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Gunnite & Tile Repair

Recent new homeowner going on our second season and dealing with pool tile issue. I'm comfortable with basic tile repair for pools, but the erosion behind the recently loosened/fallen tiles has me a bit concerned. Gunnite has chipped away or eroded into sand leaving larger gap needed for repair then what thinset would be designed for. 1) Is this of major structural concern? (I will mention it is concrete slab cantilever style coping/decking if it is relevant) 2) If no, I'm thinking this is a job for hydraulic cement to patch the eroded gunnite to be flush with the remainder of thell shell and do standard tile repair via thinset and grouting?

The pool is 22 years old and I am inclined to believe prior owner was not the best at pool chemistry upkeep and was a frequent DIYer, but the quality of some of his patchwork tiling appears to be spotty which may have lead to the further erosion of the gunnite behind the tiling.

Any insight or perspective is appreciated.

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New pool owner - new fill - keep adding chlorine and FC will not rise

The post title says it all.

I am a new pool owner. We have an 18' x 52" above-ground pool, roughly 8300 gallons. The pool math app has suggested very low amounts of my 12.5% liquid chlorine to raise my FC. I ended up adding 256 oz of the liquid chlorine and the FC level is still 0. My CYA level is 0 as well and I do plan on adding some soon (I've been doing some research and it seems like 3lbs would bring me to my target of 45).

My question is this - why does the pool math app and any other online pool calculator suggest such a low amount of liquid chlorine? Do I have some other kind of issue since my FC level is not rising at all? I am feeling a bit overwhelmed and really don't want to mess up the water to the point that I need to drain it.

Thank you!

RPM changes for Intellitouch Not Holding when using phone or computer

P,

Does not sound like something that ScreenLogic or the EasyTouch can do... :scratch:

Are you using your PC or a phone to make changes?

Can you tell me, or show me, what you are doing? Pool vs. cleaner?? In general, all the electronics used to change "Pool" would be used to change "Cleaner" so on the surface it makes no sense, that one would work and the would not work..

Something else must be going on..

We need more info..

Thanks,

Jim R.

Pentair IC60 creates chlorine when first turned on and then flashes "inspect cell"

Well, that lasted for a day. The pool has 2ppm chlorine now, but the cell light is flashing green again. I took the unit out, flushed it with water, and reinstalled it. There was no scale buildup on the fins. The cell light went back to solid green for about 30 minutes and now it is flashing again. Easy Touch panel is still reporting salt at 4,350. The salt level light is solid green. I am attaching a pic of the sticker on the back of the unit.

When I hold down the "More" button for 5+ seconds, the lights all flash, it runs through its diagnostics, it shows 40% remaining useful life (i.e., the 20%, 40%, and 60% lights are lit green).

I am about to throw in the towel on this one and just order a new SWG; however, if anybody has any advice on what I can do to keep this going, I'll take the advice and give it a shot.

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cheap but effective pool chemicals - what do you use and where do you buy?

Hey Whil and Welcome !!

We are *exactly* the place you'e looking for.

Bleach isn't strong enough for the cost. It's 6% or less and similar price as 10% or 12.5%. Pool Essentials Chlorinating liquid is most people's go-to at Walmart. Pool stores may have good deals on 12.5% but its hit or miss.

13lbs of Baking soda is a lifetime supply from Costco/Sam's and about $10.

Ace hardware has full strength Muriatic acid for $10 or $13, area depending.

That's it 99% of the time. Come check before buying anything else.
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New pool owner trying to understand test strip reading

Can you send me a picture of this? I am not sure how I would tie that off.
Us large pool folks need to be crafty.

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Sun ledge/baja shelf build

The “bond beam” is the top of the pool structure, it can be raised (in 6” IMG_0721.jpegincrements) or it can be at 0”.
Typically a reef step/shelf is excavated at 21” below the top of bond beam with 9” of shotcrete, 1” of plaster and 3” below top of tile, this should leave around 8” of water depth when finished.
Your calculations will leave 6’ of water (3” of exposed tile subtracted from the 9”) if it’s being measured from the top of the “bond beam”.
If it’s being said that there’s going to be 9” to finished water line then the measurement should be 13” from top of beam to top of shotcrete.
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New pool owner trying to understand test strip reading

No, put the CYA into a human sock, tie it off and hang it 6-12 inches out in front of a return.
Can you send me a picture of this? I am not sure how I would tie that off. And why can't I use skimmer socks? I bought a 50 pack :LOL:
So either your chlorine is old, or your pool volume is wrong.
What are the dimension of your pool. L, W, D shallow and D deep?
Post a picture of the LC jug where the imprinted some numbers.
So, I bought this chlorine this time around at a local pool store in CT that said it is made in Bristol, CT. It did not have a number stamped on it.

The dimensions of our pool are 18x36 with with a 12x6 sun shelf. Shallow end 3.5 deep. Deep end 8 feet. The diagram the PB provided said the gallons were 22,800.
Run it 24/7. Pumps are made to run. Starting and stopping pumps are hard on them. Running them is not hard on them.
Sounds good. Thanks.
Post a pic of your MA bottle.
I am not home, but I bought the same one you recommended from ACE. I bought thee bottles of that.
Stabilizer can be in the pool for adding anything else. Wait 10 minutes between adding acid and chlorine. Brush a bunch after adding either.
Sounds good

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