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pool robots - what is the best solution?

Jimrahbe
PQ,

A lot depends on you...

What type of cleaner do you consider a 'robot'?

What do you expect the cleaner to do?

See this thread.

New EVO 614i Robot Pool Cleaner Review

About a month ago I needed a new robot pool cleaner and I contacted Margaret at Marina Pool and Spa. My initial goal was to buy another S200 "style" robot as I have been happy with them so far. Margaret suggested that I might want to look at a new line of robot cleaners that Marina is now...
www.google.com www.google.com

Thanks,

Jim R.
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Converting to salt

Newdude
lbc1965 said:
Pentair says to mount vertical. You mention upflow and to mount it “up” but then you say horizontal. Horizontal or vertical??
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Either. But if vertical, it needs to go up, not down.
lbc1965 said:
When I open the pool after 8 months covered/stagnant it is murky green
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It needs a SLAM Process. (<--- click blue links)

Without confirmation tests you got it all, anything else is dump and pray. Algae is microscopic and by the time you see it, it's waaaaaaaay to late. If any remains which hasn't grown exponentially to the point of being seen, it can plague you all season.
lbc1965 said:
The pump is capable of 140 gpm so that is why I was looking at a bypass loop
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ICs are designed to work with all pool pumps.
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Jandy pump won’t turn on

1
Capnswab said:
Pool isn’t even 1 year old. Called in a noisy Aqualink transformer to the builder, and they said they wanted to send a PM out first before calling in the warranty part. He came out yesterday. Opened up the panel and he started poking around. Everything out there turned off, no lights on the Aqualink panel. He left and said he’d call it in since the pool was basically dead. Once he left, I opened up the panel and noticed the 3.15amp fuse was blown. Ordered replacements that got here this morning, popped a new one in, panel turned back on and now I have lights at the panel, but the pump won’t turn on. Shows it’s in pool mode now.

Checked the transformer with my multimeter, and I’m getting 26 volts. Pulled the access panel off the back of the pump and with the non-contact volt meter, I got beeps so it should be getting power. I’m able to turn the pool lights on and off via the Aqualink app, so it would appear that all is well there. Unsure of what I can try next to see if I can get the pump running again. Let me know what else is needed and I can add whatever details from here.

All of this is powered from the main electrical panel on the side of the house, that goes to a sub panel out at the pool. I’ve turned the “filter pump” on and off several times just to see if that would do anything, and nothing different happens.
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Do you have power at the pump itself? Is the RS485 (red) connector at the Jandy panel still in place or any of the wires come loose?
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Converting to salt

L
Thank you for your input! When I open the pool after 8 months covered/stagnant it is murky green….12” visibility that is why I dump so much chlorine. Is this wrong??
Pentair says to mount vertical. You mention upflow and to mount it “up” but then you say horizontal. Horizontal or vertical??
I run the pump 24/7 but most of the time at low rpm, just enough to keep the skimmers going. The pump is capable of 140 gpm so that is why I was looking at a bypass loop. I have not been able to get a direct answer to rpm vs bpm.
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Hayward Tristar 900 replacement

1
iceorphen said:
I bought a house recently, and one of the pool pumps (for the negative edge) started grinding and has now died, its out of warranty. I've been browsing the forums and have seen that a good replacement motor is the Neptune brand, and they are waaay less money for just the motor. Most companies are asking for like 2500- for an install of a new hayward which I can do myself if it comes to it. Can anyone direct me to the proper Neptune replacement motor for this pump (and any parts I might need to swap)? I'm also wondering if it can be tied into my controller which is an omnilogic, or if I will have to program it on the motor itself and just keep it separate. Not the most pool savvy, yet. Pics attached, its the rightmost pump in this pic.

ty in advance!
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The Nidec Neptune NPTQ225 is the correct motor. The OEM Go Kit is SPXHKIT100 (shaft seal, gasket, O rings).
The motor will have to be controlled through a relay. Using the relay now used for the waterfall, a speed can be set on the motor and will operate at that speed when the relay is actuated. The wiring for that is in the manual

​

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Epoxy paint for fiberglass stairs?

B
Jeff Lebowski said:
Why Poly? I always thought that epoxy was the superior product. Particularly when used overtop of Poly.
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I mean the marine putty epoxy isn’t all that great and neither is epoxy “paint”. They make epoxy repair resins for fiberglass that’s likely ok. You need something that’ll wet through the fibers and not just sit on top of them. That’s all assuming you remove any release agents/wax, from the bonding surface before coating it with anything.
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Waterway Oasis blowing fuses

Option
ajw22 said:
You can power the Stenner and the panel.

Connect the panel wire to the LINE side of the Stenner relay to pickoff the power from the same CB.
Click to expand...
Done! Thanks again for your help with this. I've just got to get the GCFI breaker installed now and then I should be good to go.

On a side note, I noticed that the filter pump relay is always on. I asked Waterway and they said that was normal because I have a variable speed pump which always needs power. My booster pump is powered from the load sides of the filter pump relay and I had thought this prevented the booster from running without the filter pump but now I see that is not the case (since the load sides of the filter relay are always powered). In this scenairio, is there any feasible way to ensure the booster pump only runs when the filter pump is running?
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C
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C
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Jandy pump won’t turn on

C
Pool isn’t even 1 year old. Called in a noisy Aqualink transformer to the builder, and they said they wanted to send a PM out first before calling in the warranty part. He came out yesterday. Opened up the panel and he started poking around. Everything out there turned off, no lights on the Aqualink panel. He left and said he’d call it in since the pool was basically dead. Once he left, I opened up the panel and noticed the 3.15amp fuse was blown. Ordered replacements that got here this morning, popped a new one in, panel turned back on and now I have lights at the panel, but the pump won’t turn on. Shows it’s in pool mode now.

Checked the transformer with my multimeter, and I’m getting 26 volts. Pulled the access panel off the back of the pump and with the non-contact volt meter, I got beeps so it should be getting power. I’m able to turn the pool lights on and off via the Aqualink app, so it would appear that all is well there. Unsure of what I can try next to see if I can get the pump running again. Let me know what else is needed and I can add whatever details from here.

All of this is powered from the main electrical panel on the side of the house, that goes to a sub panel out at the pool. I’ve turned the “filter pump” on and off several times just to see if that would do anything, and nothing different happens.
Click to expand...

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Cartridge Filter Cleaning stands?

Dirk
The umbrella stand is a great idea. Though I think I read here not to use a pressure washer. But if you've been doing that for years, you'd know better than me.

Just keep in mind, cartridges wear out, and it's the cleaning process that wears them out more than anything else.

I use some pressure to clean mine, but just that of a garden hose. I don't boost it with a pressure washer. I use one of these to get into the pleats.

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Dirk
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Converting to salt

Newdude
Hey 65 and Welcome !!!


lbc1965 said:
should I follow same 20 gallons process
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No. We don't follow dump and pray here. We test and prove :)

With no algae present whatsoever:
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
Its possible to not need anything at all, and when closed propely, likely that nothing is needed.

With algae present :
SLAM Process
lbc1965 said:
what test equipment should I use
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Test Kits Compared

Either TF test kit from tftestkits.net beats the equally priced Tayor equivalent. If you get the TF100 salt, add the smart stir thats included with the TFpro/salt.

Both standard kits come in salt versions for $20 more, including the $30 salt test, making them even better values.

Once balanced, test the salt baseline and add 75% of the remainder. Creep up to target allowing at least a full day to mix each addition of salt.
lbc1965 said:
Mount the IC40 vertical
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The ICs have internal flow switches and need to be mounted with 'upflow' so gravity doesn't close the switch when it fails. Hydrogen gas will build up when it happens with no flow and explosions are possible. So they get mounted 'up' or horizontal.

You also need a timer for the SWG so that it cant turn on with the pump off. Then the flow switch is a failsafe and not the primary safety measure.
lbc1965 said:
but do I need a bypass loop using this pump?
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No.
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Take couple of irrigation lines out of the pool refill

B
poolrabbit55 said:
Hi,
I have few garden beds and would like to have a T and take water after the vacuum breaker. Since I am adding a T I would also extend it to get another hose bib on other side of the bed. Question- is this ok? I have posted a pic of what I am thinking. Will there be any issue of cross contamination? Like pool water going to garden beds or other way? Help appreciated.
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As long as the fill pipe at the pool end isn’t submerged it should be ok. (Or if it’s got a shutoff valve on it at the pool side it’s ok) You just don’t want pool water to be able to mix with the irrigation water.
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Epoxy paint for fiberglass stairs?

B
Jeff Lebowski said:
Covers still on. And they're filthy so I'm not sure how well that would work. The larger blisters are about the size of a half dollar and stick out 1/8 inch or so from flush.
Click to expand...
The marine putty epoxy isn’t all that durable. You need polyester resin based gel coat if they are fiberglass. Pool paint doesn’t last very long.
Click to expand...

Take couple of irrigation lines out of the pool refill

P
Hi,
I have few garden beds and would like to have a T and take water after the vacuum breaker. Since I am adding a T I would also extend it to get another hose bib on other side of the bed. Question- is this ok? I have posted a pic of what I am thinking. Will there be any issue of cross contamination? Like pool water going to garden beds or other way? Help appreciated.
Click to expand...

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New Build - Vinyl Pool - Final Planning Prep - Digging Stage

D
Newdude said:
Keep anything remotely relevant to your build here for continuity. Update the title as it progresses.

New build : equipment stage
New build: decking.

(Etc etc etc) :)

I got zip for autocovers. Hang tight for thoughts.
Click to expand...
Thank you - updated!

Permit stage right now, but have to decide on auto cover sooner than later to prep for order/planning, etc.

Wondering what everyone/anyone who has auto covers, has for lids, walk on specifically as per my previous message
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Converting to salt

L
Have had a chlorine inground 20x40 Roman end 24000 gallon pool for many years and have decided to try the salt route. I am in New England so pool opens just before Memorial Day and closes just after Labor Day. When opening I typically dump 20 gallons of liquid shock, vacuum the next day and in 3 days the pool is crystal clear.
Couple of questions:
- should I follow same 20 gallons process and then turn on SWG when pool is balanced? Water will be murky green when cover is removed.
- plan on installing Pentair IntelliChlor 40 and using a Pentair Supleflo VST pump. Mount the IC40 vertical but do I need a bypass loop using this pump?
- what test equipment should I use….strips? Taylor liquid? Digital tester?
Thanks
L
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New Build - Vinyl Pool - Final Planning Prep - Digging Stage

Newdude
Dambra said:
Off original topic and unsure if I should make a new post -
Click to expand...
Keep anything remotely relevant to your build here for continuity. Update the title as it progresses.

New build : equipment stage
New build: decking.

(Etc etc etc) :)

I got zip for autocovers. Hang tight for thoughts.
Click to expand...
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