Hey guys,

I had the pool half drained over the weekend (was exchanging water to get rid of iron from bad salt) and got a chance to look at what the surface looked like dry.

Since we have owned the house the pool has always had a mix of white and grey mottling. From my reading I assume it is from trowling at construction. Wanted to see if anyone here could confirm?

Close up there is a stark difference in the colour given off by the bulk of the beads!

Hi team,
Thanks for your work as always here on TFP.
I’m wondering if it might be possible to add some alternative options for chemicals.
E.g. sulphuric acid and different percentages don’t seem to be available.
I appreciate that sulphuric acid isn’t generally recommended but occasionally I end up with limited choice for a small quantity and it would be nice to log it.
I’m looking after my pool outside the US so the chemicals available are often of slightly different percentages.
Many thanks!
Saul

Moved from here.

Similar if not same issue Salt flashing red , Cell off , Flow Green , output dark, buttons more less unresponsive. no fix.

I’m brand new here and in need of help, but ready to learn and to put in effort. I’ve read up a bit on pool basics and TFP’s recommended conversion steps but still have questions.
Here’s the situation:
- 24’ (13000 gal) above ground, Hayward sand filter.
- I’ve used baquacil CDX system for 8 years.
- Pink slime, white mold, high costs last year got me looking for alternatives and I heard about salt water from my enthusiastic pool store. Yes I think I’ve been pool stored pretty bad for several years. I jumped at it without much understanding. My fault.
Here’s where I am in their process:
- opened pool early May, brought water sample to pool store. Since then using AquaChek test strips. I know…
- Adjusted pH to 6.8, added 6 lbs Shock & Swim and filtered 24 hours, then adjusted pH to 7.2.
- Added 1 gallon Target Super Shock each evening, filtered for 8 hours, then tested the end of the following day looking for free chlorine of at least 1.0 ppm and total chlorine reading the same as free chlorine. *I’m now on day 28. 28 gallons of Super Shock and test strip indicates TC 0.5, FC 0. Pool water is now crystal clear.
- I’ve already purchased Pentair Intellichlor 15 and bags of pool salt, but pool store says keep going with Super Shock.
Questions:
- What am I even converting to? Salt water? Or chlorine? (Told you I’m uninformed. )
- When I buy a good test kit, should it be for salt?
- Where should I be in TFP’s conversion steps and when should I get the pentair installed?
- Is this as much of a hot mess as I think it is?

I am so happy to have found this website and very grateful for any advice! Thank you!

Moved from HERE

I realize this is an old thread, but I’m keyword searching sand in pool. Did you figure out the issue @rvathomas?

New pool owner - first season,

trying to figure out how to position my return jets. 16X32 sports pool with 2 main drains, 1 skimmer and 2 returns. Outlined below roughly for positioning. Skimmer slightly more on steps side as opposed to half way. Two drains in the middle of the pool as deepest section.

___________________S___________
| ........................................................ |
| ..........................D.............................|
| ............................................. ........... | <------ Concrete steps (3 total), full width on this side
R .........................D............................ |
| ......................................................... |
________________________R_______

What direction would you suggest I angle the returns for water flow? Clockwise vs counter clockwise. Should I just accept dead zone for the steps and be vigilant about manually brushing every few days? Should the return jets be pointed downwards? Currently they are angled in a way that I can see some ripples on the top of the water surface from the jets.

thanks

Hey all - I was getting a hang of the pool stuff but I think I need help… the past week chlorine FC levels have been dropping fast.

9:30am on 6/13, zero FC chlorine

10:30am on 6/13, added 3 gallons of liquid chorine at 10% bleach. Sand filter backwashed

Noon on 6/15, zero FC chlorine, 0.5 maybe of CC, hardness 175, alkalinity 75, pH 7.8, CYA I think at 30

I have 7 gallons of 10% bleach on hand and 4 lbs of stabilizer. I would like to try and do what I can this afternoon as I can’t leave the house.

Per pool math to get to 10 FC, I’ll add 3 gallons bleach, then a few hours later can I start adding about 4 lbs of stabilizer? Then later tonight I will backwash filter again. Keep backwashing all week and doing FC testing.

Anyone feel different about these CYA readings per the TF-Pro test kit?

Any other advice or can I proceed?

I have a Hayward power flo matrix 1HP pool pump and a 16" Hayward multi-port sand filter. i have recently changed the sand, cleaned the laterals and inspected them for any damage. Put everything back and checked for leaks in the line. I back washed and rinsed a few times and turned on the filter. The PSI reads 15 at first and the water pressure from the return jet is great, but after a half hour the PSI goes up to 20 and the pressure at the return jet drops to almost nothing. I also noticed the pool pump is running a little hot, but the prime has no issues. I have tried everything at this point and the same issue persists. Wondering if anyone else has experienced a similar issue and may be able to provide helpful tips.

Now the topic of if a solar cover is effective, when it should be on, etc has been exhausted with the general consensus being to leave a solar cover on as often as possible.
However, I am curious about the effects of a solar cover when there is a drastic difference between the temperature of the water and ambient.
Let me explain my situation:

Here in Toronto, we just came out of winter and have unseasonal highs. This means that it's 27C outside, but my pool temperature is less than 15C.
At such a drastic temperature difference, would the solar cover act as an insulator, keeping the pool cold for longer?

It seems that this question has been asked before here, with a single user providing an anecdotal response
Does the TFP community have any thoughts on this?

Hi all,

Got an old 1960s-era concrete pool with a fiberglass shell in Austin TX. There is a 3 foot concrete patio + coping around the perimeter, which is bordered by thick ground cover where squirrels love to bury their seeds. We are constantly tearing out volunteer trees out of fear that the roots will damage the concrete shell but in recent years we’ve started to wonder whether this is really necessary—especially with the ungodly heat and a desire to retain some shade around the pool where possible. So here’s my question. We have a 10’ pecan tree growing 7’6” from the pool edge (and 4’6” from the concrete patio). Is this too close? I have no idea how thick the concrete shell is underneath the concrete patio, or whether I should be concerned about damage to the pool structure. The plumbing on this pool is very simple—one line from the skimmer to pump and one line out to two nearby return jets; all the underground plumbing seems far enough away from the tree so I think it’s really a structural question. Would love any and all advice. Photos attached. Thanks!

Daniel
Austin, TX

New here....this forum has been greatly helpful; thankful to the hosts, admins and contributors.

FYI - just replaced my start capacitor on my 2 speed Century pump. Unsure how old the pump is, but the capacitor I replaced had a build date of 2012.

I discovered is was the start capacitor because when turning on the high speed, it just buzzed like an electric chair without starting, but the low speed would run just fine. Here's the diagnostic and replacement video that confirmed if for me (my pump is almost the same one he is working on): Login to view embedded media
Just curious how often these things go out. Very easy and cheap replacement part, but just curious.

Thanks,

Pat

Hello everyone,

I hope you are doing well. Everyday I am noticing this grayish looking stuff in various spots settled on the floor of my pool. I just cleaned off my D.E. Filter grids and replaced the top manifold and don’t think there were any issues but now am worried I may have a D.E. Leak. Alternatively, I know dead algae may appear this color as well. When I brush it, it wisps up into a cloud. Below are some photos for reference. I’d greatly appreciate any thoughts if you have an idea what this may be.

Hi all, today I have the most strange experience when opening the pool. My trusted little cover pump was working fine and i moved it to a different area of the cover . It quickly stopped working and we were shocked to see the water there was full of oil and giving off this rainbow color on top. The pump is completely stuck. We removed some water with a bucket and it's also full of the oil, and our hands too after manipulating the lump
The water is also full of decomposed pollen and leaves, which is normal. I have no idea how the oil got there.

For background I left the cover on until now because a crew was rebuilding our deck. But I can't imagine they dumped any oil in the cover. However, it is happening near the deck...

I'm now at a loss of how to safely remove the cover with the oil in it. In the picture you can see the rainbow color of the oil on the right side.

Has this happened to anyone ?

Just let my pool chemical company go.
I have a Taylor pool testing kit.
My chlorine has been very high for 7 days.
I wonder if I am doing something wrong.
They had shocked it for algae problems.
18000 gal pebble deck pool partial shade.
Had been using tablets, now I’ll use 12%
Liquid chlorine by pool essentials.

Joined today but have read the forum a few times searching for answers. I love your philosophy and all of the information I have learned here. My wife and I bought this place in 2020. The house is beautiful, we have a couple acres, I finally have some shop space, and . . . . there's a pool. [ which why I chose "WhatPool" for my user name. ] We weren't really looking for a pool, but thought I could figure it out. I'm feeling pretty good since I have already replaced the Hayward pump and heat exchanger myself, and had the SWG installed. It has taken a little bit but feel pretty good about water testing and keeping things up. However, lately, I feel I've been "pool stored". Yes, I fell for adding Zero Phos and now I have a cloudy mess. It took about four days to clear when I added it two years ago, but now it has been a week. I am starting SLAM tomorrow and see how it goes.

I’m in the process of converting to chlorine from baquacil and I’m trying to keep the FC up to 15 but it’s taking a LOT of chlorine. I know that is expected but as the pile of empty bottles grows I’m wondering if the conversion is ever going to happen. I’ve not seen any “goo”. I did clean out the filter (cartridge) and it did seem to have some residue but nothing like I’ve seen people describe.
Also, should I recheck the ph at any point? If I started out with it in the recommended range will it hold?
Earlier today it looked like the FC was better but as soon as the sun hit it it was gone.

Hi Seasoned Pool People!

Last year I asked the group for filter recommendations and I switched from an ancient DE filter to a Hayward Swim Clear 325 sq ft cartridge filter. I’m very happy with the filter, it does a great job, without the mess. Now it’s time to upgrade the pump. I have a Hayward 1HP Superpump that was new when I bought my house 11 years ago (and it works fine every season) but I really want something much more energy efficient. The one pool tech person that I trusted told me several years ago that for a 6,000 gallon pool (it’s really a bit less) the 1 HP was probably more than I actually need, for future reference. I’m interested in a variable speed pump (although I’m not exactly sure how they work), I definitely would like a smaller electric bill. My utility company is offering a $500 rebate so I think now is the time to make the switch. I would appreciate thoughts on this.

Thanks,

Amy

I know it’s not needed but I was wondering a couple things about using . Is it like cya where it will keep building up in your pool ? What is the downside to using it besides spending extra money. My father in law barely tends to his pool. He breaks all the rules here. He uses algaeside and his pool is always mint . I love doing things this way I learned but I’d like to add algaeside to the mix

We don't have a landscape forum or one even subtitled landscaping, and this can make pool maintenance easier, more difficult, or an outright nightmare. We had a professional design the landscaping for our home. He also installed the larger items--ornamental trees: Eagleston Holly, crapemyrtles, purple vitex, and the subject of this warning: Southern Wax Myrtle. The landscaping was designed before we had a pool but with a future pool in mind and indeed included in the landscape plan. Note. I've lived in the South most of my 76 years, but before being presented with a landscape plan, I had never heard of wax myrtle--which btw, other than it's "last name", I am aware of no similarity with crapemyrtle. In fairness, the landscape architect did not put crapemyrtles in the backyard, and he himself has a swimming pool. Two wax myrtles on the west side of the pool (the long side) not five feet away. Two more north and east of the pool, 20 and 30 feet.

Wax myrtle was presented as a privacy plant and "evergreen." OK it delivered on the privacy feature. Evergreen, however, apparently has an alternate definition that is "drops leaves all year with a few more in fall and spring and quite a few more when the weather is hot and dry." Wax myrtle leaves are 1-3" long and maybe 3/8" wide. Skinny leaves that make skimmer socks no longer optional, as many will slip right through a regular Pentair skimmer basket and clog the filter pump basket. Where we are in southeast Texas west of Houston, the prevailing wind is out of the south. However from time to time we'll get a norther, so all the leaves that have been pushed north for months suddenly get a blow from the north. A few weeks back a big storm blew--no exaggeration--at least 10,000 leaves into the pool overnight. Luckily I was up before the scheduled filter pump came on. These leaves go to either the skimmers or get waterlogged and sink to the bottom. We've had some hot days recently--98-101 degree highs (with almost matching humidity numbers.) Variable winds. This morning at least 2,000 wax myrtle leaves in the pool.

So there you go. Even though I had never heard of Southern Wax Myrtle before 2017, I'm guessing they're now a common shrub/tree of up to 20 feet tall and/or 20 feet wide in usda zones 7-10. None of the descriptions I've found provide this caution, so I must do it. Do not put Southern Wax Myrtle within 40 feet of a swimming pool.

1

Hello there,

Our pool builder installed separate salt cells for the pool and hot tub. Our pool's salt cell appears to be setup to our omniPL automation and the settings are available on the app. The spa's salt cell system (aquarite S3) is not hooked up to our omniPL and the PB advised that we can buy a board to connect it. I see there is a product called "Hayward HLAQRPCB OmniHub Daughter Board". Anyone know if this daughter board works for OmniPL as well even though it says it's for omnihub or is there a different product we need. I know omniPL is fairly new so hopefully there is someone who knows this question. Otherwise, I guess we could just call hayward I'm assuming. Thank you!

I picked up some jugs at my local farm store and put them on my flatbed. The bet had something sharp on it and poked a hole in the jug as I was lifting them out. New shirt from Christmas so either the wife is going to make a shirt out of it or I just have a new work shirt.

Hello, just wanted to introduce myself. I will be moving in to a house with an unground pool and this is my first experience owning a pool. A little scared and apprehensive but appreciate this web site as I am learning a lot here.

I’ve owned a pool since 4/22 and have had a pool company weekly check the chemicals. Their visits are shorter and shorter. I do the skimming, brushing and calcium removal already.

At this point, i want to learn pool chemistry and be independent. I’m a bit nervous I may screw this up. Here goes!

my pool pump works great, my booster pump is only three years old, it tries to come on, then trips off. Just replaced my interflo vsf pool pump.
I have an easy touch system. I have a communication lost error I am also trying to resolve. Can you help me ?

I tried calling the number on TFtestkits.net front page, and I got a message that the number is out of service??

But, the main reason I was calling them.. I ordered the TFPro kit with the pH meter, and I've been testing my pool & spa for a week. However, I am having to use the drop test for the ph test, because I can't get the cap off of the tester. I just wanted to see if that was normally this difficult, and if I should go ahead and see about maybe taking a hammer to get that cap off.

Thanks,
David F.

Hello all -

Hoping someone could give me some guidance or advice. We have an automatic pool cover on our in ground. It’s worked great the past two or three years but it now appears to be slipping. Is there an adjustment or something I’m missing?

From what I can tell, this piece right here is supposed to catch the other lip depending which direction the cover is traveling and there’s just a little too much room. Could be off base here but just my guess. Couldn’t figure out how to attach a video so I put a picture.

Thank you,

Justin

So I'll start with this, my parents bought this house when I was 8 yrs old and my dad worked for a pool company previously and at the time of purchase. I learned the ins and outs of pool care, troubleshooting, opening and closing pools. I even helped my dad with side jobs when I was younger. Since then I've purchased my parents house and have always taken care of the pool.

I recently just upgraded from a hayward superpump 1.5hp to a variable speed. I also scoped my skimmer line and discovered a few holes from a groundhog that made a home under the concrete that surrounds the pool. So I replaced my skimmer line, installed a new jandy gray valve that diverts between the skimmer and main drain(main drain has been an issue since my parents bought the house) and installed the variable speed.

The problem I'm having is I can not get the pump to stay fully primed. So far I've open up the jandy found a partially crushed gasket, replaced with a whole new jandy head assembly. Checked every connection more than 3 or 4 times with all the usual methods garden hose, shaving cream and I've even went over every glue joint individually and added glue then turned on the pump so if there was a tiny pin hole the glue could be sucks in and seal the leak. Lid o-ring is magic lubed well, inlet oring is lubed and threading is teflon taped with liquid teflon on top of that. Drain plugs on the pump are tefloned and orings are lubed. Threaded coupling on the bottom of the skimmer is tefloned and liquid tefloned.

No matter what I do I can not get this thing to stay primed. I even got a replacement variable speed pump thinking something was defective with the pump. Another weird thing that I can't figure out is that I can prime the pump fully with no air if I set the multiport to waste. It will not prime on recirculate or rinse or filter. How can it prime to waste when it's pulling from the same skimmer line, the only thing that changes is where I'm sending the water too. So how is that making a difference when I prime but I can't get a full prime set to filter?

Sorry for the long winded post but I wanted to give as much info as I could even though I'm sure I forgot something. Thanks in advance for any help

My bird dog's learning to fetch in water. Best Tuesday ever.

Does anyone have a pool design that can allow basketball/volleyball, a tanning ledge for 2 chairs, and an area deep enough to jump into? It can be Freeform or geometric, any kind of shape. Looking for a creative design to make the most of our space. I just can’t seem to get to it. We’re going to wipe the existing path and landscape so we don’t need to work around anything existing. The back of our yard faces the west/sunset.

Thank you in advance!!