Updating/Upgrading Pool Systems

One reason is the trapped organics use up chlorine until they are destroyed or cleaned from the filter. But with a SWG and cheap electricity that is less of an issue.
Organics in a pool, whether they are in the pool or trapped in the filter will consume HOCl. Doesn't matter where they are. The filter cleaning is the issue. Larger filters require less frequent cleaning. In this case, in Florida, pool builders tend to install 150sqft or 200sqft filters which require more frequent cleaning than larger filters, and we get new FL members all the time complaining about frequency of cleanings. We also recommend the use of hairnets/skimmer socks to reduce filtration load. We have many members with large (30K+ gallon) pools and clean once, or maybe twice a year.

Our recommendation is to install the largest filter you can afford and will fit on your pad. Cartridge/DE/Sand is more of a personal preference. Either way, less frequent cleanings, more trouble free.

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Pool Chemistry:
Why go big and go cartridge- see "pool filter sizing":
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Pool Patio Chipping

Looks like the previous owner just took an old concrete deck and had it skim coated with a cement/sand(aggregate)/color mixture. Basically like slapping a coat of paint on moldy drywall to make it look new enough until the ink on the check dries and they’re long gone.

As Alan said, you’d need to strip the deck using sand blasting equipment (expensive and messy … be sure nearby structures are masked and protected) and take it down to the underlying concrete. What you put on top of that is your choice but a good acrylic overlay, like KoolDeck, could then adhere well and last many, many years. It’s all in the surface prep - get it down to the underlying concrete and see what’s there. Then look at recoating options.

[SWG] I've been running my 2.6 HP pump at full speed for 10 hrs/day for years. Should I be using low speed for part of the day?

Is there no reason to run at full speed, except to drive a cleaner robot?
Usually heaters need more flow too. But if low speed is accomplishing what you need done, its foolish to spend 10X (?) more on high speed.
I don't know if lower speeds means less chlorine generation.
Swgs are either off or on. The % is how much of the 10 hours they are on. 50% of 10 hours is 5 hours on, in an on off on off on off cycle.
I got the 10 hours figure from the swg tables to generate enough chlosing
No table/chart knows what the weather is doing, or which point it is in the season. The season starts with low FC loss and gradually increases to peak loss, before falling for the back half of the season. Imagine a bell curve. You mid season in FL is very long and relatively constant for that part, but there is still a before and after. The SWG barely needs to run to make 1ppm a day and needs to run 4x much or maybe even 5x as much in the mid season for you.

Screenshot_20240530_071853_Chrome (1).jpg

Screenshot_20240530_071853_Chrome (1).jpg

Cya high

How about some historical test results so that we can see where the chemistry has been?

A current set of numbers is only a snapshot and it does not give us a history.

Get a good test kit and post the results and we can possibly help if you are willing to follow the recommendations.

Pool Care Basics

Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

SLAM Process

PoolMath

FC/CYA Levels

Test Kits Compared







[SWG] I've been running my 2.6 HP pump at full speed for 10 hrs/day for years. Should I be using low speed for part of the day?

You run the pump for a reason.

Does low speed make the skimmer door bob away ?

Does low speed activate the SWG ?

If so, theres no reason for high speed so you should save gobs of money running low speed.
I don't get an error from the swg for low flow, but the way you are describing, it sounds like I should be running at low speed all the time then. Should I not even split the running time between two modes? Is there no reason to run at full speed, except to drive a cleaner robot?

Also, does running the pump at slow speed require running it longer? I got the 10 hours figure from the swg tables to generate enough chlorine. I don't know if lower speeds means less chlorine generation.

Draining Fiberglass Pool to Fix Main Drain Leak

Thanks for the feedback. Given that I can see when the water level is below the pool I was a little less concerned about the upward pressure and thinking about preventing the floor from buckling. I am going to go with the garbage can idea and brace the walls all around using two foot strips of 3/4 inch plywood and 2x4. From poking around the web it seems about half way up is the place to put the braces.

I assume that when I drain the pool the spa side will stay filled. Am I correct on that one?

Any thoughts as to what I should have purchased before draining the pool? Obviously a new drain. I believe it is piped 1.5 inch so will pick up some pipe and was planning on using Christy's Red Hot Pool Pro PVC Cement. A few sweep elbows. Anything else I should have on hand?

I know there is some debate as to using silicone vs a gasket when sealing the drains and was planning to go the silicone route. Any countering thoughts? I know I should be sanding the area smooth before installing the drain. How long would you normally wait before refilling?

I appreciate the guidance so I can keep my pool :cool:

Cya high

You need a proper test kit. I suggest the TF-100/Pro or Taylor K2006C. A proper test kit is needed to get the accurate water chemistry results needed to follow the TFP protocols.

Once you get your test kit, run a full set of tests and post them here.

Plaster erosion is normally due to low CH, low TA, low pH, and / or the use of granulated acidic products in the area of erosion.

Sand in the pool!!! Intex pump

Update: I ended up emptying it once again, but this time used a shop vac to do most of the work. Saved my back. Inspected the laterals again and pipe and no visible cracks. But I decided to grab my old 12” tank and look at the laterals and noticed they were a lot tighter in the fins, which would prevent the sand to go through. I looked at this new one 16” tank the laterals were a lot more open. Now I don’t know if the #20 sand I used changed over the years, but it was obvious it could make it through the slats/fins on the laterals versus my old 12”. The manual says use#20 sand, but obviously it makes through.

I ended up buying #16 sand and of course now it works fine. Not sure how well the filtration will be with a coarser sand, but at least now the system is up and running and no sand in the pool.

Will see as the season progresses if it does a decent job cleaning the pool.

I ended up vacuuming 15 lbs of sand from the pool floor :(
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How to Fix Severe Algae and Cloudiness After 1 Year Without Vacuuming

Hey zicklag and Welcome !!! :wave:


With bad data, you are flying blind. There are no two ways about it. The fact that other people fly blind in no way, shape, or form makes it a smart choice for you.

The test kit is a one time hit, mostly for the parts you need. Refills go on sale for mid $40s each spring and its much easier to swallow.

Either kit at TFTESTKITS.NET is a better value than the Taylor equivalent, with both of them using the same reagents.

You'll want the SLAM option from TFT that doubles the FC tests. You'll be doing a bunch of them to clear the pool and blow through the supplies that normally last all season.

The smart stir thats included in the TFpro but not the other 3 kits is a must have so add that if you aren't getting the TFpro.

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