpose at all anymore. I've never used or seen an Aiper Scuba S1 in use so I can't say how the Wybot compares to that, but since it climbs the slopes of my pool fine, at least in terms of performance and navigation it appears to be a good alternative for folks with hopper bottoms and freeform shapes.

Hopefully this is helpful for folks looking in this space. If anyone has any questions I'll respond as best as I can as time permits.
Do u have a vinyl pool? Nervous about these on liners. Have you tried floor mode? Does it still attempt to climb steps on floor mode? How’s it still holding up?

New pool owner trying to understand test strip reading

Thoughts on this most recent reading tonight?

In CT we got around 2 inches of rain over the past couple days. I had to waste se water as it was over the skimmers by a decent amount. I brought it back to about halfway up the skimmer.

How is this plan:
- lower SWG from 40% to 20% tonight
- tomorrow after work at 47 oz of muriatic acid to lower pH back to 7.2
- on Friday when stabilizer is delivered add about 2 pounds to get it up to 70

Thoughts? Anything else?

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Skimmer basket replacement surprise

Thanks for helpful suggestions. I can’t believe I didn’t think of going to the local pool store first - might have cut off nose to spite face. The Valparaiso V60-555 does look like a very reasonable replacement.

Here is what was purchased - neither cheap nor correct and pic showed exactly what was received

I plan on stopping by a plumbing supply store in search of a PVC cap, or pool store in search of a skimmer basket tower. The basket received appears very sturdy and other than the open fitting, I’m happy with the basket in hand. My query was to see if more experienced folks might know where to purchase an appropriate “tower” to install in the basket. However, I’ve never had a situation here where a tower would have proved useful, as we have an auto-cover so skimmer debris accumulation is generally light.

Regards,

Joe M in WV
Buy the Val-Pak once and you will never buy another. Mine is now over 25 years old and the newer ones are even better with their integrated handle. They were originally advertised with the picture of a full-size pickup sitting on 4 of them, one under each tire. Also saw that at a distributor's display. Its all I would sell if available for a particular skimmer.

Noob to the forum. Looking for CYA advice

NO we are not slamming, we are going to attack the ammonia, then we wait for test kit before slamming.
We can only do ammonia.
I don't want to SLAM. I want you to add 10ppm, nothing more, try PM again. How much to add 10ppm?
Get 15 gallons. You can always use if for chlorinating afterwords. There will be a imprinted set of number in black by a printer on the jugs. Make sure the first two digits are 25.

Help adding Circupool SWG in tight place

Hi all! I’m struggling trying to think about the best way to plumb in a Circupool RJ60+ in my setup. The return line is a little over 20”, which I don’t think is quite enough room for the 15” Circupool cell plus the 4” flow switch even if installed inline, just because I’ll also need some leeway for the joins.

The issue is that there’s another pipe just above the return line, meaning I can’t do a vertical installation of the SWG without either first jutting out a bit or adjusting the pipe above. I’m curious what you all think makes the most sense.

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IC-20 low salt reading Despite fine levels

Hi all,

This is my second summer as a pool owner. Pool was installed fall-ish of 2023. So SWG isn’t even two years old yet.

I had the pool opened today. I came home to my SWG giving a low salt solid red light. Cold water and cell light are off and flow light is green.

I thought maybe not enough salt was added, but I have tested twice with a Taylor test kit and have gotten 3200 PPM both times.

Then I thought maybe the water was too cold, so I turned on heater. Water is now 66 degrees per the heater and still the same lights.

The cell has never been cleaned. I have read not to clean unless needed as acid will shorten life. I have also never taken it apart to check. So maybe this could be it? I had calcium flakes in pool around closet return to pump last year despite having good chemistry. So maybe it needs a clean?

Anybody got any advice on this? I appreciate any responses!

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Aquarite cell not generating

Basic AquaRite Diagnostics
This is the basic information we need to know in diagnosing a problem:

Report all diagnostic readings when you..
Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?

Noob to the forum. Looking for CYA advice

Ok, go to walmart and get 15 gallons of liquid chlorine. May take more, may take less, but you can use it to add FC after ammonia and slam.They have Pool Essential Liquid chlorine.
Also get at least 8 pounds of chlorine stabilizer, should come in a bag.
Might check your local store online to see if they have both in stock.
When you have your LC, I want you to add 10ppm of LC pump running. Use pool math to determine how much (Walmart LC is 10%). Post how much and I'll confirm you are using PM right.
Then, test FC with your DPD after 30 minutes, post a pic of the comparator.


This is what we are going to do. We can get rid of the ammonia with the DPD test.
I'll head to wallyworld.
I need 4.5 gallons to slam it.

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