Latest activity
Leaky diverter
- By Jimrahbe
- Pumps, Filters, and Plumbing
- 11 Replies
005,
I'd try the repair one more time..
Do you actually use the waste line?? I ask because I recently replaced a filter at a rent house where I had a 3-way connected to a waste line, just like yours.. In several years, I neve once used it.. When I put the new filter in, I just capped off the waste line.
Thanks,
Jim R.
I'd try the repair one more time..
Do you actually use the waste line?? I ask because I recently replaced a filter at a rent house where I had a 3-way connected to a waste line, just like yours.. In several years, I neve once used it.. When I put the new filter in, I just capped off the waste line.
Thanks,
Jim R.
IC40 Diagnostics Question
- By Jimrahbe
- Salt Water Chlorine Generators (SWG)
- 2 Replies
t,
That cell has to be about a million years old..
I've never seen a cell with the 'life' button...
Most cells last 5 to 7 years, I think your cell is telling you it is old and wants to retire..
In more recent cells, a flashing 'cell' light, when the cell is clean, means that it has run out of the ability to produce chlorine..
Until recently I had three saltwater pools, so I've been through about 4 or 5 cells.. All of them failed exactly the same way.. The cell light would start flashing.. If I turned it off and on, it might run ok for a while, but within a couple of days, the cell light would start flashing again.
Sorry for your loss,
Jim R.
That cell has to be about a million years old..
I've never seen a cell with the 'life' button...
Most cells last 5 to 7 years, I think your cell is telling you it is old and wants to retire..
In more recent cells, a flashing 'cell' light, when the cell is clean, means that it has run out of the ability to produce chlorine..
Until recently I had three saltwater pools, so I've been through about 4 or 5 cells.. All of them failed exactly the same way.. The cell light would start flashing.. If I turned it off and on, it might run ok for a while, but within a couple of days, the cell light would start flashing again.
Sorry for your loss,
Jim R.
New EVO 614i Robot Pool Cleaner Review
- By Jimrahbe
- Pool Cleaners
- 661 Replies
TP.
Well, I guess the buttons could be bad, or you could just try a little patience...
I am not there of course, but it kind of sounds like I initially had the same issue..
When I push the start button... there is no light that turns on, so it seems like it is not working.. but, if you look closely at the constant power light.. It will quickly blink once or twice. Then it takes another few seconds for the robot to respond.. Pushing the button again will just turn it off..
In any case, if bad, Marina will take care of it.. Let's give it a day or so to make sure it is actually bad.
I have found that if I use the app.. it is worse.. for lack of feedback that what you asked it to do it being done..
Dust wise, it will take several cycles to get it all cleaned up and then the 'dust' problem should go away.. I assume you are using the extra fine basket???
Thanks,
Jim R.
Well, I guess the buttons could be bad, or you could just try a little patience...
I am not there of course, but it kind of sounds like I initially had the same issue..
When I push the start button... there is no light that turns on, so it seems like it is not working.. but, if you look closely at the constant power light.. It will quickly blink once or twice. Then it takes another few seconds for the robot to respond.. Pushing the button again will just turn it off..
In any case, if bad, Marina will take care of it.. Let's give it a day or so to make sure it is actually bad.
I have found that if I use the app.. it is worse.. for lack of feedback that what you asked it to do it being done..
Dust wise, it will take several cycles to get it all cleaned up and then the 'dust' problem should go away.. I assume you are using the extra fine basket???
Thanks,
Jim R.
IC40 Diagnostics Question
- By tnthudson
- Salt Water Chlorine Generators (SWG)
- 2 Replies
Hello! It's been awhile since I've hopped on here, but I use the Pool Calculator app alot! I've always appreciated TFP.
I did search for this issue on google and this forum, but the search bots seem to want to talk about the salt level being low So here's my issue:
I have a Pentair IC40 SWG that has lasted me quite some time (7, 8, 9 years), and the Life cell was blinking last year, so I know my time is short.
Yesterday, I removed the dummy cell and connected the SWG cell, and fired it up. I had already balanced the pool and added some salt per my test strips, but figured I may need to add another bag or two.
The SWG was happy enough to give me the yellow Check Salt light and I ran it most of the day, but the red Low light came on in the evening so I shut the pool down.
I added another bag of salt this morning and started the SWG again, and the Life and Good lights now flash alternately (I'm attaching a pic (6469) where my camera caught the Good light lit, but it alternates between the Good light and the Life light).
I held the More button to enter diagnostics, and the red Low light lights and stays lit, along with the green Pwr, Cell, and Life lights. (Pic attached, 6470). My 60% and 80% 'bulbs' have been out for some time (but the 20, 40, and 100% bulbs do work), so I'm not really sure what the bottom row would otherwise show.
So I'm just wondering if I'm out of luck and now have a bad cell, even though it seemed to work yesterday until the red Low light came on?
Thanks as always for any help!
I did search for this issue on google and this forum, but the search bots seem to want to talk about the salt level being low
So here's my issue:I have a Pentair IC40 SWG that has lasted me quite some time (7, 8, 9 years), and the Life cell was blinking last year, so I know my time is short.
Yesterday, I removed the dummy cell and connected the SWG cell, and fired it up. I had already balanced the pool and added some salt per my test strips, but figured I may need to add another bag or two.
The SWG was happy enough to give me the yellow Check Salt light and I ran it most of the day, but the red Low light came on in the evening so I shut the pool down.
I added another bag of salt this morning and started the SWG again, and the Life and Good lights now flash alternately (I'm attaching a pic (6469) where my camera caught the Good light lit, but it alternates between the Good light and the Life light).
I held the More button to enter diagnostics, and the red Low light lights and stays lit, along with the green Pwr, Cell, and Life lights. (Pic attached, 6470). My 60% and 80% 'bulbs' have been out for some time (but the 20, 40, and 100% bulbs do work), so I'm not really sure what the bottom row would otherwise show.
So I'm just wondering if I'm out of luck and now have a bad cell, even though it seemed to work yesterday until the red Low light came on?
Thanks as always for any help!
Attachments
What kind of pool light is this?
- By clock245
- Everything Else
- 7 Replies
I'm sorry! I should have thought about that.We need to know the size of the light. Nothing in the picture provides any scale to jud.
There are three circles. What is the size of each? The inner lense? The inner ring with about 8 screws? And the outer plastic ring?
Lighting Basics - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
Here are the measurements:
Outer ring is 3 in
Inner ring with the screws is about 2 in
Bulb is about 1.5 in
It is a vinyl liner pool. The pool equipment pad is probably about 25 feet or less from the furthest light. I believe the wiring goes to there.
I hope that's all you need. Please let me know if you need anything else.
If there are any multi-color lights you would suggest for reliability and ease of mainteance i'd be really appreciative! Especially, if you have links to where i can purchase it as well. Thank you so much!!
Switching to a VS Pump Today - What to know?
- By Jimrahbe
- Pumps, Filters, and Plumbing
- 4 Replies
D,
That makes it easy...
I would go with a 3 HP IntelliFlo3....
I am not sure what HP pump you have now, but the bigger the better when using a VS pump.. This is because the bigger the pump, the slower you can run it and still move a lot of water.
The slower it runs, the less it costs, and the quieter it will be.
I never, ever recommend a smaller VS pump..
Thanks,
Jim R.
Leaky diverter
- By sande005
- Pumps, Filters, and Plumbing
- 11 Replies
So, here's my layout, showing all the Pentair diverters used:
The three right diverters (closed) come from the skimmers and the deep end.
The three left (open) go to the jets.
The one single allows for discharge to waste before it gets to the filter (waste line closed in the pic).
(The loop by the SWCG is just because the heater is dead, and waiting for an install).
Pump looses prime at low speeds. Filter self empties, when at lower speeds. With system off, a full filter gurgles, and rapidly fills with air.
Placing my hand over the waste pipe end (obscured in the photo) and I get a pretty good suction as the filter self drains. The waste diverter is closed, as in the pic. With the six inputs/outputs closed, draining and suction stop.
So it appears the bad boy is that Pentair diverter for the waste line. No water leaks when under pressure, but allows air in when not pressurized. And it has to be a fair amount of pressure, since the system runs dry at lower speeds.
I, of course, will take it apart to see if there is any debris in it. And apply lube.
When new, this valve did leak water. A call to the installer, and they replaced all the guts, but not the housing. No more leak.
Operated well all last year, so too late for another call back.
Should I just embrace the pain, and replace the whole thing (which means filter fitting too, since there is not room to splice in)?
Any other advice?
(apologies for the lack of cleanup - was gone over the winter, and just arrived back a few days ago - so whole yard winter leaf/debris cleanup is in process!)
The three right diverters (closed) come from the skimmers and the deep end.
The three left (open) go to the jets.
The one single allows for discharge to waste before it gets to the filter (waste line closed in the pic).
(The loop by the SWCG is just because the heater is dead, and waiting for an install).
Pump looses prime at low speeds. Filter self empties, when at lower speeds. With system off, a full filter gurgles, and rapidly fills with air.
Placing my hand over the waste pipe end (obscured in the photo) and I get a pretty good suction as the filter self drains. The waste diverter is closed, as in the pic. With the six inputs/outputs closed, draining and suction stop.
So it appears the bad boy is that Pentair diverter for the waste line. No water leaks when under pressure, but allows air in when not pressurized. And it has to be a fair amount of pressure, since the system runs dry at lower speeds.
I, of course, will take it apart to see if there is any debris in it. And apply lube.
When new, this valve did leak water. A call to the installer, and they replaced all the guts, but not the housing. No more leak.
Operated well all last year, so too late for another call back.
Should I just embrace the pain, and replace the whole thing (which means filter fitting too, since there is not room to splice in)?
Any other advice?
(apologies for the lack of cleanup - was gone over the winter, and just arrived back a few days ago - so whole yard winter leaf/debris cleanup is in process!)
