Rancho Cost-a-Lotta said:

I tried to research how the system works on the CircuPool site and left with more questions than answers. I would be very surprised if it did not allow the ability to set SWG schedules through the app, but I can't find confirmation that it does. Can you link SWG system you are gonna install...

CircuPool CORE CONTROL

CircuPool CORE CONTROL™ revolutionizes pool care with smart chlorine generation, pH management, and full automation. Control your pool remotely with the My-Pool app.

www.circupool.com

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this it the one! what's ridiculous is it's not even on circupool's site...but i bought it from discount salt pool...so was i scammed? very odd if you ask me.

dosmom said:

but was told there is a sensor that sends the board the salt levels,

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No.
Read Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

TinFoilHat said:

No way to tell. Your photos don't show a gas line. How thick is the patio slab? As long as you don't pierce the slab you should be fine.

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I would say it is 4-6" deep. But I'll measure when I get home.

PoolStored said:

I'd wire the pump directly to a GCFI breaker.
My *OPION*, the only way to know the pump is not running is to have a Current Sensing Relay (which is what I have...)

Review this again, particularly,
A Variable Speed pump (VS) should have continuous power and not be connected to a timer. The pump runtime should be controlled by its internal control panel and clock. A separate mechanical timer can control the SWG. Care must then be taken for the SWG timer to turn on 15 minutes after the pump begins running and SWG power off before the pump turns off. This can become a problem when house power is lost, and the pump retains the proper time while the mechanical timer does not.

SWG How It Works - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

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tell me more about the current sensing relay and how that works... please

Dahnke82 said:

Thanks for your reply. I think I'm in luck with the union size as the Amazon order is a kit so it comes with it and is designed for fitting my Superflo pump.

Question: How long do I need to let the purple PVC glue cure before turning the pump on?

Here is a pic the kit I ordered. It comes with 2 sets. View attachment 643478

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PVC glue is not purple, that is PVC primer. If you get a good "blue" glue properly and use it with a primer, it will be ready to use faster than you can complete the repair and install it to the pump. If it is a warm day, give it 5 minutes, if it makes you less anxious. If cold, 10. Even a clear glue will set quickly. Just be sure to use enough to completely cover the entire area that is to be in contact with the pipe and fitting and use it on both surfaces. Since that is on the suction side, it is far less likely to leak than if it were on the outlet of the pump.

Interesting that it is producing chlorine but was told there is a sensor that sends the board the salt levels, so I guess that may be going bad but it still produces chlorine. It is 6 years old so I got good life out of it.

A changing salt reading through the day would indicate a bad cell.

1poolman1 said:

Yes. Hard to read, but it looks like the terminal top right is high speed (circuit 1 on the Intermatic) and the top left is low (circuit 2 on the Intermatic). If it is reversed, just move the wires.
The "common" appears to be the center terminal of that board. It would normally be the wire that goes to the A terminal on a Century 2-speed pump motor, which is what you probably have now.
You won't need to use the terminals that the diagram shows for the "line" wires except for the ground terminal.
A picture of the timer with the insulator removed would help determine which wire is going to the common from the timer.

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I just posted it!

rbrown226 said:

Can I just bypass the switch and wire it directly to the area I circled?
View attachment 643498

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Yes. Hard to read, but it looks like the terminal top right is high speed (circuit 1 on the Intermatic) and the top left is low (circuit 2 on the Intermatic). If it is reversed, just move the wires.
The "common" appears to be the center terminal of that board. It would normally be the wire that goes to the A terminal on a Century 2-speed pump motor, which is what you probably have now.
You won't need to use the terminals that the diagram shows for the "line" wires except for the ground terminal.
A picture of the timer with the insulator removed would help determine which wire is going to the common from the timer.

Just wanted to update, incase anyone else runs into the same issue.

After a little back and forth with Hayward support and sending them proof of purchase, and pictures of the message and wiring, they decided to replace the Smart Relay under warranty. Received the new one late last week and got it replaced this weekend. Everything is working perfectly now. Woo Hoo!

One can dream...

Also, not every household has a pool. However, I think the industry is big enough for a disrupter. I'm looking forward to that. It will come, and someone is going spend a few millions to make hundreds of millions of dollars. The technology is there, and the good olde boys are going to get the rugs pulled under them.

Newdude said:

Oh yes. Its a must when you are paying to heat. Unless you're rich. Lol.

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Although I do wonder about the economics of automated covers. If you are paying $10k for such a system is it worth it? Or just burn more gas?

Woody007 said:

I run in GPM mode most of the time. I use RPM mode on the quick clean option set to calculated 3K rpm and I use that value to check DE filter pressure. With clean filter and 3K I have 20 psi at the filter. The air is gone when I have to booster on but returns in a couple of hours after I turn off the booster even running at 3K rpm.
The pump is only a few weeks old. I did remove and lube up the two drain plugs on the pump as well and took out the lid o-ring and cleaned/lubed it. The lid is different in that the clear part appears to be an insert inside of the ring that tightens the lid. It has an o-ring in it too, but I can't see how it would come out.
Is there any way that too large of a pump could be the issue? I was a 1.5 single speed Challenger and replaced with 3hp VSF. Pipe is 1.5" for the most part.

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Are you able to continually expel air from the filter at the air relief valve? Do it once, come back a few minutes later and try again. Is it a lot or just a quick spurt? Seeing no air in the pot used to be the standard to judge by. Now, with VSPs, it isn't. You get used to it.
My VSP will, on a rare occasion, have no air visible in the pot, usually right after a filter cleaning. Most of the time it does show what appears to be some. Yet, I am seldom able to get more than a quick spray of air from the filter, even at low speeds.
I know my pool equipment, like most eventually, has a small leak somewhere that allows the filter to drain each day after the pump shuts off. There is never water anywhere. Some leaks will allow air in but are small enough to not allow water out.

Intermatic Manual

Looks like you will have to check settings in the timer along with a little bit of wiring.

Bill1974 said:

Looks like the pump speed can only be set by the switch on the pump. To power your new pump it just needs two hot wires (250V between them) and a ground. Not sure what your current controller is, but I would bet if you looked for the install manual for it there would be instructions on connecting it to a single speed 250V pump.
Xtremepower Manual

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Can I just bypass the switch and wire it directly to the area I circled?

HI Michael,

I have a challenge for any robot company no matter how big or small. . My pool is ~68K gallon. S400 is useless in this pool. The Beatbot iskimmer works on occasion, but I have shallow areas 4-6" that this bot gets stuck. I still need a riptide, a pondovac, fine and coarse nets, various sized brushes and mainly elbow grease to maintain this pool's cleaning activities. See pic. For perspectives, the length of the steps is about ~40'. 4' to 8' decline from the diving board to the slide. From the rainmaker (4 columns) to the steps (2 planters) is about ~28'-30'.

I believe that these robots have scrubbing power for walls and floors, but nothing seems to be able to scrub like a manual light brush which leads me to believe that these "scrubs" are for show and propulsion only. I beat that most pool owners with robots spend more time babysitting it than time enjoying their pool. My gold standard is that a robot should allow you more time to enjoy the pool than cleaning and maintaining it.

1poolman1 said:

What are you using now to control 2 speeds? Show a picture of the new motor with the wiring compartment open.

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I posted the setup below

Currently using an Intermatic digital controller


The last picture is from the Hayward wiring. From top to bottom, it was black, blue, red

Looks like the pump speed can only be set by the switch on the pump. To power your new pump it just needs two hot wires (250V between them) and a ground. Not sure what your current controller is, but I would bet if you looked for the install manual for it there would be instructions on connecting it to a single speed 250V pump.
Xtremepower Manual

It seems to be a track issue. I pulled it out this morning and put it upside down and the track was clunking/slipping on the one side. I pulled it off and then reset it and it looked to operate as normal. Perhaps it was hitting that slipping point and didn't have enough torque/speed to move forward which caused the stopping. Could also explain when it came up against a wall there wasn't enough force for the gyroscope or whatever, to make it realize it needed to turn around. Still doesn't explain the normal operation under manual control.

I ordered new tracks and brushes and will replace them and hope that tightens things up.