Pas_pool said:

So it sounds like if I don’t get a flow meter installed when I turn it on I can try 2200 rpms and see if that works. And if it shows errors bump it up to 2400 or so.

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I had a heat pump for 8.5 years and never knew my flow. I speak RPM and not GPM.

Just like the SWG, start low and increase RPM 100 at a time and when the HP turns on, thats the flow it needs. Your flow will be restricted slightly as thr filter gets dirty so add 100 RPMs and thats the speed you need to run for the heater.

Pas_pool said:

My PB said he has the same exact set up and he runs his pump at 2200rpms 24/7 as well. So I am sure that will work

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Footage to the equipment matters, and so does pool to pad elevation. The general set up can be the same and also very different.

Interesting…today salt 2800 (i guess rain has an effect) and FC dropped to 14

It’s always best to be present on shotcrete day and make contact with the foreman of the crew and go over as many specifics that you have (written down) regarding the project, glad things ended up well.

ajw22 said:

Yes

No. It has enough internal protection that it will give errors if not enough flow.

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So it sounds like if I don’t get a flow meter installed when I turn it on I can try 2200 rpms and see if that works. And if it shows errors bump it up to 2400 or so.

My PB said he has the same exact set up and he runs his pump at 2200rpms 24/7 as well. So I am sure that will work

Pas_pool said:

Will it simply not run if too low?

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Yes

Pas_pool said:

Or will something get damaged?

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No. It has enough internal protection that it will give errors if not enough flow.

ajw22 said:

Try 2400

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I haven’t even turned the heat pump on yet. How would I know what works. Will it simply not run if too low? Or will something get damaged?

Natalie,

The cell does not constantly monitor the salt level... It tests the salt at start up, and then every 12 hours.. That is what is happening when the red and green salt lights flash like a railroad crossing.. This usually lasts about 5 minutes or so..

You might want to turn it off and on a couple of time over the next day or say and see if the reported salt level is still 3750..

The cell uses a thermistor inside the flow switch to adjust the salt level based on the water temp.. Sometimes this thermistor goes bad. Replacing the flow switch usually fixes the problem.

That said, the cell's salt test has a tolerance of +/- 600 ppm.. I would not even think about replacing the flow Switch unless the difference between your actual salt reading, and the cell's reported salt reading, was more than a 1,000 ppm, or if it was keeping the cell from working.

Never trust what the cell reports until you verify with the Taylor salt drop test..

Thanks,

Jim R.

icngacsn said:

"LBut - I cannot find out where one can change between "MASTERTEMP" and GAS HEATER". If anyone knows please let me know.

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You have to delete the incorrect heater entry and then ADD a new heater.

There is no way to modify the heater type.

PoolStored said:

Use eye protection. If you get acid on hour hand, just dunk it.

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Thanks

ajw22 said:

I live dangerously. I eyeball it.

32 oz is about 1/4 gallon. 64 oz is 1/2 gallon. I add it to the pool and test in 30 minutes and see how I did.

I uncap the bottle standing at the edge of the pool, lower it to the water, and tip it to slowly pour, then cap it. Little risk of the MA going anyplace other than the water.

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yeah that's how I’ve been doing it too so far. I should go out and test soon to see how I did

water0125 said:

Using the Taylor salt test, I've now brought my salt up to 3200. However, my Pentair Screenlogic app is still reading 3750. Any ideas on how to get it to start reading correctly? Thanks!!

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It is close enough if your cell is happy and generating.

There is no way to adjust the cell salt reading.

I live dangerously. I eyeball it.

32 oz is about 1/4 gallon. 64 oz is 1/2 gallon. I add it to the pool and test in 30 minutes and see how I did.

I uncap the bottle standing at the edge of the pool, lower it to the water, and tip it to slowly pour, then cap it. Little risk of the MA going anyplace other than the water.

Can we get a full set of test results, including the diluted CYA test linked above ?

Using the Taylor salt test, I've now brought my salt up to 3200. However, my Pentair Screenlogic app is still reading 3750. Any ideas on how to get it to start reading correctly? Thanks!!

Red and black wires with tape go to breaker.
Red and black wires that are not taped are from pump conduit.
White and yellow wires go to large transformer.

icngacsn said:

I also noticed that I still have no system temperature history on 3.002.

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History for me was fixed under 3.004

icngacsn said:

I cannot find out where one can change between "MASTERTEMP" and GAS HEATER". If anyone knows please let me know.

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Under advanced installation settings , heaters , you select connected gas. It will only allow this if it detects a heater on the rs485 buss.

Relay Terminals left to right 1,2,3,4.
Term 1 black to breaker. Term 3 red to breaker.

Term 2 black is from conduit of main pump. Term 4 red is from conduit of main pump.

Term 2 white and term 4 yellow go to large transformer.

TinFoilHat said:

Use a measuring cup. One that has cups/pints and ounces on it - no glass. One gallon is 128 oz. Safety glasses if you're paranoid. Gloves are not needed. If a drop gets on you then dunk in the pool.

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Thanks

James L. said:

The relay has 4 terminals and six wires connecting to it. Terminals left to right I'll call 1,2,3,4.
The main pump wires (red and black) from the main pump conduit connect to the relay (black to term.1; red to term.3). A different black goes from term 2; and a different red goes from term4 to the breaker that trips.
White wire connected to term 2, and yellow wire that connects to term 4 go to large transformer.
Are the white and yellow wires the SWG wires?
The SWG has a 4 wire bundle that goes to a connector to the salt board.

I sent this post before reading your last post.

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Terminals 1&3 should have power from the breaker, 2&4 to the equipment. That is the "standard" way. The way yours is works, but can get confusing to a service person trying to help.
White and yellow should be the SWG. Where are they connected?