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Glacier chiller plumbing troubleshooting
- By ATXheat
- Everything Else
- 4 Replies
Hi folks - We had a new pool finished last fall, including a Glacier chiller. I'm just now trying the chiller, since the heat is picking up and I'm pretty sure it's not plumbed correctly. My equipment pictures are attached, but here is a diagram of how it appears to be set up:
As you can see, there are no check valves preventing back flow and also no dedicated return line. Given that the chiller was in the original plans, I believe the chiller should have had it's own dedicated return line. The way mine is currently plumbed, it looks like water will just bypass or cavitate in the chiller, since the chiller outlet will have back pressure from the bypass.
The guide also says you set the valves at 2 o'clock or so and leave them there all season and to only use the chiller with one variable pump speed. If that's the case, I would need to go move these valves every time we turn on the hot tub, because the filter pump runs at a much higher speed and will overflow the chillers. Their diagrams show either being able to bypass the chiller when running the hot tub or the dedicated return line.
I also read through this old thread which seems to confirm my setup is atypical.
Thoughts?
Kurt
As you can see, there are no check valves preventing back flow and also no dedicated return line. Given that the chiller was in the original plans, I believe the chiller should have had it's own dedicated return line. The way mine is currently plumbed, it looks like water will just bypass or cavitate in the chiller, since the chiller outlet will have back pressure from the bypass.
The guide also says you set the valves at 2 o'clock or so and leave them there all season and to only use the chiller with one variable pump speed. If that's the case, I would need to go move these valves every time we turn on the hot tub, because the filter pump runs at a much higher speed and will overflow the chillers. Their diagrams show either being able to bypass the chiller when running the hot tub or the dedicated return line.
I also read through this old thread which seems to confirm my setup is atypical.
Thoughts?
Kurt
Attachments
New to TFPC
- By brennerc
- Just Getting Started
- 20 Replies
I will test the CH again later today. I could very well have not followed the directions correctly. The CYA change is the difference between using test strips (that shows to be not accurate) against the new TF100 Pro Salt kit that I just received on Saturday afternoon and test for the first time Sunday afternoon. I am assuming that is more accurate.The test kit provides a number in 25 ppm increments.
156 is not a viable number.
Extended Test Kit Directions Archives
www.troublefreepool.com
How did your CYA go from 5 six days ago to 40 two/three days ago to 90 yesterday?
Your PoolMath logs show you added 12 pounds (192 oz) of dry stabilizer three days ago to your 36,000 gallon pool. That 12 pound addition would have raised CYA by 40.
Question about older dolphin model
- By PoolStored
- Pool Cleaners
- 10 Replies
My old DX3 wouldn't climb in my vinyl pool without them...had to replace those things every year ($40 OEM Covid pricing). Once it died, I went with a higher GPM robot without climbing wheels..now I don't replace them every year.I have a Gunite pool, so maybe they are needed for vinyl pools, but I doubt it..
Question about older dolphin model
- By Jimrahbe
- Pool Cleaners
- 10 Replies
B,
I had a Dolphin with "climbing rings"... After a couple of years they fell off.. I never notice any difference in the way the robot worked...
Just saying...
I have a Gunite pool, so maybe they are needed for vinyl pools, but I doubt it..
Give it a try and then decide,
Jim R.
I had a Dolphin with "climbing rings"... After a couple of years they fell off.. I never notice any difference in the way the robot worked...
Just saying...
I have a Gunite pool, so maybe they are needed for vinyl pools, but I doubt it..
Give it a try and then decide,
Jim R.
