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PH woes

PoolStored
pH rise is caused by LOW ph, High TA, and aeration.
If you force pH down to 7.2, it will want to rise rapidly. When your TA is 60-80, let pH sit at 7.8-8.0, which is just fine.
TA is only changed by inputs. If you are adding water to your pool and TA is rising, test the TA of your input water.
As TA rises, pH will want to rise. That is why we recommend TA of 60-80.
Just manage your pH in the 7s. When TA gets to 60-80, stop forcing pH down to 7.2.
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Extended SLAM- pool cloudy

L
ajw22 said:
when did you last check your CYA level?

Are you testing 30 minutes after adding liquid chlorine to confirm you got FC up to or past SLAM level?

Last CYA test I see in your log is 25. We round up and that should be 30.

I see no log entries for FC or 12 or above.

I think you need a bit more CYA and need to be adding more liquid chlorine more frequently to get ahead if the algae replication.
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I believe 25 was an error. And I just rechecked it and it's at 30. Should I go for 40?
PoolStored said:
Get that ladder out of the pool, clean it INSIDE and out with bleach:water solution. Leave it out until SLAM is done.
You likely have algae inside the ladder that is continuing to consume your FC.
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I'll try to find someone to help me get it out of the pool.
ajw22 said:
when did you last check your CYA level?

Are you testing 30 minutes after adding liquid chlorine to confirm you got FC up to or past SLAM level?

Last CYA test I see in your log is 25. We round up and that should be 30.

I see no log entries for FC or 12 or above.

I think you need a bit more CYA and need to be adding more liquid chlorine more frequently to get ahead if the algae replication.
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I just rechecked it and it's 30. Should I try to get it to 40?
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Chlorine pricing 2025

T
One of the threads is a spreasheet that is being updated by members posts. The best pricing, by far, is Walmart at $5.47 per gallon of 10%. There are many other sources such as pool stores where you can usually get 12.5% at a higher price. Also Pinch a Penny, Ace Hardware, and Menards. The big box home stores usually carry it but the dates can be old and the chlorine is likely stored outside in the heat.
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Jandy pro series truclear salt system display light is on but no info displayed

Z
Had a similar issue last year and now again. These systems are poor quality and the screen stays on 24/7 when the pump has power. Last year I opened the system and cleaned out an ant farm. Attached cables etc, this year opened and cleaned lightly. Screen displayed yesterday not back to ON but clear. Jandy needs to update the system already and make the cell housing backwards compatible.
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White Cloudy Pool

PoolStored
dr53sk said:
I'm not sure I understand. The SLAM article stated my criteria for a successful SLAM was meeting my SLAM Level (16), crystal clear water, CC of 0.5 or lower and no drop in CL overnight. I met all of those. Could you clarify what I missed? Thank you.
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Slam criteria:
  1. CC is 0.5 or lower
  2. AND your overnight chlorine loss test shows 1.0 ppm of loss or less
  3. AND pool water is crystal clear with no visible sign of algae (dead or alive) on floor and walls
Includes nothing about hitting FC slam Level...

Here is the link to overnight chlorine loss test....Link-->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

Here is a link to SLAM. Print the SLAM article out and keep it with you, it really helps. Link-->SLAM Process
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White Cloudy Pool

D
duraleigh said:
Review the SLAM article. You are not doing it correctly. You need to add enough chlorine to get back to 16 ppm each time you test. The article will also teach you when you are finished with the SLAM.
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I'm not sure I understand. The SLAM article stated my criteria for a successful SLAM was meeting my SLAM Level (16), crystal clear water, CC of 0.5 or lower and no drop in CL overnight. I met all of those. Could you clarify what I missed? Thank you.
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PoolStored
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Pump issue

Sendit6
Opened the pool this week and the pump won’t start.
1.5 hp single speed. Olympic brand.

Electrician came over and tested the switch on the wall, said there’s power going to the switch and power leaving the switch. For some reason he took the switch halfway apart and said he’d be back to test if it was the capacitor or something else.

Hasn’t come back since then, hasn’t returned cal or multiple texts.

The pool store said they’ll pro-rate the warranty for a new one, essentially giving me a $200.00 credit towards a new one. Which is great, but I need to find out what the deal is with this one.

Anyone have any insight as to what the issue could be?

This is how they left it:
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