The TF100 from the same place is about $80 and has 2.7X the supplies of the comparable priced K2006 (no C).

We highly recommend the stirrer which is included in the Pro kit but can be purchased separately. Swirling by hand gets old and the stirrer really makes a difference for consistency and accuracy.

You want the salt version of the TF100 (forgot that part). The cell isnt as accurate as it uses conductivity to determine salinity and you don't want to dose from a guess. Salt doesnt come out easily if you over do it.

Melnox said:

I'm not sure if others do this as well?

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terzene1 said:

Thanks for this, sorry for my ignorance, based on the photos above does it look like it’s wired correctly? If so it just seems like I just need to put the heater into pool BO mode?

Click to expand...

It is easy enough to give it a try and find out.

Bperry said:

Wouldn’t recommend swim universities recommendations. You don’t need any calcium in AGP. Also, pH down is damaging to salt cells and anything metal (if your pool walls are metal?) don’t use it anymore.

The chlorine needs to be tested with a FAS-DPD kit to be accurate. If the water is brand new, then there will be no CYA, but if you’ve been using chlorine pucks or powder, then it’s likely not zero. Post up what test kit your using for more detailed info.

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I’m using the Clorox 6 way test strips. Should I not use swim university app at all? I’d be glad to not spend the $50/yr subscription. Lol

I have an automated system that tells us salt n what level we have our chlorine set too, but the kit on here is &170+ is there a kit I can get that isn’t so expensive?

Uhhello said:

How are you getting your salt levels? You need to use a drop test to get good salt levels if you haven't.

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I have since bought the Clorox salt test strips. Put about an inch of pool water in a cup and put the strip in. The water leaches up the test strip and where the peak of the white line is you compare that number to the chart on the bottle.

SusanHRN said:

Should I have a pool fill company fill the pool prior to the techs coming out to remove the cover and complete the pool opening?

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Yes, water level should be 1/2 way up the opening of the skimmer.

However, with the water down 3 feet, there is likely a leak in the liner. With 5 years of no attendance, water should be overflowing in CT.
Is there a cover on the pool?
Is there a fixture on the pool wall where the current water line is?

Can you post picture of what you can? Pool and equipment pad? That would help us...

If you can, fill out your signature:

ajw22 said:

With the DTH101 you will have no thermostat control over the H400FDN heater in bO mode.

The heater will continually heat until 104F.

The DTH101 web page says:

You need to change the pool thermostat with this wifi thermostat. The pool thermostat is in circuit that turn your heater on or off and normally you can easily change the thermostat, but please check the pool heater thermostat before buying the unit.

The H400FDN Manual says:

2-wire remote control connection:
To configure the heater for 2- wire remote thermostat control, use the “MODE” key on the heater keypad
to put the control into “STANDBY” mode. Then press and hold both the “( - )” and “MODE” keys for 3 seconds
until the display shows the code “bo”.
On the remote control wiring terminal block (Figure 18), connect the appropriate wires from the remote
control to the terminals adjacent to the ORANGE wire (“POOL”) and WHITE wire (“24V”).
To operate the heater by remote thermostat, the heater’s control must be in either “POOL” or “SPA”
mode. The display will show “bo”. The “POOL” or “SPA” LED will be illuminated. The remote thermostat
will operate the heater. The heater’s thermostat will function to limit the water temperature to a maximum of
104°F.

Click to expand...

Thanks for this, sorry for my ignorance, based on the photos above does it look like it’s wired correctly? If so it just seems like I just need to put the heater into pool BO mode?

These leds are so expensive. If I can do any simple task to protect them I will.

Today I added a surge suppressor to my panel to protect the leds (and the other electronic equipment). I hope this helps. I'm not sure if others do this as well?

Resources...

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terzene1 said:

Understood, I’ll try to put it into bypass mode. The dth101 is a wireless remote controller. Wi-Fi Remote Gas pool Sauna Hot tub Heater Smart Thermostat/Timer program Temperature Contr

Click to expand...

With the DTH101 you will have no thermostat control over the H400FDN heater in bO mode.

The heater will continually heat until 104F.

The DTH101 web page says:

You need to change the pool thermostat with this wifi thermostat. The pool thermostat is in circuit that turn your heater on or off and normally you can easily change the thermostat, but please check the pool heater thermostat before buying the unit.

The H400FDN Manual says:

2-wire remote control connection:
To configure the heater for 2- wire remote thermostat control, use the “MODE” key on the heater keypad
to put the control into “STANDBY” mode. Then press and hold both the “( - )” and “MODE” keys for 3 seconds
until the display shows the code “bo”.
On the remote control wiring terminal block (Figure 18), connect the appropriate wires from the remote
control to the terminals adjacent to the ORANGE wire (“POOL”) and WHITE wire (“24V”).
To operate the heater by remote thermostat, the heater’s control must be in either “POOL” or “SPA”
mode. The display will show “bo”. The “POOL” or “SPA” LED will be illuminated. The remote thermostat
will operate the heater. The heater’s thermostat will function to limit the water temperature to a maximum of
104°F.

Correct. Turn SWG off.

Let FC come down to 16, then keep it there by checking and replacing chlorine frequently.

TA and CH don’t matter.

FC AND CC are your focus.

Follow the process...Link-->SLAM Process

SirSwimAlot said:

What system are you using? Did you have a local company install it or do it yourself?
You don't have issues how it feels swimming?

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If you could tell it was a salt-water pool, it'd only be a net positive. The idea that salt water pools are "bad" is just a myth. If anything, the water feels softer. The amount of salt in a typical pool is not that different than a salt pool, as almost everything you add contains salt.

I use a Circupool RJ60+. Installed myself - it's very simple and easy to use.

I'm kinda thinking that pool surface shouldn't be to hateful (10-15yrs and seen no evidence of plaster issues, smallish sauna will need special attention as usual) that a maybe a PebbleTec surface re-do, and break into the upper tile field feature lines and turning those buckets into colored deck pisser's on the upper deck and leave the waterfalls (They we'll have to be redone to a certain degree) on the secondary channel and put in an auto valve, and feature pump changed to 1hp Intelli. and controls through ungraded panel and re-level auto fill so new sundeck works probably. I have an almost new IC40 that warranty paid for last year, so I will keep that old tech in until it dies, and upgrade everything else....whatdaya think? Unfortunately, I had a landscaper couple yrs ago drop some big palm branches and cracked a few tiles on the wall to the right, so wall will probably be a redo, at least if I want to address it. Last but not least definitely a few bucks into a cool lighting system. Well........Any ideas good, bad, or different .....don't really want to fill it in due to summer wildfires, need/want that extra xtra.
Thanks in Advance!
Ps Sorry side note question for those who have done resurfacing and own pets, how much a problem having an empty pool around during the process (not while they're actually working, type thing)? I have a dog who won't go in the pool, but I do love the safety factor of having water there in case it were to happen.

OK, I got my test kit and I did the CYA test, the Chlorine ( FAS/DPD ) test, and I calibrated my digital PH meter and tested the PH, too.

The results:

CYA: 40
FC: 26
CC: 2.5
PH: 7.51 ( at surface of water, it was getting late so I didn't collect from 1 ft down, will check again tomorrow )

I have noticed since I last commented that the water gets clearer and clearer, so that I can see roughly 2 inches further down each day. it's still quite cloudy, but I can just barely see a very blurry outline of the vacuum head on the bottom of the pool now.

What are the next steps? It seems like the free-chlorine is beyond SLAM level at this point, so are we basically just waiting for that to clear up, running the filter constantly, and not running SWG at all, right?

Is Total Alkalinity an important thing to measure right now?

That will point us to algae or filters. May be both. Do FC and CC in the morning.

Covering your pool in the summer will drive the temperature up to 100F or higher. I would not recommend it unless you have an evaporative chiller.

Understood, I’ll try to put it into bypass mode. The dth101 is a wireless remote controller. Wi-Fi Remote Gas pool Sauna Hot tub Heater Smart Thermostat/Timer program Temperature Control

Welcome to the forum!

I suggest you read through Pool Care Basics - Trouble Free Pool and even look at a few of our videos TFP-TV - Trouble Free Pool

I believe those fittings are supposed to use 2 gaskets- one behind the liner and one between the liner and the plate.
There are several different hayward return fitting model numbers so you may want to verify.

PoolStored said:

Those are 50 micron filters.

Unicel, Pleatco, and Filbur are all large and reliable suppliers of filter cartridges, which are typically 10-20 micron.

Have you done an OCLT yet? Do that, let’s see where we are…link —>Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

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Ok I’m willing to try anything!
We can buy new filters that are 10-20 micron.
I usually test right before I go to bed but haven’t tried before the sun rises, by the time I test the sun is usually up. I’ll try to do it earlier tomorrow morning and log it.

Hey Nevromni and Welcome !!!!

If your top rail is level, i'd wager the liner isn't hanging perfectly stretched from the rails, one side stretched a little more than the other, or its level but slightly oval-ed.

We recommend 1 inch variance or less.

Looking for recommendation.. new 17k gallon in ground pebble tech auto covered saltwater pool, sports configuration, 6’ depth max with 9” Acapulco deck… Central Valley, California so lots of sun, heat, dust, sand, orchard pollen, foxtails, water bugs even a snake or two… Memorial Day sales and considering Aiper scuba x1 with surfer S2 but maybe the 180 micron mesh isn’t fine enough? Open to anything…. Thanks, Wally

If you cut flush, you'll have nothing to slip the into the union. You need that length of PVC to slip into the Union socket

When you do your measurements, make sure you include the length of the sockets of the connections. The sockets are generally 1 3/8 in to 1.5 in. The extra quarter inch gives you a little play. Make sure your cuts are straight.