Since it's an Intelliflo, by your first post I'm now thinking your "POOL HIGH CIRCUIT" is a Feature Circuit.
To set Solar button on the outdoor panel to run your high speed on an egg timer for x hours (Assuming 1 pump, no Solar system :
1) Go to settings menu and then Intelliflo (pump) menu. Set an available speed to the RPM you want. Assign that speed to Aux Extra
2) Menu. Down to Schedules>Select; Down to Aux Extra>Select; Mode-New. Mode-Egg Timer. Set hours to run.
3) Test with the solar button

ajw22 said:

Nope.

Pools stay uncovered in the rain without problems all the time.

It is covering the pool that creates problems with CC and pH.

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I was unaware of this. I thought having a cover on all the time would be the most beneficial. Thanks for informing me. I will try to keep cover open a few hours each day

Dr.Ron said:

Those wires being seperated I assume would not allow power to the heater. Is this correct?

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Not exactly.

Your automation panel, type unknown since it is not listed in your signature, just closes a relay that completes the 24V circuit powering the heater controls.

Fathead657 said:

Can having pool open during rain too long cause other problems

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Nope.

Pools stay uncovered in the rain without problems all the time.

It is covering the pool that creates problems with CC and pH.

Disregard my last question. I do have enough slack to reattach. Pentain Master temp.
Those wires being seperated I assume would not allow power to the heater. Is this correct?

Can having pool open during rain too long cause other problems

Fathead657 said:

Is there a good time to leave it open? Don’t want to mess water up too much

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Between sunrise and sunset.

Nope. You are guessing wildly.

If the remote connection works, which you say it does, then the wireless link is fine.

Your problem is that Pentair requires the panel and phone to be on the same WiFi subnet for a local connection to be made.

Wet Edge Prism Matrix Deep Sea Blue

Griswald said:

Pool salt is $7.98 at Lowes. Never seen it over $10 anywhere.

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Do not use Clorox pool salt at any price. It is usually the cheap one for a reason.

Dr.Ron said:

Do you know what gauge the wires are?

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Around 18 gauge is best.

The MasterTemp Installation Manual specifies using 18 gauge wire with a minimum 3/64” (1.2mm) thick insulation rated for a temperature rise of at least 105°C. The area the wire passes through can get hot and melt the insulation.

You cannot find that type of insulated wire in general hardware stores. So get wire with the thickest insulation you can find, and be careful with the routing within the heater. The thicker insulation will also protect the wire from that type of break,

sorpasorpa said:

Well the main reason is that I want a modular way to get total flow and screwing something into the returns is pretty painless. A secondary reason would be to confirm whether our plumbing method for new construction is balanced or not.

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You could do a circulation test like I did here:


Also, this thread is an analysis that covers some of the techniques builders use to equalize flow between returns:


But in reality, the flow balance between the returns is not all that important unless it is really bad. The circulation tests that I did above is with serial fed returns so the flow rate of the first return is higher than the last return but it really doesn't affect circulation much, see test #3.

thomas kleaton said:

That is dead algae from using HTH green-to-blue kit on bottom of pool in the photo.

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Dead algae is not green. There is still plenty of live algae in that mess.

EDIT: You should have mentioned earlier that you used the Green-to-Blue. That contains a floculant that MUST be vacuumed to waste. Depending on how fine the robot's filter is it will either just shoot right through it, or it will get caught and foul up the filter media. You can't use any kind of filter to clean up floc.

You need a proper test kit. How are you testing?
Follow the SLAM process.
If you don't think you need to SLAM, at least do the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. Link-->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
You fail, you SLAM.

I think I could remove the fixture, buy three PAL Creo Micro lights and a transformer/controller for a lot cheaper.
unless there is a conversion for the 90 degree fixture. Would probably need a inside pipe reamer to clean out the conduit.

Sendit6 said:

It’s wired for 220.

Someone who used to work for me, but went off to become an electrician a few years ago, is coming by shortly. He’s not a master electrician, just a general one, and so I’m hoping he can diagnose what’s going on. And test the voltage and anything else that’s he’s able to.

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This stuff does not require a Master Electrician.

Just someone who knows the basics of following voltages and can take a structured diagnostic approach.

I don't know why your Master Electrician focused on the switch. Best to start at the pump and work backwards if there is not voltage at the pump. If the proper voltage is at the pump then the problem is in the pump.

ajw22 said:

Check that your Polaris hose flats and swivels are as specified in the diagram.

Show us pictures of the way your Polaris sits in the pool and its hose and tail.

View attachment 620182

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A belated post to thank you for the advice. I'm following up to close the loop for anyone who searches for this problem.

There were several issues I had to correct -- the diagram was a great starting point.

The hose was too long and I trimmed it, but it was pretty worn out so I decided to replace the entire hose assembly. Trimmed it to the right length and that significantly improved things. But it still wasn't back to 100% coverage.

I found this video to be incredibly helpful on how to adjust the thrust jet and ballast float. Both of those helped a lot.

Lastly, there was a *lot* of water coming out of the pressure relief valve on the new hose. While I know some water flowing out of the valve is expected, this was much greater than with my previous hose. Once I tightened the valve so that less water came out, the vacuum's performance increased dramatically, and now runs perfectly.

That is dead algae from using HTH green-to-blue kit on bottom of pool in the photo. Pool water is clear and all of my levels (cya, free chlorine, alkalinity, ph) are in range. I wanted
a pool robot because constant vacuuming was using up my pool water and I would usually lose vacuum after 10 or 15 minutes (No holes in piping.) I want to be able to get up most of the debris
with robot and then vacuum any remaining residue if necessary.

Dr.Ron said:

Wiki link?

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Read Jandy Aqualink RS - Further Reading

As was said CYA 30 is fine and your SLAM FC is 12.

Make sure you get to 12 or above after every chlorine addition.

Is there a good time to leave it open? Don’t want to mess water up too much

When I reconnected the Fireman's switch wires in the electrical box, I saw that a red wire was unconnected.



There was no obvious terminal missing a wire, so I figured, let's move on, put it all together, and see what happens when we start the heater.

That led to the SERVICE HEATER LED. I removed the four wing nuts on the cover, which let me flip the cover over and see the diagnostic LEDs. Sure enough, the AFS LED was on. This made sense since the blower did not start.

Now, we need to figure out why. With the cover off, checking the airflow switch and its connections was easy. They all looked good.

Now for that loose red wire. With the cover off, I could follow the wire out of the electrical box and see it connected to the blower motor.

Pentair was smart enough to put the entire electrical connection diagram inside the door. That let me see that the blower's red wire in its harness connected to the right-side terminal bar. On that terminal bar, there should be two white wires and two red wires. Sure enough, one red wire was missing.



I put the red wire on the terminal block, closed it up, and the heater started.



While I was renovating the heater, I replaced all the missing nut plates and screws that got lost over the years that hold the side panels on. I got the top cover and side panels closed up and installed the new thermal regulator.

It has been three weeks since the pool was opened, and I think I have all the problems fixed.

Next is to update my IntelliCenter to Version 3 firmware.

This the current thread :

Quick question. Should there be more than a single light on at the base unit? I am actually hard wired from this unit to my Wi-Fi, thinking it is the base or antenna? Base pick shows one light, antenna has two lights blinking, looks like it is normal. have reset everything and still have no internet. Could base unit be bad?

Get that ladder out and clean it INSIDE and out. Bleach:Water solutions. Scrub it up!

cthenrys said:

Am targeting FC of 5 with a CYA level of 70.

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I would aim a bit higher so that if you have a high demand day (swimmers, organics etc), you will stay in range.

cthenrys said:

but I do see green

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Visible Algae = SLAM.

cthenrys said:

What is a good test schedule ? Daily / Weekly / Monthly once things are in steady state ?

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