Trying to identify my sand filter after the label has worn off. I can't see any identifying marks aside from the labels on the top, which seem pretty standard to me (not well versed here, but this is my second pool).
It's got a 22" diameter (or very close to that) and the tank itself is about 24" high, not including the stand or the attachments. I know for sure the pool was here in 2011 due to some real-estate photos, but I'm assuming it was installed around 2005 or so. Any idea how to go about identifying this thing?

Hi! We are building our pool and having a hard time deciding on a color. Our builder uses CL Industries but their site is not ideal with samples. I think we narrowed down our color to Blue Pearl and Grey Reef Pearl but can’t really find a ton of pictures. Any pictures would be greatly appreciated!!! I’m looking for a more “natural” blue color since we are having a natural rock waterfall put in and we live in a highly wooded area with a lot of pine trees. Our coping is bluestone. We have a sunshelf and spa, and the pool will be 3.5-6 ft. Also, do you think our tile will make a huge difference. Attached is a picture of the blue pearl with the bluestone coping and the color tile we picked out. They didn’t have a grey reef sample in the office.

My aquarite system is reading high salt. I replaced the cell with an aftermarket one which displayed high salt. After testing with strips it showed about 4200. I drained and replaced about 15" of water. My strips then showed 2800. I started reading reviews for the aftermarket cell and found many people have the high salt issue with it.
I then bought a hayward t15 cell like we had before and after install i am still reading high salt. The display doesn't show the cell type in diagnostics. I only have 7 slots when pushing the button instead of 8.
I have a 88-0 setting which i can't find any info on. I need some help with this please.

My pool contractor is charging for a couple mosaic designs to go in and then says that the plaster company is going to charge another fee to go around it? We feel we have been nickeled and dimed throughout this process. Does this seem right? Our tile store said that most companies install the mosaics for free and don’t charge extra “to go around it”.

This is the same company that is charging the same price for pebbletec as pebble sheen when everywhere else I read that pebble sheen is an upgrade.

Your thoughts?

So asking you guys that seem to be much smarter than me with chemistry and math. double check me please.

My pool uses 1 gallon of MA a week. I’m plagued with high TA for my water fill. With the 34.5% MA I am installing a automatic acid dispenser. I got a Stenner pump that operates at 0.89 ounzes per minute. I also have 15 gallon barrel for a 3 to 1 dilution. So… trying to get a rough estimate where to start, so here is my thinking…

I need 1 gallon a week which is 128 fl ounzes, divide by 7 days to get 18.3 ounzes of acid needed daily. 3 to 1 dilution would mean the pool needs (18.3oz acid, 54.9oz water) 73.2 ounzes of the dilution daily. The pump at 0.89 ounces per minute means it’s needs to run for 82.2 minutes (73.2 divided by 0.89).

Does the sound somewhat correct?

Hey All,
Throwing this out there. I lost my cya test tube (so ashamed).
Is there any way to test cya level without it?
Hope all is well! Thanks.
Steve

It seems like there are only two options for pool umbrella sleeves that you can put in a sun shelf, but they are both 1.5”. We’re looking to get a larger umbrella (11’ or 13’) and they have 2.25 - 2.5” aluminum center poles.

Is anyone aware of a sleeve, that has a cap, for larger diameter umbrellas? Or is there a problem in going with just a PVC sleeve, without a cap? These will be in the sun shelf, not out on the deck, so ideally won’t fill with leaves and such?

I may have to replace my Pentair IC40 again. We just haven't had good luck with the Pentair brand SWG since about 2yrs after we installed our pool. Looking at the CircuPool RJ-60 Plus SWG. Any feedback? Or is there something better?

​

I’m having a Hayward T 15 installed this Thursday. My pool is 18000 gallons 18 X 33 feet oblong. Ive read somewhere,on TFP I think, that it might be good to have the cell installed vertically. I run my Hayward VSP 24/7. Daytime 12 hrs around. 2400 rpm and at night 12 hrs around 1200 rpm .
Does anyone have experience with this and recommendations about the cell positioning vertical vs horizontal?

My cell is 95% dead and discount salt said I can send it in and get a 40% discount if it’s bad but have to pay shipping to and from.
Or they offered me a 20% discount to just buy a new one which I picked. Going with out a cell for 2 weeks or more would be challenging since liquid chlorine is hard to find and expensive.

At 100% power it’s only pulling 52 watts when it should be closer to 200 so not making a lot but enough to help.

Over all happy with discount salt customer support

I have a question on my pool plumbing. Should the heat pump have a by-pass for the water? My concern is that if the heat pump fails [leaks] that I will be unable to run the pump and filter. Is this something I should be concerned with and have it done? Here is a pic of my current set-up.

After a two week vacation we came home to a very cloudy pool. I took a water sample to the pool store a day ago and it was calculated. I needed pool stabilizer and GLB Super Sonic. Followed instructions and pool is still cloudy. I can barely see the bottom at the shallow end. Polaris is running. There is still froth on the top of the pool and clarity is a bit better. Any suggestions. Inground pool. 20X40.

Hi - had a quick question about output percentage and temperature. Is there a chart or anything that can help with scaling up the output% as the temperature rises. This is the first summer of the pool and so far we have been dialed in all the chemicals. Just as the heat started to hit the chlorine level dropped bc I had the output % around 40%. I added some shock and bumped up to 75% which should help.

wasnt sure if there was a rule of thumb based on the temperature and output%s.

thanks!

I just purchased a Dolphin active 40. It constantly gets stuck on the main drain cover. I tried tuning off the pump for the main drain which helped somewhat. I purchased the zodiac unibridge main drain cover (on Amazon $76). I tried it with no modifications. The dolphin had some success but still got stuck. So I took prior advice and removed the unibridge from the pool , and then used a jig saw to cut the center out. Walah!! The dolphin has now been transversing the cover 100 % of the time. Had this not worked I was considering returning the dolphin.

Moved from here.

I have dual basic timers, one for the Polaris and one for the pump/filter. Last week the cleaner timer wasn’t working , so I would manually turned on and off.( inside the pump time). I noticed yesterday it wasn’t seated properly and corrected this and now it working fine, but the pump timer isn’t working now, seems to be correctly positioned! .what would your recommendation be, replace both? We are not very DIY here, so if it’s complicated ,I will need to call the pool person, who opens and closes our pool.

Morning folks!

I’ve noticed that each time we lose power, which happens every 3-4 weeks around here, the pool circuit reverts to off on the IntelliCenter. This results in the pump not running until I notice or remember to go check it. Is there a way to change the default to “prior state”? I’ve looked everywhere but can’t seem to find it if it is there. Thanks!

For those of you with a deck around your pool seems most of these have the decking going under the top rail. How do you get the winter cover on it.

A few months ago we had plaster pool resurfaced with tile. Within a couple of months, there were a couple of white spots in the grout lines. Now, approx 6 months later, there are hundreds of spots with a white substance on the grout lines. On the pool sides, the white substance is oozing down from the grout lines. Chemistry continues to maintained just as it was before the tile was installed. We never saw anything like this in the plaster pool that we maintained for 13 years before deciding to do the upgrade. It is salt water pool - always has been. The water is hard in the area.

Possibly unrelated - but the bottom of the pool is extremely slippery as well.

Any advice would be appreciated. What are the best practices for prepping a plaster pool to install tile? Should the plaster have been removed? Was there a sealer that was needed before installing the tile?

Thanks for your help.

My Taylor K-2005 rest kit arrived today. CYA is through the roof! I keep draining water and refilling, but I don’t seem to be making any progress. Pool is 3 years old. I’m only using liquid chlorine now. Started the season with granular shock which was my downfall.

I have a vinyl liner 18,000 gallon. Chlorine.

ph: 7.4
TA: 240 without the conversion for Cya
Free Chlorine: 4
Total Chlorine: 5
Combined: 1

I’m trying to refill with my hose. Would it be cost effective to have water delivered?

Thank you!

I have a pump suction cover at the deep end of the pool that has broken out in the middle.
There are locations for counter sunk screw but nothing in them.
Is this an O ring fit or are these threaded?
Thanks for your help

My pump is tripping breaker immediately on attempt to start the pump. Pentair equipment. Did get 1-1.5 inches of rain today. Also have had problems with salt cell acting strange over last month. Flow light often red but does turn green eventually (sometimes hour or more) and then will go back to red off and on. Cleaned cell, water pressure is very good when pump was running. Just seems something goofy with flow switch but sharing this just in case I have some weird electrical issues going on. Had panel display replaced in April because lightning strike fried it. Everything seemed to be working for 2 months except salt cell issues mentioned above. Thoughts on what might be going on and what to check first? Appreciate any help I can get. Thanks.

did the bucket test and have about an inch leaking per day. plugged the returns and skimmer still leaked about the same level. found 2 tiny holes and patched it. this morning, when pump is off, saw lots tiny bubbles around the both returns and the patch area. what does that means?

prastic stairs have some small bump/ blisters , food dye test did not see water run into it.

l thought the returns and suction side is ok as the water was dropped under returns and a bit lower than light when we open the pool few days ago.

thanks for any help. leak detection company is about 1 hour drive away. hope to find some clues before we have to call them (holiday weekend. have to wait for Monday)

I see Marina recommended on the forum - does anyone have any feedback on Doheny?

I’m looking at their private label robotic pool cleaner Mercury which i believe is the same as the Dolphin Quantum but it is on sale for $899

Any help would be appreciated

I am currently in the SLAM process and Thursday will be two weeks. I have kept my FC at 14 with a few dips to about 10ppm for the entire time. I still have visible algae and am having 6ppm overnight loss. What should I do other than stay the course? Do I need to raise my CYA? I use the TFP approved Taylor test kit:

FC: 10+ (for almost two weeks)
CC: 0.5m (this has remained constant throughout)
PH: Was 7.2 prior to start. (has for sure gone up due to aeration)
CYA: 30
Water Temp: 92F (unusually hot 100+ temps)

The screen went blank on my Autopilot DIG220. It did go on once, but just showed gibberish with random numbers and letters, but only for a few seconds and then it went blank again. Do I need to replace the whole unit, or is there a part that needs replacing. Or is there something I can do to correct the problem. Any suggestions would b e appreciated.

Mastertemp 300 all last week the heater fired for 15 sec.stop and repeat. Today service heater light on. I Turned the heater off, then on, fan turned on, did not ignite and service heater light came back on. I replaced the high limit and the AGS as well as the flu stack sensor.

Hello!

We need a replacement lid for our Pentair filter. Best I can tell it it's a Triton II TR-100C manufactured in 2002... the lid has a part number of 35-5914 "black w/o hole" but all I can find online is part number #154575 which specifies for filters manufactured before 3/97.

Any thoughts or suggestions? Thank you!

Chris

Have Hayward Filter 150 with 1500 pleated filter and an Aquagenie skimmer/return distributor. I am having high pressure problems on the filter. I recently cleaned the cartridge with solution and sprayed it out as usual. After returning it to operation it went immediately to 16 psi and within 3 days it was at 20 psi. Usually the pattern is 12 psi to start , then raising over 2 or 3 weeks to 19-20 psi, when I clean it. It's now at 23 psi - getting dangerous. Don't know if there is something on discharge system like Aquagenie pressure chamber/return distributor plates that are plugged up with something or what. Maybe it's the filter cartridge? One problem I have with this immediate high pressure is with vacuuming. I can't get good suction efficient vacuuming when the prssure gets up to 18-20 psi.

Setting up a heater on a 16x32 Kayak pool. A Hartford loop is recommended between the heater and chlorinator but does not spec a height or length. I found one manufacturer that says 6-8 inches above the chlorinator height. Any suggestions?

Hi there! This is my second year owning a home that has an under ground sand filter pool. I back wash it weekly, alternate shock & algae-side every other week (or occasionally shock it an extra time depending on what the test strip reads), add chlorine tablets weekly, brush the sides & use a pool vacuum weekly. This is the first year it’s not extremely clear, and I’m just not sure what to do. I tested the water and it looks pretty okay to me? But I’m completely aware that I still have no idea what I’m doing and that I’m in a “fake it til ya make it” situation- so any help or advice would be greatly appreciated!