Are you running the pump? Test after running pump for 24hrs.

PoolStored said:

Go kit 3. I'm recommending the salt version because the shaft seal is better and worth it in my opinion.

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Thanks, I do have a Salt pool
looking at that kit the housing gasket doesn't look right, mine is a thin round o-ring and that one looks to be flat
could it be that the housing gasket shown recesses back in a groove? making it looks like an o-ring
the lid o-ring, diffuser gasket, and seal look exactly like what I have

PoolStored said:

Testing error likely. Pool water that is colder than 50 degrees will test wrong on CYA.

You want to have the pump running for 24 hours before you test. You also want warm the sample to room temperature for the CYA test.

Did you do the test outdoors in the sunlight?

Refresher... CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test

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Thank you. Its in the 40s and cloudy here right now and I did not let it warm up. Ill do it the right way tomorrow.

PoolStored said:

Ok, then what are these two for? One for pool return and one for fountain?

View attachment 633127

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Correct one for return one for fountain

Go_Bluewater said:

Perfect, thanks!

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Also:

Another stop gap measure...cut out a small triangle piece toward the top of the basket and glue it/silicone it in the opening at the bottom. The basket sides' close proximity to the walls of the skimmer pot should minimize entry of debris through the cannibalized side portion of the basket(s).

Just use dichlor, keep your free chlorine at the recommended levels. Once you get to 30 PPM of stabilizer which is ~30 PPM dichlor total added, switch to bleach/ liquid chlorine. Just a FYI, I don't know if anything has changed but years ago liquid chlorine/bleach would void your warranty.

If for some reason you feel the need to shock then use a slam level of chlorine. MPS will give you false readings of combined chlorine.

Yep!

Ok, will return the MPS. I just read the updated article you sent.

I think I am ready to start the Dichlor/Bleach method now.

One question about pool math, I already have my pool in the app, do I just add another pool and put it as fiberglass and 318 gallons to replicate the hot tub?

Testing error likely. Pool water that is colder than 50 degrees will test wrong on CYA.

You want to have the pump running for 24 hours before you test. You also want warm the sample to room temperature for the CYA test.

Did you do the test outdoors in the sunlight?

Refresher... CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test

When I SLAM, I check my Cl level to be sure it gets where it’s supposed to. It seems I always have to add a little more Cl than what is called for.

Go kit 3. I'm recommending the salt version because the shaft seal is better and worth it in my opinion.

The electrician came today, I watched him remove and install the motor
he started it up and left
it sounds and pumps just like the original
a very very slight leak has developed from the bottom, he did not replace any seals, gaskets, or o-rings
I called him and his reply was "you paid me to supply and replace the pump" he wants $90 an hour + parts to fix the leak
I will not be using him
looking at the schematic for the Super Pump, housing gasket, diffuser gasket, and shaft seal should have been replaced

You can also use the WIKI...both have most current information...

Left is MPS. Right is Dichlor.

You don't need MPS and I wouldn't use it.

MPS is an oxidizer and not a sanitizer.
Chlorine is both an oxidizer AND a sanitizer.
MPS breaksdown and adds sulfates to the water
Chlorine breaks down and adds chloride to the water
Sulfates, at high enough levels, cause crevice corrosion
Chloride, at SUPER HIGH levels, increases pitting corrosion
Most tub heaters are made of cheap steel or, if lucky, Incoloy (a high Cr/Ni content stainless steel)
Some people have skin allergies towards MPS
Almost no one has allergies to chlorine (those that think they do are often mistaken)
Chlorine creates chloramines which can be smelly and irritating
MPS typically only creates oxygen and nitrogen and it's oxides.

You absolutely must have a sanitizer in the water, that is non-negotiable. Oxidizers are important for destroying bather waste.

If chlorine does BOTH jobs, then why do you need MPS?

The sticky is a very old thread...we've updated our understanding here:

Maldravus said:

how do I get the amount of lc I need to add from the app?

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Maldravus said:

No, I meant pouring it into the pool following the tfp method. Not in the chlorinator. The chlorinator DOES still have some leftover tablets in it though.

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It is safer just to leave it, it will add a little FC and a little CYA.

Maldravus said:

I believe my TA is 90.

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Keep adding drops until there is no additional color change. Did you get a SpeedStir?

Maldravus said:

Thanks for bearing with me, this is a bit overwhelming.

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It gets easier every time you do it. You're just starting out. You've already got a great test kit, and will soon have PoolMath as an additional tool. (Remember, PoolMath is just a calculator.)

Maldravus said:

Is there somewhere on here when I can plug my numbers in and determine how much liquid chlorine and acid I need?

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PoolMath. I like to use "Effects of Adding". I also like the "Old PoolMath Webpage" (link at the bottom of this page).

Welcome to the forum!
I use just one stir cross. Rinse well.
The pH rises as your fill water has a TA of 130 ppm.
Use softened water for makeup water due to evaporation. Your pool will evaporate 1.5 to 2 pool volumes per year.
I suggest you read through Pool Care Basics - Trouble Free Pool and even look at a few of our videos TFP-TV - Trouble Free Pool