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PoolStored · May 5, 2025

My guess was wrong. (who'd a thunk it. Lol)
That's why we test...was just a guess.
I'm surprised. We usually see this in the desert SW.
At 180, I'd run soft water.

PoolStored · May 5, 2025

Don't add more CYA until you show 5+ ppm, 30 minutes AFTER a 10ppm addition.

There is a bacteria that eats CYA and creates ammonia. It happens. The chlorine cleans it up.

bf2024 · May 5, 2025

This was posted about 3 years ago. I am having the same exact problem now. I was wondering if there was a solution to the problem.
This was posted by Rootcd in August of 2022.

"My Pentair Superflo VS stopped working after three years of use. The display and lights still work. I'm getting an error code of 00F, which it seems means that it isn't getting at least 99v of power. I've put a multimeter on it and the L1 is getting 120v, which is what is wired to the pump. Breaker is 120v. Only other connection point is at 120v.

What else could be the issue? Hoping to not have to buy another pump."

Dambra · May 5, 2025

PoolStored said:
What is the CH of your water? Around here (N.Ohio) CH is about 90, and with the amount of rain we get, CH is NEVER an issue. I end up having to add CH.
Test your fill water CH and we can give you a better answer.
My guess, it is not necessary.

I will run some testing, however some local data on town water is as follows:

Hardness = 180 mg/L (10.5 grains per gallon)

Iron = 0.7 mg/L (0.3 mg/L is the threshold at which iron can cause issues)

bf2024 · May 5, 2025

rootcd said:
black to white is 120. And I hear the pump or motherboard click every 30 seconds or so.

I know this is an old thread but I have the exact same problem you were having. I was wondering how you fixed your problem.

PoolStored · May 5, 2025

starr1005 said:
I should have said, we are not doing the heater, does that change your thought on a chlorinator?

No. Pucks add CYA, they are not sustainable. You either go (LC) OR (SWG), or (use pucks until your CYA get to 60, convert to liquid, allow CYA to drop to 30, go back to pucks) or (use pucks until your CYA gets to 60, drain and replace enough to get to 30, then continue with pucks.
Read this:

SWG How It Works - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

starr1005 said:
He also said variable speed pump but i will confirm. If it's variable speed, then I don't need the clock you are saying?

Correct. The VSP has it's own clock and configurable programming and should be wired directly to GFCI breaker.

starr1005 said:
I will get the other equipment info as well and report back.

Thanks for the advice on blasting.

I've seen some other stuff on a chlorine generator, is that now the preferred way to go?

In TX? Pfffffft...no question. Get one that is rated for 2x your pool volume.

KBreuer15 · May 5, 2025

When I turn the pump on, no water get pulled into the basket. What am I doing wrong? I feel like all those valves are open.

KBreuer15 · May 5, 2025

mchoch · May 5, 2025

Ah yikes! I did add some CYA which seems like the exact wrong thing to do.

My CC is testing at 5.5, still near 0 FC. From the ammonia, I should test and keep adding chlorine. Any recommendations on CYA other than don’t add more until I start seeing some FC?

SoCalDIYWannabe · May 5, 2025

I'm hoping not to get in over my head, I've been doing pretty good staying above water so far but I think I might be slightly off on my electrical stuff.

If the power coming into the intermatic timer/pump is on 30 amp and 10 gauge I believe all is okay up to here.

The wiring from the rj60 seems to be a three strand 18 gauge. And the relay board instructions say to use 12 gauge.

What direction do I need to be looking here? Add a subpanel? Change my 30 amp circuit breaker to a 20 amp? Both of those routes would require me getting a 20 amp circuit breaker double pole gfci, right?

PoolStored · May 5, 2025

Circupool has the smartflow automation:

CircuPool® SmartFlo Interface Kit-USF-INTERFACE

www.circupool.com

Same thing, but less $$$

https://www.poolsupplyunlimited.com/pool/calimar-cmarvspib-pump-interface-board/187101p1

Enzodast said:
Discount salt pool recommended i buy a plug in timer to make sure the salt gen only gets power certain hours per day primarily when the pump is in lower speeds and not when it first turns on. Is this ideal?

Doesn't matter. Use the pump add on automation. You'll be fine.

Enzodast said:
Others have said the salt gen is smart enough to just stay on and plugged in....will it be more wear and tear on it just letting it have power full time? So even when the pump turns off it wont sense flow (i know it has a flow sensor) it just wont activate itself...but i think DSP was trying to say it might save components in the salt gen only being on 12 hours per day versus 24/7.

You don't want power full time. If pump fails, hydrogen gas is explosive. Good read:

SWG How It Works - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Get the automation add-on, power the Core from there. Clean your filter, turn the VSP down until the flow sensor turns the SWG off, then run your pump at 200 RPM above that speed.

If you have other needs, read this:

Pump Basics - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

starr1005 · May 5, 2025

PoolStored said:
Have them specify the MODEL # of the filter, pump.
Get the largest filter you can afford. Many year like the Pentair Clean&Clear PLUS, or Waterway in either 420 or 520.
Get an intelliflo3 VARIABLE speed pump. The 3hp is nice. Then you don't need a timeclock, and VSP will save you $$ on your electric bill.
Ditch the chlorinator. Quickest way to kill a heater, and they are expensive. Have them quote a salt water chlorine generator that is 2x the pool volume.
Boost pump/pressure side cleaner is not in my wheelhouse. Some like them some don't. Booster pumps are an added cost and maintenance. Might consider, not a recommendation, a robot.

Be careful on the bead blasting:

In general with any kind of blasting work, you want to match the blasting media so that it is as hard or harder than the material you want to remove but not so hard that it damages the underlying substrate. As you can see from above, the kierserite and glass beads will satisfy the first criteria BUT the glass beads can also cut into the tile glaze.

Waterline Scale Removal - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

I should have said, we are not doing the heater, does that change your thought on a chlorinator?
He also said variable speed pump but i will confirm. If it's variable speed, then I don't need the clock you are saying?
I will get the other equipment info as well and report back.

Thanks for the advice on blasting.

I've seen some other stuff on a chlorine generator, is that now the preferred way to go?

Bperry · May 5, 2025

I’m assuming “fixed” means that there’s either clean water in the pool or the pool is empty. Interested to hear what happens.

dpl252 · May 5, 2025

Trying to see if it's possible in iAqualink to set solar priority to turn on solar heat when air temp is higher than pool temp AND ALSO increase pool pump speed with solar heat is on.

Currently my schedule is set to 10am - 7pm to turn pump on, and is set to regular speed (2000rpm). I was trying to run the pump at 24/7 at a lower rpm but was struggling to get reliable flow on my Jandy Truclear SWG (I know it's not a great model but it's what I have and i'll use it until it fails). So currently just have it set for 9 hours during the day which seems to be enough. The issue I'm now trying to figure out it, I want to set Solar Heat to turn on when the temp is higher than the pool temp (as opposed to just scheduling specific hours to turn it on then off).

How can I set this in iAqualink? Also, is it possible to trigger a VSP Speed Adjustment based on if Solar Heat is enabled? If my Solar valve is open, 2000rpm isn't enough to send the water to the roof and still get good flow out of my returns, so I usually bump it up like 2700/2800 for Solar.

D.sebens · May 5, 2025

My siding appears to be pvc(or something not wood). It is held together with strips of osb on each section. Some of it has gotten rotten and some the glue has detached from the siding. I plan on repairing the frame and repainting the siding.

My first question is if I should do framing strips in a box shape as they did before or if I could do a solid plywood panel behind the siding? My thought is if it’s solid there is much more glueing surface and should hold better. But I’m also thinking that I could possibly have issues with expansion and contraction. Which if we’re being honest I don’t know if the box frame of strips does anything for that? I don’t have a picture of the back of the panel but I do have one of the outside and I’ll sketch up what the inside looks like.

My second question is can I just scrub it and paint over the siding?

The sketch uploaded is an idea of how it is currently framed.

Screen Shot 2025-05-05 at 7.59.59 PM.png

DougJack · May 5, 2025

Ahhsomeguy said:
Our European Distributor, Total Water Products, located in Wales can assist. Speak with Wayne or Paul.

Google Search

Great! Thanks so much!

PoolStored · May 5, 2025

Dambra said:
Random question… running some plumbing to an outdoor bathroom / shed (future cabana area)… for the sake of refilling my pool down the road, whenever needed or due to evaporation, am I better off using hard or soft water?

What is the CH of your water? Around here (N.Ohio) CH is about 90, and with the amount of rain we get, CH is NEVER an issue. I end up having to add CH.
Test your fill water CH and we can give you a better answer.
My guess, it is not necessary.

Dambra · May 5, 2025

Random question… running some plumbing to an outdoor bathroom / shed (future cabana area)… for the sake of refilling my pool down the road, whenever needed or due to evaporation, am I better off using hard or soft water?

Dambra · May 5, 2025

SunnyP2000 said:
looks great. its odd builder only offered 1 skimmer but looks great.

Thanks and yea we went with only one.

PoolStored · May 5, 2025

I would absolutely replace those ball valves now. If, not when they go bad.
Why have a diverter on the return?
What is the purpose of the one diverter on the input side?

wireform · May 5, 2025

Go for the 30, 5% increments make it simple to dial it in.

Newdude · May 5, 2025

Click the blue link in post #10. We are not affiliated with them in any way. A boatload of members had good experiences/ equipment from them and as long as the reports come back the same, we'll keep recommending them.

Divin Dave · May 5, 2025

Mr. Muriaticacid said:
I installed this IC40 in May of 2018. It still works flawlessly. The problem I have with it is the top half of the housing is starting to separate at the forward end. At higher speeds it leaks right where the gray adhesive(?) is visible. I was afraid that it would totally separate one day when I wasn’t around and cause major chaos to my equipment! It was painful to shell out $1400 but you can’t put a price on safety. I plan on keeping it,just in case, and knowing that I need to keep the pump speed down low. I was just curious if anybody has seen this or if it’s possible to fix it.
One other thing, on the old IC40 I could run the pump as low as 600 rpm but the new one triggers the flow light if I try to go that low, odd.View attachment 642507

Yup, I had 2 of them do this exact thing. The first one took 8 years. On mine, I suspect water got inside and shorted stuff out as I could see what looked like short circuit burn marks around on the lights on top. The 2nd one lasted 2 years and it separated. No burn marks visible, so I cut it open with a saw and found a fried circuit board, presumably to water getting inside there again.

PoolStored · May 5, 2025

The 30 is perfect.
DiscountSaltPool.com

mark44x · May 5, 2025

The 24 foot round is around 14,000 gallons.
The Rj20 or R30 would be sufficient or I should go bigger?
What website do you guys order from?

Newdude · May 5, 2025

Circupool has the rj20 for $1495 and the RJ30 for $1499. DSP has the 30 for $1349 Click here

PoolStored · May 5, 2025

Ammonia.
Not phosphorous/phosphates.
Follow the Ammonia process, then SLAM for the algae:

Ammonia - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

mchoch · May 5, 2025

Struggling with pool startup. I opened to 0 FC yesterday. Added LC to get up to SLAM levels per pool math calculator (2.5 gallons 12%). Pool was pretty clear but had some gunk and worms that I vacuumed to skimmer.

FC didn’t come up after initial add, very faint pink at the start of the test- maybe 1.0 ppm but the color would go away and come back after a few seconds. I tested for CC and it was 2.5 PPM - started the color I’m used to seeing FC.

I let it pump over night and had these readings this morning (TF-100).

FC 0.5-1 (faint, comes back after a couple of seconds- added photo)
CC 2.5
PH 7.2
TA 140
CYA below 30, close
CH 175
Water Temp 55 F

I also had some potential algae this morning that I vacuumed to waste and brushed and backwashed. I was a little surprised with my water temp in the 50s.

I’ve added another 5 gallons of 12.5% LC a gallon at a time today and retested. My FC is staying at the low range and CC keeps climbing- last test I had it at 5.5 PPM.

The water isn’t cloudy but I do keep getting settling on the bottom. Is this algae?

I’m running out of ideas and chlorine! Continuing to add chlorine seems like the definition of insanity at this point.

I’ve found some other posts where CC gets high and seems like phosphorus could be the culprit so I ordered a test kit.

mchoch · May 5, 2025

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