PoolStored said:

Ball valves should never be put in pool plumbing.
Kaplans bronze metal, they are ok and can be replaced, but CMP diverters are the same price.
Stopper are bronze medal. They work, but are a pain vs. just move a diverter.
DIVERTERS are gold medal. They can be rebuilt. Jandy, Hayward, Pentair and CMP make gold medal diverters.
The filter, being "closed," when you open the pump lid will do nothing.
Get a good CMP valve for the suction side (between pool and pump), and another for the return (between filter and pool).
Put Unions on the the input to the pump and return from the filter.

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By saying "medal" you're basically ranking them right?
The Kaplans are very well rated hence why I was looking at them.

And what I meant by the multiport, if it's in closed position then water from return shouldn't rush back into pump basket right?

What is your pH and TA before you adjust it?

Why do you need to raise the pH?

What is lowering your pH?

What chemical is in your pH UP?

How are you chlorinating?

Kaptain said:

You know one thing I did not do last night was closed the chlorinator valve. Not sure how it effects the over night test but

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Yikes! Great catch. Likely doesn't matter at this point, we are just trying to keep about 3-5FC in the pool with no CYA to stave off algae growth until you get your kit. No worries...but you are catching on!

Kaptain said:

Day 2 and I have FC of 5 and TC of 7.5 I'll report back in the morning. I turned off my chlorinator this evening as well

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From the DPD? Great. All we are trying to do is keep the algae at bay until your kit arrives.
Just add chlorine for the moment. The fact that you are holding chlorine is good. That means no ammonia.
You are autopilot until the kit arrives.

Richie-Czech said:

The question I have is should I even bother with valves?
If I need to isolate the system, I use the rubber stoppers.
The only valve I can think would be useful would be between skimmer and pump to easily clean out pump basket. But the filter itself has a "closed" on the multiport, so that's basically a ball valve.

Looking at Kaplan 2" valve. They're $40/ea so wanting to make sure I'll actually need 2?

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Ball valves should never be put in pool plumbing.
Kaplans bronze metal, they are ok and can be replaced, but CMP diverters are the same price.
Stopper are bronze medal. They work, but are a pain vs. just move a diverter.
DIVERTERS are gold medal. They can be rebuilt. Jandy, Hayward, Pentair and CMP make gold medal diverters.
The filter, being "closed," when you open the pump lid will do nothing.
Get a good CMP valve for the suction side (between pool and pump), and another for the return (between filter and pool).
Put Unions on the the input to the pump and return from the filter.

Day 2 and I have FC of 5 and TC of 7.5 I'll report back in the morning. I turned off my chlorinator this evening as well

PoolStored said:

Great, we lost some chlorine overnight, not sure how much. Great job.

1. Get pool math if you don't have it. Link-->PoolMath
2. Configure your pool in pool math, use the same login/pw as TFP and enable sharing the in gear menu (upper right).
3. Get 15 gallons of liquid chlorine. Walmart has Pool Essentials liquid chlorine.
4. Use pool math to determine how much Liquid to add 3ppm.
5. Add 3ppm of liquid chlorine per DAY until your kit arrives. nothing else.
6. When your kit arrives, post a full set of results. FC, CC, pH, TA, CH, CYA.
7. Then we SLAM. Link-->SLAM Process

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You know one thing I did not do last night was closed the chlorinator valve. Not sure how it effects the over night test but

Show us pictures of the remote and the antenna.

My guess is the antenna in the wireless receiver has deteriorated. They are replaceable. You need to open up the wireless receiver and see if the antenna is plugged into the PCB or soldered.

Make sure you check the other union as well. The one pictured looks like it's cracked on the outside as well.

I probably don't have to tell you this, but when you work on the suction side, remove the union on the top so you can move the pump out of the way to make the repairs.

Newdude said:

Yes it's like bleaching something with chlorine if it is going to bleach or melt the liner. It'll happen pretty quick if it’s going to happen and won't happen after the fact if it’s brushed and dissolved.

Cold water takes longer and so does poor circulation.

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Was out for the last half hour mixing the bottom up, better than it was but still some granules on the bottom. Water is also 69.8F so I know that ain’t helping lol. I have been unplugging the pump at night but I think I’m gonna keep it going for tonight.

Tom, @ogdento

Do the relay coils not get about 28 Volts DC??? If so, there must be a power supply chip in there somewhere???

But.. I agree the next step should be testing the three AC voltages from the Transformer..

Thanks,

Jim R.

Thanks so much! Had the same issue with a Max-E-Therm 400 and since the system was taken out of service mode around the same time as when I did the firmware upgrade, I didn't realize this was the cause of the heater not operating when out of service mode. Deleted the Max-E-Therm heater entry and created a new "Gas Heater" entry, went back and enabled it for the pool/spa, and the heat kicked right on.

NaCLTPool said:

FYI, It’s back up

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Can't log in either...

I require shelf’s to be excavated at a minimum depth of 21” when the customer wants approximately 8” of water.
To obtain this it will require, 9” of Shotcrete, 1” of plaster, 8” of water and 3” of exposed tile above the water line.
If you would like send me pics of the work being performed and I can give you my opinion of items of concern, Ray.

Yep. I had a new (to me) pool company out to replace some lightning-damaged lights today and aside from ripping them a new one over leaving my JVA misconfigured and causing the spa to drain and be left empty for hours along with leaving the panel cover open with rain in the forecast, I was ready to tell them they broke iAquaLink too.

PoolStored said:

Try TR pool, 72 ขนอม 13, Khanom District, Nakhon Si Thammarat 80210, Thailand +66 94 215 2595 It's close by...

Also if you get to Koh Samui, I know boat ride...there are several stores that show Calcium available. Might call them?

Calcium Chloride - poolshopsamui

Used for treating water absorbing moisture. Dissolves well in water

poolshopsamui.com

POOL MART SAMUI

Let us know what you figure out...

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I bought it online, $10.50 delivered. But again, I am confused about whether or not to add it. According to the test, I should. But I am getting a lot of sediment in my vacuum, the tiles underwater are rough, and when I swipe them a dust comes off of them. Is that tile/grout degradation from a lack of CaCl2 or sediment from too much of something else?

After the demolition of the shelf is completed, the existing shotcrete must have a rough surface area in order for the new shotcrete to adhere to and also be properly hydrated prior to application.
The new steel cage must be core drilled into the existing shell and epoxied (see pic) in place, on a side note, inspectors typically will want to see the spent epoxy tubes that were used.

NaCLTPool said:

FYI, It’s back up

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Still not working for me

FYI, It’s back up

Brian.O1484 said:

Brian.O1484 said:

With the CYA and staining is that somthing that’ll happen in a day if the granules stay on the bottom?

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Yes it's like bleaching something with chlorine if it is going to bleach or melt the liner. It'll happen pretty quick if its going to happen and won't happen after the fact if its brushed and dissolved.

Brian.O1484 said:

little surprised after a week it’s still dissolving,

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Cold water takes longer and so does poor circulation.

Brian.O1484 said:

The test kit is a little intimidating at first glance when I opened the box but isn’t bad once ya read a bit

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Yeah. Rocket science at a glance, but 'see spot run' once you read any step of the rocket science. Its literally laughable its so simple. Add 5 drops of XYZ. Um. Ok ?

Line up and uncap whatever supplies you need for a test, in order, on the left. Grab, do, and put down on the right. Cap and cleanup after you're done. Or right to left if youre lefty.

Brian.O1484 said:

Much appreciated as usual!!

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We got you.

NaCLTPool said:

Came here to see if anyone else has an issue as well. Had to use my PDA

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Unfortunately I don't have one. I should really learn how to use my pool in service mode... My pool was just installed with iaqualink. In the 4 years we've had it, this is first time I've had a problem like this, but obviously, if something like this becomes common, I'm going to have to figure out how to get a PDA...

I had a need for an eighth drip circuit, which I had to run behind the make-shift paver pad I installed for my pool junk boxes, way back when. This inspired me to pull up all the pavers and rebuild that pad, as it was never done well, and was never flat and level, and that caused the lids of the boxes to seat crookedly, which has always bugged me. I installed a frame; left, back and right; and then some sand and leveled it as best I could, then put the pavers back and cut some new ones to fill in some new gaps. It came out OK.



Note the two scraps in the middle. Normally I wouldn't do something like that, but the two scraps were leftovers from the other cuts, and didn't require even a shave. They just dropped right in. Considering I'll never see them again, it wasn't worth the effort and waste of cutting another whole paver just to get rid of that seam.

PRO TIP: This obviously isn't "patio quality" work, but when you need that, the trick is, before showing the end result to anyone, cover it with furniture! Ta, da:



All flat and level, and the lids now close perfectly! (I'll power-wash the whole pad in a few weeks.)

I panicked in the middle of the job, realizing that the new pad must be somehow smaller than the original, so I measured the boxes and was 4" short. Ugh, now what?! I really hate when stuff like that happens, but... I measured wrong! And as you can see, I couldn't have ended up with a better fit. I did the whole job with scraps of boards and pavers I had leftover from other jobs. Yes, I'm a pack-rat, but it often pays off. For those that might be worried, I am not legally a hoarder, because I have less than 20 magazines in my entire house, and they aren't in a stack!

So not only did I use up some old junk laying around, I used up nearly all of each piece of junk! This is what was leftover from the leftovers. Something comforting about that!



It was tough, but yes, I threw these scraps in the garbage. Gotta draw the line somewhere.

Tomorrow I'll run the rest of the new drip line...

You've got it figured out. Don't be afraid to step out of your comfort zone. That's the best way to learn. Measure twice, cut once. Make sure when cutting you account for the depth of the sockets. This link should help you. Ask questions if you need help.