Is your hayward pump a single speed or VS?

Are you 100% sure you don’t have a simple, fixable problem such as a bad capacitor? Ours needs replaced every few years. Super easy & cheap.

300winmag said:

My question is, at some point will the SLAM rid the pool of the stuff I’m stirring up? Or maybe the filter is supposed to catch it?

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Yes. How often are you brushing? Did you scrub behind the light? Under the drain covers?

Do me a solid and retest your CYA using these instructions:

Easy solution: Turn the filter cavity upside down so the drain plug is facing straight up in the air. It's easier if you set it on a 50 gallon trash can, if you can. Put a little bit of penetrating spray around the rim just a little though. Then take a heat gun and slowly warm up the outside of the drain. Be careful not to heat it up too much but just enough to get it warm that you see some of the penetrating oil start to go down inside and then take a pair of needle nose pliers with whatever left inside and spread them and work slowly counter clockwise and it should come out pretty easy.

Apparently you posted this twice. How about a plumber with a camera system to at least see where it is located at?

I tried calling the pool contractor twice today, starting before lunch. Both times, a very cheerful receptionist answered on the first ring, but I hit a snag when the receptionist took my info & transferred me to a manager. The first time I waited on hold for 15 min to no avail, and the second time I left my info for a call back, but that was hours ago, the store is closed for the day, and- big shock- no one called me back. I guess I’m in for a bit of a slog with them, which really isn’t a shock because we had some issues during the remodel, and I was hoping not to have to deal with them again. I’ve already gotten the “these are tough times to work in” and “it’s hard to find good help” spiels.

I’ve been reading all the resources y’all posted, and I’m quite confident that the spots in my plaster are not something that we caused. I’m sure the contractor will try to say it was us, though. So I’m looking for some tips on how to handle the upcoming negotiations.

1. Is there any reasonable scenario in which WE could have caused the white depressions/pits in our plaster, considering our PoolMath records? PoolMath Logs

2. The plasterer gave us a 3 year delamination warranty. Is this something that should be covered under that?

3. I know that NPT has very strict guidelines for maintaining plaster (specifically not allowing a negative LSI EVER)- Suppose the contractor looks at my PoolMath records and claims that I’ve messed up the plaster because my LSI has very occasionally been negative. How should I respond? I know that my chemistries have been just fine and that even on the occasions they’ve dropped below 0, they have haven’t been negative enough or kept there long enough to cause problems, but I don’t have a good way of “convincing” the contractor of all that.

4. Any other tips for dealing with a less than willing contractor?

I think that your pool is close to 34,000 lbs based on my calcs.
How are you testing your water. We recommend that you have your own kit. Recommended kits. Link-->Test Kits Compared

I would not make additions based on pool store testing.

It looks like that is the pattern it tends to run more than others or the only pattern it runs. Depending on which way it's running it's only making right turns or left turns. Is it the NASCAR version?

Seems like you should be able to push it out with something like a plumbing snake. Or get an endoscope (https://www.amazon.com/Teslong-Bore...-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&smid=AFI3X2X3YFS02&th=1) to see where it is, then dig out the pipe only in that spot and do a local repair.
Generally speaking you might be better off with a normal plumber instead of a pool guy.

Flo2 means the switch is reading closed when it should be open. Check the flow switch for function (open when it's off). New does not always mean good.
Check wiring and terminal for short.
Check back of circuit board for corrosion/debris/moisture.

That's a good one. Dig up an entire pool to unplug one pipe. And it's only $100000. Is that a today-only offer? Post pics of your pool from a couple of angles showing the skimmer and pics of the pool equipment from several angles.

setsailsoon said:

Folks,

Bad news again! I bought my S1 06 July '24. Sadly it was resting 5' from the wall yesterday with the red light blinking.

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Ah bummer. I had high hopes. I guess katodude had the right idea - get it on sale - buy the warranty and be able to justify the cost over the warranty period and assume it won’t outlast the warranty.

Disappointing…

Ummm...

amit a said:

The pump itself is functional

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How do you know if it doesn't turn on?

amit a said:

Relay is working

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Again, how do you know?

So, the relay does not respond to the button but the display does?
Check the topside wiring and connections. Is the overlay cracked or peeling?

JamesW said:

That should lower the Carbonate Alkalinity enough.

You are probably just worrying too much at the higher pH levels.

If the CSI is good, don't lower the pH.

Maybe get a pH meter to be really sure.

If the pH is below 8.3 and the CSI is below +0.2, then you should just leave the pH where it is.

Many people read the higher pH values as higher than they really are.

Most people over worry about higher pH when they could just leave it alone and do nothing.

Show your pH test and what you think it is.

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I have pool math

If I don’t do anything for about a week the ph will rise above 8.0 (Taylor drops) and tops out around 8.2 with a handheld digital ph meter.

At ph of 8.2 the CSI is essentially perfect and close to zero. I would love to just let the ph ride at 8.2 but I’ve never felt confident to do that based on things I’ve read online saying you shouldn’t leave the ph that high.

Does CSI trump everything else?
Is it possible for anything to go wrong if the CSI is normal?

Unfortunately no one is able to remove the plug. The entire pool needs to be excavated out and repiped. Quote is around ~100k which I do not have right now.

Should I drain the pool completely then and just cover it?

Thank you for the feedback @ajw22 . I was hoping for some less intrusive form of troubleshooting...I'm not comfortable pulling the pump apart even if my wife would let me (and she absolutely would NOT !!!). I'll check with our installer in the unlikely case that its under warranty.

No clue, never taken it apart. I think I'd probably try and get something to hook the filter and see if I couldn't get it pulled up through one of the openings, before trying to disassemble the tank.

Seeing that it is pumping without the injectors, I think the filter is probably fine, was just something I thought about and wanted to mention. I'd be looking at what is going on when the injector gets installed. How tight are you screwing down the fittings?

-- Jeff

Drain it and blow out the lines. Cover with a tarp.

For any CYA level you need to be free and clear of minimum FC at your next test/dose. Sometimes its not 24 hours and its 36 or 48.

But lets do a one day loss with 4 ppm mid season.

Minimum FC
+ 4ppm
+ 1 or 2 wiggle room FC
-------------------
= TFP clear.


4 ppm may last a week in the fall, but 6 hours in July. You adjust the daily target as necessary to achieve the never sniff minimum mission.