Lowering the deep end will not level the water line. The water line is always level.

The high side wall sunk into the ground creating the slope. You should see it if you put a level on the deck along the pool.

It should also show in coping cracks or open joints.

The pool walls need to be adjusted, not the water depth.

JamesW said:

With the plugs disconnected, test for DC Voltage from red dot to green dot on the three Comm Buss pins.

View attachment 630444

Click to expand...

5.5V

RDspaguy said:

So, the venturi is not working but you have water flow?
Yes, one jet can flood the venturi (air) lines.
The vacuum created on the air line does not care where it gets pressure relief from, so if it has an open port in water it will pull from there too. However that usually results in some air in some jets. To completely kill the venturi on a line requires pressurization of the venturi, which can be done by blocking, improperly installing, or using the wrong internal (barrel) in one jet on the line.
Try removing the jet internal in question. This should cause some air to mix at some of the jets. If so, get the right internal.

Click to expand...

I pulled the eyeball off of the problem return and looked into the pipe. i see no indication that it is a jet (venturi) fitting. i read there should be a 9/16” nut that unscrews or unlocks to pull out the internals. but, i i think i’m seeing through the tee fitting and back to the elbow that runs back to the pump. am i correct that there is no way this system will work correctly if a regular tee was installed? that means it would only bubble when the blower is on, but when the blower is turned off, the entire air system would quickly flood and compromise the venturi system, correct?

Do a
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test before adding stabilizer to determine if you caught some algae and need to follow the
SLAM Process

Pentair Intelliconnect will be less expensive than a new pump.

The picture is just the motor. Need pump model number to confirm compatibility.

Shelby,

Please let me know if you see this post..

Thanks,

Jim R.

TS,

One option would be to replace the pump with a new IntelliFlo3 VSF.. It can be controlled by an app.. And.. if he gets the pump with an option an relay card, it can turn the cell on and off..

But, my question is why does he feel he needs to control the pump when on the road... On the surface, it makes no sense at all.

Thanks,

Jim R.

Voltage vs. Resistance Chart (1000 ohm increments) For OmniLogic at 3.3 volts.​

Using the formula: V = 3.3(R/(R + 10000))

When Screenlogic/Intelliflo lose connection, the pump does not show "Display Not Active" as it should. I opened up the panel to disconnect Screenlogic and it appears Screenlogic/Intelliflo are piggy backed on one RS-485 port (see image). With Screenlogic disconnected, the Intelliflo stays connected most of the time though it did lose connection to the pump (No "Display Not Active") when I tried to run and heat the spa. I am thinking the RS-485 port is bad and wondering if I can install an expansion to avoid buying a new motherboard. Thanks for the help! It was old posts on this site that got me to this point.

Inherited it, I guess thinking behind digging the deep end down was so the water would sit lower giving it the illusion of a better water line matching the shallow end but it wouldn't change the conditions of it being lower by several inches. So by lowering the water in the deep end it would look better then it does now,being at the liner installation bead. So to me that would help address the water being too high and then visually you wouldn't notice it unless you got a laser level of looked at it from a certain angle far back. Lower it a half foot the water line would look even but the pool would still be sunk and sloped down ya. If you look at it now from center outside you clearly see 6 inches from the top in shallow and like 1 inch from the top in deep so it's noticeable this and a no border liner would help visually I think vs a deep end that's almost overflowing ? Unless ppl can dig and jack it up like a house.

It's clay soil and I can take pictures in summer. Surrounded by concrete decking so while I can do mud jacking to level the pool decking back up you'd probably see the gap and foam then fixing that...it's about 3-6 inch drop from shallow to deep end.

Vinyl liner, steel walls, concrete collar, finished floor not sand so whatever that mixture is it's not a thick concrete slab floor or anything.

There's repairs near the pool jet in the deep end and then the old line to the floor drain shows wash out so I think the pool leaked a lot in two spots likely washing away a lot of soil maybe so maybe that's why it sunk or that plus clay shrinkage and weight all over time it just dropped several inches.

After some further investigating, there are no gaskets between the main drains & the Liner itself. Using the small tube attached to the leak detection syringe, I can actually push that hose between the two( liner & main drain itself). Last gasp is it try and insert a gasket in between the MD & Liner. If that doesn’t work, liner replacement will be next.

For this chart based on 5 volts DC, we can use this formula for V_R = 5.0(R/(R + 10000)).

R = 10000V_R/(5.0 - V_R)

If we assume a 10k ohm internal resistance for the ohmmeter, we can use this formula.

V_R = 3.3(R/(R + 10000))

R = 10000V_R/(3.3 - V_R)

1.77 volts DC = 3.3(R/(R + 10000)).

R = 10000(1.77)/(3.3 - 1.77)

R = 11,569 ohms = 71 degrees.

1poolman1 said:

As long as it doesn't leak, don't worry about it. Especially with new pipe even primer is not always needed.

Click to expand...

Thanks. It was going to be a buried fitting. I started over before seeing the reply.

Welcome to TFP.

Replace the filter and move on.

Newdude said:

TFP water probably gives you your best chances either way.

Dump and pray never ends will.

Click to expand...

Thank you! I am sure you’re very right. Taking proper steps to ensure your pool chemistry is right is bound to help with liner fading. I’m sure with time and lots of sunshine all will eventually fade. I guess as the ink fades I would prefer a blue pool vs a white pool. Hopefully I will do an excellent job with pool water quality. I want to do my part in extending the fade time as much as possible.

Griswald said:

I can't run my swg yet since my order for cya won't be delivered for a few days,

Click to expand...

You can run your SWG at any CYA level.

Griswald said:

but the water is cold so not worried.

Click to expand...

Use the SWG to generate the chlorine you need as long as the water is warm enough for the SWG to run.

Griswald said:

Very timely topic ..
Just replaced my white liner with a blue liner, both Latham. The white background version was 13 years old and you can see very little to no patterns remain. I would stick to the blue version. There was no leaks or anything with the old liner, it was starting to pull out of the coping...and it was just plain wore out.

Click to expand...

Good information thank you!

The powder salt dissolved way faster than the rock salt. I just added 8 bags of powdered salt to my pool and it was totally dissolved in a few minutes using the pile and brush method. The rock salt would still be there a day later. I also run my robot to stir everything up.

I can't run my swg yet since my order for cya won't be delivered for a few days, but the water is cold so not worried.