I'd love to limit my pH drift by dropping TA to 60, as this approach was worked very well in my spa. However, I find it challenging to get the right mix of other levels in Pool Math that result in CSI around -0.15 (midway point of 0.0 to -0.3 target range). Here are my preferred targets:

TA 60
pH 7.6
CYA 70
CH 450
Salt 3400
BOR 40
Water Temp 80

However, at these levels, my CSI is -0.37. If I drive pH up to 8.0, I get CSI to my target at -0.14 but I feel like I'm right on the edge with pH, as my understanding is I never want it to exceed 8.0. I could push it to 7.8, but that leaves CSI at -0.24, resulting in both pH and CSI a bit closer to the edge of my acceptable ranges for both. Am I missing something? My SWG calls for 3,400 as the ideal. CSI is relatively insensitive to BOR levels. Not much room to play with CYA given recommended 60-80 range. There is some ambiguity on TFP re: acceptable CH levels (the ABCs of Pool Chem calls for 250-650 but the sticky TFPC for Beginners calls for 200-400), but even if I pushed CH up to 650, I still end up with CSI of -0.21.

Appreciate any guidance!

I am looking at a heater that is a legacy LRZ400EN Model. We are getting this error code. I am guessing this has something to do with the flame sensor.

Any guidance out there that would be appreciated of parts that we could try to clean or replace

Picture has the error code. It says fault, check ignition control.

Please advise.

So, in my preliminary research on this, there are 3 primary options -- Hayward Omnihub, Pentair Intellicenter, and Jandy-something -- but the internet is kind of a mess on the subject, so I don't know what else is out there, whether any of these fall into the "hard avoid" category, and whether there's a general consensus on which one is "best." I know from experience in other areas that there are often lots of options for devices that do similar things, but the community tends to settle on one that rises to the top, and I'm wondering if that's the case here too.

I have the following:

• 25,000 gallon basic rectangle vinyl in-ground pool (2 returns, 1 skimmer, 1 vac)
• Hayward SWG setup w/ Aquarite 900 panel & TCell 940 cell.
• Rheem Heater
• Intellipro VSF Pump

I would like to install a smart controller (ideally controlled by a smartphone app; integration with HomeKit or HomeAssistant, a plus, but not necessary) that can do all of the following:

• monitor pH, FC, and salt (others would be nice, but not necessary)
• adjust the chlorine output from the SWG (ideally, automatically based on the FC levels reported by the monitor)
• notify me if pH is high or low with instructions on what to add and how much
• notify me if salt is low with instructions of how much to add
• allow me to put the VS pump on a schedule and otherwise adjust speeds remotely
• allow me to open/close valves (drain, skimmer, vac) remotely
• allow me to turn on/off, and adjust temp on heater remotely

This would also be nice, but I haven’t even found a product that does this, so this is, at least as far as I know, imaginary:

• add pH Up or pH Down preloaded into some sort of hopper/reservoir, as necessary (again, ideally automatically based on the FC levels reported by the monitor)

Hey all,

We left the pool uncovered over the winter due to mobility issues, and it got nasty. We decided to full drain to make it easier to clean out and have noticed some wrinkles and folding in the liner along the pool edges. I was thinking that the water pressure would push them back out once we refill, but wanted to check with the gurus first. Any steps I need to take or be aware of as I proceed?

Thanks,
Jason

Hi all,
Thank you for the help - my SLAM process cleaned up the water well. My question is this: how low must the chlorine go before resuming the tests for the other levels? TIA

I was told years ago to lower alkalinity to turn off pump. pour a quart of muriatic acid in deep in of pool let it set. The theory was it burned a hole in the alkalinity. My TA is 160. My pH is 8.0. 15500 gal, Salt pool.cell 940 (C-15)