You may try contacting inyopools.
Is this a pentair nautilus plus?


Edit- upon zooming in it appears you have an American titan.
I cannot make out your model but inyo likely has the parts you need.
Here’s a list of some for the titan

Don't know for sure, but looked at the manual. The flow sensor is just a switch. If it's working, then 2 of socket pins should go from infinite to near-zero ohms when you flex the metal blade so the magnet touches the stalk.

No way to tell which 2 unless you can find a service manual somewhere. But you won't do any damage by trying all pairs.

You might also try to reverse engineer which pins are which. It looks like there are 6. Seems reasonable that there are 2 for each sensor. If so, then this ought to work: 1) look for 2 that connect (1 for each) to the salt sensing blades (don't scratch them) with low ohms. 2) Look for another two that have maybe 10-20 K ohm resistance between them. Those would be the temp sensor. Verify by dunking in cold water to see the resistance change. If you can rule out those 4, the other 2 must be the flow switch.

ringi said:

Why does it seem few pool owners have large rainwater collection tanks fed from their home roof used to dilute the pool over winter?

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This is not common in the US but I have seen a few instances here. Most here who collect rainwater use it in their gardens and such.
Using a secondary pool or bladder for water pump out is also not common here in the states when doing pool resurfacing/liner changes etc. but I have seen it used “across the pond” quite a bit and think its a great idea!

Gnarbrah said:

Should I back it down? I figured it was on its last legs and I'll be replacing it within a month or so

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You've got nothing to lose.

Pressure at 28 is not good. That indicates your filter is dirty and need to be cleaned.

High pressure is bad, not strong. Low pressure is good and indicates little resistance through the filter.

The rubber band test forces the flow switch on. It showed your flow switch works.

Do you have a MPV on your filter?

Show us pictures of your equipment pad?

Have a gander…

Rob Plummer said:

is there a way to upload pictures here?

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Then

Rob Plummer said:

I never even thought about that. the total chlorine on the strip shows up as high but the free chlorine on the strip shows none. but like you said it could just be because of that.

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There’s another thread going right now about a similar issue- the strips only go so high and he actually has 5x’s the amount of fc shown on the strip. Its a crapshoot with the strips.

What RPM are you running the pump?

I will say tonight as I came home the pool looks relatively clear. maybe a tinge in the water, is there a way to upload pictures here?

8:30am to 7:30pm
Should I back it down? I figured it was on its last legs and I'll be replacing it within a month or so.

thanks.

Only clean it when the pressure rises to 25% higher than the clean pressure. You might be overdoing it but filters in Florida tend to be undersized for some odd reason.

V___25 said:

My god, you people with your fancy pools, spas/hot tubs, outdoor kitchens, tiki bars and whatever else make me super jealous!! I love living vicariously through you, as I drop in the robot and add chlorine to my painfully basic pool.

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Same! Tfp members have some amazing pools

19k pool spa combo, screened in Lanai, solar heated, Haywood vs pump. normally 18 psi with solar on and pump running, Gage goes to zero when it's off

While you wait for fc to fall keep doing all the other things like keeping the filter running, backwashing when psi increases by 25% over clean psi,
and vacuuming or brushing the pool each day. Cover off, cell off.

Sorry, missed on the ramp. Likely 23K. Start there, then use either an acid addition (later not in slam) or chlorine addition and test 30 minutes after an addition and see if you got the correct result. If still too high, lower pool volume 500, if too low raise pool volume 500.

Pick one place and use that place for all your testing to be consistent. If shallow is lower FC then choose shallow.

PoolStored said:

Adjust your pool to 25K.
View attachment 645755

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I tested from deep end this time
Fc 13.5
Cc 1.0

We kept this experiment simple and only used soda ash (sodium carbonate) to precipitate calcium and then filtered it out. We have not tried using lime (calcium hydroxide)..... yet. But of course, we are certain that using lime would work very well. In fact, we believe it would probably precipitate out magnesium as magnesium hydroxide or magnesium carbonate.
In thinking about this experiment, I now realize that we should have tested for possible magnesium reduction also. Fortunately, we are planning to do this procedure again on two pools this spring. So we will cover that aspect this time around.

Pump bearings for sure. Sounds like possible cavitation as well. Hard to tell definitively on the cavitation. There appears to be corrosion on the motor endbell and faceplate which is typical from a shaft seal leaking. Although the pics aren’t close enough for a great view for diag purposes.