pjt said:

GPM isn't that useful. You'll have to experiment to determine the minimum RPM that closes the flow swtich. Keep lowering the pump speed until you get a red flow light. Add 100-200 RPM and use that as your RPM floor.

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Really? I swear my manual says GPM minimum is 20.

pjt said:

That's common and quite possible. Makes sense to start troubleshooting there. The o-ring and the mating surfaces must be clean. Apply a thin coat of lube.

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Got it!

pjt said:

Main drains don't really do that. The suction is too weak and dispersed.

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I don’t mean leaves and large debris, but the dust and floating particles that make their way to the bottom, right?

pjt said:

Aladdin Magic Lube II Silicone

https://www.amazon.com/Magic-Lube-II-Silicone-oz/dp/B0030CVCJI

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Thank you!

ajw22 said:

False advertising, but ok.

Available Accessories

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see link below...this is what mine looks like and i've attached images. the actual model when you zoom in on mine is


so i have no idea if they gave me the wrong one but it came from the factory with the unit. at least in the photo from their shop it showed this box on top of the heat pump.

i'll reach out to aquacal tomorrow and ask them how to confirm but it looks like the links above.

If you've considered automation, there is new Core Series that was recently released that offers, "advanced automation designed for seamless integration with your existing pool setup. This WiFi-enabled chlorine generator ensures your pool stays clean, balanced, and easy to manage—all from your smartphone."

We've had a few members install them recently. What's frustrating is there's no way to set SWG scheduling via the app. I'm guessing in the future there will be more features and integration with other devices. Here's a link if you're interested.

Sorry, not trying to be rude, but you keep ignoring the advice that people give and keep posting the same issue.

People are genuinely trying to help, but we can't if you don't want to provide the necessary information.

Jen102100 said:

Is that considered etching?

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I doubt it.

Jen102100 said:

Can it be fixed with balancing the chemicals.

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You have to identify the stain first to know.

Jen102100 said:

It feels like it needs to be sanded

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That is always an option.

ajw22 said:

Not from high CYA.

Could be organic from lack of chlorine or metals staining.

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Is that considered etching? Can it be fixed with balancing the chemicals. It feels like it needs to be sanded

JamesW said:

Are you just going to keep posting the same problem every year and ignore the advice?

We are wasting our time if you are not going to get a good test kit and begin to follow the recommendations.

Spots on pool

Does anyone know what this is??? Seems like rough holes in my plasterp

www.troublefreepool.com

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wow! Pretty friggin rude

Enzodast said:

Hey guys it's been a fun few days now that I see the light at the end of the tunnel.

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I've been following along with you. TFP survives with the support of our members. There are no annoying pop-up and ads. Please consider supporting TFP as you're able:

Enzodast said:

But please check my numbers...I think I'm pretty good on everything even the FC of 5.

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I can't see your numbers. Feel free to post a full set of results next time you test. Vinyl pools are a bit easier to manage. Keep numbers within recommended ranges. We do recommend lower TA with SWG pools to mitigate scale in the cell. Shoot for the 60-80 range.

I like to run FC a bit hot. There's not harm in doing so and keeping FC a bit high gives you a bit of a cushion. I make it easy and target about 10% of my CYA. When my CYA is at 80 ppm, I target an FC of 8 ppm.

I'm glad things are going well!

ScreenLogic is PC only. No Mac support for it.

Bperry said:

A well should be contributing zero copper to your pool water. If it is, it’s contaminated and shouldn’t be used anymore. If u you oh haven’t been adding algaecides, Clorox chlorine, or using mineral systems, then more than likely Leslie’s test is wrong.

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Just liquid chlorine and acid so far because our pH was high- the guy at Leslie’s said that it could be something in our system corroding, it’s been high on 2 separate tests (second test was higher). I’m going to have them test again this week just to see if it went up again.

Don't worry about it if you have no staining.

Leslie's testing is never accurate.

Perfect, thanks for the sanity check folks!

Enzodast said:

ive learned that myself but the label literally says check valve and its what they call it.

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False advertising, but ok.

ajw22 said:

Welcome to TFP.



No


Yes.

Do you have staining?

What type of filter do you have? If you have a cartridge file, what color is the cartridge?

Show us pictures of what your pool looks like.

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I don’t think there’s any staining? We have a sand filter

Those liners can be awful heavy. 85 degrees ambient is recommended and a heat gun for any problematic corners or radiuses if necessary.

BigLebowski said:

1. I was told the pool cover anchors won’t work unless the pavers are mortared in. Maybe it’s possible to screw the anchors in much deeper into the concrete slab so they don’t move. Or, maybe the first set of pavers could be mortared in and the rest laid on compacted sand. Would the transition look ok, especially if we used polymeric sand instead of grout.

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Use Long Deck Anchors or 9" Pipe Anchors that will go through the paver into the concrete below.

ajw22 said:

That is not a check valve. That is a bypass valve to keep the flow into the heater below 70 GPM.

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ive learned that myself but the label literally says check valve and its what they call it. its not a normal check valve but either way it being installed backwards was my issue as it was forcing i think water back into the heater and it was choking on itself if that makes sense.

ok, yeah, fair point.... My current SWG is 1.37 lb/day and it's been fine for 17 years. So I thought the 2.0 lb/day would be more than enough. I suppose I was enticed by the ease of installation of the Core unit. Only 2 cuts and done as it has a built in flow sensor. I suppose there are pros/cons of that as I had to replace my flow sensor in my old unit twice in 17 years. Not sure if it is replaceable in the Core.

That is not a check valve. That is a bypass valve to keep the flow into the heater below 70 GPM.

A sacrificial anode does not prevent rust.

It is a myth that stainless steel does not rust.

You probably have waterline corrosion.

What material is your ladder made of?

Read Corrosion - Further Reading

tomas21 said:

Pumps 80-100-%. Pump is original (~2yrs) and pumps like it did from day 1.

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It's not the pump, the pump tube breaks down over time on the rollers and is an easy replacement

@PoolStored @Rancho Cost-a-Lotta
Hey guys it's been a fun few days now that I see the light at the end of the tunnel.

Finished slam...CC is 0 and tested everything. Added salt this morning and just tested everything I could. Salt is at 3200. My swg recommends 3500 so I'll add another bag or two tomorrow. That said I'm ready to then on swg in am.

Biggest issue so far was the heater... They installed the check valve backwards. The amount of work that ensued and anguish from me the last 3 days is wild. Tried figuring out every possible reason the heater wouldn't stay running. Kept changing pump rpms....kept cleaning the filter (FULL open and clean and recharge DE. Did it probably 3 times thinking the gunk in pool was putting to much pressure and not sending water to the heater). Also thanks again for tip on the timer... I actually taught my 30 year experienced electrician something new about a timer he's installed a thousand times. Ill set up swg to run 12 hrs and monitor FC levels next several days.

Fixed the check valve today and heater brought pool temp from 68 to 75 before I shut it off for the night (gonna be 46 tonight in CT). I'll turn it back on again tomorrow when it heats up im very curious to see how well my solar blanket is going to protect the water temp btw I'll report back on that too.

But please check my numbers...I think I'm pretty good on everything even the FC of 5. Pool math didn't say anything wrong with that...we did have rain which I think brought down my ph so I'll monitor that. But besides getting the swg dialed in and maybe getting salt up to 3500 slowly. Anything else I need to do right now to say my transition from chlorine only to salt and conversion of single speed pump to vs...adding the swg and adding the heater...I think I'm at the home stretch!!?

Also I am loving the test kit from TF. OMG I can't wait to do my next full test with my 8 and 10 year old girls who wonder when science would ever be relevant in life....watch some color changing reactions!

Oh last thing I successfully had the heater running after fixing the check valve for 8 straight hours. It. Brought pool temp up 7 degrees on a 70 degree day...im thrilled with that. And pump was barely moving only 2000 rpms and 400 or so watts to achieve that. Would love to have the heater show it's wattage draw but not possible with what I have.

Thanks!

What model pump, valve, and filter are we discussing?

Does it all come as a set?

Is this going to an AGP?

Look at the claimed chlorine production. The RJ60 is at 2.7 lb per day while the Core 55 is 2.0 lb per day. That should make your decision a little easier. Not sure what's going on with the RJs, but the RJ60 used to be rated at 3.1 lb per day. The CircuPool site still shows that higher rating while the Discount Salt Pool site shows the lower rating.

I will say that I'm very happy with my RJ. With the exception of a failed flow switch, the unit has been super strong and dependable. When I did have problems with the flow switch, CircuPool was very responsive and helpful.