POOL WATER IS HERE!!!!!!!!!!

SG,

I have read the manual many times and what it will actually do is pretty unclear to me.. The manual says something like "it might cause the next scheduled event to be skipped, and it might take 24 hours for it to catch up.. Sigh!!!

If the Pool egg-timer is set to 2 hours and you turn on the Pool circuit at 1 pm, then at 2 pm, I would expect the the spa schedule to override any pool schedule..

I'm pretty sure the spa circuit (scheduled or manual) will override any pool schedule

That said.. why would anyone in their right mind set their pool egg timer to 2 hours???

Thanks,

Jim R.

SoCalDIYWannabe said:

We just did a resurface and all of the water is fresh and new other than lots and lots of acid and a little bit of liquid chlorine because we're not allowed to use salt for the first month. So my guess is my salinity is whatever was in the Rainwater or from the hose.

The rj60 should give me an approximation as well, correct? There's probably also a calculator to give an approximate number of bags or pounds to go from current salinity to desired salinity based on pool size. I just have to dig that up.

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I treat salt just like stabilizer and calcium chloride additions. Test for the level - for salt it is a K-1766 kit by Taylor. You can buy online at Amazon, Taylor Technologies or from tftestkits.net.
Using pool math app noted above, calculate the total amount of salt to be added. Then add only 80-85% of it. Mix it well by brushing it around and continuous running of pump. After 24-36 hours, test for salt again. Then add the balance of salt needed to reach your target.

Turn off your SWCG initially while you are adding salt to the pool and until you get it brushed around.

Do not trust the SWCG to provide you an accurate salt level. Trust only the K-1766 test kit.

Donldson said:

Generally the cork goes against whatever part is supposed to be turning and the gasket, which you want to minimize twisting of.

As such I'd put the inside gasket against the liner, the outside gasket against the pool wall, then the cork, then the nut. The nut will slide along the cork more smoothly than the gasket and let you tighten it without much movement of the gasket.

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Great, I will do it like this.

Thxs a lot

HermanTX said:

The description states “ Not recommended for Use in salt or brackish water”
Does that apply to a pool salt level that is 10% of an oceans?

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Not as far as the salt part...
Saltwater is ~30,000–40,000 µS/cm conductivity.
"Freshwater" is <1,000 µS/cm
The pool is "brackish", but on the low end...~2,000–4,000 µS/cm conductivity.
Most estuarine environments are 8-20K

Michael z said:

Hello everyone, I am a professional in the swimming pool robot industry.

I have purchased robots from various brands for research, including Aiper S1 Pro, Wybot s2, Beatbot Aquasense PRO, as well as some smaller brands like Lydsto, Smorobot, Poolpure Aquaguard, etc.

In my daily work, I spend a significant amount of time comparing the data parameters of different robots and dismantling models from brands like Beatbot, Wybot, Aiper, and others. I also test robots from different brands in various pool environments, including green pools, to observe how they perform in real-world conditions.

Additionally, I’ve compiled some knowledge and insights about using swimming pool robots, which I’d like to share today.

If you are considering purchasing a swimming pool robot, feel free to tell me about your pool’s characteristics, such as:

• Outdoor or indoor pool
• Does the pool have stairs or steps?
• Is there a lot of fine sand,dirt to clean or big leaves to clean?

Based on your specific situation, I can offer recommendations to help you choose the most suitable pool robot.

Looking forward to discussing and sharing experiences with everyone!

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Hey Michael,


I just had my 36,000 gal inground pool replastered and I am looking forward to no more daily brushing and the ability to use a vacuum/cleaner again! It is 42 x20', shallow depth 3.5' to 12.5' deep diving bowl, 18" deep corner swimouts in 3 corners (curved 2ft), and the fourth corner has a 5x8' shelf about 18" deep. Obviously a significant slope to the floor and all corners are rounded, and no 90 degree corners except from the top of the swimout to their vertical edge. It always has a vinyl cover on, except when we are swimming in it. Last year we used the Hayward Navigator suction vacuum, with in-line leaf cannister (with a skimmer sock inside the cannister basket), and used it every 1-2 weeks, just a "toss it and forget it" the day before a swim party. The Navigator is aging and may need to be replaced? I am not looking for a skimming cleaner, as I feel the skimmers are working fine. We use the pool May - September, and then close it for the winter.



I have been intrigued with the Beatbot Aqua Sense 2 on Amazon for about $1K. Do you think this will work in my pool? What do you recommend?

I say the spa schedule will run and change to SPA mode at 2pm.

Let’s see what @Jimrahbe says.

pjt said:

The manual says 25 GPM. However, each pool and installation is different. Generate enough flow to close the flow switch, whatever flow that may be.


Most debris will either float and be caught by the skimmer or sink and be picked up by your cleaner, vacuum, or robot. There's very little debris in between. Even if there was, the main drain has weak and dispersed suction.

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This is really informative. Thank you

Restless said:

View attachment 646099
Hi everyone,


We are new pool owners. Our pool was completed just 2 months ago. I’m having trouble with floating debris in my pool that just won’t go away, no matter what we do. We are past the pollen phase here in Mississippi.

We’ve already:

• Skimmed the pool thoroughly, but we can never get it all,
• Placed slimmer socks on the baskets,
• Changed the pool filter cartridges (even purchased new ones),
• Used flocculant as directed,

…but the debris keeps returning or won’t clear up at all. It looks like fine particles or organic matter that just sits on the surface or circulates around. The water chemistry is balanced, and the pump seems to be working fine.

Please help, no one wants to swim due to this. Has anyone dealt with this before or have suggestions for what we might try next? Could this be a circulation issue, or something we're missing?


Thanks in advance!

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If your skimmers don’t have a weir door in them, that would help in skimming the floating stuff away.

new2poolsFL said:

Would anyone in this group be able to point me towards Hayward Ecostar SPX3400DR schematics? I am sure I have isolated my issue but am not sure what NTC thermistor type I need to replace it.

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I have never seen that posted here.

JamesW said:

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That is as clear as ….

PoolStored said:

@JoyfulNoise I passed this out of hand without thinking about it. For some reason my head went to "I'd have to run a wire across my deck." (it was late, lol)

I certainly could do that with one of the stair bolts, do you have a recommendation of something that might work?

What about this around one of the tubes?

https://www.amazon.com/Martyr-Anodes-CMX09M-Streamlined-Magnesium/dp/B003E1ZDO0

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The description states “ Not recommended for Use in salt or brackish water”
Does that apply to a pool salt level that is 10% of an oceans?

Can you scan the interface board instructions and share them here? Maybe we can help you understand the best way to get it done.

To electricians a box like the Aqualink is foreign. I can understand many electricians hesitancy in touching it.

Welcome to TFP.
Cracks in the skimmer faceplate can be an issue. Is the pool now filled to the middle of the skimmer?
You can do a dye test by using a syringe with a food color dye. Squirt it near the crack to watch if it is sucked into the crack.

Do you have 1 skimmer or 2?

ajw22 said:

Why magnesium and not a zinc anode?

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Higher voltage, so better protection.

Why not just get a new pump?

Would anyone in this group be able to point me towards Hayward Ecostar SPX3400DR schematics? I am sure I have isolated my issue but am not sure what NTC thermistor type I need to replace it.

Donldson said:

Looks like run of the mill cottonwood seed to me.

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That’s what it looks like to me too!

Ask the seller for these things:

1) A Video with Sound of the pump pumping water at different speeds.

2) A Picture of the sticker with the Model Number and Serial Number.

3) If no sticker, ask why not.

4) Ask if the pump is all original or a Frankenstein Monster of various parts.

5) Ask for the Date the pump was made.

6) Ask where the pump came from and why it was removed.

7) Ask if it is in perfect working condition or if there are any issues regardless of how minor.

8) A Signed and Notarized document from a certified expert that can attest to the condition of the pump.

9) A written Warranty Statement.

PoolStored said:

I'm not upset, but there is generally a method to our madness. We use processes to keep pool, equipment and people safe.

More is often not better, like this situation, or during SLAM. It will be fine, no worries.

Ammonia - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

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Just added 4 more gallons.

Rockstead said:

Ok thanks,

ok but it’s attached to the whole kit in the picture which I’m assuming is the 3400vsp or equivalent based on it being 2.7THP?

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Can you verbally talk with the seller? If so, take the info that James presented and ask the seller if he repaired the pump or put on the drive. Obtaining direct answers from the buyer is more beneficial than making assumptions.

SoCalDIYWannabe said:

The rj60 should give me an approximation as well, correct?

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To manage a pool with salt, you need a salt test. Taylor K-1766

SoCalDIYWannabe said:

There's probably also a calculator to give an approximate number of bags or pounds to go from current salinity to desired salinity based on pool size. I just have to dig that up.

Click to expand...

PoolMath. Link-->PoolMath

PoolStored said:

Start now

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Pas_pool said:

I’ll turn it on in the morning.

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Huh?

Thanks. Interesting. Definitely different than my gunite pool when I was in FL.
My pool water did not feel great. The only number off when we swam was the TA at 190.