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Waterway Champions pump, shaft seal replaced but still leaking

I opened the pool myself for the first time this year, only to find the pump (Waterway Champs 110) was leaking between the pump housing and the motor.

A quick search shows that the likely suspect is the shaft seal, which did look terrible upon opening the pump up. I followed what is suggested here to replace the seal: no touching the white ceramic or the black carbon graphite(? is it ?); used dish soap to lubricate the metal housing of the white ceramic, then use a PVC coupling to knock this thing into the pump seal plate; used dish soap to lubricate the part of the impeller where the rubber of the black half touches and then pressed it in using 3/4 in coupling; made sure the two mating surface was clean.

Over the last two days, I went through 3 sets of shaft seals (Waterway 319-3100B OEM from local pool store that built my pool). It was leaking just a tiny little bit after the first attempt. But the OCD in me wanted to get it 100% right. The next two attempts actually made it worse.

I also changed the face plate gasket, the impeller. Other parts looked okay to me. This is driving me nuts... I must have taken this apart and assembled back on 10 times over the last two days. Can anyone help me? I am very desperate...

I have two guesses: 1. I used the old impeller washer (part 11 in this link: Waterway Champion 56-Frame Pump Parts - INYOPools.com), which looks pretty worn, but pool store doesn't have it: they said this doesn't create watertight seal anyway; I tried my best to get a washer that looks like this one in Home Depot and apparently it didn't work. 2. There is an "o-ring looking" thing at the back of the diffuser (see pic) that looks quite worn. But local store doesn't carry it and I don't think this is supposed to seal anything.

For the impeller washer, I have an Amazon order coming in. For the diffuser, if you guys agree this is not the problem, I won't replace it as it is quite expensive.

Am I missing anything?

In the meantime, can I run the pump while it is dripping? It drips like 1 drop/sec on start-up and then it looks more like it's slowly seeping water, and I don't actually see water dripping, but rather the concrete slab getting wet. The leaking gets better if I shut down the main drain possibly because the PSI drops in the filter housing. Is there any downside to shutting off the main drain completely?

I am very sorry for this long post. One last request: if anyone can identify the attached cartridge filter unit for me, it is much appreciated. It is not "Outdoor Pro"... Says "Waterway plastics", but no model number and I don't see any one they currently sell that look anything like mine.

Many thanks!!

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Newbie looking for help pentair pump and generator

- intelliflo vrble spd 354605 pump
This is not a valid model number. There should be a label on the pump basket that list part#, Serial # and manufactured date. Take a pic an post that.
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rj-60 generator ( I am flexible regarding this)
What is the size of your pool in gallons?
Ink ow the pump should be able to trigger it, but :

- where does the power come from? I keep seeing things like the load side of the pump, what does this mean?
You need to know what service you have 115v or 230v. Most breakers will be double if 230, single if 115. If we get the model number we can probably tell. Post a picture of the breaker to the pump.
- How would I wire in the anode?
You don't need an anode. Forget about it.
- do I need anything else?
Maybe, post up the other stuff we asked for.
- I assume the generator is connected after the pump before the filter or on the filter output?
SWG should be the LAST thing before returning to the pool.
Thank you, this kinda sounds like the intellichlor system, would than be best to be running straight of my existing pump and would be most painless to install if I see this right.
IF your pump can control SWG On/Off, which I doubt, then it doesn't matter brand of SWG.

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New Construction Design Feedback

Welcome to TFP.
Very interesting design. I like the lap pool concept.
Suggestion is to make the minimum dept 4ft rather than 3.5Ft. Especially since the other half of the VB court is in 5ft of water.

What is the prevailing wind direction? If unknown - Suggestion is to put skimmers on the long wall and put all returns on the opposing wall including the area where the steps are. This way, all water is pushed to the skimmers. Since that long wall is over 60 ft, consider putting a 3rd skimmer. Also it is recommended that each skimmer be an independent line back to the equipment pad. This provides better control of skimming action. The increase cost of PVC is minimal.

Smart to plumb an additional line for either a suction side or pressure side cleaner. You may not need it if you go with a robot cleaner but it is good to have that option.

Equipment.
Jandy is fine. Pentair and Hayward are the 2 other major suppliers.

Suggestion to increase to 2.7hp pump from the 1.85hp. You will be able to run the larger HP pump at a lower speed and move the same amount of water. The advantages are the pump at low speed uses less energy and is also quieter.

The 580 sq ft cartridge filter is excellent.

We do not endorse the use of puck chlorinators. Suggestion is to use liquid chlorine or a saltwater chlorine generator (SWCG). In the long run either will provide better sanitation and clearer water.

You will not have any automation except for the IQ system on the pump. That is basic automation and may be all you need since you have no water features, spa, etc. I am not familiar with Pool Attendent. However, it is recommended to test your own pool water using a good test kit . See
Test Kits Compared

A natural gas heater is the most common in Houston, it does heat more quickly and would be ideal if you had a spa because you want that to be heated fast. A heat pump is a good choice, just understand it will take a long time to raise the temperature. For example, I had a 15k gal pool in Houston (Katy) and it took 10 hrs with a 400k btu natural gas heater to raise the temperature. So expect a longer duration for your nearly 23k gal pool.

Having 1 light on the far left looks ok with the low voltage lights in the opposite end and in the entrance area.

Please read
Pool Care Basics
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New member trying to break old pool store habits and find an inexplicable source of copper...

So you understand what we are doing.

pH below 7, is not good for the pool. pH of 7, I might start you on the SLAM, but your yellow is a little to light for my liking. Like you said below 7. Good read.

When TA is higher, like 80 or above, pH will rise on its own.
But, your TA is 60, on the low end. It might take a while for pH to rise, and I don't want your pool to endure low pH during SLAM.

Baking soda raises TA without raising pH.
Borax raises pH, and adds a little TA.
Washing soda would raise both TA and pH.
I was just looking for alternatives you had we could work with.

Let's get pH up a bit so you can start slam. Borax will do that.

When we get you fixed up, you should RARELY have to use Borax, or baking soda, and likely NEVER need washing soda. It was only for purposes of this situation.
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Newbie looking for help pentair pump and generator

Thank you, living in california, energy is rather pricey and way more than 20$ a month. I pay about 30c per kWH and the pump uses 831w a hour. So running it 24h, would be more about ~$7 a day. So running it 24h a day is not an option.

Regarding the anode, I though you are supposed to have it, to protect other metal parts, etc

Newbie looking for help pentair pump and generator

Thank you, this kinda sounds like the intellichlor system, would than be best to be running straight of my existing pump and would be most painless to install if I see this right.

This kit should be basically contain everything I need, besides some PVC cement and pipes.

60k gallon intelli chlor kit

I tend to run the pump about 8h every nigh at the middle speed.

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Filter