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Is it time to get a new IntelliChlor?

Newdude
spudly55 said:
The date on the sticker is 2/21/2019

Pool size is 26,000 gallons
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A little over 6 years in sunny CA is a good life for a cell rated 1.5X more than your pool volume.

If you averaged 2.5 ppm for 200 days a year, the cell produced 789 jugs worth of 10% liquid chlorine. The IC40 should produce about 700 jugs worth.

Something to consider is upgrading to the IC60. For $300 more, it will last 50% longer and the ROI works in your favor. Lord knows how stupid expensive chlorine of any form will be by then. It won't be cheap. I can promise you that. Lol.
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Increasing CYA

PoolStored
pablocruz23 said:
Possible?
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Nope.
  1. You need to turn the pool pump off when you do the exchange. You need to do the calculation to determine where to pump and where to add. If you don't have TDS, use 1000 for PWTDS and 500 for FWTDS. We want the water to stratify so that you are not pumping out the fill water.
  2. Because the water is stratified, you won't be able to test the actual CYA during the exchange.
  3. CYA is a straight 1:1. 65% reduction in water is removing 65% of the CYA, so your net result would be a CYA of 63. You need to replace at least 65%. It may take more if you get any mixing, and a better end target would be 50CYA, so you may need to do 75%
  4. You will need to run the pump for 24 hours after the exchange to allow it to mix before you retest.

A good rule of thumb is that a garden hose is 5GPM. You can time/test with a 5 gallon pail...time how long to fill.
A pro tip on the garden hose on the sump pump, is to see if you can get it to closely match the pool input. If you have 5GPM in, you want 5GPM out. If the pump is going to fast, put the hose over something tall (like a ladder)...this adds head to the pump and slows down the flow. I got mine close enough I could go to bed and not worry.

If you need to exchange 15K gallons / 5 GPM = 3000 minutes / 60 min/hour = 50 hours. I think mine took 43 hours, but I ran two hoses (30K pool).

Sorry to be the red pill.
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Parallel RJ60+

ajw22
loamyroots said:
Am I correct to assume that all of the flexible PVC pipes from both sand filters join together underground and then come back up together right before the heater?
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I would not make that assumption.

Heaters have a maximum flow rate that two pumps can easily exceed.

You need to map out exactly how the pipes run.
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Parallel RJ60+

PoolStored
You will have to do some testing. If they were joined together, doesn't make sense to split one. It may be the split PVC is one or more returns. Same with the other.
Run the pump on the left and see where you get water back into the pool. Do the same with the right. When you do that, listen with a stethoscope or a tube and feel with your hands to determine when there is water flowing.

How many returns in the pool? Which pump returns to which returns? Which pump flows water through the heater?

I would figure those out before you abandon and replumb.
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Considering Solar Heating on Roof in SoCal

P
1)Yes it’s possible to diy, many members have diy solar.
3)75-100% preferably facing south
4)intelliflo 3hp should be enough, maybe put the height of where the panels will be. It would be more efficient with some type of solar temperature controller.
5)if you can do it right for 2-3k I would say it’s worth it.

I had a customer on the cliffs of Solana beach with solar heat and a solar blanket. I would say his pool was comfortable 6monthe out of the year. I would say you probably would get 5f+ from solar and 5f+ from solar blanket.

Solar Pool Heaters - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
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New Fiberlgass install. Pool is bowed in and poured coping is warped. I hate it.

ajw22
Latham and Leisure pools Installation Guides are linked to in Fiberglass Pools - Further Reading


Page 7 of the Latham Installation Guide says:

The walls of the pool may bulge inward if too much backfill has preceded the water in the pool, or outward if too much water precedes the backfill. If bulging does occur during the installation, the only remedy is to dig that area out and proceed correctly. Slight bulging has only visual effects, while not affecting the structure of the pool. A string line is very useful in determining the straightness of the pool walls during the backfilling process.
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Heater/Goldline Aqualogic and more

J
The keypad sits over the display board.

The clear window sits over the display board LED.

The 4 pin connector connects the keypad to the display board.

The 4 pin should be a common and then one wire for Up, Down and Mode.

You can trace the wires to see which trace goes to the Up Button, Down Button and Mode Button.

Closing the common to the pin makes the function happen.

For example, closing common to up makes it go up.

Peel off the membrane pad and show the back.

Put waterproof tape over the opening.

Shut off power to the heater until you can replace the keypad and bezel.





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Generic Chinese Keypad, Bezel and Display.


My guess is 1 is common and 2, 3 and 4 are Up, Down and Mode, but you can verify.

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The traces will be something like this.

A trace will go from a pin to a button.

Each button will also go to common.


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Increasing CYA

PoolStored
pablocruz23 said:
So, rather than simply exchanging 65% of the water (calculating the speed as best as I can), can't I just re-test the water from time to time and see if the CYA levels are reduced?
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Two issues:
1) CYA degrades about 5-10ppm per MONTH. Would take at a minimum a year.
2) At that CYA level, you cannot maintain enough FC in the pool to sanitize. It isn't safe.
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2" pipe connections

tcat
pjt said:
Do you already have a bypass installed? Any ball valves you can replace with 2-way diverters?
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Yes I have 2 Jandy 3-way for bypass. Going to reuse one and bought a Pentair 3-way. Decided 2 90's and one 45 for the offset will work. Ordered fittings today from PVCfittings (much cheaper than HD). Main reason is my heater is 10 years old and if I need to replaced it, I need to add a couple unions and get the SWG on the "out". Also going to replace 2 ball valves going into the pump with one 3-way. Probably don't "need" to do any of this, but I'm retired and bored, so why not. Will be all set for a new heat pump when it quits. Turned it on 4 days ago and it's up to 80!
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Increasing CYA

P
PoolStored said:
You need to water exchange at least 65% of your pool water.
The only other option is to hire a reverse osmosis company...I don't think they are cheap. This one is in San Diego County. California Pool Co. | Reverse Osmosis Pool Filtration in California

Read "no drain water exchange" here:

Draining - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
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Ugh. That looks like a nightmare.

So, rather than simply exchanging 65% of the water (calculating the speed as best as I can), can't I just re-test the water from time to time and see if the CYA levels are reduced?
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New Build - Vinyl Pool - Final Planning Prep - Digging Stage

D
Vol Family said:
I have the aluminum lid and so far so good, kids know not to step or walk on it. I walk over it when I clean the pool and it holds my 220 lbs of weight with no issue.
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Thanks! Any pics?

Also, is yours not the walk-on lid, as to why you ask the kids not to walk on it? I am being sold the walk-on flat aluminum lid by coverstar and told no problem for anyone walking on them at all.
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Filter Cartridges

pjt
rodaniel said:
I believe what we have is the Pentair Clean & Clear 520. Takes 4 cartridges that are 32" tall x 7" in diameter.
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Great filter. I have the same one.

rodaniel said:
West Texas is dry and dusty all year long, so we have to clean the filters 3 or 4 times per year else the buildup will start impacting the water flow and the vacuum-side cleaner won't move around very well.
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Are you using hairnets in your skimmer(s)? Have you considered switching to a robot when it comes time to replace your suction side cleaner?

rodaniel said:
we've found that the amount of time & water used when spraying the filters is significantly reduced if we soak the filters overnight.
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Have you tried a TSP soak?

rodaniel said:
The rubber ends of my filters are starting to crumble away a little. Not enough to compromise the structure yet, but enough to be noticeable when I'm cleaning them.
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If they're starting to crumble, it's time to replace them. 7 years is a good service life given your circumstances.

Cartridge Filter Use and Care - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
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Pool remodel... Add spa, plumbing, automation

john71chevelle
Hello! Thanks for a tremendous resource. Slowly but surely starting our pool/backyard. Currently have a old pool with 12+ years on plaster with nice brown tiles. While we plan on new equipment and options I want to find what we have in the ground now with a shovel. I'll be doing most of the work with plumbing. Personally I love the KISS method but at the same time the engineer in me wants to pre-plumb maybe a dedicated spa line etc.
The long plan is adding a overflow spa, ledge, heatpump, bubbler, deck jet gadget coming from bar (undecided). I'd really like to get the piping diagram figured out at this point to see what we have.
Currently leaning Omni PL salt package, heat pro, clean & clear 425sqft, heater bypass?, spa makeup etc

Current pad we did a pump swap a couple years ago.
The pictures of the pipes show 4 pipes underneath the irrigation going towards my skimmer, return and pressure cleaner (not in use) So I can see 3 but there are 4 pipes? Only getting one return to the pad.

Another pic I have 2 pipes heading towards my return across the pool. I assumed one was the return and the other the main drain. Is there a general way "this is how they did it in 79'" ?

quick sketches of our reno
Thanks for looking it over
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