I have replaced in June my liner due to a leak I have dealt with in March/April.
I have also changed the filter gasket in June. I have to modify few pipes. I have a very tiny leak located around the pump but it's extremely small and does not affect at all the water level in the pool (one pipe is slightly too long and put a bit of pressure on the junction between the pipe and the pump, I have to fix it). I have also added a "chlorinator" that sends 75 ounces of chlorine everyday at 1pm. I do not use pool heater.

Everything seems to be fine, and work beautifully. The last test I have done are below.

I have however noticed a strange behavior: on a small section of the wall, always the same (probably around 7 foot square of the wall in the higher end of the pool located on the wall where the jets are), I have very tiny bubble on the wall that I can wiped out in a movement of my hand.

What this could be and if it's an issue what should I do ? Is it related to any of the information I have shared above ?

==========================================
Iroquois drive
------------------------------------------
Build Type: Vinyl
Volume: 16000 gallons
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Latest Test Result Summary:
FC: 7.0 (3 days ago)
CC: 0.0 (3 days ago)
pH: 7.5 (3 days ago)
TA: 80 (3 days ago)
CH: 70 (3 days ago)
CYA: 40 (14 days ago)
TEMPERATURE: 82° (3 days ago)
CSI: -0.76 (3 days ago)
==========================================

I have a plaster pool - is it safe to brush with a wire brush on a regular basis or should I get one with a mix of nylon and wire?

Recently I fixed my pool's auto-fill so I no longer have any iron being added to the pool (How to test for Iron without sending out water to testing lab or pool store! (pics included)) , but I was curious if I still had some iron in the pool water from the last 3 months that was still lingering around. I've drained a bit of pool water lately (maybe 6,000 of my 36,000 gallons?) to get rid of some of the sequestered iron and some CH as well.

Normally I keep FC around 4-6 or so, and decided to try to make my pool turn nuclear green with some added chlorine. I like to call it nuclear green because the water is still super clear and it just reminds me of some kind of weird nuclear waste water.

Now on to the fun stuff...

I can go from super-clear blue to super-clear green by bumping up my FC from 4-6 to 14. It only takes a couple of hours (maybe 4, IIRC?) for the water to change that drastically. Keep in mind, I'm not doing this with 1 pump, I had 3 separate pumps running (1 at 2750rpm, 1 at 1050rpm, and 1 at 1550rpm) to keep water circulating really well during this test.


IMPORTANT NOTE: The main pool and the overflow basin are 2 different shades/colors in each picture because I started my experiment/testing the overflow basin about an HOUR ahead of the main pool. (I wasn't going to proceed with the main pool if I didn't see the results I -expected- with the smaller overflow basin). So every pic you see here, the overflow basin will have a "head start", hence the difference in colors between the two bodies of water.

In short, I just used a very small amount of AA to neutralize -some- of the FC and ran 3 pumps to circulate and move the water.

This is the the water color in the beginning, once FC hit about 14.5.



1 Hour Later after adding in a bit of AA...



1 Hour Later with circulation (no more AA being added)...


1 Hour Later with circulation (no more AA being added)...


1 Hour 30 Minutes Later with circulation (no more AA being added)...


2.5 Hours later with circulation (no more AA being added)...


Basically about 7 hours total of water circulation, and an FC drop from 14 down to about 5. So this shows that I still have some iron in my pool.

In a span of about 12 hours, I went from clear-blue, to clear-green, to clear-blue again. Anyways, just thought it might be fun to share with others.! (iron sucks, heh)

Last week discovered a rip about the size of a golf ball on the floor of my pool. It's a tear with a connected flap, not a complete hole. Short term solution: I grabbed some underwater flex tape and put a couple strips over it. Seems to be doing ok over the last 2 days. No sand coming in and I don't seem to be losing water. Question is about the liner replacement. Is there one time of the season that's better to replace a liner than another? ASAP, wait until end of season but then have to re-fill and balance before winter closing? Close as usual and schedule first thing in the spring? Supposedly the winter cold will not affect the adhesive of the tape. Thanks everyone.

It seems that my swg is stuck in reverse negative-polarity causing it not to generate chlorine. According to the manual this is a normal cleaning function it does automatically. However, it been this way for days. This was installed a few weeks ago but, I was using lots of liquid bleach to clean the swamp.

The pictures show the voltage, cell amps and salt levels.

Is there a way to reset or stop the cleaning? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hello, have a TF-100 test kit and I run out of the cya reagent. Would this Taylor reagent work with my kit? Thank you!

I have HEATPRO 110K AHRI HP21104T,
Two years old. It turns on, then right off before hitting set temp. No error code. Water flow is fine. Condensation line is not clogged. The problem is this is not consistent. Almost seems it happens when it is very humid. But not sure. Hayward has no service reps in my area. No HVAC companies want to check it. Im at a loss at what to do. Any similar experience?

Just got a new pump after having equipment off for about 5 days so I turned my schedule off to let my pump run continuously.
I never paid attention to the egg timer, but what I was wondering is if i keep my schedule off and set my egg timer to “never stop” so it runs continuously, when I set my new schedule, does that override the egg timer? (Which I would keep at “never stop”. )

I bought the ph meter with my test kit as an add on. Tried calibrating it last night and it must not have worked as the ph reading is 8-9 even though it’s more like 7.3-7.4 with the drop test. I ordered more buffer solution to hopefully try again so any tips from you guys on getting the calibration right this time?? If it doesn’t work I may just send it back…

When I purchased my TF-100 Pro in February, I also purchased the PH meter. Since that time, I've been using it AND the drop test (comparator block with the Taylor R-0004 solution). I will ask my wife to spot me a color test on the drop test (because I struggle with red, even with four drops instead of five), and I've gotten where I can "get" within a couple tenths of a point. A couple of weeks ago, I noticed that my PH meter drifting and my trust in it waned a bit. Anyway... My dad actually had a new one he purchased a few weeks ago but hadn't used so I scored it.

It isn't the Apera, but I figured it would be worth a try. About 90 minutes ago, I calibrated it using the solution powder with distilled water (250ml per instructions); 7.00, 4.00, and the 10.01. Then, I used my Atlas Scientific liquid solutions of 4.00. 7.00, and 10.00 . The readings were spot on between powder solutions with the exception of the 10.00 solution and it was .01 high. Close enough. I tested back and forth a couple of time rinsing the probes between each test results were what they should be. I tested a sample of water from my pool with the meter and the results show 7.4. Here is the kicker, for me... When I tested with the drop test I was reading higher than 8 (obviously can't read it higher, but it was a "skosh" darker.

So, new meter, 7.4, drop test, 8... I asked my wife what she thought, and she came back with a "bit higher than 8". Since my PH solution is almost empty, I got my new bottle (purchased from TFtestkits during their March sale) and the results were identical.

Now I am not sure what to do or trust. Am I missing something? I really feel I need to trust the drop test solution but its hard to do when I tested and calibrated like I did. That's a huge difference.

Looking for some guidance...

pi have a light in the side of my above ground pool. it calls for a bulb Hayward bulb SP0565Z1. when i search for the bulb the cost is between $85 and $95. I saw a couple replacements that were much cheaper, i was not sure they would be comparable.
can someone give me some direction on what bulb would be a good alternative.

I have a chlorine feeder that came with my pool. It is leaking terribly. Is it easy to remove it from my setup?

This is long, so bear with me...I figured this was the place to post this, as there are a lot of pool nerds here who might dig the details...

Pool: above ground 12x24 oval, 52" depth, New England. History: we did not open the pool until 2 days ago. The water under the pool cover was blue and clear with almost no debris after sitting winterized for 10 months. However, our skimmer container was cracked, so we had to replace that, which meant draining the pool completely (so the holes would line up properly with the existing holes in our pool liner, which was stretching downward somewhat because of the weight of the water). Anyway, that doesn't really matter, all that matters is that we had to drain the pool to make the repair. We did not get inside the pool to scrub or wash the liner when it was empty, mainly because it didn't look dirty. Then we filled the pool right after completing the repair.

Here is where is gets strange. As we filled the pool with hose water, we noticed that the water in the pool was green, not super dark green but sort of a greenish yellow, but mostly clear. It wasn't cloudy and there were no clumps of algae. After the pool was filled to the top, there was a definite green color. In many years past, whenever we fill the pool from our hose, it is always looks crystal clear and blue, even if it has zero chlorine in it at first.

So I used a Taylor drop kit to test the green water. My test kit only shows up to 5 ppm, but the chlorine was off the chart, super dark. I tried another Taylor test kit I had fun last year that had just expired (not sure that matters) and this one measured up to 10 ppm, could have been higher who knows.

The CYA in the pool was zero. Total alkalinity was 30. pH was low, can't recall the value because i don't pay much attention to pH until total alkalinity is ok To make sure our municipal water supply did not have high chlorine levels, I tested the water coming straight from the hose, and it had zero chlorine.

As a side note, after we filled the pool with hose water, we fished out the winterizing container (the big plastic white sealed container that we poked holes in last fall to release the winterized chemicals, which stays in the pool all winter). This container may have been in the refilled pool water overnight, at least for the entire time it took to fill the pool with the hose (about 10-14 hours).

So. Why the green water?

Was it algae growth because we opened our pool too late? Had there been invisible algae on the pool walls and we just didn't notice, and once water got in there the algae just perked up and bloomed fast?

Or...

Was there so much chlorine from the winterizing container that it superchlorinated the fresh hose water enough to turn it green?

I still don't know.

So here is what I did. Yesterday around 6pm I adjusted the total alkalinity. This morning I retested TA and it was good, and the pool was slightly less green. Then I adjusted the pH to proper levels. The pool was definitely getting even less green. I tested the free chlorine again and surprise! It was zero. So I added chlorine stabilizer to get it up to 50 (I was aiming for 40 but whatever) and planned to add liquid shock after sunset. The pool seemed pretty clear and blue by early afternoon. Almost good enough to swim in.

Back when the water was green, I read how to SLAM a pool, thinking I'd have to do that to get rid of algae, but I don't have a FAS-DPD test, nor can I get one in time. So I bought a case of sodium hypochlorote (liquid 12%).

At 9pm tonight I poured 1 gallon in by the return. I read that slamming requires 10 oz of liquid shock for every 1ppm increase in free chlorine. The CYA/free chlorine chart said I needed to get my FC up to 20 ppm for slamming. That would be 200 oz, which is more than the 128 oz in my gallon jug. I have more i could add, but here's my dilemma.

I'm thinking that maybe I didn't have algae after all. The water is clear blue now and FC is high because of the gallon of shock. My CYA is higher than I wanted, so now I'm worried that it's going to take a long time for the free chlorine to come down to swimmable levels. I don't want to go out there tonight and add even more liquid shock if I don't need to, epecially since I cannot do a true SLAM because I cannot measure free chlorine with the accuracy needed, and I won't be able to tell if there has been more than 1ppm loss of free chlorine overnight (because of my run of the mill Taylor chlorine drop test).

That's why I'm reaching out here. What I do will depend on what I think caused the green water. What do you think? If the water is clear and blue and balanced and stabilized, is it safe to swim in once the chlorine levels come down to 4-5ppm?

UPDATE: This morning, I ran tests:
CYA: barely visible, maybe 20 at most? Yesterday it registered 50. Granted, my CYA reagent expired in May 2023, but I'm not sure if expired reagent would cause an abnormally high or abnormally low reading. I'm adding more, as technically I only added about half of what I needed to yesterday, and was surprised at the 50 result earlier.
Total Alkalinity - perfect (110)
pH - super high, probably over 8.2. I used pH decreaser to get it down to normal range. Likely caused by the torrential downpours we're having here in the Northeast.
Free Chlorine: Now here's the weird part: It was OFF THE CHARTS again, but I decided to look at the expiration date on my free chlorine reagent. It showed 5/2023. Presumably that is still sorta okay. I tested with two other reagent bottles, one from 4/22 and another from 5/23, and both of those registered ZERO free chlorine. I used a different comparator for those last two, but when I tried using the first 5/2023 reagent in the 2nd comparator, the FC came back off the charts still. I guess I'll go with the "off the charts" reading and assume the reagents that returned a zero result are expired.
Pool looks crystal clear and blue today.

Any advice/input/tell me TLDR?? lol

Hello all,

First time opening the pool on my own. Thought I got it all nailed down but the pressure isn't enough as it's tripping the pressure switch on the heater. Here's what happens when I get start it all up.

1. Charge the return lines
2. Open filter release valve on Sta-Rite PLM150
3. Start system up
4. Everything looks normal
5. Close release valve on filter
6. Pressure on filter reads 35 PSI and stays there
7. Notice that heater starts up fine
8. Wait 1-3 mins
9. Heater reads pressure switch open

Pool and skimmer basket are free of debris. The filter isn't that old, looks in good condition, and was cleaned. I suspect the supply lines or the heater itself. Not sure where to look. Thanks for any ideas!

I have a Intex 16" Sand filter saltwater system. Pump failed. Decided to just replace the motor. Bought 1hp Doheny. Now I'm second guessing. Is that too powerful for the sand filter? It has 125 lbs of sand. (They say is a 100lb sand capacity but it took 2.5 bags to fill past minimum line).

Without knowing too much about the system, we were sold the Permasalt system in our new pool. After only one week or so we already have stains at the water level of the pool and I have to say I do not understand the system. I have owned a chlorine pool before with no problem. How can I come back from this? Is there any way to reduce the copper levels without emptying the pool? We JUST filled it. We have a 27 x 54 above ground pool.

We just purchased a home with an older in ground pool. The pool is around 18k, is plaster, and has an adjacent spa (see the photo). Currently there is a Pentair WhisperFlo pump, Pentair FNSP 48 filter, Mini Max NT 400 heater (inoperable), an Eco Matic ESC 36 salt generator (also inoperable), a spa air blower, three water features on the back wall (also inoperable), and an Intermatic timer (see photo). The timer, filter, and pump are working but who knows for how long.

We plan on replacing the heater and SWG. I thought since we are doing that, maybe it would be a good idea to update the plumbing as well, to maximize efficiency. (The brick behind the raised bond beam in the back is cracked and will need to be replaced. We are exploring removing that raised bond beam in the back, to enhance the view and make the back level with the patio, but that may be more appropriate for another thread). I am looking for suggestions on not only what components we should purchase but also if a change in the layout of the plumbing would help with space and water flow. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you.

Good morning!

Pool:
13,500 Fiberglass
Chlorine pool with Hayward Chlorine Generator (more on this later)

Specs from pool store test:
FC: 6.5
TC: 6.5
CYA: 84 (more on this later)
PH: 7.7
TA: 106
CH: 193
Phosphate: 0
TDS: 1,000

-We were dealing with what I thought was Mustard Algae early in the season, we tried multiple rounds of super shock and it continued to return.

- We then, before coming here, added Yellow-out, which removed the Algae but flipped the pool to Bromine...so we did a total water swap 2 weeks ago without draining, using the method described here. The water was the best it had ever been.

-We are now seeing a dark green, easy to brush algae build-up on the bottom of the splash pool and the main pool. We have tried multiple rounds of shock, as well as rigorous vacuuming and it doesn't seem to go away. The water is clear. We do run a chlorinator, but with the CYA levels already at 84 after the recent water swap, we are going to begin using the SLAM method with liquid chlorine and only relying on the chlorinator when we travel. We test frequently with FAS-DPD kit.

So here are the a few questions and I'm open to thoughts:

1. Is the algae green or yellow?
2. Is the CYA level preventing proper sanitization?
3. Should I drain some water and refill to get the CYA down before beginning liquid bleach?
4. I am trying to avoid putting anything other than Chlorine/Muriatic Acid/Baking Soda/Water in the pool, but am open to other treatment items if you have a suggestion.

Thank you in advance!

pentair IC 40 2 years Old
Lights all on. Looks perfect.
However. Not producing Chlorine.
All pool chemicals are perfect. No algae in water. It is clear. Cell is clean. I turned off. Reset. Everything.
What is wrong?

This crazy rain we are having is messing up my pool levels! I have the Taylor 2006 test kit-

Tested cya myself and could still see the dot at 30, so took to pool store for a test-

Chlorine level -8
CYA- 20
pH 7.6

I added one gallon of Liquid CYA. I’d like to SLAM my pool to being to shock level tonight if possible.

How quickly after adding liquid CYA can we test for accurate levels? I’m anticipating the gallon to raise it to about 45.

If my SLAM is 16, how many gallons of chlorine would you add?
How long after adding the cya do I need to wait before shocking?

My kids have hardly used the pool and we are hoping to swim tmrw- so don’t want to add too much chlorine!

Thanks

Hey Y'all,

Just got our first pool up and running a week or so ago. Have the TF-Pro test kit. Did some tests and have a few questions....
PH-7.5
FC-2.5
CC-0-.5
TA-70
CYA-about 40

The chlorine side of the PH test block is just there to show presence of chlorine, correct? The directions say this test should be done daily. Reading on this site it seems that you should be doing the FAS\DPD test for chlorine daily to get an accurate reading. Does PH need to be tested everyday? And if doing the FAS/DPD test everyday it seems the chlorine side of the test block is useless.

CYA test. Is it best to do this with a light underneath the tube? Or just fill the tube up, and when the dot disappears call it good? This test seems a bit tricky, especially with my bad eyes!

Also, if I understand correctly, anytime the test is supposed to change color, I need to add a drop even if it's barely noticeable and faint? So faint I wonder if I'm imagining it.

As for my test results, any recommendations? I'm going to add 3 cups of 10% CL to bring my FC up to 5, according to pool math based on the CYA level.

Thanks again for everyone's help! This site has been great for a newb!

Hello everyone! I am from Fergus, Ontario, . We have an 8 year on ground salt water pool. Generally we have no problems with that are not Hayward related. A bit of algae? Copper? Issues this year but we are working on resolving it.

I know it will be a few months, however, does anyone have one of these pools that lives in a colder climate North Central Michigan? Texas Splash very kindly gave me this link Closing (Winterizing) Your Above Ground Pool which I have read. We are older and do not look forward to putting this pool up and taking it down every year . Thank you .

I want to order some of the standard so I can see what I am supposed to call 50. The only 7065 I have found comes in 16 Oz bottles. Is there somewhere I can buy smaller quantities? Oh yeah I'm using the taylor 2006 mixing bottle.

Hi
I have a 27ft round radiant pool. I noticed a small amount of green algae on the wall near my steps and on one step. So, I shocked the pool using a 5 cups of chlorine 70%. The water turned cloudy ! It is now 38hrs later and there is still a hint of cloudy water. All my numbers are in range , stabilizer is off a touch. Any ideas , clarifiers? Should I shock again with a Super chlorinate?
Thanks B

Hello! I’m from Tennessee and have a new 27 ft above ground pool. We are active grandparents and hope to have this pool a long time for the kiddos. We have owned a pool before but it’s been about a decade. I’m looking forward to the advice and tips from real people!

I have an Easy Touch 4 control panel. I want to replace the faulty SpaSide 4-button controller with either a Pentair #520546 (4-button) or #520547 (8-button). I assume that both controllers will work with my system. If I opt for the 8-button controller, which other pool functions can I add? Sorry if this sounds remedial. Thanks.

Hello - Just had our new pool filled yesterday. We are new to pools in general, so of course every little thing catches our eye.

Plaster is Wet Edge Luna Quartz Bermuda.

This afternoon we noticed a dozen or so "rust" spots on various horizontal surfaces, mostly bench and steps. I don't believe they were present prior to water. Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance!

The eyeball at my return jet is stuck. I want to change its direction but won’t budge it’s stuck to the return. Anyone had this happen? Anyway to losses without taking the whole return jet and hose apart?