Leaking through the vent is typically an indication that the heat exchanger is leaking. That is usually caused by chemicals corroding the heat exchanger or the water velocity being to high and mechanically damaging the exchanger or the exchanger is not properly or adequately engineered for the job. You also mentioned bypassing the heater and not using it for long periods of time. That’s exceptionally bad for a pool heater as the stagnant water in the heat exchanger can cause corrosion or damage. Pool heaters have the longest lives when they are used regularly. Just like letting a car sit in a garage for months or years without ever turning over the engine, stagnant equipment can develop all sorts of problems.

I would suggest getting a replacement unit from Raypak if that’s possible and then redoubling your efforts at checking and maintaining water chemistry as well as firing the unit regularly even if you don’t intend to heat the pool.

I plan to remove the valve entirely and just have the pipe go straight up and over to the filter if I remove the pressure side cleaner.

Watch the numbers and post all numbers.

When it shuts off, give it at least 5 minutes to restart and then post all numbers.

NOTE: Output is scaled back to 20% or lower (depending on where the dial is set) at 60°F and chlorine
production stops altogether at 50°F.

mwhitney said:

When we were on the old chem schedule, the hot tub store recommended keeping the cover off when adding chemicals for 20-45 minutes. Is this necessary for adding Dichlor / Liquid Chlorine or can we add, and close the lid?

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5 mins is probably plenty.

mwhitney said:

Also - is it recommended to wait go in until we have the DiChlor / Chlorine dialled? Given what's been said, I'm assuming going in early could make it a challenge to get this initial setup right (skewing values).

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Going in won't alter the CYA, but it will consume FC. You'll also have some FC consumption afterwards as the residuals are oxidizing from your soak.

I say hop in and dose FC as necessary after the soak. Maybe you use up what you had. Maybe there's a little left and you only need a couple ppm. It might also use up what you add afterwards by tomorrow. But it'll tell you at every step.
(Notice the recurring theme ? )

Apparently, I am not alone in my Avia experience.

Reddit discussion

It seems like the bowl is filling up too much. That may be due to all the rocks in the bowl. You might try adjusting the water level a bit.

Bowls like that shouldn’t be level. Installing them with a slight tilt forward aids in the flow over the edge. It’s easy enough to do with a shim when it’s being installed but after installation it’s probably not possible to fix without a lot of headache.

You can try cleaning up edge a bit and adjusting the water level in the bowl. You may be able to find an operating point that doesn’t result in water flowing back under the edge.

Dr. Mike said:

Tom saved me thousands $$$$$

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You should see how much we can save you on chemistry. I'm pocketing about $1000 a season. The donations mentioned above are a no brainer.

Chlorine Output & Salt Levels

1. With Firmware Revision 1.55 (5/8/2009) the cycle time (reversal of polarity) changed from 120 minutes (2 hrs) to 180 minutes (3 hrs).

When you set the ‘Desired Output %’ dial on the main panel this sets the level of salt cell operation as a percent of the operating time of each cycle. 50% is the factory default.

Below are simple examples for 2 and 3 hr cycle times.

• 2 hr cycle: If the output is set at 50% and the total time for operation is 8 hrs, the salt cell will operate (and produce chlorine) for 50% (1 hr) of each 2hr cycle for a total of 4 hrs.

• 3 hr cycle: If the output is set at 50% and the total time for operation is 9 hrs, the salt cell will operate (and produce chlorine) for 50% (1.5 hrs) of each 3 hrs cycle for a total of 4.5 hrs

drknapp said:

Mine is shutting down at about the two hour mark, but the panel is indicating all is operating correctly (except current is 0 and no instantaneous salt reading).

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I think that there is a 5 minute delay from shutdown to restart in the reverse polarity.

When we were on the old chem schedule, the hot tub store recommended keeping the cover off when adding chemicals for 20-45 minutes. Is this necessary for adding Dichlor / Liquid Chlorine or can we add, and close the lid?

Also - is it recommended to wait go in until we have the DiChlor / Chlorine dialled? Given what's been said, I'm assuming going in early could make it a challenge to get this initial setup right (skewing values).

mwhitney said:

Donating is a non-negotiable as I recognize the immense value and knowledge here.

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TIA, when you're ready. We're paid up for now so no biggie if it takes a min.

Its fine because you're getting rid of the valve in the process. If the pipe is capped and the valve accidentally switches as is, you'll dead head the pump. It'll overheat quickly and burn up.

I'd want to plug the pool opening also so the pipe isn't a stagnant breeding ground for algae.

Newdude said:

Keep us in mind, if you don't mind.

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Absolutely - already on my radar and checked out the tiers this AM. Donating is a non-negotiable as I recognize the immense value and knowledge here.

Thanks, That's what I thought.

Mine is shutting down at about the two hour mark, but the panel is indicating all is operating correctly (except current is 0 and no instantaneous salt reading). I have a Circupool T-15 (CIR-GEN15 ) Replacement cell that is just under one year old. As soon as I switch it to off back to on it will start again. I did the voltage measurements per the info found on this sight and the voltage passes the tests (it switches polarity as it's supposed too). I've checked the cell and it looks clean.

I guess at this point I'll have to approach Circupool about a warranty replacement.

Hudsonbard said:

I don't want to make too much of it, but Pentair was unable to find a dealer willing to come to my location.

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I think you mean to throw shade on Raypak, not Pentair.

If Raypak will give you another Avia heater under warranty you might as well give it a try.

Pentair MasterTemp continues to be a workhorse heater where parts are available and we understand how to repair them.

G,

I suspect that you believe in the old myth about having to "turnover" your pool water x times a day.. It is just not true...

I run my 3 HP IntelliFlo 24/7, mostly at 1200 rpm and have no idea what my GPM is, as it is not relevant. I run at 1200, because that is a couple hundred faster than what my SWCG needs to work.. At this speed my skimmer work also.

I have simple set up and no heater so running slow makes the most sense for me..

To run 24/7 costs me less than $20 bucks a month...

Thanks,

Jim R.

Thanks guys.
15k Pebbletec pool with Pentair Intelliflo Wifi pump and standard Sand filter-
No Heater- Very Old School!

mwhitney said:

I feel like I have a counsel of elders here in the room nearly in real-time.

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Its a pretty sweet deal, and around the clock too. At 3AM you'll probably get our Aussie friends, and they might talk funny, but BOY do they know their stuffs.

Do me a favor. Once you feel like we've provided an immense value, *but not a moment sooner*, Help support TFP. You can select a set amount and get the corresponding badge, or choose 'any amount' without a badge.

We're all volunteer here so basically every donation pushes out the date we go dark. You want us around and we don't want to have to find a new hobby. Help us help you.

When I hit that moment that I felt I should pay it forward, it was a terrible time recovering from surgey, out of work, pandemic spreading on the horizon, etc. When the dust settled, my donation helped just as much, so this ask is more in general and not necessarily for right this moment.

Keep us in mind, if you don't mind.

A powerline surge protector does not protect from lightning induced EMP coming from other wires.

A pool automation system has sensor and communication wires which act as antennas to receive the EMP and zap sensitive electrical components.

qikbert said:

this died after multiple thunderstorms despite the fact that I had a whole-home surge protector the whole time

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It depends on which direction the surge comes from. If it comes from the grid/house, a surge protector sacrifices itself to (hopefully) save everything past it. If the strike is in the backyard, it already spread through the equipment when it gets to the surge protector.

They're still a great idea where folks are prone to surges, but can only do so much.

drknapp said:

If I have mine set to 100% and it runs for over two hours (mine is currently set to 6 hours), will it shutdown generation at the two hour mark (still shows generating) then restart at the four hour mark with the polarity reversed.

Click to expand...

No.

drknapp said:

Or does it simply reverse polarity at the two hour mark and runs continually?

Click to expand...

Yes.

Read Does Running a SWG at 100% Effect Cell Life? in SWG How It Works - Further Reading

Bama Rambler said:

The NEC required pools to be bonded beginning in 1962.

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Article 680 – Initial Requirements.

•First included in 1962 NEC with following scope:

680-1. Scope. The provisions provisions of this Article apply to the construction and installation of electric wiring for equipment in or adjacent to swimming pools to metallic appurtenances in or within 5 feet of the pool, and to the auxiliary equipment such as pumps, filters and similar equipment.

No electric appliances or wiring shall be installed in the water or in the enclosing walls of a swimming pool, except as provided for in this Article Article.

Article 680 – Initial Requirements.

•First Article 680 covered: First Article 680 covered:

Equipment approval

Underwater Underwater lighting (not to operate operate over 150 volts).

All circuits supplying underwater fixtures should be isolated.

If the circuit voltage is greater than 30 volts, an approved fail-safe ground detector device which automatically de-energizes the circuit or an approved grid structure or similar safeguard should be used.

Isolating type transformers w/grounded metal barrier.

Junction boxes and transformer enclosures for underwater lights.

Boxes shall be provided with means for independently terminating not less than two grounding conductors.

Receptacle location – 10 foot clearance 10 foot clearance

Clearances for service drop conductors – 10 foot horizontal zone/Other overhead wiring not permitted over pool

Article 680 – Initial Requirements.

First Article 680 covered:

Grounding and bonding •

All metallic conduit, piping systems, systems, pool reinforcing steel, lighting fixtures, and the like, shall be bonded together and grounded to a common ground.

The metal parts of ladders, diving boards, boards, and their supports, shall be grounded.

Metallic raceways shall not be depended upon for grounding.

Where exposed exposed to pool water and in other corrosive areas such as in pump houses or adjacent to water treating and other equipment, the grounding of the noncurrent carrying parts shall be by means of an insulated copper conductor sized in accordance with Section Section 250-95•

No pool equipment shall be grounded to an external grounding electrode that is not common to the pool ground (deck box or transformer enclosure).

Article 680 – Initial Requirements•

First Article 680 covered:

Grounding and bonding •

Nonelectrical equipment required to be grounded to a common ground in accordance with Section 680-7 shall be grounded in accordance with Article Article 250.

Structural reinforcing steel may be used as a common bonding conductor for nonelectrical nonelectrical parts where connections can be reliably made in accordance with the provisions of Article Article 250

Bama Rambler said:

Atricle 680 (Swimming Pools) was added to NFPA 70 (NEC) in 1962.

680-8 dealt with grounding and bonding.
It was renumbered in 1975 to 680-22 and renamed Bonding.
In 2002 it was renumbered again to 680-26.
In 2005 it was renamed again to Equipotential Bonding and major changes made to the body.

Looking at all that, I'd have to say about 1963. Realizing that not all governing bodies adopted the NEC it was probably later than that for a lot of places.

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JohnT said:

That's hard to say. NEC isn't the law unless it is adopted by local ordinance, so different versions apply in different areas of the country. The 1962 NEC first added swimming pool requirements, and it required all metal parts to be grounded and connected together. In 1975, the concept of bonding without grounding was introduced. In 1984, a clarification was added to indicate that a ground was not supposed to be part of the bonding system.

The wiring should be there on any pool built after a version of the NEC for 1962 or later was adopted locally. It's termination may be slightly different.

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Hey - a huge 'Thank you' to everyone in this thread. I feel like I have a 'Council of Elders' here in the room nearly in real-time. I appreciate the support and '101' breakdown for a new (completely green) guy. Cheers!

Dr. Mike said:

Tom saved my thousands $$$$$. Thanks so much for your assistance.

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Newdude said:

Let it be for a few hours. CYA mixes much faster in a hot tub than in a pool, but like you said, you won't over do it with some patience.

Also recognize the test may be a bit skewed later in the afternoon once the sun isn't as high in the sky.

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Will do. Thanks. Running dangerously low on R-0013 (maybe two tests left but more on the way from Amazon).

A good place to start