System is functioning properly but I have air in my lines. What can I do to get rid of this?

Hi, we need help. We opened the pool and we had a hole in our cover, the pool was disgusting. We got all the debris we could see and shocked it. It turned blue but very cloudy. After a week or so it would green again . We used the green to blue shock treatment. It just seemed to bring algae to the top of the pool to sit. Can’t skim it out because it breaks up and goes through the skimmer net. We vacuumed the bottom although we can’t see it… we just guessed. Now it’s green again with all this gunk on top…. Please help

Hello relative newbie here when it comes to pool ownership in general.
Decided to change my filter sand this year, and when purchasing more, the pool store employee was surprised by how little I wanted based on my pool size.
I currently have an above ground Intex Ultra Xtra 26' × 52" so ~15k gallons.
The pump and filter combo we have is the Intex sf70110-2. .5HP and a 14inch sand filter.

I am having my water routinely tested and keeping the levels in check, but it feels like filter is getting the job done. Am I undersized for the size of my pool?
What specs should I be looking at for these pool dimensions?

Hi All,
New the forum, lots of great resources. I seeking some insight on setting up the iAqualink 3.0 (iQ30) controller. Whenever I try to add the controller, I get the message: "Enter a Valid Serial".

I've read all related posts I can find and can't solve. This is entirely new control setup. I had no controller installed prior, it was all manual, so I just installed both the Aqualink RS system specified below as well as the iQ30.
I've confirmed I have a network & Internet connection. I've connected the iQ30 both through WiFi and then Wired to eliminate connectivity questions. In both cases I get an IP address on my network and can ping the unit. All 3 connectivity lights on the iQ30 are lit up (PWR, LAN, WEB). I've also done a reset of the iQ30 and removed and added it to the network. I've also tried adding with the unit in every mode (Auto, Service, Timeout). The 4 wire connection to the panel is good and I've disconnected and reconnected to be sure. I continually get "Enter a Valid Serial" in all cases.

Any suggestions? I'm also wondering if it's possible the revision of the RS4 controller I received is not compatible with the Aqualink 3.0/iQ30? I see in the installation manual it states:
" For use with AquaLink® RS for Systems with Rev R Firmware or later For use with PDA for Systems with 6.0 Firmware or later". I'm including a picture of my board (which shows "RevT.2G") but I am not certain how to confirm the firmware compatibility.
Here's more info on my setup:
Equipment Package: I purchased a new Jandy bundle & controller kit form eBay (.. I know). Here is the link:
JANDY IQ904PS POOL/SPA BUNDLE RSPS4 4 RELAY IAQUALINK AquaLink System Includes:
Aqualink RS 4 system for Pool and Spa Combinations

Thank you in advance for any insights. Below is the control board on my RS4.

I have an approximate 14k gallon Gunite pool filtered by a Hayward SP3210X152BH Pump driven by a Century 1081 Dual Speed Motor SP3210Z2ME. The pool was installed 3 years ago and everything was working great until Friday morning on July 14th. The pump was found not running, but normally runs in low speed 16 hours a day. The motor is started at high speed of 3 minutes to prime and get pump to speed before switching to low speed.

The problem now is when the motor is started on high speed it only gets about 10 seconds in until it shuts off. I have done all the normal troubleshooting, but the facts are I can hear the thermal protection contact click on the back of the motor and the motor is hot and emits some burning smell. I hooked a clamp on ammeter to the high speed wire and measured a current between 21 and 19.5 amps which it normally runs < 10 amps. I got more of a surprise when I switched it over to the low speed wire and measured 24 amps which it normally runs < 2 amps. I did have to cheat the controller 3 min timer to get the low speed reading by only letting it run high for a few seconds before going to low so that could affect it, but I believe it was up to speed.

For troubleshooting I started by removing both run and start capacitors and testing them with an LC meter. All check out within tolerance and there is no visible bulging or leaking of fluid. I took the motor off the pump housing and removed the diffuser and verified there is nothing clogging the impeller. I cleaned the centrifugal switch on the back of the motor and even took a video of it breaking contact when at speed with my camera to verify it is working right. I also cleaned the main filter for good measure even though the pressure has not changed from its typical 10 psi.

I am not sure what to do at this point. I am afraid the only possibility left might be that the enamel insulation on some of the windings may have melted together resulting in my motor being less of an induction motor and more of a heater at this point.

Hello everyone! I am new here and have been reading the site, we purchased our TF-100 test kit, and I feel like I've already learned a lot but have a lot more to learn, I am sure of that.

Our installation was on Friday. It's a semi-inground pool with a vinyl liner. We finally got it filled this morning and turned on the pump. We have the Frog System (we did not purchase this separately, it came with the package apparently. I have tested the water and the only surprise was super high alkalinity (330). Our pH was pretty good at 7.5. I am continually testing the FC to get it into range, as well as the CYA (both were initially at 0).

My question is, how long should I run the pump in the next 24 hours, knowing that the Frog System is adding chlorine as the pump runs?

Any recommendations are welcome! Our city permit inspection is on Tuesday and we are hoping to jump in as soon as work is over that day!

Hello! Having issues with FC in my IG pool. Pool looks clear - can see all the way to the bottom; no visible signs of algae or other debris. SWG not showing any errors (it is set to 80%, shows "Generating Sanitizer", and Salt Readout is 3100). My pump runs 24 hours and is programmed to run 3450 RPM 6a-6p; 1800 RPM 6p-6a.

My tested levels are as follows:

FC: 0.2
CC: 1.0
pH: 7.4
TA: 55
CH: 190
CYA: 60
SALT: 3400 (as tested yesterday; calibrated SWG yesterday evening to 3400, this morning shows 3100)

Yesterday evening I added 1 lb of "Burnout 3" (leftover from pool store) and FC reading a few hours after was ~5.0. This morning, it was closer to 3.0. I have put 2 Chlorine pucks in the skimmer (since my CYA is on the lower end of acceptable level).

My hunch is that I have a bad Salt Cell. It's Hayward Goldline TurboCell TCELL940 #4E19161 - 201435. I opened it up a couple of weeks ago to see if it needs cleaning but there was no build up).

Any suggestions on what I should do?

I have a common 6x12 skimmer and a skimmer basket(maybe 8in around). Its an above ground 18ft pool. The skimmer has a basket that you can pull out and clean. When I vacuum, i used a skimmer plate with a 90degree hose connector and thats that. Attaching the hose to this connection while maintaining prime is a tricky, two handed process that seems to be always be almost above the water. It sounds like its sucking a little air. How do you make this connection easier without the risk of sucking air?

The first 2 pictures are of the new plaster May 28. The last 4 pictures are of the stained plaster yesterday. I followed the TFP new plaster start-up as well as I could. I have a helper who works every other week. I have tried to get him to read and follow directions but he seems immune. I turned the pools over to him July 3rd and the spa was still bright blue with good chemistry. It's a bromine spa. I assume the staining is copper from the heater.
FC 7
pH 7.6
TA 80
I took back over on July 10 and noticed immediately the staining in the spa. I tried to test the chemistry but got strange results.
FC 10
pH purple
TA I added 2 drops of 7 and started adding 8, the sample turned red, I added 2 drops of 9 and it got brighter red and stopped
I used pool math and added half of the baking soda recommended. I waited a few hours and tested pH again. Still purple. I used pool math and added half the recommended dray acid. I repeated this process till I got the TA and pH back to 80 and 7.6.
So I have the spa back in shape chemistry wise but it looks like heck.

Hello. I have a Hayward Heat Master HML110TA heat pump pool heater installed in 2011. A few weeks ago I noticed the breaker was tripping. I replaced the breaker for a 60A GFI after noticing we had put a 40A breaker when first installed. Same behavior: heater fan turns on fine but after a 4-5 min delay when it attempts to heat it either trips the breaker immediately or after a few minutes. Hayward indicated it is likely the compressor. Should I call a service rep to check out compressor and capacitors or kind of futile given its age? Any ideas on what to check?

We recently replaced the heater on our 22,000 gal pool. When they removed some piping, it appeared to have some green slime that looked like algae. I did not see it, the spouse did. Didn't keep a pipe, so I can't comment.

The pool water is well balanced and we deal with an occasional algae bloom over the years. Can algae build up in the water pipes? If so, how do you test for it? How do you treat it?

Hello I just installed a Intex 18 x 48 Prism pool, I upgraded to the Intex 3000 GPH Sand filter with the 15,000 gallon Chlorine generator . I Am looking at the Hayward HP50AEE heat pump, the pool store says my Intex pump wont even have enough flow to use the heat pump, however based on the flow stats my Filter flows well above the Maximum recommended for the Heat pump... Anyways before I drop $3000 CDN to install this Heat pump I'd like a more educated opinion , thank you in advance

I just set up an Intex 16x32 Ultra. I thought that it was supposed to be a saltwater system but the pump and filter that came with my pool (Model SF70110-2) does not appear to have SWG capability. Is it possible to upgrade this system to have SWG or do I have to buy a whole new pump and filter?

Grand Risings Poolers!, We're Lynn & Paul. We're backyard Oasis 🏝🏖 Tiki Bar owners. Looking forward to interacting together. Stay blessed.

So up until this morning, my beach jets/bubblers were powered by a single speed Jandy pump. This whole time, I thought it was a 1HP pump, but I'm beginning to suspect the motor/guts were swapped out ages ago by a 2HP or 2.5HP version reason being (the previous service tech guy used to cannibalize things like that sometimes)... I just replaced that pump with a 3HP Pentair VSP (011056) today, and when the new Pentair 3HP pump is running he 2750 rpm, the beach jets/bubblers have the same flow/height as the old "1 HP" pump. That doesn't seem right to me, which is why I'm thinking the old pump wasn't 1HP, maybe the motor was swapped out to a 2HP or 2.5HP without me even knowing .

If I set the new Pentair 3HP pump to run at 3450rpm, the beach bubblers do go "slightly" higher than the old Jandy "1.0HP" pump, but not by much. I just can't believe a 3HP Pentair pump barely outflows a 1HP -13-year old Jandy pump.

Thoughts? Likely the 1HP pump wasn't a 1HP pump afterall? or am I missing something here (suction side and output side valves are all the same settings).

Thanks.

Hi all,
I've read the basics but am still a bit confused as to how to get started. I had a guy come to clean my indoor pool and he said that literally everything about the water is off.

What should I start with? Here's a pic of the pool. It's about 30ft by 15ft, 4ft deep in the shallow end and 8ft in the deep end.

Thank you!!

Greetings everyone!
I believe my pool is leaking from where the return jets enter the pool. It is a fiberglass pool. I have attached a couple pics from the eyeball assembly and have a few questions. My concern is there looks to be some separation from the faceplate and the pool wall. Is there supposed to be a gasket sandwiched between there that has deteriorated? Also if I understand correctly, I can use a spanner type wrench to remove the inner ring but that will only allow me to remove the eyeball, is that correct? How would I go about removing or fixing the faceplate to sit flush against the pool wall?

Thanks in advance for your time!

Always a crowd favorite. Let's see your fur-kids in action.

1. On the first of each month, a contest "theme" will be announced (i.e. water clarity, family fun, decking, custom features, lighting, scenery, etc)
2. Members have 10 days to UPLOAD ONE image for consideration; Photo must be related to the thread titled theme for that month.
3. Per general TFP rules, nothing profane, political, or insulting.
4. The first 10 days is the submission period. Posts are limited to ONE image ONLY. No discussion posts yet. This will make viewing much easier for all.
5. Days 11 - 15 the thread will be locked and is for voting only. No more uploads. Viewers now have a final opportunity to vote (or modify their selection) for their favorite upload.
6. Members are encouraged to use an emotion icon ("Like" or "Love") to vote for their favorite upload; it will be tough, but select only one favorite.
7. On day 16, emotion Likes/Loves will be tallied for a winner. In the event of a tie, we will create a poll on the thread to make a final selection.
8. Once a winner is announced, the thread will be unlocked and comments/discussions are welcomed. Winner and nominees can tell us all about their pool/photo/event.
9. A member can only be selected as winner once per calendar year.
10. Winner will receive a $50 gift certificate from tstestkits.net! Oh, and maybe some bragging rights.

This should be fun. Tell your furry family members it's time to go swimming. Let's see your pets in action! Have fun and good luck to those who apply!

I was wondering if it is okay to put the chlorine tablet in the skimmer? When I brought my pool water sample to a local pool supply store to see if it matched what I was seeing with my test strips I discovered my chlorine level was very low. I was going by the "total chlorine" measurement of my test strips (trying to get the ideal of 3 ppm) and wasn't worried about the free chlorine (which was very low). The pool story measurements for free and total chlorine tracked each other and were below 1 ppm. The strange thing is that my test strips didn't track. The free chlorine was way low (less than 1) but the total chlorine showed okay (around 3 ppm). I have another test kit that you put drops in that measures both ph and chlorine (doesn't say if free or total) and when I used this, it confirmed that the chlorine it measures is "free chlorine" because it matched my test strip for free chlorine (less than 1). Now I know to use the "free chlorine" measurement for FC if I use test strips or use my other test kit (or both). The Cyanuric Acid/Stabilizer was also lolw which kind of correlates to the low Chlorine and that also matched my test strip measurements.

Anyway, this finally brings to me to my question. The pool store recommended putting the tablet (one 3 inch) directly in the skimmer basket instead of the floater that I had it in originally. They also thought that this may brin gup the stabilizer level since most tablets contain stabilizer. When I looked on line about this, there were multiple posts that said to never do this. One actually said that it said on the tablet directions and it said not to do it. I just read the instructions for my chlorine tablets and it actually says that putting in skimmer is one of the approved dispensing methods. I guess it depends on the tablets you use. Right now I have it in the skimmer and the free chlorine is finally coming up and is around 1 ppm now. The strange thing is that now the total chlorine measurement on the test strip dropped so it looks like free and total are starting to track each other. I might do a shock tonight and see if I can bring up the chlorine level faster. Everything else except stabilizer level looks okay (pH 7.7, total alkalinity 102).

My pool is an 18 foot round Intex above ground pool.

I have a hydropool serenity spa. 1st year used bromine. This winter i switched to mineral sticks instead of added bromine. I noticed since going to mineral sticks in the summer now that it’s been getting hot the water smells very moldy/mildew. I usuallly dont add anything to the water with the mineral sticks just a weekly dose of shock. should i be adding bromine doses with the mineral sticks? I am purging the tub now and draining and going to clean and refill. Should I just go back to bromine?

Well, we're getting ready for our big Memorial day party on Monday. Cleaning the patio and ugh, it's filthy!
I've been sweeping, vacuuming, and hosing. Pool is 4 years old now and there's a bit of settling in some areas, so the water doesn't run straight to the drain everywhere. We have a birdcage.
We just have sand between the pavers (except where it's washed away and/or refilled with crud.)
The pool is perfect! How do you you clean your patios, tfp'ers?

Hi. My unground pool is heavy with algae. I cannot even see the bottom of the pool. I just learned I should be vacuuming to waste but how can I without a multiport valve?

Howdy folks, long time reader first time caller.
I was looking on the thread and found this older post Upsizing pipe size, worth the effort? that kind of seems what I am shooting for. I guess my question is if my pump has a 1.5 inch inlet and my filter has a 1.5 inch outlet do you still benefit using 2 inch pvc for all other fittings? From reading that it kind of sounds like you will have less restriction due to the valves/90s/straits/unions being 2 inch instead of 1.5 inch. So not as much gain if the pump/filter were 2 inch but less loss than if the whole system was 1.5 inch. Am I reading that right ? Or should I just stick to all 1.5 inch. I am replacing the current flex hoses with hard pipe is why I ask. Thanks!

Hi! My name is Melisa, and I still feel like a newbie after 3 years with our pool. We bought a house with a pool is March of 2020. It’s been pretty simple, but this summer has been tough! It’s so hot right now! Our pool is gunite and about 30K gallons. Looking to get a little more insight on fighting algae and overall pool chemistry!

We are planning on removing and replacing our pool next spring. Installed in 2009 with original liner and all components. Rust coming through wall on one panel. Planned on using the rest of summer then removing. This morning woke up to pump motor dead. Last year switch went out so I've been turning on/off with breaker.

My question, should I remove this week and leave spot untouched until right before next year install? Will this cause less work or more for installation? Better to drain and let stand in place? I know either way it's going to look ugly. I also don't want a mosquito haven. Thought about just dumping chlorine in periodically. Also will the sides just collapse anyhow if most of the water drained.

Any advice on removing, greatly appreciated. Direct me to any videos or sites . Been googling videos but they're either removal and putting up somewhere else or people shooting holes in the pool for fun.

Thank you!

Pool math has been a great help to me. I have it installed on multiple iOS devices and logged in with same account ID. My pool data has synced just fine across them. However, I added my mother-in-law’s pool on one device but it will not appear on my other devices. I did a full export and sent it to another device, but it will not load. I’ve swiped down in the app tens of times on all devices To no avail. Help!

Hey all, I am enjoying a new pool build here in SoCal. The PB installed the rectangle overflow pipe a little low and we lose water when the kids swim. Is there any way to plug this while we are swimming?

Brand is Overflo Over Flow

Hi All -

I’ve been using an Intelliconnect with my Intelliflo and recently received an alert about a communication problem.

My pump still functions but I obviously cannot change the settings remotely now. It seems relay 1 is empty, which I don’t remember being the case when I set it up.

Should relay 1 be set up as the Intelliflo? If so, how do I properly do that again? Pentair customer service is closed and I work about thr freezing temps tonight and was going to run my pump at low speed all night.

Hi all-
I’m not sure if the title of this thread is the correct term for what I’m looking form, but it’s my best guess!
The pictures do a better job. This plastic material is 2” wide and appears to have originally come in 10’ lengths. It covers a drainage channel in the pool deck. We had a massive hailstorm this spring which punched holes in the plastic. The last pic shows the underside of it. There’s no part number or manufacturer name anywhere that I could see, so I’m hoping somebody can steer me in the right direction as far as the name or a vendor that sells it
Thanks in advance,
Bill

Not sure why but this season my SWG has been scaling very quickly. I assume its due to my CSI tending positive quickly because my CH is high and my fill water is hard. This was my plan to try to slow it down, but not sure what the best/cheapest way to do it.

- Keep PH at 7.2 to keep CSI negative, but going to burn through a lot of acid.
- Read other threads that using borates could help lower PH inside the cell. Going to get test strips to see where it is now and add some to bring it up to 30ppm or so
- Start filling with soft water to try to lower CH over time as I don’t want to pump out water to lower CH

FC - 5.5
CYA - 50
PH - 7.5
TA - 110 (use so much acid and doesn’t go down much, was 130)
CH - 425
Cell Temp - Between 80 to 90F