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HELP - The house we bought has major issues - Old vinyl liner, massive leak, wall heave / bowing - How can we fix it, and what do we do?

J
Bperry said:
Assuming you want to keep the pool, I think I’d drain the water with a separate pump to somewhere that doesn’t damage anything (if available) unless I was sure where the leaking water was going.
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Thanks for the advice!
Yeah I really would love to pump off the water at least to the level of the shallow end tear and rip. As then there is less water draining under the house as I could drain the water much further away from the house.
Do you think that would possibly compromise the structure at all? Or are vinyl pools effectively an open structure as my understanding is they are non water tight seams between the bottom and the metal side walls.


Also can I just get in a mini excavator and dig up around the pool or is there vital bracing that runs out the back end of the steel siding that we would need to be careful of?

At this point I am expecting to rip up the deck, dig down with an excavator, then leave it to the pool people to brace it and put in new coping and viny liner and replace the lines and returns and skimmer and then have our contractor pour new concrete as I was hoping to pour new concrete in other areas of our house as well. Does that seem reasonable?
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Circupool Core 35 install

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Newdude said:
Or get a VSP and run 24/7. If my pump loses power so does the SWG. On the off chance the pump blows up and the SWG retains power with no flow, then that one time the flow switch can take over.

24/7 VSP with a SWG is the only way to fly IMO. Then it just so happens you don't need a timer.
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This is the conclusion I came to when I did it and it’s how I run my setup. It may go against the grain of collective wisdom, but to each his own. Part of the reason I took this position is because the salt cell and the flow switch are integrated in this instance. If my pump blows and the flow switch doesn’t fail safe the unit, then I feel like I have a warranty claim. It may be depreciated in the later years, but I’m ok with that. At the speed that I tinker, I’m essentially betting that the flow switch will last the life of the salt cell, or I’ll otherwise swap the system out before it fails. I might not have taken this approach if the switch was separate from the cell and. It replaced at the same time.
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tftestkits.net order help

T
Hello,

I am new here and not sure if Tfttestkits.net website is affiliated with this forum. I put my order for a TF 100 test kit more than a week ago, and my package has been lost and was never delivered. I have already filed an inquiry with USPS, but I was hoping to get a replacement from Tfttestkits. I have sent them emails, tried to call them and left a voicemail as well, but no one has gotten back to me in two days.

Has anyone else here have ordered from them and maybe have a better contact info?

Thank you,

Tasos
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Help: CC at 13

R
All,
Using a new pool company this year for our community pool- 50k gallons. After opening Monday they tested free CL at 1.6 and combined CL at 13. They are recommending emptying pool and starting over or adding cloe to 100 lbs of shock. We weren't happy with previous company as pool was left with algae and high CYA that we tried to treat with bio product.
What would recommendation be here?,
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Hayward AQL-PS-8 Aqua Logic Remote will not connect to base station if filter is running?

V
I've never had any problems with the remote connecting to the base station. However, recently I had to replace the water temperature sensor. Now the system is sensing the temperature just fine (so that now the heater is coming on like it should), but since then the remote says it cannot connect to the base station. Strangely though, if I switch from pool to spa, or to spillover, when it is taking the 30 seconds to switch valves the remove connects just like always. As soon as the filter kicks in, the remote can no longer connect to the base station. When I replaced the water temperature sensor it was only two simple wires and I didn't touch or change anything else. :( I've tried removing the new temp sensor but I still get the same behavior with the remote. I've also tried disconnecting the base station receiver and power cycling the entire system by shutting the breakers off for about 30 minutes. My first thought was that I needed to re-train the remote but it would not and obviously not needed since it will communicate while the valves are cycling.
Any ideas?
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Considering Replacing Damaged Deck with Cantilever Deck

N
Bperry said:
The water level at the top of the steps and a liner section that looks dislodged from the track makes me suspect leaking. I could be wrong but figured I’d highlight it.
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Thanks for pointing out the water at the top of the steps. It probably has leaked behind the steps in the past month or two. That doesn't help things. I usually keep up with that over the winter but I guess I slacked off after February, and we got a ton of rain in March.
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Just opened pool, Ph > 10 and CC = 5.5

O
You should also check with any janitorial supply companies.

If all else fails, find a commercial laundry service (linens and such) and go stop by and ask the manager where he gets his bleach. They buy it by the 15-55 gallon drum and will have a chem supplier nearby. That’s a honey hole I just found recently thanks to a buddy who owns one.
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New pool owner trying to understand test strip reading

P
Okay, night time reading is in (I know I only needed to take FC, but I’m just getting practice using the test kit).

SWG was shut off around 7:30pm.

My pump will shut off at 10pm. So I’m going to stay up and watch the Knicks (hopefully win) and I’ll go out there and turn it on low so it stays on over night.

I’ll wake up at 5am and go out and check to make sure the pump is still on. If it is, I’ll take my sample then. If it shuts off for whatever reason I’ll turn it back on and take my sample around 5:40am.

🤞hope I did everything right so far
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Considering Replacing Damaged Deck with Cantilever Deck

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ajw22 said:
I prefer a paver or brick deck with traditional coping so that expansion joints can be at the retaining wall and around the pool coping. This will allow the deck to move and be adjusted as the ground moves over the years. You will be chasing problems around the pool every few years as nature makes adjustments.
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I hear you on the benefits of pavers. I also have a quote for pavers but it is for over $60,000 vs $26,000 for the cantilever concrete. If we were expecting to be here for another 20 years, I would definitely be doing pavers. However, I think 10 years is the maximum and maybe even less so it's a tough decision.
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Upgrade Options?

T
Variable speed gives you 1: quiet DC motor, 2: 4-8 speeds for various needs and 3: low speed that is sufficient for skimming and SWG production that will not cost more than about $20/mo in electricity. Many people run their pools 24/7 at low speed and it is cheap to run. Then you are always skimming and making chlorine if you have a SWG. The speed can be bumped up in the programming to run fast speed for certain functions you might need.
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Considering Replacing Damaged Deck with Cantilever Deck

N
ajw22 said:
Depends if the landscaper is an engineer who can understand the situation and design a retaining wall to fit the slope and handle the forces.
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I'm not aware of anybody advertising themselves as landscapers that have engineering training but I'll look around. Maybe I need a civil engineer. At a minimum, a landscape architect. What is your background, if I may ask?

Here are a few more pictures if that helps with any more insights. The fifth shows the drainage channel between the deck and the retaining wall. I guess that does not count as an expansion joint. I had always assumed this channel tied into the downspout drainage system but the sixth picture shows it just dumps it onto the soil. The seventh picture shows a perforated pipe behind the retaining wall but there is about a foot of soil between the pipe and the edge of the grass so plenty of area for water to seep into the ground.

The last photo show the slope by the far side of the pool. The level ground is about 6 feet below the pool deck.

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Upgrade Options?

Alexr54
1poolman1 said:
You can directly control speeds with a ProLogic and a Hayward pump combination. Hayward ProLogic only "talks" to a Hayward pump. To use any other brand VSP you need to use relay inputs and won't have direct control.
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If speeds are the only benefit then i dont think it matters to me.
Ive been going with a single speed pump for many years.
Im not even sure what the benefit is by having a variable speed.
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What kind of pool light is this?

1
clock245 said:
Thank you so much!

I am interested in the spa electrics R1 as a replacement. Do you think that would be a good brand/model for reliability and ease of maintenance down the road? If it helps, it is a vinyl pool. Also, i would imagine this Jandy installation had to have a transformer between the main power and the light---do you think that woudl be the case?
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Transformers are usually easy to spot at a junction box or hanging on a wall/post at the equipment.
The longevity of any LED is a question that can't be answered except to look at all the post regarding the issues ones have had.
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