Help! Our late 70s-early 80s inground concrete pool has a single bottom drain that is apparently sealed off with a plug. Why I don't know but I suspect the previous owner must have had this done in order to stop a leak. Assuming there is a leak somewhere in that suction line how can one find and repair it? Right now the only water my pump and filter get is through the skimmer.

1. Do pool companies or plumbers have endoscopes, i.e., cameras fitted to the end of a snake that they can see the inside of the line. I have access to a circa 2" PVC pipe at the pump end?
2. Are there other ways of finding and locating the leak if one exists?
3. How does one go about repairing the same if there is an issue under the pool?
4. Could one alternatively pull through a 1.5" or 1.75" tube and seal it to the drain (on the premise that even though water flow is reduced it would still be much better than nothing which is my current state?

Thank you for this forum and for any help you our your readers are willing to share

Appreciatively, Michael

My 15.6k gallon pool uses 2-3 ppm FC daily this time of year. We are going to be away for several weeks so for the first time in my 3 seasons of pool ownership, I am going to have to bite the bullet and use tablets. We do have an in-line feeder for 3" tablets, but I've just never used it so I have some questions. Also, I have someone who can come by 1-2x a week to check things, but not more often than that, so sticking with straight LC isn't an option.

I am most concerned about run-away CYA levels while being gone for 4 weeks. My CYA is 50 now, but on the advice of this forum, I have raised it as high as 70 to help with the especially hot Texas summers and it has worked. So I feel like I have at least 20 ppm CYA headroom. But I also don't know how many tablets I will use per day or week when I'm gone. (I hope to experiment this week to find out, but time is short before departure.)

Looking at the "Effects of Adding" in the Pool Math app, it says 8 oz of trichlor (I am guessing this is the weight of one 3" tablet) will raise FC by 3.1 and CYA by 2.1 (yikes!). If I go through one tablet a day (is that crazy?---I don't know---I run my pump about 5 hours a day at 1400 rpm) to get my 3.1 ppm FC, then I'll raise CYA by about 2.1 x 28 = 58.8 in 28 days! Am I interpreting this correctly?

If so, I obviously need an alternate plan. I thought about alternating trichlor tabs with cal hypo tabs (once the feeder is completely empty of course) to try to balance chlorination needs with runaway CYA, but cal hypo tabs are actually hard to find (especially in time before I leave).

Any advice, suggestions, or corrections to the above are welcome! Thanks!

PS Needless to say, this only makes me want a SWG even more!!!

About 3 weeks ago, I was a bit lax with my pool and came home to a green pool. It wasn't to terrible, so I just got it cleaned up and never SLAMMED. Pool looks good/clear. BUT, I keep getting persistent spots of algae in my pool. Especially the south side(shaded). I started a slam on Friday night. Saturday morning, I had lost 1.5 ppm of FC. Sunday Morning 1 ppm. This morning, maybe .5(if any). So, I am declaring victory on the OCLT. BUT, I still see some green spots on the bottom of my pool....not dead. See Picture(The pic is the bottom of the deep end...8 feet.) Now.....here is the caveat. Some idiot diy'er measured and replaced his own liner(that idiot would be me because I inverted a measuring on the form.) Therefore, I have wrinkles in my liner(This was done about 10 years ago.) I've never had problems like this before. I have been swimming around with a hand brush to clean the wrinkles. I am going to brush and hand clean the wrinkles now, then bump to mustard algae level. I read the article about mustard algae and cleaning everything thoroughly. BUT, how do you clean the solar cover? Does all of this sound like I'm doing the right thing?

TIA

Hey guys! First time using a FAS-DPD kit and I am just wanting to make sure im doing this correctly- I did the powder amd moved on to the titrate, the instructions say the solution will turn clear, however this is as clear as I was able to get my solution (picture attached). Is this as clear as it will go? It is still a bit tinted and not as clear as the starting water. At this point I stopped adding drops and moved on to the CC test. Following that, I did a second test to see if I stopped too early and my FC was actually higher but adding more titrate drops actually turned my test water more pink. I rinsed my tube and got new water between tests. Is this the color the solution should be when it’s “clear”? has anyone else had this happen?

Above ground 24ft pool. Pentair sand filter. I recently replaced the pump to filter hose and the pump lid has a slow leak when turned off. I put the old hose back on (replaced bc starting to show wear…see pic) and it doesn’t leak? Also, why does the return jet “gurgle” when turned on/off? Is that normal?

Is there a way to adjust the recommended or ideal range for CYA?

In arizona with a SWG I want to run 70 CYA and app doesn't like that

I tried to remove my pool return (eyeball) to build a PVC aerator for it. My eyeball returns don't screw in, and it seems the backside(male) is flared outward. So as I was removing it from the wall, the plaster started to break loose around the pipe. I stopped before I did any more damage and tapped the return cover back in place. image below.

Another option is that I have 3 bubblers on my ledge. The bubblers are just 1/2" PVC cut flush with the plaster. So I'd have to find something that fits inside tight enough that it doesn't shoot itself out.

For a third option, I have 3 brass deck jets that are flush-mounted. My pool builder recommended I replace my middle deck jet with this WMF Series - Crown Jet - Crystal. These run about $225 locally plus I need to buy a tool to install it which is $50-75. I am not sure it would line up correctly b/c the holes on my brass deck jet are not in the same location as the Crystal cover in the image. Needless to say, I don't want to spend $300 on an option that doesn't aerate a lot and may not work.

On another note, I run my deck jets and bubblers at night and the best they've done is lower the pool 3 or 4 degrees overnight (like 93 to 90). The pool normally drops 2 degrees if I don't run them.

Any advice is appreciated!

Suction relief vent pipe is draining water from pool when pump runs. Never had this issue before. I have (2) of these suction/safety relief vent lines and only 1 is draining.

What could be causing this???

I posted earlier this year about our builder abandoning job and having to figure out how to get things finished. We are in pretty good shape now, but it seems I need to add water every 5 days or so or I start sucking air at the skimmers. I watched a YouTube on how to find leaks and one of the culprits Rita can be the light fixtures. I went to all the light fixtures in the pool and the Pentair led lights were all tight within the housing, but the light in the spa is not tight. I turned it about 4 turns and it never tightened up and when I let go it would wind back to where it was originally. I could definitely turn the light more turns but was afraid I would create a bigger problem. Any guidance on the does and dont’s in regard to tightening the Pentair led lights in the fixtures? Thanks!

(see photo)
The timer on my pool isnt working, I just moved in this year and havent needed the timer, but just noticed the gears are not turning on it.
I look at some images, videos on wiring and then looked at mine(didn't remove the cover)
But the wires I can see don't match up with what I expect to see going to the terminals. I will remove cover tonight, but i'm wondering if the timer was never setup? Is the manual switch going to operate if the timer was never set up correctly? Manual switch does work.
This is coming from someone who thinks electricity is akin to witchcraft but I can install a new light or outlet just have no idea how it works.

I am struggling to figure out what the best CYA level is for my pool, based on my current conditions.
As you can see from my log, I got CYA to 50 on 6/19 (after having a staring point of 30 and adding stabilizer)....then it raised to 60 by 7/4 (I did not not do anything raise it 60). Now today on 7/17, when I tested it is 40 (again, I did not do anything to drop it to 40).

The last week have had RECORD heat and our pool is about 86-88 degrees. Could that cause the sudden and large drop of CYA? Is it typical for CYA to change alot in the summer under these intense desert conditions? Typically, we are burning through 4-6 ppm of chlorine per day (which based on FULL SUN, heat and everything else sounds within range?)

I have stabilizer on hand and have the ability to raise the CYA...but what should I raise it to? I have read some people maintain a CYA of 70-80 when they are in desert places during the summer. But, I am getting a bit confused reading all the various responses.

As a side note...we are going away this week for 4 days (Friday-Monday)...so I plan to take the pool to shock level and add 4 pucks (that go in a holder that sinks to the bottom) and take Ph to 7.2. So, knowing what my target CYA level will be will be very helpful in this process


Thank you foray help you can provide


BONUS Question: Most people say that a pool will settle/stabilize Ph around 7.6-7.8. Problem is, my CH is around 850...so,that puts my CSI at .6+. I also noticed that if I keep my Ph higher (and thus don't add as much MA as frequently) my TA starts rising. So, based on all of the above conditions...I think it is a better course of action for my pool is to aim for ph 7.2-7.4 even though that means me adding more MA and more frequently. That way it keeps my TA and my CSI at a better spot.

Hi-

I have an above ground pool, just getting it opened. I’ve added CYA- level is now 28 .
Had Combined chlorine, so slammed pool- brought chlorine up to 15.

Today-
CYA - 28
Chlorine level today is 9
Chombined chlorine- 0
PH- 7.4

Can kids swim with chlorine or 9? (Not ideal level for my cya, but ok since under slam of 12?)

Would you add more CYA?

How often do you test chlorine- how often do you add it on to keep it at a good level?
I was doing 4 cups chlorine per night last year, and that was getting old!

Thanks!

I installed a GVA-24 valve actuator to control a waterfall. It is plugged into an Omnihub. With power to the Omnihub, there does not appear to be any power to the actuator. Moving the switch to On1 or On 2 does nothing. I opened up the actuator and tested for 24VAC between black and red/white and got 0. Did this with the actuator manual switch in the OFF and On1 position.

Also tested the pins on the Omnihub connector and got 0. Assuming I should see 24VAC there but not sure.

Any thoughts on what to try next? The Omnihub and GVA-24 are both new but I suppose one or the other could be defective out of the box. Hopefully, I'm just doing something dumb that can be easily corrected.

Is there a way to delete a log in case I put a test result number in the wrong spot (accidentally logged my fc of 22.5 in the ph). I didn’t see anywhere to delete that entry. Figured you guys would know. Thanks!

For all those interested in the Hotspot FPH system I've got a story that has finally concluded and thought you all might be interested. I installed my system with the build of my pool just a touch over 2 years ago along with several tips and thoughtful advice from folks on here. Right around the same time as DrGlanton. My AC units were both brand new within one year prior to that.
Here in NE Florida, once we're into the full swing of summer, I don't run the FPH as the pool gets plenty warm all on it's own. (our preferred temp is around 87) So, my FPH has been turned off for several weeks and last week my fan on my AC unit died. I'd heard it making it a weird noise and commented to myself that it didn't sound good and a day later it was ded. Called my AC guy, who happens to be the same guy who did the FPH install work for me and he comes and troubleshoots and tells me that the fan is ded and will be replaced under warranty but that the part has to be ordered in and will take several days to arrive. In the meantime, the top of the AC unit is torn up, the fan is removed and the AC isn't runnable all while we are hitting 100 degrees plus every day.
In a nutshell, I turned the FPH back on, set my desired pool temp to the absolute maximum that FPH says is safe (94 degrees with an upper limit of 96) and proceeded to run the AC while waiting for the replacement fan. My pool got HOT, nearly 96 degrees BUT our house was nice and cool.
today, I'm back to air cooling my AC for the summer and my water temp has dipped back down to normal ambient.
Just thought any of you interested in the FPH might be interested in how it saved my family from melting for 5 days.

PebbleTec vs StoneScapes :
Cost per unit for installer

My installer quoted us PebbleTec and then ended up using StoneScapes Mini Pebble. Is this a bait and switch or is the cost difference negligible?

Moved from here.

So right now the pools doing pretty good, would you recommend SLAM at this point in the summer or wait until next spring. I didnt realize you could use the pool during the process but that actually makes sense. I planned on doing SLAM next spring. I did "shock" by adding a container of liquid chlorine after 4 days of torrential rains but other than that its been fairly stable..not great. I bought the strips before I found TFP and will dunk one once in a while but wont get new ones.

Moved from here.

I currently have 1.5" pipes throughout the system (including underground) and I am redoing the plumbing on the pad to 2". On the suction side, I have three 1.5" lines coming up next to each other which I will combine into one 2" line feeding into the pump. My question is, when expanding from 1.5" to 2" on a 90° degree turn, is it better (i.e., less head loss) to expand before or after the turn? Or should I use a 2"-2"-1.5" reducing tee which would make it look more consistent with the other two lines and cap off the other end? Or does it not make a difference from a flow standpoint? My initial thought was to use a 2"-1.5" reducing elbow (in the red circle in the diagram below) but I can't find one at the big box stores, so I am looking for the most efficient replacement.

Diagram (hope this make sense):

Second question: Does it matter which order the lines are in? Based on where the pipes come up from the ground, the drain has to be last in line (i.e., closest to the pump), but the vacuum line can either be in the middle (as shown above) or the first in line (i.e., the one with a 90 instead of a tee). Is that preferable?

Thanks everybody!

Lost balance recently so went to local store for testing. Followed directions, got meh results. So for two weeks I was at one store or another for testing and buying chemicals. Finally with a pool party upcoming I brought same sample to three different stores and got three completely different reports, some recommendations in complete conflict with another. Two tests were from the same chain that use the same test technology. Too much time and effort for questionable advice so I just ordered the Taylor kit and I’m gonna start doing it myself.

After thinking I was fighting dead algae, now I'm thinking the cloudiness is caused by DE/dirt coming back into the pool from the return. My husband ran our DE filter without DE when he opened the pool. It ran like that for quite some time in a green swamp. I killed off all the algae but I can't get the cloudiness to clear. I saw that every time I turned the filter on after bumping it, it ran cloudy white for the first 5 seconds or so. I originally thought that was just the force of the water coming out strong. Upon further examination I now see that it's a puff of cloudiness coming out. So it's either DE or dirty pool water shooting back into the pool. Even when I bump the handle, before turning on the motor, little puffs of dirty water come out of the return. Is this something that cleaning the grids in muriatic acid would fix? Or do I need a whole new set of fingers for $600

Our filter is leaking water out of the backwash pipe when it's in "filter" position. Pool store told me we need to replace the spider valve gasket.
However, there is no gasket inside. I heard from someone that some Hayward filters you have to buy the entire valve and replace that and that the gasket is inside of that. Is this true?

Hi everyone,

I have a solar heated pool with a “Pentair Suntouch” control panel. Recently I noticed that when I set temp lower than water temp, the Pentair shows “Water 80/70F SOL OFF”. And the Jandy Valve moves to SOL OFF position. It is great. While when I set temp higher than water temp, Pentair shows “Water 80/90F SOL ON/OFF”. It shows alternatively “SOL On” and “SOL OFF”. The Jandy Valve moves towards to SOL ON position when the panel displays “SOL ON” and the Jandy Valve stops moving when the panel displays “SOL OFF”. Eventually the Jandy Valve moved to SOL ON position.

Do I need a new Pentair Suntouch? If not, how can I fix this problem? Thanks a lot in advance if someone can help!

Hi there! Ordered what I thought was the correct diverter for the below valve but what came didn’t have a hole in the bottom to sit on the pin in the valve itself- I’ve searched and searched but I’m not sure the model and most pictures in the descriptions don’t show if it has a hole at the bottom of the diverter or not . First pic is valve - second is old diverter with hole at bottom

Hi again - still trying to figure out a clever way to create the illusion of an infinity edge when remodeling an existing pool. We have the perfect setting for a real infinity pool, but being on the desert side of an island with constant trade winds makes it very impractical, not to mention expensive. We pondered a zero edge, but that still requires major structure work plus major liability with no railing on an 18 ft plus drop. Therefore, this is the idea:

Recoat pool in EcoFinish Midnight Blue to match the water of the ocean it overlooks, new waterline tile to match (probably a dark blue slate look paver) with glass panels as the railing to surround and a new natural coral tile deck pavers. The hopefully “clever” idea is to use the same tile as the waterline on the front edge ONLY facing the ocean, so there is a consistent flow of the blue color with minimal visual break. Unfortunately the level of the blue tile will have to stay the same level as the rest of the deck. My thought is that a dark outer edge can act sort of as a “trompe l’oeil” zero edge - without any contrasting material on that front edge (such as same deck pavers as the rest of the deck) to stop the eye.

Has anyone seen this before? Unfortunately it will still be part of the deck, but hopefully will recede colorwise with the focus being on the ocean. Will post a photo below of the pool as it is now. (Note this is my husband and a friend placing finish samples on the bottom of the pool so we could see the color. We have had EcoFinish at our home pool for about six years and love it).

Any comments or suggestions welcome! Now to find the right tile. Nothing is easy in the pool world, is it? Thanks!

I replaced the cell due to low salt level reading, However, new cell only reads 2000 and I have reset several times. what could be the issue

I live in an area where we have a lot of stuff falling out of the sky and into the pool, particularly the cotton from cottonwood trees nearby. In the past this stuff is sucked into the filtration system and gathers on the cartridge filter. It can even germinate on the side of the filter. For a year I have been using the WISHDIAM Pool Skimmer Socks in my skimmer basket. Now I catch all of the debris that falls into the pool before it gets to the filter. I replace them more often in the times when a lot of cotton is falling, spring, and less often as the summer wears on. It has been a big help and my filter goes a lot longer without being changed. Here's a photo of a new sock in place and another photo I took of a used one!

I am looking to add a WIFI pool water sensor so I can remotely check my water temp from my iPhone... Doing research... it looks like I can use a Sonoff TH16 and a ds18b20 sensor plumed into my system to achieve this... I am not looking to do any type of automation... just read water temp... I see lots of confusing posts on here regarding automation and I got lost... can someone confirm if this will work?



Can the temp reading in the app be changed to Fahrenheit instead of Celsius?

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Hi. I have changed the rubber o-rings for each of the electrodes but water is still leaking from the large titanium electrode (on the left when facing it). When I open it, it appears that there is a large amount of pressure that is forcing the electrode up even when the cover is tightened and the motor isn't running. Not sure what to do here. The pressure gauge of the pump is fine and there has been no error messages from the pump computer. Any ideas? Thanks

I just bought an intex SX2800 sand pump put it together and it’s leaking right where the pre filter meets the motor control. I have reassemble 3 times and it’s not getting any better or worse the O rings are in place and are in perfect condition. It seems to be missing an o ring maybe in the second pic

I have been adding a scoops of DE directly into the skimmer basket nearest the filter. Is this an OK method or should it be mixed in a bucket and added diluted onto the skimmer?

Thanks for the clarification