Scott,

The Intellicom is just used to control the pump.. normally when you do NOT have an automation system... It has zero to do with the valves

In most systems... the IntelliTouch com port controls things like..

1. Pentair VS pumps
2. Pentair Remotes..
a. Wireless remotes via an antenna at the equipment pad.
b. Wired remotes via a 4 wire cable
3. Pentair Saltwater Chlorine Generators (SWCG)

You might want to think about upgrading to the new IntelliCenter with an upgrade kit.. The kit itself costs about $1,100 bucks, plus installation.

Personally, I'd be ripping it apart and removing the IntelliCom... Unless the previous owner can tell you why it is there.. If you take some good pics, you can always put it back together. It is really a pretty bullet proof system...

Thanks,

Jim R.

peakahn said:

View attachment 630054

Click to expand...

The most common reason to see a leak on the outside of the heater in that area is the pressure switch has gone bad. Remove the panels and you will se it on top of the manifold. Also, the temp sensor is in that area. If not there, then look at the hi-limits on the right of the manifold.

Capnswab said:

Have not yet tested this one. 50amps scares me for whatever reason.

Click to expand...

15A, 20A, 30A, 50A, 100A, 200A. Its all the same electricity. That's just the rating that the breaker can pass through before tripping.

Musty_Rusty said:

I was rinsing off my automatic pool cover and having the pool cover pump to pump off the water and silt. When the pump came on it started squawking really loud like it had a dry bearing. Is there any way to lubricate the bushings or bearings in the actual pump? It is a Little Giant APCP–1700.

The pump works but I am not sure how much longer with dry bearings/bushings.

Thanks,.

Click to expand...

Unfortunately, those are basically "throw away" pumps. They are sealed, and probably oil-filled, so as to be able to work in that wet environment. It would likely cost more to repair, if you could find a shop to do so, than to purchase. Its $147.95 on Amazon.

Welcome to TFP!

Welcome to TFP!

When measuring Flame Current, measure from F+ to F- in DC volts or DC microamps.

Measure before call for heat, during heatup and as the heater is running.

In same TFP article, "Electrical Surge Protection-Further Reading", it states "Surge Protectors are available that snap onto the bus bar of a circuit breaker panel. They require two adjacent CB slots to connect to both hot legs in a CB panel. This type of surge protector has a white wire that connects to the neutral bus to drain any surges. Use the Siemens Boltshield in the pool subpanel as it is installed inside the panel and is a surge protector/breaker in one unit."
However, it also states, "Installing an integrated CB/Surge Protector like the QSA2020SPD or Square D HOM2175SB in a sub-panel is not recommended... ." and "Since it does not have a ground connection and dump any surge directly to ground it is not recommended to use in an outside pool sub-panel/load center.
So, can the Boltshield be used in the pool subpanel?
And can it be installed in the breaker slots in the pool subpanel, and be connected to the neutral bus bar?

ParrishGuy said:

Is the cycling causing more propane to be used or it just a matter of taking a little longer to heat the spa as opposed to if it were running constantly?

Click to expand...

The total amount of Propane should be about the same.

I still do not see why it is cycling.

There will usually be an error LED on the back of the circuit board or a red LED on the Fenwal or the water temp is going out of range.

Thanks again for the thoughts:

1 - I certainly shut the power off before taking the panels off and taking the pics, don't want to let the smoke out of the wires.

2 - Wondering if they used the Intellicom because there are motorized Jandy valves that are automated as well (when I hit the SPA button on the Intellitouch, the valves move to drain/fill from the SPA instead of the main pool, and turns the heater on). Sorry I didn't mention this earlier. The Intellitouch also controls pool lights and a separate basin pump for a waterfall. There is also a spa side remote with buttons that mimic the Intellitouch inside the house.

3 - There used to be a SWG, but it doesn't work (according to the previous owners). Haven't messed with it yet to see if it is a bad cell, bad controller or somehow tied in to this setup. I have had a SWG in a previous pool, and know one only gets 3-4 years out of a cell in Florida. Just hasn't made it to the list yet.

4 - I can not see the wires in the pump, only the RS485 cable shown in the pic and main power connections in a conduit on the other side of the 485. The RS485 cable is connected to the Intellicom module.

5 - I will check where the COM blue wire nutted wires go. Typically what would go from an Intellitouch (inside my house panel) to the i5 panel mounted outside? A simple 4 wire connection like this or a larger bundle? Could these possibly go to the spa side remote?

As to whether or not I want to mess with it... I'm getting closer and closer to sitting on the fence, how much poking and prodding does one want to do with 15yr old automated pool systems? I know this stuff can get really expensive really quickly!

I have bench with steps which we love. i have 4 returns along the bench so when heater is on everyone sits on the bench. also bench is good to just sit hangout with other people in pool. pic in my signature.

ParrishGuy said:

Do you want me to check S1 to S2 in DC or AC?

Click to expand...

AC.

Do a High-Impedance voltage measurement and a Low-Impedance voltage measurement for S1 to Ground, S2 to Ground and S1 to S2 with no call for heat.

ParrishGuy said:

It just heated my 1,000 gallon spa from 70 to 100 in 45 minutes. Is that good?

Click to expand...

400,000 x 0.84 = 336,000 btu/hr.

1,000 gallons is 8,340 lbs.

336,000/8,340 = 40.3 degrees per hour or 0.67 degrees per minute.

(100 - 70)/45 = 0.67 degrees per minute, so exactly as expected.

A shelter to help protect the equipment is nice, but it doesn't have to be a full on enclosed building. Mine lives out in the sun, snow, and -30F weather and has for decades. Others in hot climes really need the sun protection. If you get that salt generator, then your chemical storage needs will be little - a couple gallons of muriatic acid. Maybe a couple of gallons of liquid chlorine, just in case. Anything else will likely be drips and drabs of leftovers from once a year or so additions.

Shelter/shade/gazebos etc. for you, that can flex with the changing direction of the sun are a huge plus.

A nearby hose for the dogs, if needed before they go in the pool.

A heater is optional, but on Long Island, leave room for it, in case in the future it is not decided to be optional. Bring gas and electric for a future one to the pad. Will be cheaper now that to bring it in later. They do extend the useful season, but you can hear the gas meter going supersonic as it goes though fuel. (While electric is a viable option, you'll have to judge depending on your local rates. But it takes a LOT of energy to heat water...).

We normally completely distrust pool stores - but have a couple (different ones, so maybe the tests will be close to what they really are) should test your tap water. Calcium Hardness is the big concern. You may then need to plan for having an extension of your water softener to act as an autofill to counter evaporation. If Calcium gets too high, the only way to combat it is to replace most of the water. And that may mean trucking it in if your local water has high levels (a home softener just doesn't have the capacity to fill an entire pool).

JamesW said:

View attachment 630113

Are the S1 and S2 measurements from S1 to Ground and from S2 to ground?

What was the voltage from S1 to S2?

The DC voltage should be 2 to 7 volts.

Each micro-amp of flame current produces 1.0 VDC.

For example, 2.6 VDC equates to 2.6 µA.

Are you sure about the readings?

Measure before call for heat, during the 20 second ignitor heating phase and during heater operation.

Click to expand...

You said check AC voltage S1 to ground and S2 to ground so those readings are AC. I did not check S1 to S2.

Do you want me to check S1 to S2 in DC or AC?

It just heated my 1,000 gallon spa from 70 to 100 in 45 minutes. Is that good?

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AmberCrest said:

I might start a new separate thread on this directly related question but might as well kick it off here as it seems I'm suddenly in a serious time crunch.

I'm currently out of town and heard from my better half today that the Aqualink system seems to have forgotten it's time schedule. When set to Auto, it does not automatically power the pump on. In Service mode the pump can still be turned on.
As background, I set it to Service mode late last week as the Atlanta area was again going well under freezing and we already had one break this winter (possibly two). The system was running during the day and only doing freeze protect at night. At 14 degrees, that was evidently not enough.
We got past the hard freeze but now Auto seems to not do anything. With no control panel we're kind of stuck so time to pull the trigger.

The question - What is the story with buying the IQ30-RS kit online?
Most places seem to be carrying it for around $1200-$1400 but a lot of what I think are the 'more reputable' places imply or specifically say the kit is not available to purchase on-line due to manufacture restriction. For example, the InYo site states: "PER THE MANUFACTURER: THIS ITEM IS NOT AVAILABLE FOR SALE ONLINE"

There are a few places that list it for less, $1050-$1100 and while they will sell it, two of the three also seem to imply that the item is only for "pro" pool service purchase.
I've not called yet but marina pool spa and patio is seems to have it for $1000...

Thanks!

Click to expand...

I have purchased from Polytec Pools some Jandy items. Call them, and they will tell you to either order online or order on the phone (like be there in person).

I purchased my iQ30-RS kit from a local Pinch a Penny pool store. I purchase liquid chlorine and salt consistently from them, plus I had previously purchased my Pentair VS pump that was on a big sale at their store. They were willing to give me a good price for the iQ30-RS and I paid an extra $150 for installation. This was nearly 4 years ago so not sure about current prices.
Sometimes it may be worth it to pay the local price vs the risk of unknown from online dealers. Just an option for consideration.

start yourself a for-sale thread for that pi over in the "coffee bar" forum!

Which voltage setting did you use?

LoZ stands for Low Impedance (Z).

This feature presents a low impedance input to the circuit under test.

This reduces the possibility of false readings due to ghost voltages and improves accuracy when testing to determine absence or presence of voltage.

Most digital multimeters available today have an input impedance that's high enough to show the capacitively coupled voltage, giving a false impression of a live conductor.

The meter is actually measuring voltage coupled into the disconnected conductor.

However, these voltages, at times, can be 80-85% of what the "hard" voltage should be.

Set the skimmers (note that it's plural) to benefit from the prevailing winds so that debris actually gets to the skimmers. Make plans for shade. I wish I had accommodated a shade sail. Give yourself plenty of room around the equipment pad so you can work on the various parts. Put in an auto fill for sure, with soft water to it if possible or if needed in your area. +10 on the SWG chlorine generator. And get yourself a TFPro testing kit before the pool is finished because the kit the builder will give you is wimpy and you do not want to be visiting any pool stores to get sucked into their business plan.

JJ_Tex said:

At $500+ a pop

Click to expand...

Pun intended ?

Are the S1 and S2 measurements from S1 to Ground and from S2 to ground?

What was the voltage from S1 to S2?

The DC voltage should be 2 to 7 volts.

Each micro-amp of flame current produces 1.0 VDC.

For example, 2.6 VDC equates to 2.6 µA.

Are you sure about the readings?

Measure before call for heat, during the 20 second ignitor heating phase and during heater operation.