Welcome to TFP.

Cause chemical problems where?

Your tablet chlorinator is contaminated and I would not use it for any tablets anymore.

Use a floater for any tabs in the future.

Spa OFF, I jumped F1 and F2 directly after disconnecting them from the Fenwal.
Blower started immediately, no issues, ran fine.

- I think that the motor itself is ok.
- All power leads to the motor are intact.
- I have 2 PCBs that are yielding the same result of Service Heater (AFS), and I've verified that the blower is functional
- No other codes or warning less on the back of the board

- I'm leaning towards a control issue, maybe the Fenwal, so I'll look at those checks.
- I need to recheck that the F1-F2 relay is indeed closing when Spa ON.
- Also re-check for the various 24v readings as outlined before. The heart of this is the 24v transformer, as mentioned I've gotten readings of 27v which I think is ok, indicating functioning transformer.

DanielleEllison said:

Yes, copper is bad but dang is it magic

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Tell us what you added.

Yes, copper is bad but dang is it magic

slavie said:

Thank you! That cleared up the flo message! Beyond amazing! Wow!

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Thank you! That cleared up the flo message! Beyond amazing! Wow!

pjt said:

What specific test kit are you using?

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TF-Pro

pjt said:

Assuming you're using a recommended test kit, are you continuing to add drops until there's no additional color change? It typically takes ~3 more drops after the initial color change.

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I see one drop making it starting to become red but mostly green. Another drop makes it almost colorless. And then I do another drop when the entire container becomes red. (I’m using the magnetic stirrer). So I think I’m doing it according to the TF-Pro’s instructions - but once it’s all red I never put another drop.

pjt said:

Where are you in Texas? What's the TA of your fill water?

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Cedar Park, just north of Austin.
My autofill float valve broke so I turned of the fill water in the past couple of weeks - so I don’t think that’s the source of my issues..?

JamesW said:

Don't let the pH go over 8.3.

Show your pH test as I suspect that you are probably reading it higher than actual.

Maybe get a pH meter to be sure.

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Agree it’s hard to read, but when it’s 7.2-7.5 after lowing it I can clearly tell. And a day later when it’s 7.8 I can tell. But once it goes purple/pink it’s hard to tell just how much above 8 it is. I wish there was an accurate drop test for that. Any recommended pH meters?

PoolStored said:

CSI is -1.25 if pH is 8. CSI is -.95 if pH is 7.2...OP is no where close to 0. This is assuming salt is 0, which is not likely.

OP should test and report salt with a Taylor K-1766.

With 1000ppm Salt (reasonable), OP's CSI is -.1, at pH 7.8.

Again, even with a reasonable salt level, and a TA of 60, OP should not be driving pH down to the low 7s. Let it be around 7.8 - 8.0. Driving pH down so low is causing the pH rise.

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Can the TF-Pro make that test or do I need another kit? (I’m don’t have an SWG)

JamesW said:

PoolMath

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I am using and loving it. Also did the subscription so I can track all the measurements.

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So if I recap - you’re recommending I increase my TA to 50-60, get a pH meters, and let it hover around 7.8-8 and see if it stays there reasonably.
Also - I should compute my CSI score? (Never did that before).

ajw22 said:

There are a lot of ways you can kludge together some automation.

I would install a Pentair IntelliCenter that meets all your needs and would be much less integration work.

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Thanks! This is the route I plan to go... found one on Ebay. appreciate the response.

I should mention that springtails do not fly. They crawl. They have to be getting into your pool somehow. When it warms up a bit, look very closely on the deck and you should see where they are coming from. You might have to be on your hands and knees, they are very small.

Thank you all so much. Will read up and look at the links. Much appreciated. Dang pests.

Is the calcium hardness increasing on its own?

What is the salinity?

What is the water temperature?

Are you getting plaster aggregate on the floor?

Clear the error and see what happens...

Some follow up ... went with the Blue Wave mesh winter cover for my 20x40 in-ground.
Fit really nice, color looks great, and held up perfectly over the winter.

ok everyone thank you again for the advice. Here is where I am at. I got the TF-pro test kit and I have been while waiting putting in 5ppm liquid chlorine in to the pool at night and running the filter 24/7. I have pulled out all of the trichlor tabs I had in the chlorinator and had already shut it off. The water is clear which happened a day after I drained 50% of the water and filled with fresh water. it has been clear for 3 days now.
here are my morning test results:
Temp - 77
FC - 1.5
CC - .5
PH - 7.3 (maybe 7.4)
TA - 110
CH - 75
CYA - 80

I already know I will need to start taking more water out of the pool to reduce CYA as that is probably binding up all of my FC. I thought instead of one big change (I have already paid for filling up the pool with about 7,000 gallons) that I would drain 12" which is about 3,600 gallons and refill and then wait a day and do that again. if my math is correct that would bring me to a CYA (I will test each time) to 40 (20 CYA theoretically each drain.

Thoughts?

@YippeeSkippy
Hi Maddie - I'm a new pool owner (2 months in) and luckily haven't had any chemical issues yet. We went with a chlorine pool (with Nature2 mineral system) knowing/thinking we could DIY upgrade to salt if we wanted to later. The part of you spending no more than $150 on pool water care per year stood out to me! I noticed you only mentioned liquid chlorine and test kit refills. Do you not have to manage ALK, PH, Harness, etc. with a salt pool? I find myself buying muriatic acid more than anything.

dereksanders said:

If so inclined, you can find plans and build your own for the cost of the lumber which will cost substantially less and provide more satisfaction.

Once I get home I’ll take a pic of mine.

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I’m much too lazy for that.

My son works with an electrician. He did the wiring.

Show us pictures of the wiring for the flow switch you did.

With CC =1 Follow the SLAM process. Link-->SLAM Process