How thin are the blades on the veins of the impeller? How was the diffuser condition? Warped…worn?

ajw22 said:

It is complicated and will take work to replumb equipment correctly.

It takes some thought on site with laying out equipment and dry fitting pipes and valves and seeing how things fit and what the issues are.


You have a better chance of improving the spa experience with a 3 HP pump.

The new spa pump you bought was 1.5 HP.

What is the model and HP of the current spa pump?

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Looks like I should have gone with a 3HP pump for the Spa... I currently hav have a sta-rite MPRA6G-155L Dyna-Glass which is 2hp from what I can see online. Most of the tags on the unit are pretty badly worn.

Currently at time the floor drain in the spa can be strong enough that there is spiral like you'd have in a drain or toilet. I play around with the balance between the main drain and small skimmer to try and get it balanced. There is a secondary floor drain to prevent entrapment.

I purchased an intelliflo 1.5HP

Great, follow this for you FC. Link-->FC/CYA Levels

These two valves are on the suction side of your pump.

Your picture does not show the return valves or pipes that feed your jets.

Show us complete pictures of your equipment pad.

Xiaosong83 said:

It runs from 7am.to 8pm. I'm not quite sure how to set it for different speeds for different times yet.

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Show a screenshot of your Schedule.
With your current VS speed set up, when in Pool Mode the pump will run at 2500rpm. With a SWCG, you should be able to lower that speed. I ran mine at 1500rpm and it activated the flow switch on my AquaPure 1400. We can show how to lower the speed and still have the SWCG active.

You can change Speed 4 - note I would change this Label to something that makes sense such as Mid Speed, to either a higher or lower speed. Then in the Schedule process, you select ADD and then select Speed 4 (or whatever label you set), then set a start and stop time, then tap SAVE So the speed will change when the start time is reached.

However there are a couple of key rules
Always have the Pool speed as the lowest speed that you want to run as that is the default speed. Currently it is set at 2500rpm and is the lowest speed but I think you should be able to lower it more and still be Ok with the SWCG.

Always set the Filter Pump schedule to be the longest duration you want the pump to run. Let’s say you want 14 hours so the Filter Pump would be set 5am to 7pm. It will run at the Pool Speed.

Set any other schedule to be within the Filter Pump times. So for example, you want Mid Speed (my label which is set for 2750rpm) to run for 4 hrs. Then schedule Mid Speed from 10am to 2pm.

The pump will turn on at 5am and the Pool Speed (say 2000rpm), then at 10am the pump will automatically ramp up to 2750rpm, then at 2pm the pump will ramp down to 2000rpm.

When 2 schedules overlap, the pump will run at the higher of the 2 speeds. That is why you want to have the Pool speed set as the lowest speed for any given time.

The AquaLink system will not run 24 hrs (unless Jandy made a change on their latest revision). So you have to have the pump scheduled something less than- I had mine set from 5am to 4:45am (23 hrs 45 mins). I had the Pool speed at 1500rpm and set 2 schedules daily to ramp up to increase skimming speed. My SWCG was active for the full 23 hrs and 45 mins as 1500rpm was sufficient to activate the flow switch.

Focus on the FC now but when you want to set up the schedule - just ask. But show your current schedule so it is easier to guide you.

I performed the test
FC after sundown 11.5
FC next morning 11.0

Patience. Open the cover. Even if overcast there is UV.

Why the rush to get your FC lower?

Is your SWG off?

Leave your cover open during daylight.

tomas21 said:

Wonder the different between the Stenner injector side inside plumbing that has a nozzle like tip vs. wide open Pentair

Stenner - UCDBINJ Injection Check Valve 1/4-Inch	Pentair Injection Check Valve For IntellipH and IntelliChem Control Systems | 522513Z
View attachment 642666	View attachment 642667

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I found there to be little to no difference in the function of the two

Replaced the surge card.

Jcsmith9 said:

Have you had a Jandy system before?

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Yup, look at my signature. Over the years I removed all my Jandy equipment including Aqualink for Pentair equipment. Best thing I have done.

Jcsmith9 said:

What is your recommendation?

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Anything but Jandy. Aqualink firmware can only be upgraded by replacing boards, lacks built in networking, and no outdoor display panel to know what the system is doing.

I like Pentair stuff.

Hayward is ok. Their SWG has some quirks that you need to understand.

Have you had a Jandy system before?

going the wrong way on only the salt system?

Jcsmith9 said:

What brand of spray paint is best to use?

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Rustoleum is good.

Jcsmith9 said:

What will spray painting the pipes black do to the pipes in the heat of the summer?

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Nothing if you use Schedule 40 PVC.

Jcsmith9 said:

Will there be any sort of risks involved?

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Risks with what?

Some folks prefer spraying their pipes white or Pentair almond.

ajw22 said:

Best of luck with your Jandy stuff. I think you are going the wrong way.

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What is your recommendation?

martin Coffey said:

Matt, I am interested in the bromide issue. I can't seem to find any info on the internet specific to swimming pools. I know that the two sanitisers are not to be mixed (bromine for a spa and chlorine for a pool), but wans't aware of the 74 ppm of bromide in seawater. Is it your understanding that the 74 ppm bromide is substantial in the water balance/chemistry? I suppose it is a relatively high number against the 5 or so ppm of free chlorine. Also does it lead to the production of chloramines?

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Seawater, one average, has nearly 65ppm (65mg per liter) of bromine as bromide ion (Br-). When you run your chlorinator, you are creating chlorine gas which dissolves rapidly into the water and forms both hypochlorous acid (HOCl) and hypochlorite ions (OCl-). The hypochlorous acid reacts with bromide by oxidizing the bromide to sanitizing bromine (HOBr) while reducing the hypochlorous acid to chloride ion (Cl-) and water. This reaction is constantly happening. So what you are doing, in effect, is running a bromine pool. The problem with bromine is that is cannot be stabilized against UV loss like chlorine is by adding cyanuric acid. So the half life of bromine in a pool is similar to unstabilized chlorine which is roughly 30-40 mins. Bromine is a sanitizer so it will work as a disinfectant but a slightly less powerful oxidizer than chlorine. There is ample bromine in the water to completely use up all the chlorine that your cell generates.

There’s not much you can do about it. And because seawater has all the other mineral issues you are seeing, your cell is going to get used up pretty quickly. The mineral scaling inside the cell will definitely do damage over time.

Best of luck with your Jandy stuff. I think you are going the wrong way.

What brand of spray paint is best to use? What will spray painting the pipes black do to the pipes in the heat of the summer? Will there be any sort of risks involved?

I’m getting the aqua link system as well. The saltwater system we have now is complete garbage. It’s a Hayward aquarite. It was here when we moved into our home 6 years ago. The salt is never accurate from the panel when taking it to have tested. Now there are issues with the motherboard and there is no telling how old any of it is.

Boston_Pool said:

Any thoughts on how to actually run the plumbing? My LP heater goes almost right down into the ground to the pool.

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It is complicated and will take work to replumb equipment correctly.

It takes some thought on site with laying out equipment and dry fitting pipes and valves and seeing how things fit and what the issues are.

Boston_Pool said:

My plan was 3HP for the pool and 1.5HP for the spa. Spa is a totally independent system from the pool. I made the mistake of buying the 1.5HP on sale and I think I'm over my head on how to install it given the tight space of my equipment in a shed. That being said, if the 3HP would provide a much better experience, I don't want to put the 1.5HP in.

Click to expand...

You have a better chance of improving the spa experience with a 3 HP pump.

The new spa pump you bought was 1.5 HP.

What is the model and HP of the current spa pump?

ajw22 said:

The thinking is the HP is the more energy efficient heater. Let the HP try and heat the water to target temperature.

If the HP cannot get the water to temperature then the gas heater can turn on and get the temperature the rest of the way.

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Makes sense. So it doesn't totally matter if I am micromanaging it. I don't anticipate using the LP unless I want to warm the pool up significantly in the shoulder seasons.

Any thoughts on how to actually run the plumbing? My LP heater goes almost right down into the ground to the pool.

ajw22 said:

Which pump feeds water to the spa jets!?

Click to expand...

My plan was 3HP for the pool and 1.5HP for the spa. Spa is a totally independent system from the pool. I made the mistake of buying the 1.5HP on sale and I think I'm over my head on how to install it given the tight space of my equipment in a shed. That being said, if the 3HP would provide a much better experience, I don't want to put the 1.5HP in.