Check the amp draw on the nameplate and depending on the motor wiring and use a thinner gauge wire than the motor wiring for the jumper to prevent possible damage to the motor wiring in case the amp draw is excessively high.

Check fault code history and run service diagnostic

Jimrahbe said:

jb,

I'd want to get some Liquid Chlorine in the water first, but it will burn off pretty quickly as your CYA should be pretty low... I'd add enough CYA to get you up to 30 ppm or so.

It will take a couple of days for the CYA to start showing up in your tests.

Then start getting your pH in the 7's and your CH up if too low..

The most important part, in my mind, is to keep your FC at the target range for your CYA, no matter what the CYA is right now. And as you slowly add any new CYA..

FC/CYA Levels

Thanks

Jim R

Click to expand...

Jimrahbe said:

jb,

I'd want to get some Liquid Chlorine in the water first, but it will burn off pretty quickly as your CYA should be pretty low... I'd add enough CYA to get you up to 30 ppm or so.

It will take a couple of days for the CYA to start showing up in your tests.

Then start getting your pH in the 7's and your CH up if too low..

The most important part, in my mind, is to keep your FC at the target range for your CYA, no matter what the CYA is right now. And as you slowly add any new CYA..

FC/CYA Levels

Thanks

Jim R.

Click to expand...

I drained almost all last night Maybe 6inches left in the deepest spot. Cya not showing up so assuming I accomplished lowering it. Pool math says 3.5 pounds but thinking I’ll start at 3pounds cya then remeasure in a couple days. Just added about a quart of acid to get ph in the 7s . I was shocked to see Ch was 175. San Antonio has very hard water. Pool math says 41 pounds of calcium chloride. Does this sound correct? Should I retest this again after CYA additions? TA very high at 200 as well. Hoping acid addition brings that down some. Any advice is appreciated!

JamesW said:

Filter pressure at different speeds?

Click to expand...

Filter pressure varies maybe 10 PSI at the various speeds, at low flows it’s around 5 PSI and going up to 15 when priming or running the pump at high speeds (2500+ RPM)

ajw22 said:

You will also lose CYA and CH with the drain. So check your CYA level after the fill and add stabilizer as needed.

Click to expand...

Yup. Thanks

ajw22 said:

Welcome to TFP.



Yup, that can do it.

The Intellichor Installation Manual says - For best flow sensing, provide at least 12"-18" of straight pipe in front of the cell inlet.

That check valve is not needed with a SWG. It is leftover from when tablet chlorinators were used.

If I were you I would remove the check valve cover, remove the spring and flapper, and replace the cover. See what difference it makes.

Your SWG should get flow on at around 1800 - 2000 RPM.

Click to expand...

I was thinking about giving this a try as well. Why does the SWG not require a check valve to prevent water from flowing back into the heater? I understand the cell won’t generate chlorine at low/no flow conditions, but the water sitting in the cell when pump stops could flow back into the heater? Is it just not enough chlorine present to make a big impact in terms of corrosion?

You will also lose CYA and CH with the drain. So check your CYA level after the fill and add stabilizer as needed.

You may have air in the gas line that needs to be purged.

You may have to go through ignition cycles and lockouts several times, as a bit of air is purged with each cycle until the heater gets gas.


If the ignition is unsuccessful or the flame fails during normal operation, the ignition control shuts off the gasvalve. The heater will then go through a post-purge process and attempt to establish stable combustion two additional times. If ignition is unsuccessful after three attempts, the system will lock out.

The Installation Manual says to reset the heater after a lock out:

• Turn OFF the power at the breaker for the power cycle, then turn it back ON.
• Access either the Pool or Spa mode.

A member reported that it did not work. Holding the Pool Menu and Spa, which brings up a menu to reset the latch fault, did.

How many times a day are you testing and adding chlorine?

ajw22 said:

You need to drain about 20% of your pool to lower the salt to around 3200 and lower the amps for longevity of the Aquarite circuits.

Click to expand...

Fantastic. Thanks for your help. I'm going to shut it off for now and monitor FC levels, will drain late evening and refill before hot sun hits.

If you look at the bottom of the unit, it will say what year the ic40 is. They only last 5 years. That being said, maybe its time for a new unit

You need to drain about 20% of your pool to lower the salt to around 3200 and lower the amps for longevity of the Aquarite circuits.

With an aux relay on the prologic, it's not automatic and defeats the purpose of having an auto actuating valve imo.
There is no way to do this simple thing on a prologic. Which sucks. But is what it is.
I wanted it so when the spa pump is on, the valve is set to the correct direction. And same for when its off. Automatically.

When it comes to my plumbing. Thats a whole other story. Its much more complicated than this valve setup. And i just don't have the time to lay it all out.
Simply put - the spa and pool have a shared heater but with separate pumps/filters.
The valve in question changes where the water is returned to the pool/spa.
In the direction for the pool it returns to the pool through a 8 zone caretaker99.
If the spa pump is on while the valve is in the pool direction, it sucks all water from the spa and into the pool. Emptying the spa, and eventually running the pump/filter dry.
If pool pump is on while in the spa direction it just overflows from spa into the pool. Which can cause a huge issue if my heater is set to auto. It can empty my 250g LP tank in a night.

I'm also working on an auto top off for the pool using a float switch im putting in the pools skimmer area.

Off = 31.9v/0amps/0 instant salt
Off to Auto = 25.9/7.55/4000
Auto delayed = 25.9/7.51/4000

Show us pictures of the pump and the leak area.

Checked chems this morning. Added enough CYA to bring me up to 80. Jumped in to cool off after push mowing the pool yard and again after mowing the outer yard with the tractor. Need air temps to come up just a bit for it to be comfortable to be swimming but it felt good to cool off and rinse off the dust.

--Jeff

ajw22 said:

Jacuzzi does not manufacture any of its pool equipment. They put their brand on other manufacturers' white label models.

The JSCS40 looks like the Circupool SJ model SWG.

CircuPool SJ-20 Saltwater Chlorinator for up to 20000 gallon salt water pools

www.circupool.com

O-rings are a commodity product and are generally available. I suggest you measure the O-ring size and read...

O-Rings - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Click to expand...

I checked and the o-ring I tried to replace it was for that model swg. It still leaks. Both the original and new o-rings are in good condition with no nicks, cracks or flat spots. I used pool lube when I installed. I’m at a loss as to what to do now.

Drained about 3" of water from the pool today. A series of rain storms had raised the water level to the top of the skimmer. The chemical level have all decreased a little bit. Nothing real urgent needs to be taken care of.

Right now I'm having persistently high FC levels. I keep lowering the output yet the FC is still rising. I lowered the output from 40 to 20 a little over a week ago and now I lowered it to 10% since FC went from 11 to 12.5 ppm in the last week. I'd like to see it at around 6 ppm. I may shut down the SWG for a few days.

Uhhello said:

I cycled to off, let it sit, and and back to auto. Get 7.9v and 3900 instant salt.

Click to expand...

7.9V or amps?

If that is amps you are right at the 8 amp maximum where the system will shutdown to prevent damage.

Normal amps should be in the low 6's with salinity in the low 3000's..

ajw22 said:

31.9 is the voltage, and 0.00 is the amps when the cell is in a resting state and not generating chlorine.

Report all diagnostic readings when you..

• Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
• Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
• Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.

Moving the switch from AUTO to OFF and back triggers the cell to generate, and by doing it twice, it checks the diagnostics on both cell polarities.

Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Click to expand...

Scroll up, I did that. I'll do in the order you suggested again though. Thanks.

Uhhello said:

While generating, i'm showing 4200, 76deg, 31.9, 0.00, -0.
So that doesn't look good per the manual? I'm not showing a salt calibration or amps..

Click to expand...

31.9 is the voltage, and 0.00 is the amps when the cell is in a resting state and not generating chlorine.

Report all diagnostic readings when you..

• Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
• Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
• Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.

Moving the switch from AUTO to OFF and back triggers the cell to generate, and by doing it twice, it checks the diagnostics on both cell polarities.

I have nothing to add that is of benefit to this conversation but I would like to say these discussions are why I follow TFP. Guys like @JoyfulNoise, @JamesW and @mas985 (among others) say it works, I know they've put some thought into it and can back it up with hard numbers.

I'm just here to watch and learn.

--Jeff

dereksanders said:

If so inclined, you can find plans and build your own for the cost of the lumber which will cost substantially less and provide more satisfaction.

Once I get home I’ll take a pic of mine.

Click to expand...

As promised and needs a bit of work. I keep it tarped over the winter.

I cycled to off, let it sit, and and back to auto. Get 7.9v and 3900 instant salt.

If I switch to super cholrinate i get good readings for all. I switched it back to auto, it shows a generating light and levels go back to the previous posts readings.

We let it warm to room when we first tested this spring. Now water is 78. I will try the link you said the next test. We always test inside with bright led lights

Another idea is silicone that comes in a tube. Apply it around the perimeter and squeeze it together to seal.