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Pool Filter Rust Prevention

R
I know this is an older thread, however, I had the same Pentair rust issue and hopefully have added another step to prevent future issues. I ordered a new stainless ring. When I received it, I cleaned/prepped the spot welds and area around it (rust begins here). I then coated the area with POR 15 and let cure for 96 hrs. I happened to have some Gray POR15 from a previous project.
I removed the rusty stainless ring in the filter and cleaned the rust on the inside of the housing with Barkeepers Friend. Finally I reassembled everything and started the system back up. I'm not 100% sure this will prevent future rust, but I feel a lot better with it coated in POR 15, than without. Fingers crossed.
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Pool Filter Rust Prevention

R
I know this is an older thread, however, I had the same Pentair rust issue and hopefully have added another step to prevent future issues. I ordered a new stainless ring. When I received it, I cleaned/prepped the spot welds and area around it (rust begins here). I then coated the area with POR 15 and let cure for 96 hrs. I happened to have some Gray POR15 from a previous project.
I removed the rusty stainless ring in the filter and cleaned the rust on the inside of the housing with Barkeepers Friend. Finally I reassembled everything and started the system back up. I'm not 100% sure this will prevent future rust, but I feel a lot better with it coated in POR 15, than without. Fingers crossed.
Click to expand...

Attachments

  • pool1.jpg
    pool1.jpg
    67.2 KB · Views: 4
  • pool2.jpg
    pool2.jpg
    68.6 KB · Views: 6
  • pool3.jpg
    pool3.jpg
    84.6 KB · Views: 6
  • pool4.jpg
    pool4.jpg
    46 KB · Views: 6
  • pool5.jpg
    pool5.jpg
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Chloride production set at 80+%?

ajw22
Note that chlorine production is better high then low. Someone did you a favor setting it high.

Nothing bad happens with high chlorine. Low chlorine is where you get algae, a green pool, and lots of work cleaning it up. High chlorine is easy to fix and get down to swimable levels.

The questions above will help you figure out a good setting.
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Chloride production set at 80+%?

Jimrahbe
Chen,

What is your CYA level?? Without knowing your current CYA, no one can tell if your FC (chlorine) is ok or too high or too low..

See the saltwater section of this link..

FC/CYA Levels

We are different than most pool stores or pool websites.. We use science and testing to determine if our pool water is in balance.

This time a year, I would say 85% output is way too high..

It could be your CYA is way too low allowing the sun to quickly burn off your FC.

It could also be that you have algae (even if you can't see it yet), which is consuming all the chlorine that your salt system can produce.

Show us the following test data...

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt

Thanks,

Jim R.
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Opened pool, tested CYA with it possibly being under 30

S
Newdude said:
To mix it for 24 hours before you trust it. It takes the same time to re-disperse as it does to disperse the first time. :)

Then if its under 30, make a judgements call if you should add 10 / 15 / 20 because you likely have some, its just a question of how much.

Welcome back. :wave:
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Thanks.

So going forward when I open next year, let it circulate for 24 hrs then test for CYA?

How much LC should I add in the mean time while I scrub etc?

On a side note, I tested last night and it was 12.5, with .5 CC, this morning it was 13.5 with .5 CC.

So far so good.
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Chloride production set at 80+%?

S
Welcome -
FYI, it is Chlorine...Chlorides are other things, that we never want in a pool. Sorry for the correction!

The setting needed depends on a lot of things.
1. How long your pump runs in 24 hrs.
2. The size of the salt generator (can it make a lot, or not so much?)
3. To a small extent, the level of salt in the pool (but not a big factor)
4. The big one - how much CL does your pool lose in a day. In winter it may be little, in summer it may be a large amount.
5. Related to #4, the level of CYA in the water, so what level does it need to build to, if the CL is low.

See the above links for more detail. Get a preferred test kit. Fill in your signature line here with information about your pool and specific equipment. Get familiar with the PoolMath app (or web version).
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Water not clear

T
Your chorine is low and algae has probably formed. Your PH is good for a SLAM. Can you get liquid chlorine? Perform the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test linked below before you determine what might be happening. With only that test kit you are flying a bit blind because you need to know your CYA level too.
Pool Care Basics
FC/CYA Levels
PoolMath
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
SLAM Process
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Help me navigate conflicting info for target ranges

S
The above answers are right on. To add context to some of the differences you noted:

CH - The amount relates to the structure of the pool, and the equipment. My vinyl pool, without a heater, doesn't care at all. A plaster pool may be subject to erosion or deposits. A heater may have specs (right or wrong) for an expected level. So a very wide range may be tolerated, depending on the situation.

CYA - Higher CYA demands greater overall Cl levels. For liquid (or, gasp!, the evil tablets) a lower level means less product usage. A salt pool can run much higher, as the CL is free, so better protection from sudden drops (sun, bather loads, etc.)

Salt - rather than a generic target, one can set one's own to better comply with the specification set out by the manufacturer.

As you read through the resources noted, you'll see the reasoning behind the other measures, and how to better define targets specific to your pool.
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OmniLogic ORP reading low

J
recently opened my pool for the season. The ORP sensor in my sense and dispense system was working great - about 2ppm free chlorine at 650mV. We had a power outage for about 8 hours and my whole house generator kicked in. When it runs the LED lights flicker as it's not perfectly 'clean' power. The next day my ORP sensor was reading very low - 350mV, but free chlorine was the same. I also forgot to close the sense and dispense door so perhaps water got in? Not sure if there's any way to recalibrate the sensor or if i have to buy new? Do you think i need a power conditioner inline to the panel, or do you think water may be the culprit?

thank you

Jack
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Circupool Core 35 install

O
I think the “collective wisdom” I was referring to was the (perceived by me and my studying here) need for two fail safe devices to protect the SWG from running dry. (Flow switch + timer/current sensor).

What I was attempting to say, and I believe you are in agreement with, is that running the pump 24/7 effectively serves the purpose of one of the fail safes, so in my mind I still have two.
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IMG_7206.jpeg

C
IMG_7206.jpeg

solar heater questions

D
i am considering placing solar heater piping on my garage roof. i have some questions and would appreciate your insight/experience:

height - we have a 1.15hp pump. will it really be able to send the water up 12-15 feet to the roof? i imagine almost full power will be needed. i dont expect there will be loss of pressure at the returns because the water will gain some velocity in coming back down, right?

stagnancy - if you dont run water through the solar pipes, does the water which is sitting in there from being primed stagnate?

durability - i was shocked to see these tubing panels frequently come with 10 year plus warranties. how can black rubber that gets beat on by the sun not break down sooner??
in that same vein, i understand you can leave it on the roof for winter? wouldnt snow piling, and freeze thaw cause them to break down as well? we live in ontario, canada and can get quite harsh winters

thanks in advance for your replies
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Water line size and pressure and RO fill line

O
haroldo said:
I spoke with Ken directly, one of the owners of that company. They build them to order, with 5-6 weeks lead time. Cost starts at 6K. This particular model is made for pool fill lines:
www.purewaterindustries.com

Inline RO Filtration Systems | Pure Water Industries

www.purewaterindustries.com www.purewaterindustries.com
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I’m having a little trouble accepting that price for what it does. “Starting at $6k” I assume gets you 400 GPD. I can buy a fancy marine desalinator for $3.5k at 440 GPD that, as far as I can tell, achieves the same thing with the same basic parts and pieces. Food for thought.

Which fill system are you looking at? Mine is plumbed in 3/4” but it regulates through a toilet fill valve that effectively chokes it down to ~1/4”, so I don’t feel like the supply line size is particularly critical.
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Help me navigate conflicting info for target ranges

Newdude
Hey Harold and Welcome !!!

The truth is, everybody has to pick *something*, even us, and even then it can't come close to nailing what a particular pool in a particular location needs. Even between two neighbors, an intex and a plaster pool will behave miles apart.

So we teach you how to understand how your style pool typically behaves in your area, then tweak it as need be because things don't always follow the rules.

In the end, you'll be your own pool's pro, and be well experienced in handling anything that arises.
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