1740569810624.png

CYA not considered in Pool Math?

One is what is the mechanism that lowers active chlorine as CYA ppm increases.
Let's use HOCl instead of "active" chlorine to avoid confusion. At the same FC level, adding CYA will bind more of the FC. See red arrow:

1740569810624.png

I see the recommended FC/CYA ratio increases with an SWG.

The assumption being made with SWG is that the SWG is continually making chlorine, and the FC is fairly flat throughout the day...matching production to demand.

With liquid chlorine, you typically dose once a day. The higher FC target for LC is to consider that the FC may end up lower after a day without any chlorine being added. The higher target allows that daily daily demand/fluctuation.

For now, use the liquid chlorine chart for the hot tub without SWG. If you find your daily demand is low, you may be able to use the SWG chart. In either case, never get close to minimums. If you have to dose HIGHER than target, so you are WITHIN target range when you test, you should do that.
  • Like
Reactions: JoeSelf and Newdude

Pool equipment overhaul cost.

But the rest leak where the pipe meets the valve . The joint is seeping and leaking

If you didn't want a full scale replacement, Plast-aid would be low cost but very effective fix.

New Hot Tub Owner - Taylor Test Kit

UPDATE:
Two days since the last test for FC (using DiChlor only) and erroneously chasing CYA values, first.

Things have calmed down since then, which feels like a huge win.

FC came out at 13 drops using a 10mL sample, so 6.5 ppm. That's after our first soak in over a week (two adults), and after draining / re-filling the tub and running the jets for a 20 minute cycle.

Combined chlorine: This took 1 drop to turn the solution from light pink to clear, so .5ppm

We're still awaiting the CYA reagent, so we'll hold tight for now.

CYA not considered in Pool Math?

I do believe that was what we said back in the beginning. And the reaction or release times are very fast, less then a second.
Yep - you’re right. I trapped myself by thinking that FC was only active chlorine. Two questions that I have. One is what is the mechanism that lowers active chlorine as CYA ppm increases. Another is a practical one. I see the recommended FC/CYA ratio increases with an SWG. Is this still the case with a hot tub? I have almost no sunlight to deal with, my UV and ozone are off, and I’ve been running about 30 ppm of CYA. Tnx.

Programming a custom routine in Intellicenter to increase spa flow when opening/closing pool cover?

Hello! Brand new pool owner here just a couple days from adding water.

I went with Pentair equipment with Intellicenter and been trying to learn how it all works.

I have a pool with integrated 9x7 spa with the spillway at pool water level. I'm having an auto cover installed and was talking with the installer about how the cover will rub along the spa spillway every time it is opened and closed.

I'm planning to dial in my water level very very close to the spillway so that the cover is well supported, but I was thinking if I could run a routine to increase pump speed and divert all water to the spa, yet keep the suction in the pool, that I could create a bit of a water cushion over the spillway that would help lubricate the pool cover movement.

I was envisioning I could create a feature button that moves the valve and increases RPMs on the pump for say 2-3 minutes, then goes back to the prior settings. I would then simply run this every time I open and close the pool cover.

Is this possible and is there a resource I can refer to that is easy to follow? I was struggling a bit trying to understand the documentation I could find.

Need help on how to use my new spa

Jerry,

You have to set it up as the System Administrator..

When it is working, the local system box will show the IP address.. It should be highlighted.. if not select it..

Also, for me anyway, I never had to use a password, because it was all local.. When I used remote (cell phone) I had to us a password.

I am not much of a computer guy.. it just always worked for me and I set it up myself... :scratch:

Thanks,

Jim R.
Looks like run as system admin is the solution! Thanks! I just realized that I had this app previously (when the pool was just built), and used it to create the "Pool High" circuit, but I have no idea what I was doing...

Below is the circuits screenshot.

Any comment/suggestions on how to configure? Or if there is any documentation/tutorial that I can read/watch? Thanks!

I think pump 1 is for spa, and pump 2 is for pool, but I am not sure...

Attachments

  • 41.jpg
    41.jpg
    256.2 KB · Views: 2
  • 42.jpg
    42.jpg
    272.2 KB · Views: 2
  • 43.jpg
    43.jpg
    238.2 KB · Views: 2
  • 44.jpg
    44.jpg
    231.5 KB · Views: 2

IntelliConnect and Pentair Pool app not controlling IntelliPro pump properly

Talk to Pentair Support about the firmware versions in your IntelliPro and IntelliConnect…


A member had this Software Combination that was causing constant issues:
  • IntelliFlo3:
    • Controller Software Version: 1.05.000
    • IoT Software Version: 0.98
  • IntelliConnect:
    • Controller Software Version: 1.6.2.5
    • IoT Software Version: 5.72
Pentair Support updated his software over the internet to:
  • IntelliFlo3:
    • Controller Software Version: 1.02.000
    • IoT Software Version: 1.2
  • IntelliConnect:
    • Controller Software Version: 1.6.3.3
    • IoT Software Version: 5.72
Appreciate hearing what you learn.

Light's Chrome Finish Lost

Current moving through wires near the pool will create electromagnetic fields that can induce current in nearby conductors.

There might be zinc, magnesium, aluminum etc. somewhere that can push electrons to everything that is electrically connected to the light.

Metals like zinc are anodes and they are eager to lose electrons like the negative terminal of a battery.

These electrons are received by the copper and the copper is converted from ions to elemental metal.

Basically, the light has an excess of electrons with enough voltage to reduce copper ions into copper metal as the copper ions make contact with the light.

Plan to fix PVC threaded joint leak

Just confirming my understanding, based on your comments & article, the reason for not using Teflon tap is that it may become easier to over-tighten when Teflon tape is present?

Correct.

The over-tightened state with pump's vibration may lead to cracks in union or deformation of O-rings, I presume?
Yes. Unions should be hand tightened just enough to hold compression on its O-ring that forms the seal.

Cover lid bristles

Follow-up on this. for any interested party. I used Loctite Power Grab to attach the strip brush holder to the lid. Fast forward to today and every single one has failed. Useless product!
I re-did a couple of them about 6 months ago with JB weld epoxy and the other two today. Proper prep being sanding with 100 grit and acetone, then clamping and curing for 15-24 hrs in a warm place. The ones I epoxied 6 months ago are solid.
Otherwise the strip brushes have done their job very well and I have almost no debris (leaves, twigs, etc) in the housings.
A couple of stainless nuts and beveled screws counter sunk would be my go to method.

Plan to fix PVC threaded joint leak

Teflon on the threads can crack the plastic nut by creating too much stress on the plastic.


1740541818067.png1740541787868.png

Light's Chrome Finish Lost

Thank you for all the information. Unfortunately, most of it goes over my head.
I don't understand this "stray current" idea.

Does this stray current exist only when the pool pump is powered, or light is powered?

Should I be able to measure this stray current between the light ring and something else? What could that something else be?

What in this pool could generate DC voltage?

Regarding copper in the water. Last spring I had a mustard algae bloom and I used Swimtrine Plus algacide. It has Copper Ethanolanine Complex 28.94%, Metalic Copper Equivalent of 9.3%, and 0.97 lbs of elemental copper per 1 gallon. I suspect this is the source of the copper. Also, on January 30, a pool supply company test of my water showed 0.2 ppm iron and 0.1 ppm of copper.

1740541818067.png

Filter