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Boston_Pool · Saturday at 9:03 PM

ajw22 said:
Greater massage pressure from the jets.

Can you run the spa water jets for massage without the air bubbles?

Right now if the spa pump is on (single speed) -- the water in the spa circulates but doesn't really provide any benefits. The bubbles of course provide that (bubbles come out of the jets).

Downside of the bubbles is it is loud.

mpmillermg · Saturday at 9:02 PM

I have a Pentair MasterTemp 250 LP and I am having a Ignition Error when trying to turn the heater on the pool. I have had the heater going on four years, it worked fine last year and once
I opened the Pool this year it worked one or two days and now it will not stay on. I have troubleshot just about everything I have read that can give you and ignition error. When I turn the heater on the blower comes on, and then you hear a click and the rumbling sound of the igniter igniting the gas. Heat comes out of the exhaust for about 5 seconds and then shuts off, the heater cycles this like three times and then quits and shows the error code.

1. I checked my propane level in the tank and it is at 40%.
2. I replaced the air flow switch.
3. I replaced the ignition control switch.
4. I bypassed the AGS and high limit switch with a jumper and still got the error.
5. I checked the igniter with my ohm meter and it read at 96ohms so it is still good.
6. I tested the gas pressure coming into the inlet side of the gas control valve with an analog manometer. It started off at about 10in./wc before I turned the heater on, when the heater lights it drops to about 4 in./wc and when the heater shuts off the pressure goes up to about 15 in./wc. Then the heater will try to light again and it will drop to about 4 in./wc . I read its not suppose to drop more than 2 or 3 in./wc when it lights but it still should stay on right, just burn rich.
6. I tested the gas pressure on the manifold side(see video) below it does not drop to a negative reading when it fires up.
Login to view embedded media Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.

Boston_Pool · Saturday at 9:02 PM

ajw22 said:
I recommend a heater bypass be installed at each heater.

Heater Bypass - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Having two heaters will increase the “head” restriction and require increased pump speed and flow. Bypassing a heater when not in use will reduce the load on the pump.

Thanks! That was my feeling. But even with bypasses it seems like best practice is heat pump then LP.

PoolStored · Saturday at 9:01 PM

See that link for other potential issues and solutions.

ajw22 · Saturday at 9:00 PM

JohnT said:
The normal process is a blower to pull the liner tight to the frame, then straighten the wrinkles. Add water slowly with the blower running, tweaking the liner as needed. It can be tricky getting older liner to fit again.

Is a blower used on an AGP liner?

JohnT · Saturday at 8:59 PM

The normal process is a blower to pull the liner tight to the frame, then straighten the wrinkles. Add water slowly with the blower running, tweaking the liner as needed. It can be tricky getting older liner to fit again.

Lake Placid · Saturday at 8:57 PM

Arowdy1 said:
Also I'm noticing I have more jets from pump into pool that I do not see any water movement thru them. Please tell me that's not hard to fix .

In addition to what Allen posted, I note you have only 1 return pipe originating from your pump with no visible manifold. Likely the returns are plumbed in series vs individual runs back to the pump. Consequently the returns furthest from the pump may flow little if at all. If you check the returns for clogs as Allen suggested and none are present, you can likely increase flow if needed by installing return “eyeballs” with a smaller diameter outlet in the closest returns to the pump ( or those returns that are flowing the most now) to restrict flow and provide more flow to the farther returns (or those that are flowing less).

ajw22 · Saturday at 8:55 PM

Boston_Pool said:
Would it make sense to have each heater isolated with a valve, or allow the water to flow through the LP heater all summer?

I recommend a heater bypass be installed at each heater.

Heater Bypass - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Having two heaters will increase the “head” restriction and require increased pump speed and flow. Bypassing a heater when not in use will reduce the load on the pump.

gwater · Saturday at 8:53 PM

PoolStored said:
Clean, inspect and replace if necessary, the union on the suction side of the pump.

For more see this:

Pump Basics - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

That's a good shout, thank you. I have inspected and cleaned - looks to be in good shape. I will apply lube before putting it back together

ajw22 · Saturday at 8:53 PM

Boston_Pool said:
Can you tell me a little more about what you mean? Right now I just get a spa experience from air bubbles -- what would the increased HP add?

Really appreciate the feedback! Thanks

Greater massage pressure from the jets.

Can you run the spa water jets for massage without the air bubbles?

PoolStored · Saturday at 8:48 PM

Welcome to TFP!!!

Great place to start...Link-->Pool Care Basics

Sincerely,
PoolStored.

Boston_Pool · Saturday at 8:47 PM

ajw22 said:
Jandy also recommends the HP before a gas heater.

View attachment 642752

View attachment 642751

Would it make sense to have each heater isolated with a valve, or allow the water to flow through the LP heater all summer?

Boston_Pool · Saturday at 8:46 PM

ajw22 said:
It all depends on the spa jet experience you desire.

You can always crank down a 3 HP to what you enjoy. You can't crank up the 1.5 HP if it disappoints.

Can you tell me a little more about what you mean? Right now I just get a spa experience from air bubbles -- what would the increased HP add?

Really appreciate the feedback! Thanks

jballer · Saturday at 8:44 PM

Hi TFP - thanks for your wealth of guidance. Bought a house and inherited a pool built in 2014, and I'm now a year into self-maintaining with the help of Pool Math and an initial SLAM.

Some of the things on the list that I haven't tackled and would be good to know if they're urgent:
- Haven't done anything with the heater. It sounds like I should descale annually? Is it worthwhile to aggressively bypass it when not heating? When adding chemicals?
- Calcium level is getting high (550+). Utility has pretty hard water, do people hire tankers for refilling? I'm on septic and along a ravine, I figure I just run a hose and let it run down into the trees?
- Apparent leaks and algae growth around the base of spa spillover waterfall.
- Spa return jets still bubble a bit while the air blower is off
- Limestone coping is eroding in spots, unsure whether it's worth trying to fill+seal

Regards,

Jon

20k-gal + 1k-gal spillover spa
Controller: Pentair EasyTouch
Filter: Hayward C5030 with cartridges
Heater: Hayward H400
Outskirts of Austin, TX

schwichb · Saturday at 8:44 PM

Excellent, thank you again for the quick follow-up. The new "adapters" ordered. I'll make sure to post back here on my results

PoolStored · Saturday at 8:41 PM

Wire the superlflow the same way that you wired the single speed. It will behave like your singlespeed from that perspective. It will turn on and off just like your singlespeed, and continue the program that is programmed. Change your programming back to what you had. It should work, just like your singlespeed.

Bigirm · Saturday at 8:37 PM

PoolStored said:
Pentair and Hayward to not play nice together. You will have to use multiple relays and wire it a special way to use the programs on the VST. And your relays are already being used.
You have it working now, I'd leave my pump and run it 24/7 at low speed. That's the way I, and many other here do.
Running 24/7 will give you freeze protection.
Just turn the output% on the cell to match your needs and run pump 24/7 at low speed.
Good to go.

I understand what you are saying but I see two problems. One getting the salt cell to get the chlorine right, and two the freeze protection needs to alternate between the pool and the spa due to some above ground piping and two automatic valves. The way it was the pump would run the pool for twenty minutes and the shut off. Valves would switch, pump back on for the hot tub for twenty minutes and then repeat until temp goes above 35 degrees.

martin Coffey · Saturday at 8:31 PM

Matt, I am interested in the bromide issue. I can't seem to find any info on the internet specific to swimming pools. I know that the two sanitisers are not to be mixed (bromine for a spa and chlorine for a pool), but wans't aware of the 74 ppm of bromide in seawater. Is it your understanding that the 74 ppm bromide is substantial in the water balance/chemistry? I suppose it is a relatively high number against the 5 or so ppm of free chlorine. Also does it lead to the production of chloramines?

Schaeper · Saturday at 8:29 PM

ajw22 said:
You still stuck?

@ChrisABS ever see this?

Yup. Our pool builder is supposed to come out Wednesday so I’m hoping he can help me try to reset things!

Gnarbrah · Saturday at 8:20 PM

Just did the nighttime FC test and it's 7.5. Dropped about 1 throughout the day today. We shall see what the morning brings...

PoolStored · Saturday at 8:19 PM

Clean, inspect and replace if necessary, the union on the suction side of the pump.

For more see this:

Pump Basics - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

martin Coffey · Saturday at 8:18 PM

"Borates can help minimize pH rise in the cell." Must try adding a good dose of boric acid. I guess it will also help drop the pH without having to constantly add HCl. There is also a supplimental Astral liquid chlorine and HCl dosing system with ORP to keep the chlorine level up and the pH down (seawater is high pH). This pool is shallow, about 100k litres, heated to 28C and has a 40g/hr SWG running 24/7. It also needs 15L of liquid chlorine per week and other chlorine suppliments weekly. I do what I can to minimize the seawater circulation (very little sucking from the infinity tank) but with ferry boat wake waves washing into the pool occationally there is only so much I can do. As far as water balance readings are concerned I just use strips. Hardness is off the charts as would be expected. Like I say, the alkalinity is quite low even though the pH is aroung 7.8. Weekly chemicals I add are: Phosphate remover, Calstop (in the balance tank), Waterco Perox (every 3-4 weeks into the pool), Stabiliser (keep a low to moderate level), Benzo algaecide (lots of dark algae constanly trying to grow in the hoirizontal tile grout), black algae treatment (90% hypochlorinte), 5 x Chlorine tablets in the balance tank (minimal circulation throught the pool), HCl & liquid chlorine in the dosing reservoirs. It's insane.

JamesW · Saturday at 8:18 PM

aday31 said:
Can a pool store measure that if I bring in a water sample?

They can, but it is not reliable.

We recommend your own testing with a good test kit.

TF-Pro Salt

tftestkits.net

PoolStored · Saturday at 8:16 PM

Videos:

TF100TestKit

The TF-100 sets the standard for excellence in Pool Testing Kits. It contains 7 separate tests to give you accurate readings on each important pool water parameter.

www.youtube.com

Instructions:

Extended Test Kit Directions Archives

www.troublefreepool.com

kimkats · Saturday at 8:11 PM

This one will teach you want all of the letters mean:

TFPC for Beginners

TFPC for Beginners TFPC stands for Trouble Free Pool Care. The TFPC method of taking care of your pool focuses on using simple techniques that don't cost too much and work reliably in nearly all situations. Using TFPC, you avoid putting anything in your water that you don't need and which may...

www.troublefreepool.com

we got you and SO understand what you are going through right now as we have all been there!!!

ajw22 · Saturday at 8:10 PM

Maybe I will do better on my second try.

Checkout this..

GloBrite Adapter | Easy Jandy HydroCool to Pentair GloBrite Light Conv

Upgrade your pool lighting effortlessly with the GloBrite Adapter—a 100% silicone, durable, and easy-to-install solution for fitting a Jandy HydroCool light into a Pentair GloBrite niche. Tested in 100+ pools. Order now!

globriteadapter.com

kimkats · Saturday at 8:09 PM

Hi and welcome to TFP! I have just the link for you!

Hold on while I pull them up:

I want you to NOT have anything in your mouth while reading this one:

So you are new to testing

Ladies and Gentlemen, boys and girls, AH-64 Apache attack helicopters…… It’s that time of year again with an influx of newbs either getting a late start or coming to us trying to undo what hasn’t been working. First of all, I’d like to welcome you all. You’re gonna love it here. We will...

www.troublefreepool.com