ParrishGuy said:

The sensor you see in the picture had some corrosion but ohm'd at 9.0, I cleaned it up w some sand paper.

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That is the 10K temperature sensor and should read more than 9 ohms.

Oh wow, that's super helpful.

wireform said:

See THIS thread

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Oh wow, that's super helpful. Didn't know something like that existed.

Looking over the various threads on that topic, it seems they're all for 120V SWC but if I'm understanding correctly, this diagram should work for my 230V booster pump?

Jeff Lebowski said:

Suggestions? I am wide open to the best option. Cutting tiny pieces of glass fiber and then stippling each for a few dozen holes seems like torture. I used JB weld once to repair a cracked exhaust manifold on a salt water boat. Lasted a decade. Might still be there, I sold it. So, that was a great application. Just the wrong color.

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A fiberglass repair epoxy that isn’t putty would be what I’d try.

setsailsoon said:

He mentioned the Intellicenter app so I now see that's how Jim realized he has it...

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He mentioned the Pentair Home app. Intelliflo3 pump and other Pentair devices all use the same app now.

The original post read like he was trying to understand the IntelliCenter prior to installing it.

ParrishGuy said:

I'm thinking that bypass/check valve may be causing back pressure not letting enough flow like you suggested

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If it's not broken it's good. The thermal regulator should be checked.

Good morning, everyone.

Thanks for such a strong response to my post. I really appreciate the willingness of this community to share their expertise and experiences. Let me summarize all your replies here for my benefit as well as for the benefit of a future reader.

The consensus seems to be that salt water pools may have a pH that naturally wants to balance at 8.0. And so long as the CSI is well-controlled, there’s no reason to fight for a slightly lower pH. After all, a pH of 8.0 is perfectly acceptable in the TFP methodology. While a pH of 7.6 or 7.8 may be considered “ideal”, it’s not worth stressing over. If one has decided to operate a pool at a higher pH, a pH meter may be useful in verifying the results of the color test as the color test can be difficult to interpret at higher levels. However, one should make sure the pH meter is calibrated.

It was also stated via a link to a different thread that new plaster may cause pH to rise higher for 6-18 months after construction.

Regarding question about the TA of my fill water, it’s about 20.

Thanks again for all the help.

bP

JamesW said:

That is 12 psi, which is too much.

Pentair lists Heater Head Loss as about 7 feet, which is 3 psi.

View attachment 629947

https://www.pentair.com/content/dam/extranet/nam/pentair-pool/residential/manuals/training/Sta-Rite%20Basic%20Training%20Manual.pdf

View attachment 629948
View attachment 629949

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Alright so here is the latest today. The internal bypass was in perfect condition. The sensor you see in the picture had some corrosion but ohm'd at 9.0, I cleaned it up w some sand paper. I took a hose at full pressure and put in each one of the holes in the manifold and they all flowed out the other side perfect with no obstructions. I'm thinking that bypass/check valve may be causing back pressure not letting enough flow like you suggested. Do you have any ideas on placing an open piece of pipe in its place for testing purposes? See attached pictures..

ajw22 said:

Do you have the IntelliCenter installed in your pool?

Put that with your VS pump model in your signature.

Look under your VS pump speed settings at the circuits listed. You should have a circuit named UltraTemp for your heat pump. You assign a speed to the heat pump circuit. If the speed is greater then current speed the pump speed will be increased when the IntelliCenter calls for heat.

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He mentioned the Intellicenter app so I now see that's how Jim realized he has it... I didn't see that and would be good if he could put all the details in his signature. @HiDustin , would be helpful if you could do this and let us know if you need any help updating it. Welcome aboard and great that our experts are helping out already!

Among the qualities he possess he has to be proficient in gas valve adjustments to be sure. You need to have enough gas flow to the heater with everything that's hooked up and if you are short you'd need a bigger gas meter.

Show us pictures of your house gas meter with all the labels on it.

We gave seen many people have 250 BTU meters with 400 BTU heaters which limit gas flow.

Thank you for the responses.

I had the neighbor's pool company take a look at the heater, and they didn't find anything wrong. However, they didn't perform a deep inspection—just turned it on a couple of times, and it seemed fine. Since then, I've fired it up 5 or 6 times without any issues or "backfiring." I've also ensured that none of the other appliances in the house were using the gas lines, thinking that pressure might be a factor. Most of the time, I run the pool heater during cooler months when the furnaces are on in the house.

I'd like to have someone come out for a more thorough inspection. Is there anything else I should check on my end before calling a professional? I'm comfortable handling the pool chemistry a few times a week, but the heater's internals are beyond my expertise. What's the best way to find a reputable repair technician, or does anyone have any recommendations in my area?

Newdude said:

Read up and ask away : Pool Care Basics
Download : PoolMath
Purchase : Test Kits Compared
witness : How Clear is TFP Clear?

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I have since modified the modification of my modified cleaning station. I found that the height it holds my cartridges is good for part of the cartridge, but too low for the rest. So I made the height adjustable (low and high). I wrote about it here:

HiDustin said:

I just can't determine the process or location of the settings. Maybe I just need to go directly to the Intellicenter panel?

Click to expand...

Do you have the IntelliCenter installed in your pool?

Put that with your VS pump model in your signature.

Look under your VS pump speed settings at the circuits listed. You should have a circuit named UltraTemp for your heat pump. You assign a speed to the heat pump circuit. If the speed is greater then current speed the pump speed will be increased when the IntelliCenter calls for heat.

Bperry said:

If your heater is set to turn on at 6am, then it would seem unnecessary to have an if/else decision fork. If you tell the heater to come on, it’ll be on and so you can set your pump speed to match.

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Hey @Bperry thanks for chiming in. Thats what I thought at first, but I have not been able to figure out how to assign a pump speed to just the heater. I felt like I had more options before pentair pushed out their new Pentair Home app.

I agree, with what you said, just set the pool circuit to 1200 and then run just the one schedule to turn on the heater. I just can't determine the process or location of the settings. Maybe I just need to go directly to the Intellicenter panel?

Jimrahbe said:

Dustin,

What specific VS pump is at your in-law;s house??

Do they currently have any type of automation system??

Thanks,

Jim R.

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Aloha Jim, appreciate your reply as well. The in-laws live with me, so everything in my profile is accurate. Full pentair setup, but look at that its missing details for the VSP. It's an intelliflow VSP I will have to take a closer look and add it to my profile later tonight when I get home from the office!

Again big thanks for the replies!

Option said:

Done! Thanks again for your help with this. I've just got to get the GCFI breaker installed now and then I should be good to go.

On a side note, I noticed that the filter pump relay is always on. I asked Waterway and they said that was normal because I have a variable speed pump which always needs power. My booster pump is powered from the load sides of the filter pump relay and I had thought this prevented the booster from running without the filter pump but now I see that is not the case (since the load sides of the filter relay are always powered). In this scenairio, is there any feasible way to ensure the booster pump only runs when the filter pump is running?

Click to expand...

See THIS thread

Suggestions? I am wide open to the best option. Cutting tiny pieces of glass fiber and then stippling each for a few dozen holes seems like torture. I used JB weld once to repair a cracked exhaust manifold on a salt water boat. Lasted a decade. Might still be there, I sold it. So, that was a great application. Just the wrong color.

I wish you luck with the putty. I have not good experience with it lasting all that long.

If you open your pool a little earlier and close a little later, you likely won’t have to green swampy mess every year. The good rule of thumb. is to close it when the water temperature is below 60 and open it up when the temperature reaches 60. If you do that There’s a good chance you’ll have a very easy opening. 20 gallons of chlorine can do a lot of damage all at once.

ajw22 said:

Chris, all heaters use 24 volt control circuits. You get into the wiring on the 24 volt control side of a heater and not the 240 voltage side.

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Allen, yep I'm aware of that but I only added the caution because once the heater is open they are much closer to 240 v than previously. Didn't mean to imply the call for heat was 240v. Extra cautious but seems like the right approach and I could have been more clear. Thanks for your help.

I double checked the RS-485 (the one on the right goes to the pump) and everything appears to be tight. I used a non contact volt meter on the input side of the pump, and it tells me it has power.

No fibers will be exposed. I am laying this paint on top of an existing set of fiberglass stairs. It will also (obviously) lay on top of the repairs. 1 inch repairs that I am planning on filling w Marine Tex or other epoxy based and thickened putty.

I just put them on concrete and sit on a footstool. So far that works fine for me. I use this nozzle which I recommend.
Aqua Comb Pool Filter Cartridge... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GS580BC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Read up and ask away : Pool Care Basics
Download : PoolMath
Purchase : Test Kits Compared
witness : How Clear is TFP Clear?