I was obsessive about CSI and it helped. On my first RS35+ it worked great. After 7 years the cell was still going strong. Never even had to clean it. The current pool with our RJ 60+ is a lot different with very high TA and minimal CH. Fill water is 230 TA and I'm correcting an excursion right now. Learning all about when you have deposits it also affects the salt sensor and repeatedly shows way lower than my Taylor K 1766 test. When I cleaned it with diluted muriatic acid it bubbled like a volcano!

You have plenty of time to fix this up. Use a skimmer net to get as much out of it as you can. If the pump runs then you can start SLAMming the pool with lots of liquid chlorine. Links below. You will need to watch your filter pressure and backwash or clean the cartridges when the pressure rises 25% which will be very fast at first. Get a recommended test kit so you know what your water parameters are and because you can't SLAM without being able to get Free Chlorine levels of 10-20 ppm during SLAM. For example, you want PH in the low 7s. You might have to drain the pool first just to get a reasonable baseline for the water.
Pool Care Basics
FC/CYA Levels
SLAM Process
Test Kits Compared
PoolMath

The polaris is probably stealing some flow rate from the SWG while running so if the minerals are excessive, then that could explain why you get getting a high salt warning. You might just try running the SWG without the mineral insert to see if that is the cause.

Thanks everyone. I’ll spend some time tomorrow redoing all the connections on the equipment pad.

PS. Pentair recommends all that tubing be replaced regularly. (And with what they charge for it, I can see why!) I've never changed mine. I suppose I should. The acid did a number on the internal tubing (the tube that the rollers squeeze). It was trashed. And I've had to replace the injector at least once, 'cause that got eaten up, too. Just FYI.

Even the parts made to be subjected to the acid eventually all succumb to it.

tylerharm29 said:

Hello,
I’ve got a question relating to whether or not I need to add additional returns to my tanning ledge or not. I’m installing a 16ft x 32ft pool with 2 skimmers, main drains and 3 returns (currently). All plumbing is 2”. The attached drawing shows the skimmer locations in blue and return locations in red. Maximum water depth is 4ft-6”. The prevailing wind blows from the tanning ledge end to the “deep” end.

Here are my questions:
If I don’t add the additional returns to my tanning ledge area, am I going to have water circulation issues?

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Not so much on circulation but more about dirt accumulating on the shelf.

tylerharm29 said:

With a 2.2 variable speed pump, is the pump large enough to even support adding these 2 returns?

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Yes, any pump can handle that but it may require running at higher RPM $$.

tylerharm29 said:

Opinions on current locations of skimmers and returns?

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If wind blows right to left, the skimmer should be in the deep end where all the surface debris will end up. Also, with that size pool, 2 skimmers is a bit overkill. But it looks like they already cut out the skimmer locations so maybe it is too late?

When you listen for the sound of air escaping, listen carefully around the air relief valve on the top of your filter. This is a common failure point.

mas985 said:

Where is the supply for the Polaris plumbed into the plumbing, before or after the swg?

Do you have a VS pump and are your running at lower RPMs?

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polaris is before SWG. old school single speed Jandy pump(waiting for it to die to replace with new VS )

jonpcar said:

Hey @Dirk, shading the tubes is definitely a plus, but I also notice that in your configuration the ferrule/tubes are pointed down, unlike the recommended position for the stenner pump standalones which puts them horizontally (at least mine does with the “This END UP” labeling on my included bracket, haha).

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Are you talking about the tubes leading into and out of the the pump housing? I never gave that any thought. That pump is mounted to a Pentair IntellipH, and that's how it comes. I doubt it matters much, but it would seem that coming straight down would put less stress on the tubes vs coming out horizontally. Maybe there is some other reason your Stenner needs to be oriented that way, though I can't even guess on why that might be.

Probably unrelated, but take a look at your check valve. The indicator shows the flow is traveling sideways. It should be coming from the heater and going out towards the SWG. While you're at it check the seal/gasket under that cover.

What is the make/model of the new pump?

What is the RPM when running the booster?

What is the filter pressure when running on full speed with and without the booster?

The booster should not be making that much of a difference unless you are running at very low RPM.

You probably have a leak at a connection at the pad. Clean all the mating surfaces and lube the o rings / gaskets and road test that. (Filter and pump lids too)

*assuming no drips under pressure or psssssst sound when you shut the system off. Those would make it easier to locate.

I have been using a Smonet CR6 Pro I purchased off Amazon. After downloading the "app", you can set it to wall only, floor only or wall and floor by simplying pressing the on/off button multiple times to select which mode you want before dropping it in the pool. I don't really need it to scrub the walls either. My pool has a 6' to 3' deep slope and it handles it just fine. The first unit I had was spectacular. It stopped working and the company replaced it with a new one, no charge since it was still within the 1 year warrenty. Then the second one quit, replaced again. Now the third one has been having issues with one side's track not turning. They are sending yet another replacement. Great customer service. I am hoping the latest replacement is as good as the first one was. Not sure how many more I will continue with if they continue to have issues. But I would think most robotic cleaners have the option to set to floor only.

I'm having a problem with the TFP recommended levels are just fine part of your post. TFP recommended levels for a fiberglass pool with SWG is 350-550 ppm for ideal levels. For acceptable minimum level, it's 250-350 ppm. That does not jive with the calcium is not important advice that is often posted. I keep my calcium at 200 ppm for the pool heater.

Right, because it isn’t generating. If the cell is producing chlorine, as my test showed, can it be sending the wrong salt value to the panel and still be failing, even if it is producing chlorine?

Iguanod said:

@Dirk you were spot on on the diagram (except instead of two skimmers it is one skimmer and one vacuum port), I'm sorry I made you guess, I could have just labeled the pic... I may be able to go with your suggestion, although I'm not sure two 45 degree elbows will fit there, but I will get them and check. Anyway, if it fits, are you suggesting adding two horizontal pipes? Wouldn't the 180 degree turn be a problem (I recall reading more than 90 degrees is not advised)? Also, would that arrangement need any kind of support so that the pipes and SWG aren't just floating or are PVC pipes strong enough for that weight?

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And you should label your plumbing as you determine which is what.

You can generally get better answers to your questions if you have a proper signature. Use mine as an example, fill in as much as you can. Here:

Your SWG plumbing configuration will be determined first by its installation instructions. Some want to be horizontal, some vertical, some either. And sometimes the space available for it determines which is best. And if you can push on a PVC pipe with your finger and it flexes some, then yes, it needs support. I saw one of these at my hardware store just yesterday, or you can make one yourself by slicing off part of a tee fitting and gluing a pipe from it to the ground. That's what I did. I used two tees, one cut apart for the top, tucked under the pipe I needed to support, then a length of PVC, then another tee at the bottom so the PVC pipe wouldn't sink into the dirt. I wanted it to be all PVC, because I don't need any more rusting metal brackets or nuts and bolts on my pad!

Regarding the 180, sure less curves in the road is best, but you have a simple system with very few elbows as it is. A couple more 90s and 45s will be fine. Some SWGs (like mine) want a straight run of pipe before them, so that the internal flow switch is not affected by turbulence coming out of a 90 too close to the SWG's inlet. Mind that. See if the brand you get mentions that in its instructions.

Also, if mounted vertically, the SWG will probably have a right-side-up. Some don't want to be up-side-down. Something else to check on in the instructions.

Pas_pool said:

Can you explain why if I turn the main drain where you have it in the picture it is better?

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The drains dont circulate the water any better than the skimmers do and aren't needed. Skimming on the other hand makes a huge difference in day to day operations so put most of the suction from the skimmers so they do their job better.

Pas_pool said:

And what would it mean it the lever was turned in line with the tubing to the right or left?

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Go look at the valve when you're free and see the label that says closed. Turn that label towards whatever you want to close. Or 50/50 halfway or infinite possibilities between them like mostly closed 10/90.

HermanTX said:

With a CYA of 60, the SLAM FC level should be 24ppm. This needs to be maintained by testing every 4-5 hrs and topping up FC back to the SLAM level.
Thanks for posting your test results.
Your CH is high but is manageable. .

If you vacuum to waste then that will lower CYA and CH. Do you have a main drain? Ensure that is the only suction as you will drain below the skimmers.
Lowering the CYA will then lower your FC level for SLAM.

Removing as much algae by vacuum or by scooping it out is helpful.

Please read the document
SLAM Process

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Thanks for your response. I have already read the SLAM process, and will continue to review it as I near the day that I begin that process.

As far as vacuum to waste, if there are specific brands that are preferred, it would greatly help me to know. I haven't done that before, so I'm not certain what to buy and what the components are.

mas985 said:

Run at full speed and see if the air disappears.

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It doesn't go away at full speed. The only time I've seen it be full is when I have the booster pump running with the cleaner. It looks perfectly normal at that point. When I turn off the booster and take the cleaner out the pot starts to get air back in it over a few hours.
FWIW I see a fair amount of air coming out of the tail on the 280 for the first few minutes of running. I suppose that could be the air that was in the pot.

I'm new, and I need your help,bear with me. My ground is being leveled this weekend, electricity has been ran underground to a storage building (which will be beside my pool).
Here is my question, and it's a big one. Pictures would be extremely helpful. I'm looking for help (pic's), ideas, comments on the layout of my Pump, SWG, and Heater.
I want to be able to give my electrician something to go by. Our County inspector will also check things out before he signs off on it.
Order of installation? Timers? Everything is still in the box in my garage and the Grandkids are pumped.
This is what I have; 12'x24'x54" AG Saltwater Titan Oval Pool, 12'x24'x54" Oval Uni-Bead Beach Haven Liner - 40 Gauge, AquaPro High Pro DE72 D.E. Filter System 2-HP 2-Speed Pump, Hayward Aqua Trol RJ Salt Chlorine Generator System, Lacus Wide-Mouth Above Ground Thru-Wall Skimmer & Return Fitting.
I'm ordering a Heater this week, I'm contemplating an Armstrong 35,000 BTU Inverter Heat Pump, 9000 Gallons, with a WiFi Capable timer.- (open to ideas).
I appreciate all of you time and any expertise that you can/will share.
Don

DrewPool said:

I have a kidney shaped pool in the Northeast US and spend a ton of money with my electric heater in the spring and fall. I am looking to buy a solar cover and had a few questions for those users who currently use them.

1. Where did you buy your solar cover from? I see price ranges from 70 to 250.
2. What features do I want to look for in a solar cover?
3. How does skimming work when the cover is on, I usually run my pool 24x7 at a slow speed. Would I turn it off when I put the cover on?
4. I see people are for an against using the reel to pull the cover off, any tips or suggestions?
5. Anything I didn't ask that I should have?

Thanks!

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1. Amazon - mostly because the shipping works out cheaper. My last one was 'Sun2Solar'
2. They are all pretty much the same - Thickness does not necessarily translate into durability.
3. Its surprising how much stuff still makes it to the skimmer even with the cover on
4. Reel makes life easier in my opinion - especially for bigger pools/covers
5. Warranties are somewhat sketchy - most are pro-rated and you pay shipping - that said, I did have a warranty claim where the cover was splitting (not on a seam) and they sent me a brand-new cover for like $19.