Sorry, no one appears to have advice for your situation.

Sorry, no one appears to have advice for your situation.

Sorry, no one appears to have advice for your situation.

Below are prior Silane/Siloxane Sealer threads while you wait for replies...

Guppie,

Welcome to TFP! You've found the best place in the world to learn how to take care of your pool and get help with anything pool. What sets us apart is we have bonafide experts plus very experienced pool owners here to give you free advice and we sell nothing. Nada! So you never get conflicted advice. We also do things a LOT different than pool stores since we use generic chemicals not expensive pool store potions and your pool will be crystal clear always. Only thing you need to know is you need one of our approved test kits. We've tested most kits available and find these to be the best for average home owners and at a reasonable price. You can buy them at many outlets. Check out the link below for more details.

We'll need photos of your pool to give you the best advice and anything you can find on the chemicals that were used previously. Also if you can fill in your signature it will help us both get answers to you quickly and be efficient with our volunteer experts time. It's easy and here's how.

I hope you decide to use our methods. I did back in 2015 and some of the same people that helped me get started are still on here. Many people seem to join and stay 'till they sell their house. No matter what you do I'd strongly recommend you go through Pool Care Basics to understand our methods before getting the "free" pool store tests. Many people come here after they get "Pool Stored" and one of our experts even carries that name on her.

Hope this is helpful!

Chris
Pool Care Basics
Test Kits Compared

Long story short … if you want the ladder to last a long time, pull it out of the water periodically and rinse it well with fresh water focusing particularly on the areas where water can get trapped and stagnant.

mkmscr said:

The iAquaLink app is down. Can I adjust the chlorine production manually somehow at the panel? The AquaLink control panel is giving me a code of JA when I try to use the up/down arrow buttons to adjust. I assume because I have an AquaLink 2.0 module connected. Thank you.

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Nope.

ggezpz said:

Hi all,

Have not been able to find an answer for this admittedly fairly specific question on TFP. Thought I'd finally post.

So we have a pretty standard setup with a Jandy variable speed pump and rooftop solar. There is a solar actuator valve that turns on and off to allow water flow to the roof. BUT, the rooftop sensor is broken and I've not been able to find anyone willing to go up and replace it. Annoying, but what I've done the past few seasons instead is to run in "manual" mode. What I mean by that is, on a hot summer day, the pump runs the usual filtration and cleaning cycles (Presets 1 and 2) with the solar valve in the CLOSED position. Then, in the afternoon, I will go and manually toggle the solar (there is a box with ON, OFF, and AUTO settings) to ON, watch the actuator valve turn, then run the Heating cycle (Preset 3) on the pump controller. After a few hours, I turn off the pump, and switch the solar back to the OFF position.

So my question is this: do I need to be turning the solar back and forth between OFF and ON every single day I want to run a heating session? Or can it just stay in the ON position as long as we need to get the pool up to temperature? Will the solar valve being open affect operation of the filtration and cleaning cycles? Or does the pump "know" to not use that solar pipe in those cycles?

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As a temporary solution but better than manual, grab yourself a new thermistor and connect it to your solar controller at the pad. It wont work quite as well as with the thermistor at the location of the solar but better than the option of leaving the valve open or manually controlling it.

Thinking thru it a bit more, I would also trace the wire that goes to the roof, I would hazard a guess that the sensor is fine but the wire is broken somewhere. If your lucky it's broken before it reaches the roof

The only way you lost 70 CYA over 18 days was exchanging your pool volume. Do you have an auto fill ?

You can decide how many cheap generic knockoff flow switch assemblies you buy before it becomes worth buying a genuine Pentair flow switch assembly.

The quality of the generic knockoffs is unknown and they don't care about their reputation.

Much of what you’re seeing is physical damage to the steel surface coupled with structural crevices (places where the different pieces are bolted together). Crevice and pitting corrosion are very prevalent in all types of structure and are self-propagating… they don’t need any outside galvanic driving force. They are a single-metal/spatially-connected type of redox couple. The chloride ions in solution build up in the crevices and pits due to lack of solution flow and the chloride ion itself destroys the passivating layer. Once the iron is exposed to the electrolyte, the Fe2+/Fe3+ redox reaction is self motivated. The simplistic diagram below shows how it happens. Metallic iron exposed to the electrolyte is oxidized in the pit to ferrous iron and water/oxygen gets reduced to hydroxide. Iron metal can also be oxidized to its 3+ state where it readily reacts with hydroxides to form rust. The formation of Fe3+ can also induce the formation of Fe2+ in a redox couple. This is why rust tends to keep propagating into a metal surface even after there is no oxidizer like chlorine or oxygen around. Rust is also not an adherent oxide and there is a huge volume difference between rust and fresh metal so fresh iron is always being exposed as the oxide spalls off.

Bperry said:

Sounds like it just needs a new spider gasket?

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I may have changed that too. Ha. I have to go check my orders.

Start with checking your salt level using a salt test kit or meter.

Check the cell for scale. If it needs cleaning read SWG How It Works - Further Reading

The iAquaLink app is down. Can I adjust the chlorine production manually somehow at the panel? The AquaLink control panel is giving me a code of JA when I try to use the up/down arrow buttons to adjust. I assume because I have an AquaLink 2.0 module connected. Thank you.

is the heater still under warranty?

The Aviva heater has had teething problems as a new design. Have you contacted Raypak Support and discussed your problems with them?

Welcome to the forum.

This part looks like it was heated and it looks like mechanical damage.

If the issue was simply water balance, the stainless steel would be more uniformly oxidized.

The selective nature indicates something specific to those areas.

You might have some sort of general galvanic potential difference.

In my opinion, you can have a situation where you have a net inflow of electrons or a net outflow of electrons due to a DC voltage imbalance.

If you have a net inflow of electrons, your metals are protected like in Impressed Current Cathodic Protection.

In this case you get things like copper ions plating out on lights as copper metal.

If you have a net outflow of electrons, your metals will lose electrons and they will be oxidized and corrode at an accelerated pace.

You can get natural rectification of AC to DC.

For example, a heater uses an AC voltage to the flame sensor, which gets rectified to DC due to a surface area difference causing electrons to move mostly one way.

If you have less noble metals somehow connected to the bonding grid, then you can get electrons flowing in and providing protection.

If you have more noble metals connected to the bonding grid, then your bonding grid acts like a big anode and you get a net outflow of electrons.

Aluminum connected to the bonding grid will be an anode to most other metal on the bonding grid.

Only just got out to test today. Haven't had such bad numbers in years

Fc 0 cc 0
pH 6.6 or 6.8? (off scale but not far from 7)
TA 35
Salt 900 or so
Didn't check CH, vinyl
CYA <20

I can add some granular CYA if needed but am happy to just start SLAM.

ajw22 said:

Welcome to TFP.

Maybe @1poolman1 is old enough to have an idea.

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Thanks!

1poolman1 said:

The fittings and the "six-screw" pieces are separate. Those appear to be Waterway spa jets. The missing piece is a trim ring, probably chrome-plated plastic that the spa manufacturer used to make it pretty. Have never seen the trim screwed into the vessel, they usually are press fit or bayonetted onto the jet. May have to contact the spa manufacturer to find what they used.
As old as that spa appears, it was probably built at a time when "everybody" thought they could manufacture a spa shell, throw some equipment into it, sometimes special order, and go broke two years later. It has taken decades for there to be at least some "normal standard" in spa and spa equipment manufacturers. Then you run into Sundance or old Jacuzzi and its DC system.

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Awesome thanks, I’ll start my search with this. Any recommendations on what to use to cover it up? The old owners may have covered it because the pipe was leaking and unfortunately I need to fill it past this line to have the skimmer work. Ideally something that screws into the same holes. If not, I will try a big vinyl patch.