berger said:

ECO ONE hose filter

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Hose filters are really expensive chlorine removers. Yours filters to 20 microns which is somewhere between a sand filter and carts/de.

We'd be having members pump through them if they removed anything else and nobody would spend $1000 on RO or drain/refill their pools. Yours claims it could do your pool 4X.

I can't see the entire pool in those pictures, do you have a ladder? Light?

Here's photos. Not that you can really see much. It's clean. Just cloudy.

Losing zero FC overnight. Reading 0 CC. CYA is 30. Been keeping FC at 16ppm, checking adding chlorine at 3-4 hour intervals. Bushing what i can see.

This is at least the 8th time opening and i have never had it take this long.

Bperry said:

What if a mosquito lands on your arm while pouring? Do you swat it with the left or the right hand?

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I pour acid on it. Duh.

*not on purpose. Becuase I flailed at it from muscle memory of not holding acid 99.9999% of the time.

The only seawater pools I have heard of are continuous recycling from the ocean.

Ah … they are using seawater in this pool.

Very bad idea.

Seawater has all sorts of dissolved minerals in it. The precipitation is going to be horrendous. Also, seawater has a significant enough bromide concentration in it that you will be creating bromine in your pool. Bromine is very unstable towards UV and uses up any chlorine you generate by constantly converting bromide to bromine.

It’s really not a good idea to use seawater for electrolytic chlorine generation.

Newdude said:

No for real. If the bending over for a long slow pour is the problem i would build something to pour waist high. I'd probably use 3/4 PVC with some reducers (expanders?) on one end for a redneck funnel.

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Maybe. But something about trying to pour from a gallon jug of acid into a funnel even from waist high leaves lots of opportunities for splashes and spills onto the decking, or clothing. I can barely pour chlorine in the water without finding a white bleached dot on my nice pants sometimes.

What if a mosquito lands on your arm while pouring? Do you swat it with the left or the right hand?

Newdude said:

Let it go, the crud the filter traps acts as the new filter and traps finer crud. A dirty filter works better to the moment it reduces flow.

This is the sand filters cross to bear, that it takes longer to get to the same point, but IMO all 3 filters eventually filter to your yards ability, not the filter itself.

I think that every spring slam has some degree of crossover and its impossible to tell if its 50/50 or 90/10.

There's nothing the company did to make gel coat cracks, especially deep ones.

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Thanks for the reply, I will monitor the gel coat cracks carefully, maybe they were there since install, can't seem them when the jets are running.

Thanks for the info on algae, I am still slamming after 1 week and it's incredible how much clearer the water is after 1 week, the method really works.

Sorry, I didn't get any notifications after the first response. I have since found a smaller Hayward S166T tank which I got from a co-worker years ago when he got rid of his 21ft round pool (it was stuffed away and I forgot I had it). Is this smaller tank okay to use with my 1hp pump for awhile? I realize it'll have less filtering capacity and require more frequent backwashing, but my old one was probably going 3 to 4 weeks between backwashing or I would just backwash it because I needed to drain down the water level anyway. My plumbing is flexible, so no worries on that.

Secondly, is there some product to spray on plastic to protect it from the sun to last longer? My homemade chlorine tank (a 5 gallon Lowes bucket & lid) also cracked open. I suppose the best protection would come from being under a roof covering of some sort?

Thanks,
Garry

With Jandy they recommend setting a 5 minute break between stop and restart. Works great for me and I did have issues when it was the same stop/start time. There is no way to continuously run that I have found.

Also Jandy has a default or "Pool" speed where it automatically goes to when first turned on. Mine is set for 1500 RPMs.

Set it to 12a to 11:59p
Or set overlapping timers:

My Polaris never gets stuck on anything.

Mine is 27 mil.

Oh yeah its like Caribbean water lol

The white line at the tiles isn’t so much “scale” from a chemical imbalance but more a consequence of evaporation and precipitation. As water evaporates at the interface of the tile and waterline, some dissolved solids, like calcium, salt, silicates, etc, will precipitate out of solution. That scale gets deposited on the tiles. Nothing will stop that because concentration changes, not chemical ones, drive the process. This is why spillover spa faces will always develop a white crust of evaporite.

The best you can do is always try to maintain a low saturation index to promote dissolved solids staying in the solution and then scrubbing the tile line regularly. Tile cleaners can help keep tiles clean, but they require regular application and lots of elbow grease.

I ran your numbers it is about 16K
According to pool math.
128oz of 10% LC will add 6.2ppm of FC in a 16000 gallon pool.
Which is about what happened. You had 2, add 6.2 and tested 8.5.
Your volume is probably about 15,000. (your 6.2 added a bit more).
Start with that volume.

Thanks - but that’s exactly what I did! I have 16k in my signature because that’s what the builder put in the paperwork. I’ve tried to use some of the online tools to try and get a better capacity but they usually tell me 20k gallons.

Andrewp said:

So it is possible that I need to add CaCl2 as Pool Math suggests, even though I have calcium scale?

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Yup, you need at least 200-250 ppm of CH to protect your plaster.

Andrewp said:

Which, btw, occurs everywhere under the water, not just the waterline.

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That looks like a mixture of Efflorescence - Further Reading coming through your grout lines and Waterline Scale Removal - Further Reading

It could be useful to do a bucket test with and without the pump running.

If you detect a leak only when the pump is running or the leak is larger with the pump running, then the leak is likely on the return side of the pump in an unseen part of the plumbing.

If you detect a leak only when the pump is not running, then the leak is likely on the suction side of the pump and would explain the air leak on the suction side as well.

If you detect the same amount of leakage with both the pump running and not running, the leak is likely somewhere other than the plumbing such as the pool shell or plaster/PVC interface.

tenkas said:

I clean it everyday, pressure doesn't rise up to 25

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Let it go, the crud the filter traps acts as the new filter and traps finer crud. A dirty filter works better to the moment it reduces flow.

This is the sand filters cross to bear, that it takes longer to get to the same point, but IMO all 3 filters eventually filter to your yards ability, not the filter itself.

tenkas said:

lot of it is from a tree that is near.

But I suspect also dead algae.

What do you guys think?

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I think that every spring slam has some degree of crossover and its impossible to tell if its 50/50 or 90/10.

tenkas said:

Also found more cracks in the pool.

Getting very stressed because company closed down (was opened for 40 years so I trusted them).

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There's nothing the company did to make gel coat cracks, especially deep ones.