I need to figure out how many gallons to put in using the calculators....I can't find the calculator in the app only the Website. I was hoping the pool math app would have made this easier unless I just can't find it.

Paid for the upgraded subscription fyi

ol_whistle_britches said:

Have you programmed the pump schedule to run 24/7.

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Not yet .. That's next. As of now it's on manual at 2500 rpms. When it's at 1000 rpm or 1500 rpm the heater won't kick on. So I need to play with it and figure out the heaters minimum flow with this pump.

At Walmart now with 20 lbs of baking soda and 18 gallons of their chlorinating liquid

I removed the rear end cap. Motor shaft turns with fingers, with some drag. Wires look ok. Capacitor is not bulging, but I can't tell any more about it. "Its time to get rid of that 2hp energy hog anyway." Yeah, I suppose you're right. $2500.

PoolStored said:

You can run the filter, just watch the pressures. Clean the filter, note clean pressure. When pressure rises 25%, clean again.
You can vacuum to waste, and BRUSH. All will help.

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Pressure gauge is not working. Reads zero at all times. Waiting on response on how to replace or fix.

gmason86 said:

Also now found this well recommended. Reviews mention people using it in pools too:

Amazon.ca

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Loctite is a good brand. The package states it is for aquarium use, so it is good underwater. The concern is not that it contains toxic material as you aren't "breathing" the water as a fish would. It is that some products are designed for use underwater and some aren't. Given a choice, I would opt for the former.

It’s a sand dollar SD 40. I’ve attached some pics. We bought it in 2017.

The full strength Ahh-Some is not sold in some EU countries since the active ingredients are not sourced in the EU. Total Water Products should have their version of the cleaner they can offer you. Some UK countries do allow the sale of Ahh-Some. I was not aware of the actual French regulations.

0xblurz said:

Is that a big issue?? The handle still turns.

The pool return jets. One nearest the pump works well, the other two not so much

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Not usually an issue as long as the MPV is not leaking between its internal ports which usually shows up as water continuing to flow out the backwash line.
Since you have a new gasket, be sure to only turn the handle one direction or the other when moving between positions. Going to one position and then reversing to go back can cause the gasket to be pulled from its slot in the valve body. Its just good practice.

Thanks for responding. I have another thread going to see if anyone could help me trouble shoot my inoperative pump. We had a thunderstorm (much lightning/thunder) the other night, and the 5 yr old main pump that had been working fine now trips its breaker immediately, so it won't run. Everything else is operating normally (two other pumps, lights, blower). With the help of somebody on here I tested the electronics, and they seem ok. Eliminated the SWG as well. Narrowed it down to the pump. Removed rear cap and motor shaft turns snugly/with some drag with fingers. That pump is not sold anymore.

Ok thank you for all your responses. I ended up cutting the pipe, installing unions and getting the old male threaded pvc out of there. It was cracked and I guess as a temporary solution the previous owners had put a bunch of glue in there. Was a mess to get out. Anyway reinstalled a new male end with union and new pvc extension and it’s working great!

It would be wise to have your pump, filter and any other equipment sitting on a concrete pad. Then you don't have odd movements of the components causing plumbing issues.

Have you programmed the pump schedule to run 24/7.

wireform said:

Could be as much as 2.5 wc. What puzzles me is it worked like this the last few years and I only took over this pool last pool season so nothing would have changed other then a component within the heater, that's what my brain tells me. Yes, the meter on the house is tool small for all but when the pool season is on then the heat in the home is off and as I said before, it has been working flawlessly up to now.

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Is the heater gas supply hard-plumbed or flex? If flex, that can cause problems, usually immediately, but sometimes it shows up later. I can't tell you how many times I have heard, "It always worked that way before." Then I hard-plumb the heater and it works again.
A small gas meter can still be an issue, even if house heating is off. Most residential gas meters are able to pass 250 cu. ft./hr. unless they are upgraded or the house is very large. That's already too small for a 335K heater. With gas at a property the water heater is most likely a gas appliance as well as the range in the kitchen and a gas clothes dryer.
The average rate of gas usage of a water heater is 1cu. ft./hr. per gallon of capacity (more efficient ones do use a bit less). So a 40 gallon water heater will be requiring 40K BTU/40 cu ft. worth of gas per hour, and since the supply to that appliance is likely closer to the meter, it will get it before the pool heater. A large home would likely have a larger water heater, maybe a 50 or 60 gallon model.
If the 40-gallon water heater is running and your meter is already small, that leaves you short 125K BTU of gas. Then, they may also have a gas clothes dryer running. They usually require about 22K BTU/22cu. ft. when the burner is on (which is not continuously).
Add and older heater and the problem can show up eventually. Having enough pressure, measured in w.c., does not always mean there is enough supply.

Forgot to note it is leaking where the 2 halves join.

coachhim said:

One place I was trying to avoid. They are expensive

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Quality products are.

The advantage of the outside coupler is no reaming is necessary. You can leave the cut pipe inside of the socket.

GOEasyNow said:

Out of curiosity, does a pool heater (depending on the BTU output) pull so much gas that a residential supply for a 3000+ sq ft house not support it? (that my explain why my neighbor has a second meter).

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Many houses have a 250 CFM/BTU meter as standard which is too small for a 400K BTU heater.

ajw22 said:

Tile

e-zpatch.com

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One place I was trying to avoid. They are expensive

Excuse my ignorance, if I'm cutting in that super small cap in between the check valve and diverter, I'd then need to take a PVC socket saver to it.

OR I could have a larger coupling go over the top (like in your image) and just leave the cut PVC in there? Is that the advantage of the coupler?

At least One between filter & returns
( i have 3 - 1 three way at the filter that i never turn,
and 1 at each return near the pool wall so i can control my cleaner with one & fountain with the other this may not apply for you if you only have 1 return jet)
Then One between skimmer & pump so you can clean out the pump basket.

In 8 years I have never even undone the union between the filter & pump so I don’t imagine you need a valve there. A union would suffice for maintenance/replacement purposes
With one one each “side” of the pool you can effectively isolate your pool from your plumbing if necessary.

Quick update, I'm still waiting on the pool to be "clear". I keep taking pictures but it's been overcast and honestly it looks much clearer in person than in the photos so I know if I post the pictures I'll be told it's not clear yet.
That being said, salt was low and the pool company came by and finished adding adding more salt and left the rest here. They never finished the install because of the power issue I mentioned in my original post so they came back today to verify wiring and add more salt. I tested my salt a couple days ago and it was at 2400 and my IC40 says ideal levels is 3600. PoolMath said to add 5 bags, so I had them add 4 bags and I'll retest and add the rest myself. I'd rather bring it up slow and then add more instead of going over. I've figured out that I need to run my IC40 at 80% for 8 hours a day with my Superflo VST at 2500 rpm to meet 2ppm a day (which is my first guess as to my daily loss). I want to keep my pump running 24/7 so I'll probably drop the pump down to 1200-1400 rpms the other 16 hours. Is there any downside to the SWG being powered on but having the red flow light on because there isn't enough flow? My understanding is that if it's red it won't attempt to produce chlorine. This also shouldn't affect it's lifespan because it isn't actively producing chlorine. I just want to verify my setup, while not ideal in terms of automation or being able to produce chlorine at a super low rpm, it still functional and safe.

Closing the loop. Got it wired in and functioning.

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