samrunyan5 said:

Thanks for the reply! I do have a heater. It is about 20 years old, Hayward H150. Minimum recommended is 7.2 from this very old user manual I found.

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Put in a Heater Bypass - Further Reading to protect the heater while you clear the scale.

Understand that calcium scale in the heat exchanger protects it and is a benefit. You want a layer of protective calcium in the heater. So what you do to rid the pool of scale goes the wrong way for the heater.

PoolStored said:

Better to leave the cover off and let the pool breathe during SLAM. The exposure to UV also helps in removing any buildup of cc's you might have.

How did CYA change? There is no new test logged. What additional 10 CYA?

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Monday calculated and added 8lbs of dry acid to achieve a CYA of 30 in a 28k gallon pool.
Tuesday nights test resulted in 40 CYA in my now 22k gallon pool.

ldh_14 said:

yes for my cya it says FC 13, typically then adding 3.5 gallons 10% liquid chlorine since Monday. Ive gone through 18 gal which seems crazy!

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I've actually wondered about pool volume. Not sure how to calculate. pool company told us 30k when built in 2022.

HermanTX said:

On the PM app, on the FC icon, do you switch on the SLAM mode? That will give you the higher SLAM level for FC.
If you add LC per the recommendation it should get close to the targeted FC level - unless the LC is old (degraded) or your pool volume is slightly off.

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yes for my cya it says FC 13, typically then adding 3.5 gallons 10% liquid chlorine since Monday. Ive gone through 18 gal which seems crazy!

mhk5042 said:

I filled the cya tube all the way to the top and that’s the only way the black dot disappeared so I’m guessing I’m around 20 or less than that.

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Go to this link and print out the instructions. Having a hard copy helps. Link-->SLAM Process
Add 20ppm of CYA, use the sock method.
Once the CYA is in the pool, start the slam. Target is 12.
After 30 minutes, start squeezing the sock.

s0cr4t1c said:

That language is on the website. Not on the box or display in my local store.

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The % was eveidentally on the bottle. We recommend to always check every label on every chemical added. Even if its 'your brand'. Good job there.

s0cr4t1c said:

whoever keeps changing my thread title please stop.

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I didn't, but if a Mod edits you per the rules, they're just trying to help make sure the rules are followed.

Just now, I did edit the title to be less rant-y as per rule # 4

4. No strongly positive or negative posts about a product or company are permitted from members with little involvement on the forum. We simply cannot determine the accuracy of your post. Further, any post for the sole reason of defaming another party or presenting only your side of a disagreement will be deleted without notice.

Kaptain said:

Does pool water circulate better with the cover off?

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Better to leave the cover off and let the pool breathe during SLAM. The exposure to UV also helps in removing any buildup of cc's you might have.

How did CYA change? There is no new test logged. What additional 10 CYA?

kbranford said:

Ordered k2006c. Will be here Friday.

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Make sure to check the expiration dates on the reagents as soon as you open it. Had a handful of problems with some of the Amazon sellers in the past selling old kits.

sande005 said:

Does actual Salt (NaCl) content need to be taken into account? The 'Draining" wiki didn't mention it.

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Included in TDS.

Tkkaring said:

wondering when I should add stabilizer to bring up the CYA

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Right away once you can get a reliable baseline in full overhead sun. Count it as added as soon as its soaking.

Tkkaring said:

Also when should I be concerned with PH, TA, all other tests?

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Test them up and report back.

ajw22 said:

Do you have a heater that can be damaged by low pH?

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Thanks for the reply! I do have a heater. It is about 20 years old, Hayward H150. Minimum recommended is 7.2 from this very old user manual I found.

Feels it could be the manifold since it's mechanical and the rubber band test worked it's not the tri sensor. Having company come out tomorrow to get to the bottom of it since the pressure is crazy and rather have the experts remedy it.

Ordered k2006c. Will be here Friday.

Okay last night at 10pm the FC was at 11.5 and CC at 1.

This morning at 9am the FC was at 4.5 and CC at .5.

I filled the cya tube all the way to the top and that’s the only way the black dot disappeared so I’m guessing I’m around 20 or less than that.

Is it safe to add chems to increase cya to 30 now or should I wait?

I was at FC 11 and CC 1.0 at 4:30 this morning. Pool math said to add 141oz of LC to target FC 16. My initial SLAM level was 12 but with the additional 10 CYA it now calculates to 16.
Poured in 141oz and waited 30 minutes.
FC is now 20 and CC 1.0. This is with my volume set to 22k
I really do not trust this reading because I only pulled back the cover enough to add LC over the shallow end return. Does pool water circulate better with the cover off?

Newdude said:

The description says less fumes in the first sentence. Less / low / no fumes is my walkaway trigger. The same if it says green or eco.

Most of them hide the % at that point too so nobody knows better. The MSDS often says '10% - 30%'. Im sure they give us 3X as much out of the goodness of their hearts.

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That language is on the website. Not on the box or display in my local store.

Also, whoever keeps changing my thread title please stop. I didn’t post here to ask a question. I posted to warn forum members who may be in the habit of buying MA at Lowe’s that they’ve deceptively swapped products.

When you can pass the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test and CC less than 1 the SLAM Process is complete.

I would run your FC hot at half SLAM level while cleaning the scale from the floor.

Do you have a heater that can be damaged by low pH?

Jimrahbe said:

What problem will this solve??

I see no reason that you can't do what you want, but not sure it will help in any way..

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Better circulation I'd expect. Right now I'm limited to one return in the corner so I was thinking of placing another in the opposite corner to get some rotation in the pool.

TinFoilHat said:

You'll find that you hardly get any flow, if any, from your long run of hose/pipe teed off another pipe.

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Intertesting. I'd be teeing off of a 2" pipe and routing 1" around the pool.

So for an update, I was able to find a day to drain and am refilled and clear, not sparkly though, which was my issue most of last year. I am holding at 10ppm or just above for last few days....wondering when I should add stabilizer to bring up the CYA? Also when should I be concerned with PH, TA, all other tests? CC is .5. I lost 3ppm two nights ago and 2 ppm last night in OCLT.

Texas Splash said:

Correct. It's somewhere around that new (Lower) waterline where it stopped falling.

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Thanks, now that the cover is off, the search begins.