Trying to narrow this down... The same thing happens with the Mobiltouch? - you change the speeds and they simply revert back and don't save?...

Was the pool pump running when you took that picture of the SWG? That’s an important piece of information.

You were talking about filling with RO water in your other thread. Have you discarded that idea?

Thank you for the input! Can you describe the changes and why it’s a good idea?

If you're on Municipal water, iron is likely not an issue. I wouldn't purchase the Tayor kit.

It's not unusual to find CCs in Municipal water. Don't worry about it.

1poolman1 said:

If you can see the burners, which is hard on a LoNox unit, are they all lit when it does light the first time? Also, it could be that the flame sensor is dirty.
RayPak usually uses the pilot assembly as the flame sensor as well. If you remove it and lightly clean it with a light abrasive, like a Scotch scrubber or even a newer dollar bill (old HVAC trick) it may solve your issue. NEVER use sandpaper.
Once the pilot is lit you should not hear anything from the ignitor if the system recognizes it is lit. If it keeps sparking, it is most likely the flame sensor.

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From what I can see, looking top down through the heat exchanger I can see that all the burners on.
I just replaced the pilot assy for this issue because I did find the ignitor has separated from the ceramic. I was hoping that was it but still same issue.

dpollac k said:

Arrived today and plan to install this weekend. Just out of curiosity, did yours arrive all wired up? With a 110v plug and ifi module already wired into the controller?

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Yessir.

Do yourself a favor and plug it into 110v inside your house just to make sure the front panel lights up. If so, good to go.

My personal opinion: if you’re automation savvy enough to run home assistant, you’re savvy enough to make the calimar do anything you want it to do. I’m working my way towards full automation, and I’m tempted to design it all with home assistant compatible devices and skip the pool brand automation panels.

I wouldn’t worry about the small level of combined CL in the fill water. I think youll see it disappear quickly as long as your fc level stays in the right range.

For the CH and FC tests, use the 10 mL sample option to save reagents.

For the CH test and most others, continue to add drops of reagent until the color no longer changes. Then subtract that last drop.

If your CH is around 270, this is a great starting point for your pool water. It's close to the minimum we recommend for a plaster pool. Fill with tap water and top off with softened water as we suggested in your other thread.

You will constantly be battling rising pH due to your high TA level.

Trust your salt kit for salt testing. The number on the cell only tells you if the cell THINKS it is in range and happy.
Cell is happy, you are happy.

Slam is a process. You never know what you will need. Start with 10 gallons. You may need more or less. You can always take it back.
For oclt, you'd like to have FC higher than 2.5. If you have liquid chlorine, turn your pump on, add enough to get to 7, then do evening test after 30 minutes.

AQUA~HOLICS said:

Issue #1: the shelf can be trenched/chipped out to relocate the bubbler, problems will occur if the rebar cage is cut and not properly re-installed.

Issue #2: Check the steel engineering plans to confirm the minimum depth of shotcrete required for the shelf and if 3” is removed will it still be within parameters, most likely not, also, in picture #2 it shows approximately 9” on the tape measure and this would leave approximately 5’ of water if the water level is kept in the middle of the tile line ( 3” of exposed tile and approximately 1” thickness of plaster on top of the shotcrete).

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Thank you for the all the info.

For Issue #2: I'll have to check the plans and see as you said but if they are not in params. after removal of the 3", how could this issue even be addressed and repaired properly?

TwinsPool said:

With this weir, if the pool gets even slightly below half full at the poolside skimmer opening, then during the high speed of priming a vortex appears in the skimmer with air getting sucked in and causing loss of priming at the pump. If I keep the weir, I will have to keep a close eye on water levels. The vortex doesn't form without the weir unless the water is VERY low.

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If you have removed that diverter in the bottom of the skimmer, that should prevent the vortex because the main drain will feed the pump.

TwinsPool said:

My other (related) concern now is that I may have a leak in the pool, despite the fact that it was replastered only 5 months ago. If it turns out there is a leak, I will probably remove the weir so I don't hurt the pump with accidental continuous air introduction when I'm not watching. Today I have started following the level of the pool over 24 hours. We'll see how much it drops.

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Is this new? Do you know how to do the bucket test?

I'm assuming the pool pump is a 2 speed pump - not a variable speed...?
Since it is an Easytouch4:
I think when you say the 4 Aux buttons you mean Filter, Aux1, Aux2, Aux3 buttons...?
If a solar system is NOT present, the Extra Aux should work the same as Aux 1-3 giving you a 4th Aux
You should be able to achieve what you are asking about, however, be aware in a 2 speed pump configuration, The Pool/Filter needs to be turned on first, or in conjunction with High Speed in order to turn on the pump to High.
Have you considered achieving the same result instead by switching the system to Time-Out mode and running High Speed for three hours?

Newdude said:

Salt, CH and CYA need 24 hours to mix at opening the same way they do during the season.

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I’ll keep testing daily but i opened it thursday and kept motor on and tested it 35 hours after it. Tomorrow i’ll check again. Salt reading on swcg says 3000 is it reliable?

Paper towel thing worked! Drops were much bigger and more "metered".
Now the fun part - did it twice again and I'm saying my chlorine is at 2.5!
Either my earlier tests were terrible or it's dropping fast...

Just thinking ahead - for SLAM it looks like my chlorine needs to be at 20 with a CYA of 50. Using pool math I'm looking at just over 5 gallons - does that seem right?

Also, after you complete the SLAM and clear out all the algae, we can teach you to manage your pool with ease and low cost. You already have a great SWCG (saltwater chlorine generator) so that is a good start.

We need to know details about pool volume, type of pump, type of filter, etc. Please update your profile and also Create Your Signature - Further Reading

That's the label part number.

Show all labels on the pump.

I think 18’ might do the trick. I have the 16x48 now. And that 2’ extra will be a HUGE improvement!!

Tlawrence said:

Did you ever come to any resolution on this issue? I am having the exact same issue. Is it the light? Did you have to replace it to resolve the issue?

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Hi…I’m in Alpharetta too and having same issue. What did you find out or do?

DonFant said:

They are sepereratly wrapped, heavy Guage, but separate.

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For reference, the bond wire isn’t supposed to be wrapped. The purpose of it is to be in electrical contact with the dirt and the surrounding environment and be a specific depth below ground. You can leave the existing wire in the conduit and use it for pipe tracing later down the line if you leave one end accessible.

HermanTX said:

The weir on the skimmer inlet is there for a specific purpose which is to create better skimmer action. It also keeps debris in the skimmer when the pump is off. It is your option to remove it.

Suggest you continue to clean the seating area for the pump cover and lube the oring every month (as a minimum).
Also since you wish to run the pump less than 24/7, just bleed any air from the filter.

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Thanks, Herman,
I'll take your advice about the frequent o-ring lubing/cleaning. I will try to do that monthly or more often and of course clean the basket at that time too.

I have the weir installed at the moment with plenty of water in the pool. With this weir, if the pool gets even slightly below half full at the poolside skimmer opening, then during the high speed of priming a vortex appears in the skimmer with air getting sucked in and causing loss of priming at the pump. If I keep the weir, I will have to keep a close eye on water levels. The vortex doesn't form without the weir unless the water is VERY low.

My other (related) concern now is that I may have a leak in the pool, despite the fact that it was replastered only 5 months ago. If it turns out there is a leak, I will probably remove the weir so I don't hurt the pump with accidental continuous air introduction when I'm not watching. Today I have started following the level of the pool over 24 hours. We'll see how much it drops.

Welcome to TFP.
There are multiple things to be done but most importantly is do not listen to the pool store rep as their goal is to sell products which may or may not help.

Low flow and low salt -
low flow likely implies that the filter is clogged and there is insufficient flow to activate the flow switch. What type of filter do you have? Need mfg. And model. The worst case is that the flow switch on the SWCG is broken but since you have algae, it is most likely due to a clogged filter.

Low salt - means what it implies but the only way to know is to test the pool water for salt level. Do not add salt unless you first test for salt and know what you have to add. However that is the least of your issues now.

Since you have algae, you need to address that first. There is a process we call SLAM Process. You require your own test kit to test for FC (free chlorine) levels and CYA (stabilizer level).
The first thing to do is to purchase liquid chlorine (Walmart or Home Depot are 2 places that carry it). Buy at least 10 gals to start.
What size pool volume?

The SLAM process can take a couple of days or a week or more - it just depends how bad it is.
Can you post a photo of your pool so we can see?

Suggest you purchase a recommended test kit. You can get it in a couple of days. Also, get a kit that has Salt testing with it as you will need that.
Test Kits Compared

We are here to help - the SLAM works. Many members have come here just like you and have been successful. However it does require you to test your own pool water, be diligent in testing and using liquid chlorine to kill all algae.