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1poolman1 · May 2, 2025

MichiganBruce said:
I just found this in a Jandy catalog. It sure looks like my waterfall, just flipped over and incorrectly installed.

Did you have the "rain" effect or a "sheer?" The sheer is available here according to the website:

Jandy 6" Extended Lip Sheer Arc Waterfall 1218CSA - Clear Lip - Online Swimming Pool Supply Store & Warehouse

Jandy 6″ Extended Lip Sheer Arc Waterfall 1218CSA – Clear Lip Sheer Arc Waterfalls can be positioned just above the waterline, no raised bond beam required, making it perfect for vinyl liner pools.The fall projects up from the unit at a 45 degree angle and then naturally arcs and descends to the...

www.goodsunplay.com

PoolStored · May 2, 2025

Welcome to TFP!!!

The target for FC is based on your CYA level. Without CYA, recommended FC level is 1-3.
Your FC, without CYA in the water, will get consumed by UV VERY quickly.
That is why low target and your FC is going away.

Read this whole article for more. Link-->FC/CYA Levels

duraleigh · May 2, 2025

Boric acid is not one of the parameters that TFP tests for. Why are you using it? No harm but it normally is not at all needed.

PoolStored · May 2, 2025

I don't use strips.

Read the test process here:

Borates in pool - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

duraleigh · May 2, 2025

Review the SLAM article. You are not doing it correctly. You need to add enough chlorine to get back to 16 ppm each time you test. The article will also teach you when you are finished with the SLAM.

yournamehere · May 2, 2025

Hi,
Our gunite pool was installed during the fall of 2022. Previous years I've had a pool company open the pool and this year I took it upon myself. I noticed the following pattern after wetting the plaster. Is this anything to be concerned with? Note that there are no visible cracks or physical cracks that I can feel.

Thanks

yournamehere · May 2, 2025

papadoppa · May 2, 2025

Katodude said:
+1 on bigger is better. I have a 250 gallon buried tank and I wish it was bigger.

Not just that you can buy when propane is cheaper, but there is a fill charge every time they come. Around here that is $30-$40. So having to fill less often is valuable too.

Buy once cry once.

According to the guy I just talked to, about 5-6k for 250, 7-8k for 500. Lots of money but I can use it for future remodel with appliances and water heaters. That includes dig, permit and pipe to where I want, regulators and $2.20g for the introductory fill. More than what I want to spend for sure. Will think about it.

barbpaul.rudy · May 2, 2025

Hi, got new pool, can't wait to learn.

barbpaul.rudy · May 2, 2025

Hi, got new pool, can't wait to learn.

Dragons Den · May 2, 2025

What's your favorite boric acid test strips? I currently have Pool Check B03 that I purchased via Amazon.

It's really hard to tell exactly where my boric acid level actually is. According to the test strips, it indicates greater than 25 ppm, but less than 50 ppm. I've added 55# of boric acid from Duda Energy over 2-3 weeks, following instructions to the letter.

I use the TF-Pro Salt Test Kit 3 times per week, and my pool chemistry is as close to perfect as I can get it. The only wild card is the boric acid.

I'm not overly concerned because my pool water is fantastic. I'm a bit anal retentive with water chemistry after spending 33 years in the Hydronic HVAC industry. I like to be asaccurate as possible.

HarrisonHRG · May 2, 2025

JamesW said:
I would suggest at least 3 gallons per bather of water replacement.

For 70 people, that is a minimum of 210 gallons (0.8 cubic meters) of water replacement.

In about 100 days, you should have replaced the entire volume of pool water.

We do a filter backwash already that uses about 1000L every 3 days, so not miles off that figure.

I think with the UV system, on demand after heavy usage like you say is the key, maybe running overnight and then in the morning we can restart the Salt chlorinator and do a liquid dose to bring it back up in FC levels..

Thanks for your feedback, replacement of water is bloody expensive when you heat it to 31 Deg mind!!

PoolStored · May 2, 2025

Don't start another thread, keep it here...

Pas_pool · May 2, 2025

ajw22 said:
The chlorine was bottled around March 3, 2025. Fresh stuff.

Okay good. I do know how to read them haha

gnr5 · May 2, 2025

Yes I want to try with water. Need to build the rig (will post another thread to ask about which parts), but first I want to figure out how to plug it

PoolStored · May 2, 2025

melsteph said:
I battle high pH all year long so am hoping to stabilize that somewhat, as well as intrigued by the potential for more sparkle, softer feel, and hopefully some algae preventative.

Am I wrong?

Sparkle is overblown. I don't notice the softer feel, nor does my family. Will not give you any algae prevention. The benefit of borates is to reduce the pH in the SWG reducing the tendency to scale.

Now that you are going to add them, you need to be able to test borates. See the borates article for Borates testing.

For you FC, you need to follow this. Keep your FC at the top end of the range for your CYA. Link-->FC/CYA Levels

pH rising is due to your TA and the TA of fill water. Borates may reduce the frequency of acid additions, but not the amount. You will still want to lower your TA to reduce the amount.

PH TA Relationship - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Lower Total Alkalinity

A lower Total Alkalinity level can help a pool owner stabalize their pH increase. We'll explain how to lower TA with a little help from muriatic acid.

www.troublefreepool.com

Lowering Total Alkalinity (TA) Quickly with the Acid Aeration Method

Thought I'd make a post that might help others. We've had quite a few members this year with high TA, and I've been typing the same information over and over. I'm going to post this so I can link it to help others. High TA can cause rapid pH rise. High TA is typically caused by high TA fill...

www.troublefreepool.com

Newdude · May 2, 2025

melsteph said:
Each year I have a goal to have a better pool than the year before

melsteph said:
TC 2.5

CYA 60

FC is king. Nothing else matters if you get a swamp while pondering / doing it.

melsteph said:
Am I ready to add them, according to my levels?

You'll want the TA about 60. It will take more MA to lower the PH at 100 TA.

Newdude · May 2, 2025

melsteph · May 2, 2025

I did order the granular form

I battle high pH all year long so am hoping to stabilize that somewhat, as well as intrigued by the potential for more sparkle, softer feel, and hopefully some algae preventative.

Am I wrong?
M

melsteph · May 2, 2025

PoolStored · May 2, 2025

You should not pressure test pool lines with AIR. Pressurizing with water is much safer. If you do it with air, use VERY little PSI...a leak will show up even with low psi. With my rig, I was able to get about 1psi just using my lungs. Do not stand in front of the plugs if you are going to use air. They can come out like a bullet.

ajw22 · May 2, 2025

fabsroman said:
I'm guessing the SWG is just toast.

Seems the cell was not insane all along.

PoolStored · May 2, 2025

Why are you adding borates?
What product did you get? If you got powder, it is really problematic to add. Better to get GRANULAR from Duda Diesel

Granular Boric Acid, 55 lb [boric55] | DudaDiesel Biodiesel Supplies

Not tips or tricks...but nice read here:

Borates in pool - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

fabsroman · May 2, 2025

JamesW said:
Check the water temperature as shown in the video.

Disconnect the temperature sensor.

Login to view embedded media

Also, wouldn't it be reporting the salt level to the Easy Touch screen, which is showing me 4,350. I can check the salt level again with a drop test, which was at 4,000 before I added 3 bags of salt. My bet is that the salt level is being reported correctly by the IC60 at 4,350.

I'm guessing the SWG is just toast.

AQUA~HOLICS · May 2, 2025

Issue #1: the shelf can be trenched/chipped out to relocate the bubbler, problems will occur if the rebar cage is cut and not properly re-installed.

Issue #2: Check the steel engineering plans to confirm the minimum depth of shotcrete required for the shelf and if 3” is removed will it still be within parameters, most likely not, also, in picture #2 it shows approximately 9” on the tape measure and this would leave approximately 5’ of water if the water level is kept in the middle of the tile line ( 3” of exposed tile and approximately 1” thickness of plaster on top of the shotcrete).

melsteph · May 2, 2025

I am taking the plunge and going to add borates this year! This is my 6th season following all things TFP. Each year I have a goal to have a better pool than the year before so after researching and learning here, I decided to take the plunge.
Here were my levels last night:
TC 2.5
TA 100
CH 300
CYA 60
pH 8 * added Muriatic Acid

Borates arrive today from Amazon.

Am I ready to add them, according to my levels? Anything else I need to adjust? Tips, tricks, thoughts??
Oh and Happy Derby Weekend!
Melissa

ajw22 · May 2, 2025

Pas_pool said:
and all had this expiration. 062. Does that mean like March 1 ish…?

The chlorine was bottled around March 3, 2025. Fresh stuff.

fabsroman · May 2, 2025

JamesW said:
Check the water temperature as shown in the video.

Disconnect the temperature sensor.

Login to view embedded media

When you say to disconnect the water temp sensor, are you talking about the one plumbed in after the pump/before the filter with a lead that goes to the Easy Touch panel?

sylcar · May 2, 2025

Hi all New here So I used the floc And the water is clear but the green at the bottom when vaccuum floats up still No matter how slow I go Tired of see that green at the bottom Please help

Jsf721 · May 2, 2025

PoolStored said:
Do the test linked, start at #8.

Ok that’s was something I never did before. I got 40 on the tube so x 2 is 80.

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