Yes filled with well water, so maybe add more sequestrant?

sande005 said:

Start investigating new insurance companies. Hard to believe that if you have signed contracts for getting it all back into service, and have proof of the ongoing work to mitigate the issues, that they won't work with you to resolve.

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Unfortunately we live in Charleston SC and insurance is hard to find as many companies are pulling out due to hurricanes.

You cannot follow the SLAM Process with test strips or pool store testing.

You must get a K-2006C or TFT Test Kits before you begin the process.

Gene,

I think what you are doing makes perfect sense.. You making sure you run the test the same way every time.. And then looking at the result.. Even if you are slightly high or low, it does not matter, as normally you are just trying to see where you are now vs. where you were at the last test.

Thanks,

Jim R.

A garden hose is around 10 gpm. You can test to see how long it takes to fill a 5 gallon bucket (10 gpm would be 30 seconds). If it's longer your flow is even less. Your pump is 2400 GPH or about 40 gpm. Probably a little less since there is restriction from the filter and it's pumping up a few feet too. So it's about 4 times the amount of water as you want.

I am guessing 40 gpm is going to to much for your waterfall. The pools at the top are not going to change that. The cover as Newdude described will stop the water shooting up but it's not going to reduce the flowrate. I think a cover like this is an attractive partial fix. if you put something like this in, it would probably be good idea to make it removable for service if it ever leaks and to prevent something from falling down it when the pump is not on.

You will also need to diverter a portion of the water so it does not go to the water fall.

If you try to just restrict the flow in to out of the pump, check to make sure the pump is not overloaded, it's only rated for 3.6A. Use and amp clamp or a power meter to check the current draw of the pump.

You may also want to put a check valve in so the pump and filter don't drain every time the pump turns off.

I used the LaMotte version of the sliding dot for years. It still is subjective, but seemed slightly easier. In head-to-head with Taylor, it gave the same end result. It does require their tablets, that take forever to dissolve. Or need a pill crusher to break them up after dropping into the water sample.

One can get just the hardware on Amazon, if interested. I never tried it with the Taylor mix, so using same may not be accurate at all. The dot on mine finally wore off, so now I just use the tube that tftestkits supplies.

Cyanuric Acid Test Kit

Welcome to the forum. Addition of chlorine has a tendency to give green hues unless enough sequestrant has been added. You on well water? follow our SLAM procedure in Pool School and stay at it.

ajw22 said:

Welcome to TFP.

A SWG generates a small amount of chlorine over a long period of time. Algae will consume the chlorine as soon as it is generated.

You should not waste your cells life trying to fight algae.

Turn off your SWG or set it to 0% and follow the SLAM Process using liquid chlorine.

What SWG do you have?

What test kit do you use?

Pool Care Basics Archives

Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!

www.troublefreepool.com

Algae Archives

www.troublefreepool.com

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Our SWG was bought off Amazon. It is a Westaho for up to 35K gal pools. I take water into Leslie's Pools but also check with test strips in between. That was another question on whether to turn off the generator while SLAMming. I will turn it off tomorrow and will start the SLAM tomorrow as I am at work today. I'm also going to take our stairs out and clean it off real well. I'll get rid of the algae first then will turn the chlorinator back on. Thanks for the info.

Welcome to TFP.

Take a pile from your robot cleaner and put some muriatic acid on it. If it bubbles then it is calcium and probably plaster dust. If it is DE or dirt it will not bubble.

Show us pictures of what your robot is capturing.

Let us know what the acid test finds.

The TF-PRO is your best value in comparison. Welcome to the forum

What's happening inside of the skimmer basket when the pump is trying to prime?

How far away is your equipment pad from poolside?

Welcome to TFP.

I think you are making this more complicated than it is.

Rawhidesabi said:

1.) So from the pictures the TF-Pro test kit looks similar to my aquarium test kits but it states it is not a "blueish, greenish, i think my eyes work color scale" so is their a digital readout or what provides me the number from each test that i am to aim for?

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You have a link where you read this blueish, greenish stuff?

All the tests in the TFT test kit have distinct color transitions for completion, such as changing from red to clear or from green to blue. The only test that has subjective color is the pH test.

Rawhidesabi said:

2.) I really dont want to waste the chemicals I have left. So i have 5 bags of shock, some alkalinity up, and some cya free shock tablets. I know the tablets can be used but will the other options just dissapear if i am switching to liquid chlorine? Should i just burn through those real fast during the opening of the pool (alk up per test results) and then make the switch? Also I know it varies per pool but I usually at the beginning of the season grab 25 packs of powder shock to get me through most if not all of the year.......how many gallons of liquid shock should i grab to get me through 4-5 months?

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You have to decide when you want to transition to TFP pool care methods.

Mixing methods does not work well and causes confusion.

We don't use "shock." Raising alkalinity is rarely necessary unless you overdose acid and crash your TA.

How much liquid chlorine you need depends on the size of your pool and your daily FC loss.

Rawhidesabi said:

3.) SLAM---Can i use this method to open my pool?

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Yes.

Rawhidesabi said:

Or do I need to do some other combo of things?

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Combo of what things?

Rawhidesabi said:

I am of course going to vaccum and clean and all that anyway but will SLAM and testing get it from swamp to clear?

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Yes.

Rawhidesabi said:

(Shouldnt be a swamp but I have the elephant cover still on. 2 weeks ago I shocked her heavily and covered it back up letting the pump run 3 hrs per day until now. I would like to start opening the pool this week so that it is clear and ready by memorial day. usually takes 3-4 days but if doing this method takes a week and i then am spending less and not having to drive to the 18 year old kid to test my large investment I am game.

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The length the SLAM Process takes depends on how bad your algae bloom is. Some SLAMs can take a few weeks with real bad algae.

Rawhidesabi said:

I just really want to know how much more testing am i signing myself up for and if this will in the long run possibly save some cash? I am planning on getting the TF-pro with Slam option. (Actually want to buy it here today but need to make sure I am on the right path. or should i get that Taylor K-2006C test kit?

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Get the TF-Pro with the Slam Option. It is a better value.

It will be the least expensive and best value pool purchase you make.

more detail needed Its Better to provide make model of equipment and provide photos of concerns and...filling out your signature please will help.

Go to your aviator(top right)and drop down to find signature and complete Create Your Signature.

Fwiw I use the 50 ppm solution and violate the rules somewhat because I'm very nearsighted. I fill to 50, then intentionally bring the test vial close to my eye. I can still see a shadow of the dot. With a little practice, the look of that shadow is much easier for me to discern than the "glance down at your waist" method. I test myself by adding a mix with the 50 ppm solution, not looking at the scale, until the dot looks right, then verify I'm actually close to 50. This way, it's easy to get within 10. Standard lighting is still very important, though.

JamesW said:

I guess that I am confused.

You are talking about getting a used variable speed pump, so why are the pictures of a single speed pump?

Are you getting the pump and replacing the motor with a variable speed motor?

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I’m sorry, completely my fault, and thank you for pointing it out!

I was sure it was a variable speed Tristar but it wasn’t, my fault.

Some pool lights will often give a green tint to water. Mine does but my PebbleTec can look green at different times of day as well. My bulb is a 23 year old incandescent.

cthenrys said:

I started at 32k gallons but every time I add and test 30 min later it overshoots the FC levels so I have dialed back volume to 21k gallons. Will these readings have any more error in them at SLAM levels ?

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I would not make that big of an adjustment...you can use "Effects of Adding" in reverse to get close. Take the last test before chlorine and after 30 minutes, say the addition was for an INCREASE of 10 FC and you added X ounces. Enter the X ounces, then modify the pool volume until it says it will increase your FC by 10. Use that pool volume.

All those look good, and your pH test is just fine.
I don't think your TA is 40. Try again. Keep adding drops until the color does not change, then subtract that drip. Use your speedstir.

Mhambel1 said:

1. I have my VS pump set to run at a medium RPM most of the time for filtering and chlorination, but I run it at a high RPM for an hour or two in the morning for the skimmer. My SWG is powered through a relay connected to the “pool pump” socket on the circuit board. It appears I could only choose one RPM setting to trigger the pool pump relay. Is there a way to run the saltwater generator whenever the pump is running?

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Show us how you have your circuits, VS speeds, and schedules setup.

When your pump is on at any speed, you need to be in AUTO and POOL mode with the Filter Pump F relay on. That will ensure your SWG is generated whenever the pump is running.

The POOL circuit should be set to the lowest VS pump speed you desire. Then you can use other AUX circuits or feature circuts to increase the pump speed as needed.

When multiple circuits with VS speeds are running the highest speed wins.

Mhambel1 said:

2. I have a heater bypass valve. The new circuit board only has room for two valves without the expansion module. Is there a workaround to control a third valve using any of the other connections? Aux etc…

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This circuit allows you to control an actuator using a high-voltage AUX relay. AUX relays use two wires: 24 VDC and ground. Valve actuators use three wires: two 24 VAC lines and ground. AC on one line turns the valve one way, and AC on the other line turns the valve the other way.

You could use the AUX relay to control the 24 VAC so that it will turn the valve using the following circuit. But normal AUX relays won't work as they do not have any Normally Closed contacts. You need a relay that has NC and NO contacts, such as the Pentair 520198, 2-speed relay, which has NC and NO terminals and will plug into a Jandy, Pentair, or Hayward board.

Mhambel1 said:

3. Valve assignments. Only two sockets without an expansion board. I have my intake and return valves and the A and B socket for now. I’m surprised I can’t just assign them as intake and return.

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Which ones do you want to assign as Intake and return?

Why not use the intake and return sockets on the board?

Mhambel1 said:

I have them set to change whenever the spa heater is active for now, but that does not allow me to have a spillway for spa water circulation with the pool. Assuming I need an expansion board for my heater bypass valve anyways, what’s the best way to get the spillway to work?

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Use the Intake and Return valves as designed and use SPILLWAY mode. Those are all standard features.

Mhambel1 said:

I do have a manual valve on the pool return to divert a little bit to the spa when the pool is filtering. I’d like to be able to turn on the cascade from the spa to the pool (pool suction, Spa return) for the waterfall look.

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What do you have plugged into Valve A and Valve B?

Am on day 6 of the SLAM. Water is crystal clear. CCs test at 0.5 one time and 1.0 the next so still there. I still see some greenish stuff when I brush in certain areas, so I'm still slamming. Gone through 14 gal of chlorine so far and need to go get more today.

I am working with pool math to adjust the pool volume, but I am seeing some inconsistency. I started at 32k gallons but every time I add and test 30 min later it overshoots the FC levels so I have dialed back volume to 21k gallons. Will these readings have any more error in them at SLAM levels ?

I replaced a few more parts and ran the pump last night, still with the same issue unfortunately - pump will draw in the first gallon of water, but will then the basket water level will not remain full, it remains only 1/3 full and it sucks air. In addition to the list of repairs in the original post, I have also completed the below:

1. Replaced drain plug O Rings and lubed
2. Lubed diffuser O Ring
3. Replaced and lubed both union gaskets
4. Replaced impeller
5. Replaced pump basket lid, and lubed O ring

Three observations from trying to prime it up again:
1. With the lid on, and pump off, I noticed some occasional air bubbles in pump basket coming from the red path in the screenshot below. I think this helps narrow down where the air leak could be coming from. No observed water leaks below or around the pump while it is operating


2. When trying to prime, the filter is not building up any pressure. With the pressure air gauge on the filter open, no air is bled out.
3. When trying to prime, I feel a lot more air blowing around this section (circled in blue) of the pump on the right side (top down view). There is much less airflow on the left side of the pump in this area. I know the pump blows out air as part of its normal operation, but this area on the other side of the pump has much less noticeable airflow



If you have any further troubleshooting ideas, please let me know. The above ground plumbing has no noticeable defects. My next tests will be to wrap certain areas of the pump/plumbing with grocery bags to see if that limits the air coming into the pump, which would help me pinpoint the location of the breach. I also may run the pump with the filter cartridges removed to see if the system can move water there, and if it will, I would replace the cartridges (which were recently cleaned).
I really appreciate your help here.

I guess that I am confused.

You are talking about getting a used variable speed pump, so why are the pictures of a single speed pump?

Are you getting the pump and replacing the motor with a variable speed motor?