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Looking for a way to test GPM at each return

J
sorpasorpa said:
Could you elaborate how you would calculate flow with pump performance and filter pressure?
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Get the filter pressure and suction and convert to feet of head.

For example a filter pressure of 29 psi is 29 x 2.31 = 67 feet of head loss.

You can use a vacuum gauge on the suction.

You can estimate the suction head based on (Estimated) flow and pipe size.

For example, if the suction is 100 feet (equivalent) of 2" PVC pipe and the flow is about 50 GPM, then the head loss is about 4.2 feet.

If the flow is 100 gpm and you have (2) 2" PVC pipes and each carries about 50 gpm, the head loss is still about 4.2 feet because each pipe head loss is equal and you only look at one pipe for head loss.

In this example, we have 71 feet of head at full speed (3,450 rpm), so we can find the flow is about 100 GPM.

This puts the System Curve at about "C".



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www.pentair.com

IntelliFlo3® Variable Speed & Flow Pool Pump

The award-winning, energy-efficient IntelliFlo3 VSF Pool Pump has a quiet design with sensorless flow control, app connectivity, and automation capability.
www.pentair.com www.pentair.com

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This shows different system curves on a pump curve.

System Curve A is a typical curve, B is a poorly designed system and C is a well designed system

As you can see, a system curve like C is much more efficient because it allows for a slower pump speed to achieve a specific flow, which means less power and total energy costs over the pool lifetime.

How to Read Pump & System Curves

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M
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J
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J
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NO alkalinity or acid in pool causing green, which should I fix first?

setsailsoon
Mjreedy said:
Major green algae. Tested pool and have ZERO alkalinity and very little acid. Which do I correct first the ACID or the ALKALINITY issue?
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How are you testing? Answer to your question is neither. If you have a green pool you need to SLAM. That will involve getting your pH right because you'll need to go to much higher FC levels but never above max recommended in our information. This will all become easier to understand after you read the articles and watch the videos. I've seen many, many pools start with yours and quickly be crystal clear. Never with expensive potions only generic versions of pool store chemicals at waaaay lower price.

Please help us help you by creating a signature. Here's how. You'll get answers faster and our volunteer experts will be more efficient with their time.

Chris
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J
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NO alkalinity or acid in pool causing green, which should I fix first?

ajw22
Mjreedy said:
Major green algae. Tested pool and have ZERO alkalinity and very little acid. Which do I correct first the ACID or the ALKALINITY issue?
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Welcome to TFP.

Did you just open a closed pool or have you been using Trichlor tablets that crashed your TA.

Tell us the rest of the story so we can guide you appropriately.

How did you test TA and ph?

TA is zero or below means pH is 4.5 or below.

Add 30 ppm TA of baking soda. Run the pump and brush well. Test the TA. Repeat until the TA is above 50.

If pH still shows yellow, add 0.4 pH rise worth of borax.

Follow the SLAM Process.

This is typical of a trichlor puck treated pool.

Algae Archives

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
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Looking for a way to test GPM at each return

S
TinFoilHat said:
With all of that the pool is fine and flow rates don't matter. I think you are trying to do too much work to prove something to a customer.
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I'm trying to optimize a pump schedules tailored to each pool. This has nothing to do with proving anything. Do you think it's a bad idea to try to optimize a pool systems efficiency?
ajw22 said:
No, since I run my pump for other reasons then filtering.

I would like to check the water chemistry.

It is a water chemistry or an internal filter problem.

DE filters, cartridge filters, and sand filters all have quirks and must be handled differently for water clarity.
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This hypothetically assumes water chemistry is balanced. You are ignoring filter schedule as a variable for some reason. My point is that with your binary quart test there is a huge range of pump schedules in which you can see the quarter. How would you advise me if I asked you for a pump schedule that allows me to see the quarter and run my pump for as little as possible.
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Pool suction

ajw22
Grayman43 said:
I’m not really trying to figure out why the water comes up. I’m just trying to figure out if it’s related to the lack of suction you can see bubbles in the pump basket.
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OK, you are rattling around in what problem you are asking us to help you fix.

Some bubbles in the pump can be expected when vacuuming.

If the pump is not losing prime, or cavitation, or making strange noises, then consider it normal.
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J
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NO alkalinity or acid in pool causing green, which should I fix first?

setsailsoon
Welcome aboard M! You've come to the right place. Let me suggest you read this first and get an approved test kit on order asap. You'll need to slam so I'll add some info on that as well.

Pool Care Basics
SLAM Process
Test Kits Compared




I hope this is helpful and gets you started. I'll add more in a follow up reply. For now one last thing. Stay out of pool stores 'till you get a chance to see what methods we use. They are designed for average users like you and hundreds of thousand others. Importantly, we don't sell anything. All you get here is volunteer expert advice that's never conflicted.

Look forward to your questions and getting that pool cleaned up fast and cheap - The TFP way!

Chris
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Connecting a Pentair Superflow VST pump to my Easytouch

ajw22
timjet said:
With the pool pump operating at 2200 rpm do you think the SWG is putting out sufficient chlorine for a pool in central florida during the summer and operating for 5 hrs and the pool running at high rpm for just 2 additional hours.
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Pump RPM does not affect SWG chlorine output as long as the flow switch is engaged.

Only you can determine that.

Test your FC every day or two.

If the FC is decreasing, then increase SWG % or pump runtime or both.

If the FC is increasing, then reduce SWG % or pump runtime or both.

If you get little FC change then you are well dialed in.
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SLAM Complete: Still Milky

L
I started my SLAM on Sunday and by about Tuesday or Wednesday I wasn't seeing any visible algae on the walls or floors, but the water just isn't clearing up. It's clean and 'clear' (not green) but still hazy. So I have continued the SLAM, checking my numbers and adding chlorine 3-4 times a day. I've been brushing what I can see (difficult when you can't see the bottom) running my multispeed pump on high 24 hours a day, backwashing the filter every day, sand was new last year.

Overnight last night, I lost zero Free Chlorine and it tests at zero Combined Chlorine. CYA is at 30 and pH is like 7.7-7.9 range. (Haven't bothered with alkalinity or hardness since directions didn't mention and historically I've always had really great numbers - no reason to believe they would have changed).

Everything looks PERFECT when I test the water, but I still can't see the bottom of the pool, even in the shallow end. I thought it was just a matter of letting it filter since I had a LOT of algae... but it seems like it should have at least STARTED getting better by now.

What else should I be checking that I'm not?

Thoughts? Thanks!
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techman65
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techman65
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Need some help on a main drain cover

J
I have an A & A Pentair popup pool cleaner system in my pool an was very pleased with the operations on that system as it worked great. Recently we had some work done on the pool and a repebble tec done and in that process I now have new drain covers, I believe Aquastar 10" Anti- Entrapment cover and it does not seem to work very well at allowing the dirt Tobe sucked out of the pool bottom. Do I have any options here to resolve this? Pentair has a PBR2 10" cover that look closer to my old cover but not sure it will go together.

Please help

Jim
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