I am back on since 8:30 am.

So interesting observation.
Since powering on my system this spring. I noted that, when using the web interface (not the app), the interface times out and i need to relaunch it. This was new behavior for this year. The timeout for that window was rather short.

After last nights outage, the web interface has been up the entire night and into this morning.

Wondering if they did a planned systems update. If thats the case, it would be nice if they informed people.

It all depends on the quality of the heater, and the chemistry of the pool. I'm awaiting a new heater to arrive next week. Only got 25 yrs out of mine in my signature. No leaks, core is still fine, it is the rest of the unit that finally wore out - controls, rusted out cabinet, etc.

They told me the life span of a gas heater is about 5 years
My old heater was at least 10+ years old when I bought my house.
It needed some work and with the age opted to Installed a new heater and it’s going on 8-9 years
So yes, they last longer then 5 years

While @ajw22 responded with points for a variable speed pump, same logic applies for a 2 speed. Run on low, unless there is a specific need to go to high. If some of your items (SWCG, Heater, skimming) don't like the current low speed, then you are stuck a bit.

The current variable speed pumps are much more capable of saving huge amounts of energy. Google "pool pump energy calculator" and you will find several from manufacturers that will estimate optimal energy savings. Here's one:
Pool Pump Savings Calculator
Of course, they lean heavily on comparing worst to best, and don't have a lot of nuance, but still give a rough feel as to how much you can save. Payback can be in as little as 2 years. Might cost $850-$2000 (plus install, if needed), depending on whether you can (or are comfortable with) mixing brands. Many of us run on very slow 24/7, and the energy costs are really low ($20-25 per month, even with rates near yours!).

If you don't have automation of other things that need to be run, you can consider a cheaper option (~$500) of replacing just the motor on the pump with one that has 3 programmable settings (plus scheduled off times), that allow you to dial in a speed/time for each, which can realize the same cost savings. But depending on all your other items, may need other add-ons so everything plays well together. It is perhaps more DIY than you care to think about.

Start a new post if you want to pursue, and the experts here can get into the details of what choice would work the best for your pool.

The App was down for me most of yesterday afternoon but, like everyone else has said, it was back up last night but only for a while for me. This morning I can login but nothing else.
We just moved into a new house 3-weeks ago and the pool company just completed the install of the iauqua 3.0 system yesterday. So, the timing of this has been less than ideal.

Our previous house had iaqua 2.0 so I’m quite familiar with the system.

It’s helpful to read here that others are seeing issues. Otherwise I’d think it was an installation issue.

Leeboy20 said:

Thanks for making this a difficult choice everyone

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Let me make it easy on you. If you want a proven skimmer bot buy the Betta SE Plus. It’s a solid robot. It’s not perfect, but it’s a known entity.

If you want to be a little bold and try something new buy the Aiper Surfer2. Let us know how it works.

So maybe I should run slow speed for now 24/7…… I’m done with stabilizer , might add Cal Cloride in near future waiting on test reagents

easy-e said:

Great, thanks. Wasn’t sure if it could somehow damage the filter components.

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I left out not
You should not run your filter without DE as you can damage your girds

update here....just saw Monmouth Co.....I enjoyed living in Freehold for 12 years and the BRUCE influence. Good luck

my 2 cents....No, you should not run a Diatomaceous Earth (DE) pool filter without DE powder in it. Doing so can damage the filter grids and potentially lead to other problems. The grids are designed to trap the DE, not the pool water's debris. Without DE, dirt will clog the grids, causing them to become damaged and the filter to require cleaning.

blazer58 said:

You should run your filter without the correct level of DE

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Great, thanks. Wasn’t sure if it could somehow damage the filter components.

PM,

Only thing I can offer to this conversation is my recent experience with high CSI caused by pH and TA way out of range. I ran my previous pool for years and never had to clean the cell because I was meticulous to stay within TFP recommendations and within those adjust to keep my CSI slightly negative. Now I have a new pool on well water that's 230 TA. Got way out of whack due to operator (me) error and I should have known better but got so bad I had white flakes settling in the pool. I've never seen a clogged swg until now but it was packed with the stuff. Easy to clean though and I also learned that it may look clean but the sensor can still have deposits so you need to clean again to get them off. I hate over cleaning since it shortens the life of the swg but that's the price of ignoring TFP basics. I'll be doing the second cleaning today and hopefully my sensor reading will get closer. I'd just ignore it if I could and just rely on my K1766 but when the sensor indicates out of range it stops the unit from running. One thing that's also important to remember is the accuracy of the drop test is best practical and I think that's +/- 200 ppm. Your cell sensor is worse so you may actually have to run at the high end of the range on the K 1766 to stay in range even with a good sensor.

I hope this is helpful.

Chris

You should not run your filter without the correct level of DE
Edit..added not

Hayward MSP firmware update R5.1.0 has been posted; effective May 12th, for the Unified Control (OmniLogic, OmniPL, OmniHub) products.

Hayward Firmware Updates

New in this release

• Support for Sun-aware schedules
• Default filter pump schedule
  • 9:00am – 3:00pm at 50%
• Security and reliability improvements

Release Notes .docx file converted to .pdf is attached.

Thank you all for the quick response. We will try and update with the results! Appreciate the help!

There weren’t any gaskets and very minor sealant. Obviously an issue!

Yep, those are springtails, hence the name. They do jump. You need to spray the grass area where they are coming from and the deck area where they are crossing. The larger the area to spray the better.

Bifen and Acephate at the turf label rate. You should be able to spray once and be done.

Texas Splash said:

I assume you are referring to those fountain sprayers that screw directly into the return outlet port? Are you still trying to find a different method of connection?

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Yes direct connect to return eye.

You should run the pump for a reason. Consider both speed and duration if you have a VS pump and automation. Reasons for running the pump can be:

• Mix chemicals: Low speed for 1/2 hour is fine for chlorine and acid additions. Salt, calcium, and stabilizer can require more circulation at higher speeds.
• SWG: Clean filter, lower speed until cell indicates "no flow," add 200RPM and run at that speed (the +200 allows for a dirty filter), for whatever duration you need for the % output of the SWG.
• Filter: Low speed is better for filtering. Filter long enough so you are happy with the water.
• Skim: Run the lowest speed that get you sufficient skimming. Run for long enough to get the results you want.
• Heater: Run at the speed that gives you enough flow for the heater and run for the duration you need to heat.
• Vacuum: sufficient RPM to operate the vacuum for as long as necessary to clean satisfactorily.

Many members, with VS pumps and an SWG, like to run our pump 24/7 at low speed to add some chlorine continuously to the water.

If you have an In Floor Cleaning Systems, your pump must run much longer at higher speeds.

poolmom21 said:

And made the mistake of going off the reading on the system instead of testing. I know I know if mistake

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If thats the worst thing that happened yesterday, we ALL got off lucky.


The 3800 that you're testing is great and the cell is saying its low. Let's look into the sensor thats off, not drain to make the 'low salt' lower.

Smart,

The only additional info I can add is to encourage you hang in there. Trouble-shooting these heaters can be frustrating. And it's not just Jandy they all use very similar (identical in some places) controls. It's also very beneficial to trouble-shoot as you are doing to logically find the fault. Many owner come here after replacing many of the parts at very high cost with little or no investigation. Usually the more difficult issues are related to Flame Sense technology. Yours is likely connections, sensor, or board. I'm clearly not up to date with this sensor but if there's a way to emulate a "safe" state you might be able to try that. Many sensors can be bypassed but quite a few are more complex. This sensor is probably a variable resistor temp sensor and you'd have to find out the resistance to put in to test it. The problem with documenting this by the manufacturer is there are, I'll say this kindly "not so smart" DIYers that will leave it in this test instead of repairing it. Manufacturers can't afford the liability this causes. You're dealing with an area of safety protection on this heater that's very serious business. I think it's very likely the problem is one of the items @JamesW has highlighted plus connections. So the approach I'd use is to double check all connections in the system first. Then test the resistance of the old temp sensor and the new one. If they're close check them both in very hot water. This would indicate to me they're likely good and point toward the board as @JamesW indicates. You really have to gut it out yourself because most authorized repair technicians will only tell you you need to replace the unit. When I looked at the cost of replacing the parts even if I replace a few that were not really the cause it was way cheaper than buying a new heater.

Let me lastly ask, did you by chance have a lightning strike recently? If so, that's a whole different ballgame and still recoverable though.

Chris

Donldson said:

Make sure to check the expiration dates on the reagents as soon as you open it. Had a handful of problems with some of the Amazon sellers in the past selling old kits.

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Got the kit yesterday. All dates are either 2026 or 2027.