Generic T15 Salt Cell Options

Might want to try here (5-year warranty):
Thank you for the referral. I have one on the way.
Way better than the 1K the oem wanted

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Bought new house with pool, sequence of fixing the problem

Disregard the SWCG salt reading if trying to determine to add salt or not. Only use the K1766 test kit (drop test) to determine the accurate salt level. Always test for salt, then add about 80% of the desired target, brush it in, let it circulate for minimum 24 hrs (longer if your pump only runs less than 24 hrs per day). Test again and add any additional amount to reach your target.

The salt sensor on the SWCG is electronic and it does a calculation and not reliable. So long as the SWCG salt sensor is happy then don’t worry about the specific reading.

The way to test what is the best flow rate to activate your SWCG flow switch is to start at 2000 rpm. Ensure it is active. Then lower your pump speed to 1800rpm, test again if it is active. Continue to lower until the flow switch does not come on. Go back to the last rpm it was activated, then add 200 rpm to that and set it as the POOL speed. The extra 200rpm accounts for the reduced flow that will occur as your filter gets dirty over time.

I think you are using the AquaPure SWCG. It may take 2 or more minutes for the flow to register after the pump starts, so be patient with that.

You show 2 different schedules. Both are fine as to having the pump ramp up and down. However, it appears you are trying to have a certain turnover volume of your pool.
Please read

You run you pump for a reason:
1) skim
2) add chemicals (dosing pumps, SWCG etc.)
3) Mix chemicals when you are adding to the pool
4) Vacuuming if you have a suction side vacuum
5) Filtering
6) Heating (heater or solar or whatever), or chilling (chiller)
7) to run your spa, jets, waterfall or whatever other feature that is water driven...

Run your pump as long or short as you need to accomplish these tasks.

ClearPool.jpg

IC-40 Dead???

Thanks for your ongoing help! Pool is clear - see pic below with leaves on the bottom of the deep end for reference...
TA is 88 (is that low?). Trying to stay around 7.5 for the PH.
CYA was at 50 or 60 (I'm terrible at reading that one).
FC was at 8 this morning. I forgot to adjust my pool math down from 16k gallons to 15k before I added LC yesterday.
I'm still feeling not great about my SWG...
ClearPool.jpg

When to remove water (from rain fall)

You have one pipe with a T on the end of it spaced just far enough apart so that you cant seal off both of them at the same time to get stuck. (y)

And that just goes back to the equipment pad and doesnt drain anything. The 3 way valve to waste at the filter is the 'drain'.

You may shave off a couple inches anytime with the 3 way valve. Babysit it because it goes quick when using the pool pump. If you leave the area, say, to go check the mailbox which only takes a minute, set a timer on your phone to return in 5 mins or less. It's sounds silly, but trust me here. :ROFLMAO:

Now here is how you hack Murphys to your favor. If the grass needs a flooding, leave the pool high and WOOSH it will pour. If you need it to be dry, for a party or such, drain just a bit too much and 'wait for the rain to refill you' (wink wink). Then add some with the hose after.
Okay thanks. I have my waste piped under ground to the woods. I’ll have to look at my setup and see how to turn it correctly to waste the water out. I have never done it before.

Do I turn off both skimmer valves before wasting water out?

Is there a step by step directions on here somewhere on how to do it?

Attached is my setup (disregard the red light on the SWG. It’s an old photo)

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Aquarite cell not generating

I'm only going to point out a couple of things here. If the board can power up there is nothing wrong with the thermistor. They either work or they don't. If you're pulling the display of and reconnecting while the unit has power you could damage the main board or the display. Being in Florida you use the SWG a lot like we do here. At 6 years it's probably at the end of life. I do hope your bucket didn't have any acid in it because that's how you can finish a cell off or shorten it's life. Put your pool and equipment info into your signature so we know how your pool runs. It sounds like you may be on a timer for the cell? Make sure it's turning on after the pump starts and off before the pump stops. You could have a wonky main board or a worn out cell or both.

HIGH Salinity

Are you using the SWG with or without the mineral cartridge? The minerals are conductive and if anything significant is coming off the cartridge, it could affect conductivity which in turn affects the salt reading.

I do have the mineral cartridge....but it's the same cartridge as always. I guess my question is morello the point of why would salinity run way high in the mornings and when Polaris robot is running, and go back down later in the day....just weird.And I know if the salinity sensor is bad, that just reads low.

Overnight chlorine goes up overnight

I added a bit too much chlorine & the level went up to 31 PPM, I checked it in the morning & it was at 32 PPM? I didn’t add anymore chlorine & the following night’s reading was 18 PPM, which was closer to what I was aiming for, with the morning reading at 19 PPM. The next night the reading was 10 PPM with the morning reading at 11 PPM! The CYA is at 42, the pool had a small amount of green algae I could not get to go away so I figured I would do the SLAM! I’m confused as to how or why the chlorine level would go up by 1 PPM overnight, do I need to keep adding chlorine or let the levels come down to normal?

SWG before multiport?

Thanks everyone for your comments.

The shed is indeed below the ground (and below the pool level), so there is no outside.

@Dirk you were spot on on the diagram (except instead of two skimmers it is one skimmer and one vacuum port), I'm sorry I made you guess, I could have just labeled the pic... I may be able to go with your suggestion, although I'm not sure two 45 degree elbows will fit there, but I will get them and check. Anyway, if it fits, are you suggesting adding two horizontal pipes? Wouldn't the 180 degree turn be a problem (I recall reading more than 90 degrees is not advised)? Also, would that arrangement need any kind of support so that the pipes and SWG aren't just floating or are PVC pipes strong enough for that weight?

Water softener salt

This is what I bought last weekend for $7.98
2 Or 3 years ago it was cheaper by me and the seasons in between it was $11 or $13. If that and water softener salt are same price, I pick the closer one because I have a big pool and the spring rebalancing is a heavy cart to push. But I'll deal with the struggle for a couple bucks a bag. :ROFLMAO:

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When to remove water (from rain fall)

Do you have a main drain? I have two
You have one pipe with a T on the end of it spaced just far enough apart so that you cant seal off both of them at the same time to get stuck. (y)

And that just goes back to the equipment pad and doesnt drain anything. The 3 way valve to waste at the filter is the 'drain'.

You may shave off a couple inches anytime with the 3 way valve. Babysit it because it goes quick when using the pool pump. If you leave the area, say, to go check the mailbox which only takes a minute, set a timer on your phone to return in 5 mins or less. It's sounds silly, but trust me here. :ROFLMAO:

Now here is how you hack Murphys to your favor. If the grass needs a flooding, leave the pool high and WOOSH it will pour. If you need it to be dry, for a party or such, drain just a bit too much and 'wait for the rain to refill you' (wink wink). Then add some with the hose after.

Aquarite cell not generating

Hi, I appreciate all who are reading this and offering their assistance. I have an Aqua Rite T-9 cell, about 6 years old so maybe near the end of its life. The main board is much older. My display board has been a bit wonky for a while so here is what is happening.

Recently, the generating light comes on solid upon startup and then about 30 seconds later the inspect cell and check salt light flash. The generating light would stay on. this happened for a few days
Now, the generating light comes on and the inspect cell and salt light stay on and the generating light goes off. The power light is also on.

I replaced the thermistor and no luck. Actually, shortly after replacing it is when the lights went from flashing to staying on.

I tested the cell using the 5 gallon bucket test and I am seeing a lot of bubbles and chlorine, so seems like the cell is good. see attached picture.

One odd thing, when I turn the pump on the salt panel does not come on. I have to take the display board off and then reseat it back and then the salt power comes on. This seems to be routine now as it has happened several times in a row.

here are my readings. It is reading very low salt but I believe it is much higher. I am going to have it tested again today but last week it was 2500 and I have since put in two bags. Not sure if the low salt is why the lights stay on but I thought they would flash. I understand I need to get a correct reading of the salt before maybe being able to determine what is going on but no power upon startup seems to be something else.

2200
81
32.4
0
70
0
al 0
15.5
t9

Does it seem like maybe a bad board and display? As I was messing with it yesterday I did accidentally change it to a T15 which I read would cause this probably but I changed it back and The T9 reading is what matches my cell.

Thank you

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SWG before multiport?

You'll have to reconfigure the plumbing between your multi-port valve and that ball valve to accommodate the SWG, in the orientation it needs to be in, and in such a way that you can get at it (for servicing). It's possible, but it'll take some doing. Something like this might work, keeping it and its plumbing all horizontal. But they can be mounted vertically, too, if that's all there is room for. You'll probably have to replace that ball valve. Let's see what others have to say.

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