add 1.5" unions to be able to easily remove filter

You look to be jammed-up in a corner there. If it were me, I'd look at redoing that entire top line. Are you not able to bring it out & away a bit (towards the camera)? If so, I would start over from the pump MPV port back to that vertical line should give you enough room for the union.

But now something else caught my eye. It looks like your flow switch in pointed towards the pump MPV on the Inlet line right? If so, that's not right either. The SWG and flow switch should be on the outlet line, the last thing before going back into the ground to the pool. So if I'm seeing this correctly, the flow switch should be removed from that spot which would also give you more room on that inlet line.

Help with Hayward C3025 Pool Filter Cartridge Fitment Issue

Good morning. Still having that same awkward fitting issue? Yes, many of us use generic carts to replace the expensive, name-brand carts. While the advertisement "should" be compatible and state which make/model cart it was designed to replace, there might be some slight variances. They are generic after all and only as good as the company's QC processes. Sometimes it's good to take measurements of your OEM cart to compare to what they show online with the generic model.

Do you still feel like something in the filter housing was damaged? Did you push down so hard that you are concerned you might have cracked a lower manifold or something? Did you try a little pool lube on the mating surfaces to help it slide into place?

Hi. I'm a noob to the forum and I have a non-chlorine shock question or 10

Hi
I'm worried I'm in the wrong place here but I really appreciate this forum and wanted to join and hopefully even contribute knowledge as I accumulate it. I work in the pool industry and I am currently working as a plantroom opperator at an indoor swim school just to bulk up my hours as a swim instructor/coach(no CYA).
We have UV and Ozone as secondary disinfection but they're not enough to consistent ennough to keep CCL down below 0.2ppm. A third party company does checks of the expensive automated dosing equipment we rent from them and gives us water quality advice monthly but have not advised us on how regularly to shock dose with chlorine or how to achieve this elusive <0.2 ppm CCL we aspire to achieve. So I started researching and found myself here. I'm hoping to not rely so heavily on this third party company so much and stretch the friendship.

So I have had to shock dose a couple of times, got information from questionable sources that recommended specific concentration of FCL to get the water to. I know this is wrong now and I add a bit more liquid chlorine than is required to achieve 10 x CCL. Often when I come back in the morning to retest CCL is not nearly as low as I expect it to be.

Recently the UV and Ozone both went off due to electrical problems and CCL ended up at 1.8ppm one night after classes. I added more than 10L of 12.5% liquid chlorine to this 75,000L pool to get FCL to roughly 20ppm. pH was 7.43, Alkalinity 113 (a bit high). I added some acid just to be safe making sure pH didn't go over 7.6. Still I came back in the morning and the reaction seemed incomplete when I got a reading of FCL 3.10, TCL 4.05, pH7.38, ALK 116. Any idea what went wrong there?

So I panick and don't want classes cancelled on my watch, go to the nearest pool store that was open at that early hour and get a non-chlorine shock. It was Sodium Carbonate Peroxyhydrate (sodium percarbonate). I even got on the phone to the third party company just quickly to ask if they knew any reason why I shouldn't use it. It says it lowers CCL and you can swim 20 minutes after adding it. They said it was fine. So I followed the instructions carefully and it just seemingly ate all FCL and CCL. Not the desired effect for a commercial pool where I needed to verify that FCL is still above 1 ppm.

I'm repeating the process 4 days later because CCL was again over 0.5ppm despit UV and Ozone being back on, and researching this chemical. So far I've found that it's and oxidant similar to Potassium Monopersulphate so it interferes with DPD tests and I am getting higher TCL and CCL. What I don't understand is why I am not getting a FCL reading on either my Palintests or on the computer out the back. Honestly I don't know how the computer out the back works ouside of water flows over it and it gives me a live FCL reading. It's called Waterlink. So what is this chemical doing? Is it bleaching the DPD 1 but not the DPD 3 somehow? Somewhere I read these chemicals can result in higher chlorine demand so how often if at all should I use it? and/or general thoughts?

So many questions and so much frustration. Sorry for the word vomit.
Thanks for reading this maniacally written story from an undertrianed, undervalued plantroom opperator, feeling the pressure.

Another Mastertemp 400 question ....

The next question is why did the F1/F2 Fenwal motor contacts fail? Possibilities include, manufacturing defect, wear and tear or motor bearings starting to seize causing the motor to pull constant over amperage. It would be best to check the amp draw on the motor when installing a new Fenwal. The motor nameplate should list either FLA or RLA for full load amps or running load amps. On start up the amp draw will briefly read 5-6 times this amp listing (for less than a second or two) before settling down to just under the listed rating. If the amp draw stays above the listed rating you would also need to replace the motor to prevent damage to the motor contacts of the new Fenwal.

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CCP 520 Pool Clamp Bolt or Nut Stripped - What now for Chlorine?

eh, leave it on. The electricity cost is minimal.
Add chlorine to maintain your FC for your CYA. Once, or 3-4x per day likely doesn't matter. Again, any FC up to SLAM level is safe.
Link-->FC/CYA Levels
I'd raise to Slam level and just check a couple times a day, and keep it between in range for your CYA and SLAM level.
Thanks so very much!!

CCP 520 Pool Clamp Bolt or Nut Stripped - What now for Chlorine?

eh, leave it on. The electricity cost is minimal.
Add chlorine to maintain your FC for your CYA. Once, or 3-4x per day likely doesn't matter. Again, any FC up to SLAM level is safe.
Link-->FC/CYA Levels
I'd raise to Slam level and just check a couple times a day, and keep it between in range for your CYA and SLAM level.
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Pool Math vs SWG Recommendations

That’s great, you guys think of everything! Yes, I did, thanks! I put in 25 KG, but more is recommended. Fortunately,I do believe there has been a reduction in sediment collecting on the tiles and bottom. I will know better when I vacuum again. However, I am still struggling with high pH, which I think might have something to do with the 4m drop from the pool to the gutter. From my understanding, water features like this aerate the water, causing the pH to rise. Is there anything else I can do other than adding HCl every other day or so?

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CCP 520 Pool Clamp Bolt or Nut Stripped - What now for Chlorine?

Get a sump pump at lowes. Get one with a 12' cord (to keep away from pool).
Put it in a bucket (to protect pool surface), drop it in the pool, turn it on.
Pour liquid chlorine in, right on top of the roiling water from the sump. It will mix rapidly.
The buffering system in a pool is pretty good, chlorine will disburse just fine.
Remember, FC up to SLAM level is just fine for people, pool and equipment, so keeping your FC up should be fine.

Even if you don't have a sump, pour a bit of chlorine in, brush a bunch, pour a bit more, brush a bunch...Brush the pool and get water moving...it will be fine.
Thank you! How long/often should I run the sump pump? Should I add Chlorine once a day or more often?

Sand Filter Leaking from Backwash Port Even after Key Replacement

Yeah, it’s been operational for a few years without an issue. The leak just started. The way the unions are, it would be impossible to reinstall incorrectly. On the waste line, there is a diverter valve so I can send it down a hard pipe to the back drainage culvert or attach a fire hose to the pipe stub to get it out to the front. Just options if one location is saturated because of rain.
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CCP 520 Pool Clamp Bolt or Nut Stripped - What now for Chlorine?

Get a sump pump at lowes. Get one with a 12' cord (to keep away from pool).
Put it in a bucket (to protect pool surface), drop it in the pool, turn it on.
Pour liquid chlorine in, right on top of the roiling water from the sump. It will mix rapidly.
The buffering system in a pool is pretty good, chlorine will disburse just fine.
Remember, FC up to SLAM level is just fine for people, pool and equipment, so keeping your FC up should be fine.

Even if you don't have a sump, pour a bit of chlorine in, brush a bunch, pour a bit more, brush a bunch...Brush the pool and get water moving...it will be fine.

CCP 520 Pool Clamp Bolt or Nut Stripped - What now for Chlorine?

Tonight I cleaned my filters and attempted to tighten the filter body clamp on my Clean and Clear Filter housing, but the t-bolt and/or nut is stripped and will not tighten. After many attempts, I drove to Lowe's to try and find a temporary replacement nut at Lowe's but to no avail (they were completely out of one that might fit the clamp's t-bolt). I have ordered an aftermarket clamp on amazon, but now my worry is what do I do to keep my chlorine from dipping too low until the part arrives sometime Sunday. I have a SWG that usually keeps my chlorine at good levels. In the meantime, what is the best way to circulate liquid chlorine in my pool until I turn my pump back on (hopefully Sunday)?

Pump Motor Replacement HP Recommendation

You have a WFE-6 pump.
You need to match the impellor and diffuser to the HP of the motor.
You cannot put a larger impeller on the smaller motor, but you can put a smaller impellor on a larger motor.
The 2hp impeller is #073130, making it a WFE-8
The 3hp impeller is #073131, making it a WFE-12
You need to change the diffuser to #5074 for 2 HP or #5072 for 3 HP

I'm looking at Nidec Neptune motors and am wondering if I should go with the 2.7 THP or the 3.45 THP since it shows a higher efficiency.
The likely best solution is to use the Nidec Neptune 2.25 with the 2hp impeller (#073130) and diffuser (#5074).
@1poolman1 can confirm.

Adding baking soda low tA

What does the box say your salt concentration is? While the pool store number for salt is amazingly precise, the accuracy is too high, but not that far off from your own test. How old is your salt cell? Having it complain about low salt, when the level isn't low may be a sign that it needs to be replaced. Has it ever been cleaned? If with acid, how many times (Acid can greatly shorten the cell life)?
A TC-15 is a pretty small cell for the size of your pool, so it may have worked very hard over the time it has been there.

We never trust what the box says for salt, but if it is really far off, that is another clue that something may be amiss.

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